Jacket Construction Flashcards
What canvas does not have horse hair in it ?
The collar
Reason: the collar has no need to bounce back into place just needs to lay naturally
Tell me about the shoulder pads ?
They create a soft and structured look. They are attached at the chest piece canvas. They are made of soft Cotten felt. Different pads for different models
What is a floating chest piece
The chest piece is not fixated to the fabric but is just anchored along the jacket seams
Where is the half canvas found and what are it’s components ?
It’s located on the upper half of the jacket (covering the chest).
Two different types of horse hair that have two different bounce directions ( they lay on the collar bone) with cotton and felt padding for support
Benefits of the Full Canvas construction?
Shape itself better to the body
Its held together by blind stitching
Very resilient
No effected as much from temperature and weathering
What two suits have the horn buttons and why ?
The La Spalla and Jort
Reason: these are the subtle nuances that define the character of the model
Talk about the Bemberg lining.
Bemberg is a special brand within fabrics
- Aka cupro it is the most expensive of all man-made clothing fibers.
- Made from Cotten cellulose that in a chemical process dissolves and are then regenerated into new fibers.
- fibers are spun using a stretch technique and the result is thin, durable, super soft, breathable and moist absorbent
- almost all SS suits are lined with Bemberg.
What gives the Canvas resilience and allows it to bounce back
The Horse Hair