Lecture 1 - Intro: The Skin, Skin Care Products, and Raw Materials Flashcards
What is purpose of skin and hair?
Protection, keep in water
Skin is the largest organ. What are the basic stats?
Approx 8 pounds and 22 square feet
Define the epiderms
- biweekly renewal by maturation and exfoliation
- fed from the dermis and subcutaneous circulation
Define the dermis
actively metabolizing tissue retains structure (contains elastic fibers)
Define hair follicle
- origin of hair fibers
- epidermal tissue seated in dermis
function of epidermal cells
continually replicating and maturing into the cornified protective stratum corneum layer
function of dermal fibroblast cells
responsible for production and homeostasis of the underlying structural layer of skin by synthesis and excretion of fibrillar proteins- collagens and elastin and mucopolysaccharides (hyaluronic acid, dermatin)
function of melanocytes
production and transport of melanin granules inter- and intracellularly
function of langerhans cells
dendritic immunologic actors
function of hair follicle
produces complex hair structure in an orderly cycle from epidermal cells
function of sebaceous gland
holocrine excretory gland producing sebum for hair and skin lubrication exiting into hair shaft
function of eccrine sweat glands
secretory bodies that act to control internal temperature by secreting water while maintaining electrolyte balance
function of apocrine sweat glands
- associated with hair follicles secretes milky fluid- proteins and lipids
- may have pheromonal function, impacts body odor
function of nerve receptors
tactile, temperature, pressure stimulus response
function of Merkel’s Disk
touch, pressure (static)
Function of Meissner’s corpuscle
touch, pressure (dynamic)
Function of Ruffini ending
stretching of skin, pressure sensor
Function of Pacinian corpuscle
Deep pressure, vibration (dynamic)
function of Krause end bulb
Thermoreceptor
Free nerve endings
not differentiated, more simple receptors for pain/heat/cold
Why does tan only last a few weeks and tattoo lasts a lifetime?
Tan is increased production of melanosomes and only affects the epidermis.
Tattoo pigment penetrates the dermis
What is the difference between thin and thick skin?
Thick skin is hairless and found on palms and soles
Thin skin is hairy and is where skin care products normally applied
What are the 4 types of activity in skin pharmacology?
antioxidants
anti-inflammatory
enzyme modulation
immune enhancement
What are the 3 skin active targets for skin physiology
Processing of xenobiotics
immunological responses
UV radiation responses
What are the 3 routes of skin penetration
direct transdermal (up to 99.9%)
transfollicular (0.1 - > 50%)
via eccrine gland
What is the stratum corneum brick and mortar model
stacked coreneocytes with lipidic pathways
What happens as cells move up the epidermis?
- cells proliferate and differentiate (mitotic division and cells flatten toward surface)
- dead, keratinized cells end up at surface - “keratinized stratified squamous”
What are 7 skin penetration issues?
- Active ingredients must pass through stratum corneum
- Solubility parameter of SC ~ 8.
- Penetration depends on polarity of active and charge
- Penetration depends on hydration of SC for more hydrophilic materials
- Penetration depends on actives (m.w.
What are the 6 skin care bases?
Emulsions (liquid/liquid dispersion) Gels (polymer/thickener dispersion) Solutions (water, alcohol, oil, silicone) Suspensions (solid particle in liquid) Sticks/solids Powders
What are the skin care OTC categories?
Sunscreen Anti-acne Skin Protectants Skin Bleaching External Analgesics Dandruff/Seborrhea/Psoriasis Anti-perspirants Hair-growth
define emulsion
A system of two (or more) immiscible materials (usually liquids) in which one material (the dispersed/internal phase) is suspended/dispersed throughout the other material (the continuous/external phase) in separate droplets
define oil in water emulsion (O/W)
the dispersed phase of the emulsion is oil
define water in oil emulsion (W/O)
the dispersed phase of the emulsion is water
define emulsifier
A surface active agent (surfactant) which reduces the interfacial tension between the dispersed (internal) phase and the continuous (external) phase
define emulsion interface
boundary between 2 phases
What does INCI stand for
International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient