(LAB) Lip Products Flashcards
Very sensitive to touch, lips are very sensitive
to chemical, physical, and microbial damages
Lips
A colored cosmetic product designed to
enhance the appearance of the lips.
Lip Makeup Product
(Cosmetic/Therapeutic) Enhances attractiveness and accentuates the lips by imparting color and
vibrancy to the lips.
Cosmetic
(Cosmetic/Therapeutic) Becomes of therapeutic purpose if it has UV protection or claims to have a moisturizing effect to prevent chapping or
dryness of lips.
Therapeutic
(Type of Lip product) Designed to enhance the appearance of the lips imparting color and gloss
Lipstick
(Type of Lip product) Designed to give the lips a glossy luster and, sometimes, subtle color
Lip gloss
(T/F) Lip glosses consist of a higher ratio of oils and lower ratio of waxes
True
(Type of Lip product) Designed to redefine the outline of the lips.
Lip liner
(T/F) Lip liners are thick pencils attached to a fine brush through which the product is dispensed.
False. THIN pencils
(Type of Lip product) Designed to temporarily prevent dryness of the lips and help relieve chapping -> OTC drug
Lip balm
(T/F) Lip balm is a lip protectant.
True
Types of Lipstick
Matte, Glossy/Glaze, Creme, Shimmer, Long-wearing, Lip plumping
Lipstick rich in pigments and waxes but lighter in emollients
Matte
Lipstick heavy in oil and contains flavor and scents
Glossy/Glaze
Lipstick that contains high concentration of emollients; contain pigments with a smaller particle size
Creme
Frosted lipstick
Shimmer
Lipstick that contains light-reflecting particles
Shimmer
Lipstick with two part system that contains colored base formula and colorless cover
Long-wearing
Lipstick designed to make lips appear fuller by slightly irritating the delicate skin on the lips to make them swell.
Lip plumping
Lip plumping ingredients
Ginger, cinnamon, cayenne, camphor,
menthol
Lipstick formulation
Wax, Oils, Fats and Butters, Coloring agents, Preservatives, Fragrance, Antioxidants, Flavoring agents, Texturizing agents
Other ingredients
Fixatives, Active ingredients
(T/F) Lip glosses tend to dry the lips.
False. Lip products that dry the lips are mainly LONG-WEARING lipsticks.
Ingredient that seal the color to the lips and make the lipstick “kiss-resistant.”
Silicones
(T/F) Lip cancer occur in men more frequently than in women.
True
(T/F) Lip balms and lipsticks in viral infections should not be shared as they can transmit the virus as long as the blister fluid remains moist.
True
(T/F) Technical quality of makeup: Stability should be long-term, from 3 to 5 years.
True
May be of vegetable, animal, or synthetic origin.
Waxes
Wax examples
- Carnauba wax
- Candelilla wax
- Ozokerite
- Paraffin wax
- Beeswax
Structuring agent that give lipstick’s rigidity and solidity, and stability
Waxes
About 15% of the total formulation
Waxes
(T/F) Waxes are solid at room temperature and must be melted for use.
True
Also contributes to the lipstick’s matte appearance.
Waxes
(T/F) Wax is different from waxy paste.
True
(T/F) Oils acts as emollient thus providing a moisturizing effect.
True
Prevents drying and chapping of lips and is used to disperse pigments and pearls.
Oils
(T/F) Oils are about 30% of the formulation
True
Oils examples
- Plant oil – castor oil, grape-seed oil, almond oil, coconut oil
- Butters – shea butter, avocado butter
- Fatty acid ester – isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate
Improve adhesiveness of the formulation to the lips
Fats and Butters
(T/F) Fats and butter: Low molecular weight silicones -> transfer-resistant lipsticks
True
Fats and butter examples
- Hydrocarbons – polyisobutene, mineral oil, petrolatum, isododecane, isoeicosane.
- Silicones – Dimethicone, cyclomethicone
About 20% of the formulation
Coloring agents
(T/F) Dyes are readily water soluble, whereas pigments are insoluble
True
Types of colors
- Organic
- Inorganic
- Lakes
- Effect pigments
- Organic colors
* Red 6, 7, and 21; Yellow 6; Orange 5 - Inorganic pigments
* Iron oxides (red, yellow, brown, black), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide - Lakes
* Red 7 lake, Yellow 5 Lake - Effect pigments
* Mica + iron oxide + titanium dioxide; bismuth oxychloride
yes tama
Coloring agent which provides a pearlescent effect
bismuth oxychloride
Coloring agent which can provide a sparkly or glittery effect, a soft luster, or a pearlescent effect depending on the coating
Micas coated with iron oxides and titanium dioxide
Protection against microbiological contamination.
