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Skin Care Ingredients & Formulations > Lecture 4 - Moisturizers and Moisturization > Flashcards

Lecture 4 - Moisturizers and Moisturization Flashcards

1
Q

characteristics of normal skin vs. dry skin

A 
Normal
-Even texture and tone
-Smooth surface
-Supple plump feel
-Free of irritation
Dry
-Rough & scaly surface
-Flaky , large squames
-Tight  feel
-Inflamed , red , blotchy, itchy
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2
Q

external factors of dry skin

A
  • Low relative humidity in dry environments- winter , airplane
  • Wind and air currents causing evaporation
  • Soap & detergent stripping skin lipids
  • Solvents – alcohol , acetone strip lipids
  • Inflammation caused by UVR (ultraviolet radiation)
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3
Q

intrinsic factors of dry skin

A
  • Impaired SC function
  • Reduced sebum production
    (eg. in aging skin)
  • Dietary deficiency of EFA (essential fatty acids- PUFA –polyunsaturated FA)
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4
Q

What 3 things happen with impaired SC function?

A
  • Increased TEWL (trans epidermal water loss)
  • Abnormal keratinization and desquammation
  • Reduced levels of NMF (natural moisturizing factor)
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5
Q

top 5 causes of dry, dehydrated skin (according to alpha keri)

A
  1. Aging
  2. Over-cleansing (excessive bathing, scrubbing, use of soap)
  3. Extreme climatic conditions
  4. Prolonged sun exposure
  5. Lifestyle (poor diet, nutritional deficiencies, certain medical conditions and medications)
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6
Q

parameters to formulate effective moisturizers

A
  • Key ingredients: emollients, occlusive agents, humectants
  • Vehicle type: o/w, w/o emulsions, lamellar gel systems
  • Ingredients are selected accordingly, depending on the vehicle type and the application target (face or body)
  • Cosmetic forms: lotions, creams, oils, milks, serums, sprays, gels
  • Targeted type of skin: normal, dry, sensitive, oily
  • Marketing regimen: facial, hands and body
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7
Q

define emollients

A

provide partial occlusion that soothes, moisturizes and improves the appearance of the SC by masking the rough, scaly skin condition and reducing the sensation of itching

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8
Q

define occlusive agents

A

form a film on the surface of the skin and moisturize by retarding the evaporation of water (TEWL) from the skin surface

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9
Q

define humectants

A

bind water from the environment and help by retaining water in equilibrium within the skin

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10
Q

define enhancers of skin barrier

A

mimic the SC bilayers structure and assure long-lasting moisturization

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11
Q

What are emollients vs. moisturizers

A 
Emollients
-Lubrication
-Skin “smoothing” & softening
-Effect skin feel
Moisturizers
-Water retention
-Humectancy
-Barrier activity-Reduce water loss
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12
Q

Characteristics of emollients - physical forms (4 types)

A
  • varying viscosity liquids
  • soft solids - butters
  • waxes
  • cationic fatty compounds
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13
Q

5 categories of ingredients in emollients

A 
Silicones
Triglycerides
Esters
Hydrocarbons
Ethers
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14
Q

9 criteria of selecting emollient esters and occlusive ingredients

A
  • Chemical structure
  • Polarity( Solubility Parameter)
  • Spreading behavior
  • Molecular weight
  • Viscosity
  • Hydrolytic stability
  • Solubilizing behavior towards oil-soluble solids
  • Permeability into skin
  • Moisture retention
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15
Q

type of spreading with high mw esters vs low mw esters

A

— High MW esters deliver low spreading

— Low MW esters deliver high spreading

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16
Q

type of spreading with high visc vs low visc

A
  • low visc = high spreading

- high visc = low spreading

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17
Q

Spreading values provide information about the_____ of an emollient

A

fatty character (alkyl chain portion)

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18
Q

types of hydrocarbon emollients

A 
Mineral Oil-most popular
PAOs
Polyisobutenes
Isoparaffins
Petrolatum
Paraffin, ozokerite & microcrystalline waxes
Squalane – natural derived
19
Q

Pros/cons of mineral oil

A

Pluses
- Most ubiquitous emollient-most common viscosity is 70 vis.
- More than a century of common use-internally & externally
- Inexpensive
Minuses
- Anti-mineral Oil attitudes - “clogs pores”, “de-fats the skin”, dermatologists
- No “Oil Free” Claims

20
Q

define fixed oils

A

liquid triglycerides – fatty acid storage in oil seeds

21
Q

define butters & fats

A

semi-solid triglycerides – usually melting above or near ambient temperature

22
Q

define waxes

A

distinctly solid lipids primarily fatty acid esters (& also used to describe hydrogenated oils that have elevated melting points)

