Lecture 9 - The rise of antibranding Flashcards
JOHN WILLIAM GODWARD, 1990
Rise of idleness seen as an extreme form of leisure, consuming with no consequence
VEBLEN
Observed the rise of idiosyncratic consumption, that contributed little to society eg: dog shows, horse racing.
Hypothesis:
Status is measured by one’s distance or exemption from mundane, productive labour. Th manner of consuming time (leisure, idleness) and goods must demonstrate this distance.
What is conspicuous consumption?
“The purchase and consumption of expensive goods and services to wastefully display wealth rather than attempt to satisfy more utilitarian needs of the consumer, for the sole objective of gaining or maintaining higher social status”
ECKHARDT, 2015: 807
Why do luxury brands enter the market?
To provide identity value
What are the 3 phases of consumer culture that give implications for luxury branding?
1) Traditional conspicuous consumption
2) Democratisation of luxury (for the masses)
3) Inconspicuous consumption
What is traditional conspicuous consumption?
People consume for the purposes of signifying social status to other people
BOURDIEU, 1984; HOLT, 2002; ECKHARDT, 2015
Occurs in times of greater social mobility and economic growth
GER AND BELK, 1996
eg: China 5-10 years ago
What implications does traditional conspicuous consumption habits have on luxury branding?
BIG LOGOS (especially for those experiencing high growth eg China)
BRANDS EMBELLISH HERITAGE (in name or history - authentic branding)
ASSOCIATE BRAND WITH HIGH CULTURE
(Sponsor events)
TRICKLE DOWN EFFECT
(Keep price high and distribution select)
eg: Burberry check not patented saw rise of the pattern in chav culture
What is democratisation of luxury (for the masses)?
Bloated middle class has provided people with disposable income and gives luxury brands opportunity to cash in (DANZINGER, 2005)
Big market to target that cannot be ignored
eg: Ralph Lauren
What are the implications of democratisation of luxury for the masses on luxury branding?
Produce affordable luxury products, distinct from core
eg: BMW 1 series, Dior sunglasses, Calvin Klein underwear
In the wrong hands, brands lose symbolism
- Luxury loses its lustre (THOMAS, 2007)
What is inconspicuous consumption?
ECKHARDT, 2015: 808
“The use of subtly marked products which are misrecognised by most observers, but facilitate interaction with those who have requisite cultural capital to decode the subtle signals”
Luxury brands have lost exclusivity, luxury brands and social position has become decoupled; conspicuous brands, visible logos are no longer markets of social class HUDDERS AND PANDELAINE, 2013
What are the implications of inconspicuous consumption on luxury branding?
RISE OF INCONSPICUOUS BRANDS
- Brand signals not readily apparent or visible to most consumers
eg: Tesla cars, high end, sleek and subtle fashion
Why is inconspicuous consumption on the rise?
Those at the top of the socioeconomic pyramid seek to avoid gauche luxury consumption (HAN, 2010)
- Studies found the poor (Brazilian maid) are more likely to have luxuries (designer handbag) than their employer (PINHEIRO AND MACHADO, 2010)
How are inconspicuous brands created?
1) CONTROL DISTRIBUTION
2) RELY ON TACIT KNOWLEDGE
3) APPEAR ARTISANAL (authentic branding)
4) ANTI-ADVERTISING, ANTI-PROMOTION
5) SUBTLY, INPUT ELEMENTS OF THE MARKETING MIX
Name an example of a company controlling distribution
Maison Ullens
- Subtle retail space
- Products are only available in 3 capital cities
- Only retailer of their products
Name and describe an example of a company relying on tacit knowledge for consumers to buy their products.
Working on the assumption that given price, consumers understand the quality.
- Restrain stories, quality speaks for itself.
BOTTEGA VENETA
- Woven intrecattio bag, hard to make. Resists saying how it is made, assumed by those willing to pay £2,500.
