Lesson 7 Flashcards

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1
Q

What is long shore drift?

A

The prevailing wind causes waves to approach the coast at an angle. The swash carries the sediment up the beach at the same angle (45º). The backwash, however carries the material back down the beach at right angles as this is the steepest gradient. This causes sediment to be moved along the coast in a zig-zag pattern

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2
Q

What is lateral shift?

A

The net effect of movement up and down the beach (long shore drift)

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3
Q

What are the 4 types of transport?

A

Suspension
solution
traction
salutation

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4
Q

What is suspension?

A

Sediment floating due to it being very fine

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5
Q

What is solution?

A

Dissolved sediment carried along

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6
Q

What is salutation?

A

Pebbles bounced off each other

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7
Q

What is traction?

A

Large rocks rolled along the sea bed

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8
Q

What are tides?

A

Changes in the water level caused by gravitational pull of the moon.

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9
Q

What tides do we have in the UK?

A

2 high and 2 low

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10
Q

What is tidal range?

A

the difference between high and low tides

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11
Q

What is a high tidal range?

A

Strong tidal currents as the tides rise and fall.

Strongest near estuaries

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12
Q

What are sediment cells?

A

Sediment moves along the coast in these.

They act as a system.

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13
Q

What do sediment cells do?

A

In each cell sediment moves between beach, cliffs and sea through erosion, transportation and deposition.
Each cell operates between physical barriers that prevent sediment from moving further along the coast.

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14
Q

How many sediment cells does England and Wales have?

A

11

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15
Q

What happens if a sediment budget fails?

A

waves continue to transport sediment (positive feedback)

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16
Q

What happens if a sediment budget increases?

A

Sea deposits material as it can’t carry it (negative feedback)

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17
Q

What is the process of sediment cells called?

A

Dynamic equilibrium (state of balance between continuing processes)

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18
Q

What is a spit?

A

A stretch of sand or shingle extending from the mainland out to sea.

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19
Q

How is a spit formed? (7)

A

Develop when a sudden change in the shape of the coastline.
Sediment transported by longshore drift.
Longshore drift continues to transport material in the same direction rather than following the coastline.
Material transported out to sea.
Wind changes direction, waves alter direction.
Deposition inland.
The flow of water into the sea at an estuary is stronger than the drift, forcing the sediment to be deposited.

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20
Q

What is a recurved spit?

A

A spit which has changes as a result of wave refraction making the end of a spit curve it into a “hook”

21
Q

What develops behind a spit?

A

A salt marsh

22
Q

An example of a spit?

A

Spurn Head in Yorkshire

23
Q

What is a beach?

A

Accumulation of material deposited between high and low tidal limits, which shelves downwards towards the sea.

24
Q

Where is coastal material deposited?

A

Backshore and foreshore

25
Q

What is the backshore?

A

a cliff or is marked by a line of sand dunes

26
Q

What is a HWM (high water mark)?

A

An area of coarse material pushed up the beach by spring tides

27
Q

What is found at a HWM (high water mark)?

A

shingle/storm ridge

28
Q

What are berms?

A

build ups of finer material that mark the successive high tides

29
Q

What are cusps?

A

Semi-circular depressions; they are smaller and more temporary features formed by a collection of waves reaching the same point

30
Q

What is the spacing of cusps related to?

A

Wave height and swash strength

31
Q

When is the foreshore exposed?

A

At a low tide

32
Q

What happens at the offshore?

A

the first material is deposited

33
Q

What is a swash aligned beach? (3)

A

Waves break parallel with coast
Material moved up beach
Smoothly curved

34
Q

What is a drift aligned beach? (2)

A

Waves break at an angle to the coast

Material transported by longshore drift.

35
Q

Example of a swash aligned beach?

A

Lulworth Cove in Dorset

36
Q

What is a offshore bar?

A

a ridge of deposited material lying parallel to the coast

37
Q

How is a offshore bar formed?

A

Friction causes waves to break at some distance from the coast
Sediment builds up
A lagoon may form as water may be cut off from the open sea

38
Q

What are the 2 types of offshore bars?

A

shingle or sand

39
Q

Case study for a shingle bar?

A

Low Bar in Cornwall

40
Q

What is the case study for the sand bar?

A

Nebrung of the Baltic coast.

41
Q

What is a bar?

A

ridge of material that is connected at both ends to the mainland.

42
Q

How does a bar form?

A

A spit continues to grow lengthwise, it may link two headlands to form a bay bar.

43
Q

What is a barrier island?

A

An island made up of long stretches of sand which are parallel to the shore

44
Q

How do barrier islands form?

A

Form in 3 ways, from spits, a sand bar or by drowned dune ridges

45
Q

What are tombolos?

A

A bar of sand or shingle joining an island to the mainland.

46
Q

How are tombolos formed?

A

Formed when a spit connects the mainland coast to an island.

47
Q

What is a cuspate foreland?

A

Shingle ridges deposited in a triangular shape, and are the result of two separate spits joining, or the combined effects of two distinct sets of regular storm waves.

48
Q

What are sand dunes?

A

land forms formed by sand deposits blown off the beach

49
Q

What are salt marshes?

A

Areas of sediment that accumulate around estuaries or lagoons which develop in sheltered areas.