Lecture 8: Coastal Hazards Flashcards
Passive Margins
Coastline is distant from plate boundary
- wide continental shelves, sandy beaches
- barrier islands ie: East coast of North America, Arctic
Active Margins
Coastline is relatively close to plate boundary
-rocky shoreline and sea cliffs ie: BC
Waves
- made by wind blowing over water
- size depends on !) velocity of wind 2) duration of wind, 3)fetch, which is the distance wind blows over water
Wave height
-trough to crest distance
Wave Length
Distance between successive crests
Wave Period
Time that successive crests pass reference point
Wave Motion
Circular motion that moves downward from surface, diameter decreasing with distance as energy is decreasing
-shallow water becomes more eliiptical as it feels the bottom
Swells
- Waves generated by storms far out to sea
- can be predicted based on velocity, fetch, distance of waves
- approaching land, waves decrease in speed and wave length, and increase in height
Plunging Breakers
form on steep beaches; very erosive
Spilling Breakers
develop on wide, gentle beaches, less erosive
Tidal Bores
Waves that form when in flowing todal water is slowed by outflowing river water
Sea CLiff/ Sea Bluff
Erosional landform that marks landward boundary of beach
Berm
Onshore portion of beach that is flat, formed by sediment deposition
Beach Face
Onshore portion of beach that slopes seaward, lies within swash zone
Swash Zone
Where waves repeatedly rush up and back
Surf Zone
Area where waves move towards shore once they break
Breaker Zone
area where incoming waves peak and break
Longshore Bar
Ridge on seafloor in breaker zone
Longshore Trough
Depression on seafloor by wave action, landward of longshore bar
Beach Drift
sand moves in zig zag pattern in swash zone
Longshore drift
transport sediment by currents that flow parallel to shoreline