Preservatives
Preservatives example
parabens and phenoxyethanol
About 1% of the formulation
Preservatives, Fragrances, Antioxidants
To mask the fatty or waxy odor due to the wax and oils/butter ingredients.
Fragrances
Usually used as an oil-based concentrate to be miscible with other oils in the formulation.
Fragrances
Prevents rancidity and oxidation.
Antioxidant
Antioxidant examples
Vitamin E, ascorbic acid, BHT and BHA
Must be FDA-approved; Taste can be adjusted by adding saccharin
Flavoring agent
Example of flavoring agent
Lip plumping products containing cinnamon or menthol.
Can provide moisture, brightness, and subtlety depending on the material.
Texturizing ingredients
10% of formulation
Texturizing ingredients
Texturizing ingredients examples
Talc, silica, mica
* Silica bead – provides subtlety
* Titanium dioxide – provides a soft-focus effect
* Bismuth oxychloride – gives a satin, shimmering effect
(Texturizing) Provides a soft-focus effect
Titanium dioxide
(Texturizing ingredient) Gives a satin, shimmering effect
Bismuth oxychloride
(Texturizing ingredient) Provide subtlety
Silica bead
Help seal the lipstick to the lips thus preventing it from “bleeding”
Fixatives
Silicone resins are example of
Fixatives
(T/F) Active ingredients should be listed in the OTC monographs
True
Example of active ingredient
UV filters like sunscreens, beta-carotene,
Vitamin A, and Vitamin C.
Most frequently applied technique to
produce lipsticks and lip balms
Molding
Steps of Molding
1 Pigment premilling
2 Melting and mixing
3 Molding and packaging
4 Flaming
Agglomerates in the powder are broken up
Pigment premilling
Waxes are heated and melted
Melting and Waxing
Melted lipstick mix is poured into plastic or
metal molds
Molding
Lipsticks are passed through flame
Flaming
Quality related problems
Aeration
Laddering
Chipping or Cracking
Deformation
Cratering
Streaking
Sweating
Mushy Failure
Seams
Also known as Pinholing
Aeration
Formation of tiny holes on the surface of
the stick
Aeration
Cause of Aeration
Melted ingredients are mixed quickly and immediately molded
Multilayered, ladder-like appearance
Laddering
Causes of Laddering
- Mold being kept at a very low-temperature
- Lipstick mix is not hot enough
- Filling rate is too slow
Occurs when the lipstick mix is too brittle.
Chipping/Cracking
Causes of chipping or cracking
- Imbalanced wax/oil ration
- Faulty cooling technique
Abnormal lipstick shape
Deformation
(T/F) Deformation is more noticeable in softer formulas.
True
Causes of deformation
- Imbalanced wax/oil ratio
- Adverse temperature gradient
Presence of dimples (spots) on the stick’s
surface formed during flaming
Cratering
Causes of cratering
Presence of trace amounts of oils
either in the formula or in the formulation
process.
Appearance of discontinuities and streaks
Streaking
Causes of streaking
- Particle size
- Wettability
Appearance of oil droplets on the stick’s
surface
Sweating
Causes of sweating
- Incompatibility between individual ingredients
- Imbalanced composition
Central core of the stick lacks structure
and breaks
Mushy failure
Causes of mushy failure
- Speed-related
- Temperature of molding
Also known as Vertical marks
Seams
Occurs when split molds are used
Seams
Lipstick packaging
Lipstick cases/tubes
Efficacy Parameter
Moisturizing effect: Hydration state measurement
Most frequently tested efficacy parameter
Moisturizing effect
Safety parameter
Lead content (heavy metal): Lead Content Determination -> Batch Certification
Maximum specified level of lead content
20 PPM
Quality Parameters
- Break strength
- Color matching
- Color brightness and streakiness
- Melting point determination
Induced by a hemispherical edged
blade, which simulates the bending action.
Break strength
Dispersed pigments and the finished product are compared to a previously approved standard color.
Color Matching