landforms of coastal deposition Flashcards
Where are beaches found?
Beaches are found at the point where the land meets the sea and represent the accumulation of sediment deposited between low spring tides and the highest point reached by storm waves
What are beaches made from?
they are mainly composed of sand and shingle.
Why does sand create beaches with a gentle gradient?
Because of its small particle size which means the sand becomes compact when wet and allows very little percolation. Most of the swash returns as backwash, little energy is lost to friction and material is carried down the beach
Why does shingle create beaches with a steep gradient?
Because water rapidly percolates through shingle, so the backwash is limited int he material it can transport down the beach
What is a spit?
A spit is an elongated, narrow ridge of land that has one end joined to the mainland and projects out to the sea or across an estuary, usually on a drift aligned coast
What is a spit made from?
It is composed of sand and/or shingle and the mixture is dependent upon the availability of material and the wave energy required to move it
How is a spit formed?
1) when longshore drift causes the beach to
extend out to sea, usually due to a change in direction of the coastline .
2) This sediment projection can create a salt marsh due to the sheltered, saline environment where water flow speed is lower, allowing deposition of finer sediments to occur.
3) A change in wind direction or wave direction can
cause the end of the spit to curve (known as a recurved end). Over time, the spit may be left with
multiple recurved tips, which is known as a compound spit.
4) In some areas a double spit may
occur where the spits from opposite sides of a bay reach out towards each other, though are
unlikely to touch unless there are no changes to environmental conditions. This could lead to a
barrier beach being formed.
What is a barrier beach?
an elongated bank of deposited sand or shingle lying parallel to the coastline and not submerged by incoming tides
How is a barrier beach formed?
A barrier beach occurs when a beach or spit extends across a bay to join two headlands . This
traps water behind it leading to the formation of a brackish lagoon which is separated from the sea.
Some barrier beaches may have formed due to
rising sea levels after the last glacial period , when meltwater from glaciers deposited sediment
in the coastal zone. If a barrier beach becomes separated from the mainland, it becomes a
barrier island
Where do you find a barrier beach?
They are common in areas with low tidal ranges and can be very large
What is a tombolo?
A tombolo is a bar or beach that connects the mainland to an offshore island
How is a tombolo formed?
A tombolo is formed due to wave refraction off the coastal island reducing wave velocity , leading to deposition of sediments. They may be covered at high tide if they are low lying
Where do you find a tombolo?
They are common in areas with low tidal ranges
What is an offshore bar?
An offshore region where sand is deposited
How is an offshore bar formed?
They can be formed when the wave breaks early, instantly depositing its
sediment as a loose-sediment offshore bar. Waves may pick up sediment from an offshore bar,
which then provides an important sediment input into the coastal zone . They may also be
formed as a result of backwash from destructive waves removing sediment from a beac h.
Offshore bars may absorb wave energy, reducing erosion in some areas.