Lipsticks Flashcards
Dr. Illomuanya
What is a lipstick?
It is a solid stick product housed in a molded packaging intended for application to the lips to improve their natural appearance, temporarily alter their colour, increase shine and smooth out the appearance of wrinkles and folds on the lips.
Answer True or False.
i. Lipsticks are made from hydrophobic materials
ii. The melting of the lipstick on application is by friction
iii. The lipstcik film sticks to the lips by hydrophobic interaction
iv. Silicones are used as pigment in lipsticks
v. Diluent oils help to evenly disperse colourants
i. True
ii. True
iii. True
iv. False. They are used to reflect light and provide shine
v. True
The main ingredients in a lipstick include a ____, ____ and ____.
solidifier, diluent oils and colourant.
List the types of ingredients used in a lipstick.
- Solid components/waxes
- Liquid components
- Softening components
- Colouring agents
- Pearlescent pigments
- Opacifying agents
- Perfumeries
- Preservatives
- Antioxidants
- Flavouring agents
What is the importance of waxes in lipsticks?
They are responsible for the final structure of the product by solidifying the liquid matrix.
They are required for attaining a reasonable body, hardness, melting point and shrinkage and easy release of the mould.
What are the types of waxes?
i. Hydrocarbon waxes e.g White beeswax
ii. Mineral waxes e.g., ozokerite, ceresine
iii. Hard waxes e.g carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hard paraffin
iv. Microcrystalline waxes
Provide an example of hydrocarbon wax. Discuss its uses, advantages and disadvantages.
White beeswax from honey combs of Apis mellifera [melting point 62-65 degree-celsius]
Concentration is 3-10%
Uses:
i. It forms an important base and is used for entrapping castor oil
ii. It has good plastic property and can be deformed when warmed
iii. It is a traditional stiffening agent for lipsticks
iv. It is used as a base in formulation of moulded products
Advantages:
i. Compatible with vegetable, mineral and animal waxes
ii. It is mouldable
Disadvantage
In concentrations >20%, it forms a dull film on the lip surface
Provide two examples of mineral wax. Discuss their uses, advantages and disadvantages.
Ozokerite wax
Obtained naturally from bituminous products [melting point 56-82 degree-celsius]
Concentration is 5-10%
Uses
1. Used to increase the melting point of the base
2. Promotes the formulation of a fine crystalline wax gel ensuring maximum retention of oil matrix.
3. It can be transformed into required shapes
Advantage
It is available in various grades
Disadvantages
It may be subjected to adulteration
Ceresine Wax
Also naturally obtained from bituminous products
[melting point 60-75 degree-celsius]
Uses
1. It is used as a stiffeneing agent
2. It is used to increase the melting point of the base
Provide the sources and melting points of the folllowing hard waxes.
i. candelilla wax
ii. carnauba wax
iii. hard paraffin
i. Euphorbiacea plants [melting point 65-75 degree-celsius]
ii. Exudates form leaves of Copermicia prunifera [melting point 81-90 degree-celsius]
iii. From petroleum [melting point 55-65 degree-celsius]
What are the disadvantages of carnauba wax and hard paraffin?
Carnauba wax - not miscible with other waxes and remains a separate solid phase due to its high mp
Hard paraffin - limited solubility in castor and may cause a greasy look
What are the melting point and use of microcrystalline wax?
mp:- 60-120 degree-celsius
They help in maintaining the crystal structure of the lipstick and may prevent sweating
What are the ideal properties of the liquid components/oils used in lipsticks?
i. It should possess good dissolution properties to dissolve all the bromo acids
ii. It should possess an optimum viscosity range
iii. It should be colourless, odourlesss and tasteless
iv. It should be non-toxic and non-irritating
v. It should be stable and compatible with the formulation
Mention 4 commonly used colouring agents
- Carmine
- Dye stuff stains e.g., eosin dye and acid eosin dye
- Pigmented stains
- Lakes e.g. aluminium lakes, barium lakes
List 6 commonly used liquid components.
- Mineral oils
- Vegeable oils e.g., sesame oil and olive oil
- Castor oil
- Butyl stearate
- Propylene glycol
- water
- silicone fluid
- Isopropyl maleate
Why are vegetable oils less commonly used?
Because they provide low solubility towards staining dyes.
Mention 5 softening agents.
- Lanolin
- Anhydrous lanolin
- Lanolin derivatives
- Cocoa butter
- Petrolatum
- Lecithin
The two types of colouring agents are:
i. soluble colours
ii. Insoluble colours
What are the properties of good colouring agents?
i. They should impart good opacity to the lips by imparting good colour
ii. They should be easil and uniformly miscible with the oils used
iii. They must be certified with the F, D and C grade
iv. They show have very low impurity content
Give two examples each of the following lipstick ingredients
i. pearlescent pigment
ii. opacifying agent
iii. perfumeries
i. guanine crystals, bismuth ooxychloride
ii. Titanium oxide
iii. rose oil, lavender oil
How do you characterise lipsticks?
i. Melting point- determined by capillary tube method
ii. Breaking point -hold lipstick horizontally in a socket half an inch from the edge of support. Gradually increase weight by a specific value at intervals of 30 secs
iii. Force of application: to measure how much force is required for application
iv. Surface anomalies
v. pH
vi. Skin irritation test