23
Q

lanolin (unique emollient/emulsifier)

A
  • Classified as a wax – composed of alcohol & sterol esters – “wool wax”
  • Absorbs and retains high levels of water
  • Self emulsifying W/O base – standardized by water absorption method
  • Issues with animal origin and potential residual pesticides
24
Q

4 other naturally derived emollients

A

CCT ( Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride)
Squalane
Jojoba Wax & hydrogenation
Myristyl Myristate

25
how is an ester formed
from reaction between an fatty acid and a fatty alcohol Undergo hydrolysis at extreme pH's (high or low) and elevated temperature
26
define spreading coefficient (S) of a liquid
determines how well that liquid will wet the surface (skin) when is applied
27
Spreading characteristic of an ester is dependent on its (what 3 things)
— chemical structure — molecular weight (MW) — viscosity
28
Chemical structure of an ester dictates the initial feel - how?
— Linear or unbranched esters tend to enhance slip or lubricity and can be heavy — Branched chain esters tend to have a dry initial feel and spread easily
29
define spreading value
Surface area (mm2) covered in a specific time by the emollient (in vivo – human skin forearm, in vitro – VitroSkin etc.)
30
name very high spreading esters with a light, dry after - feel
``` — Diiso.propyl Adipate — Di-butyl Adipate — Hexyl Laurate — Isopropyl Myristate — Isopropyl Palmitate — Isopropyl Isostearate ```
31
name high spreading esters with an elegant/velvety after feel
— Tridecyl Neopentanoate — Isostearyl Neopentanoate — Isodecyl Neopentanoate
32
name medium spreading esters with medium after feel
— Isocetyl Stearate | — Cetearyl Isononanoate
33
silicones (general)
Silicone is a generic name for many classes of organo-silicone polymers with repeating siloxane (Si-0) units Have a wide range of MW
34
silicone structure can be...
Cyclic, linear and cross-linked | Volatile or non-volatile
35
Silicone fluids are used because
- Are very resistant to high temperatures - Very resistant to oxidation - Are easily spreadable forming "breathable" films - Good detackifiers reducing tackiness
36
types of hydrophilic emollients
Water soluble polymers & waxes- i.e.PEGs Silicone copolyols PEG esters Ethoxylated alcohols & naturals (lanolin)
37
characteristics of humectants
- Attract and retain water- Hygroscopic - Hydrogen bonding groups – Hydroxyl groups - Act as freeze point depressants - Act as skin moisturizers depending on RH - Maintain an equilibrium with water vapor in air
38
characteristics of glycerol
``` - The most common used humectant in personal care — Used between 2-25% in moisturizers to treat dry skin - Heavy and tacky feel — Excellent skin tolerability ; — Low cost — Help wound healing in skin — Desquamation — Skin barrier recovery - Anti-irritant ```
39
characteristics of Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid
Sodium PCA- “Natural Moisturizing factor”NMF Found in the skin Extremely Hygroscopic Extremely safe, even at high conc. Very stable to broad range of pH and temp
40
characteristics of hyaluronic acid
Glycosaminoglycan The most efficient “moisturizer” Ubiquitous to humans- connective tissue, vitreous fluid of eyes,dermis Most commonly used material made from bacterial fermentation Medical grades also from Rooster combs Film former/ retains water
41
types of Moisturization Efficacy Testing
Trained graders: dry flaky skin D-Squame tape grading- SC flakes Conductivity & Impedance meters (NOVA Meter, Skicon Corneometer ) TEWL (Trans Epidermal Water Loss) Macrophotography- grading before & after Skin replicas- image analysis
42
types of Bioengineering Instrumentation
Moisture testing – direct and indirect –TEWL Skin Friction – hydrated skin > dry skin Skin Elasticity Resiliency- Cutometer, Twistometer, Ballistometer Skin pH • Skin surface temperature IR scan Sebumeter- surface oil by light diffraction Skin tone – Chromameter ( L,a,b values) Laser Doppler blood flow- erythema, vasodilation Skin Topography- Profilometry-wrinkle number, length, depth (“reduces fine lines”) Image Analysis – direct/ indirect replicas Microscopy: Light, Con-focal, SEM
43
moisturizers treat dry skin rehydrate and restore the skin barrier by using...
— Occlusive agents which seal skin to prevent water loss — Emollients provide semi-occlusive films; also act as plasticizers and feel modifiers — Humectants attract and hold water (similar to NMF) — Enhancers of skin barrier to replenish damaged lipids and reinforce the skin's natural lipid barrier function

Skin Care Ingredients & Formulations (7 decks)

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