Lesson 6 - Waves Flashcards
What is wavelength?
Horizontal distance between wave crests
What is the period of a wave?
Time interval between successive crests passing a point
Example of wave generating force
Wind stress
Example of restoring force
Gravity
Energy of waves depends on: (4)
Wind speed, wind duration, fetch, original state
Orbits of deep water waves
Circular, forwards beneath crest, backwards between troughs
What happens when depth >= wavelengh/2 in deep water waves?
Negligible motion of orbits
Orbits of shallow water waves
Elliptical orbits as they are affected by sea floor in a to and fro motion.
What is dispersion?
Where longest waves travel quickest - swell
What is shoaling?
Where waves hit shallow water and get slower and steeper
What does Refraction cause?
Waves to become parallel to the shore, focusing towards headlands and bays
Process by which waves break on flat beaches
Spilling
Process by which waves break on steep beaches?
Plunging
Process by which waves break on very steep beaches?
Surging
