Italian for table wine, was the official eu category denoting the lowest of the vinous low until 2009 when it was replaced with vino. It also played a key role in the transformation of Italian wines in the late 20th century. Historically the great majority of each Italian wine harvest qualified as basic Vino da Tavola, but the designation was for a period worn as a badge of honour by some of the finest, and most expensive, wines produced in Italy but that did not conform to the doc laws of the time. These new vini da tavola were born in 1974 with the commercial debut of tignanello and sassicaia, both marketed by the Florentine house of antinori. Although the wines were produced in different geographical zones (chianti classico and bolgheri respectively) and from different grape varieties (a predominance of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon respectively), they shared four significant characteristics that were to mark the evolution of this category of wines. They both represented an attempt to give more body, intensity, and longevity to Tuscan red wines, which had become lean and attenuated. Unlike the prevailing Tuscan red wine norm, these blends excluded white grapes. Non-traditional, non-Italian varieties were used in both blends (from 1975 when Tignanello substituted Cabernet Sauvignon for the native canaiolo). And, in a move that was to delight French coopers, small oak barrels, principally of French origin, were used for the barrel maturation of both wines. This latter innovation was a radical break with the traditional practice of using large casks of Slavonian oak, and marked a general movement towards an international style. The move was not welcomed by all in the domestic market and forced Antinori to seek a wider international public for the wines. The vini da tavola were born out of frustration with the DOC laws that came into practice in the late 1960s. These laws enshrined the practices of low quality and high quantity that prevailed in Italy in the post-war years, so producers trying to pursue a quality route found their way blocked by absurd laws. In Chianti, for instance, producers were compelled by DOC laws to add at least 10% white grapes to their blend. Any producer wishing to produce a superior red wine had to ignore this stipulation. Rather than do battle, they stepped outside the legal framework at the urging of Italian wine journalist Luigi veronelli, a vehement opponent of the mediocrity of the DOC laws. International varieties were enthusiastically planted and other Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines began to appear in the image of Sassicaia, particularly after the mid-1980s. The native Sangiovese grape was hardly neglected, however, and a substantial number of barrique-aged, 100% Sangiovese wines were also launched, as vini da tavola, in the 1980s, following in the path of Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte whose first vintage was 1977. Experiments with earlier maturing varieties syrah and, with notable success, merlot became increasingly common in the late 1980s, both for blending with Sangiovese and for varietal wines. Some non-traditional white varieties were also planted, notably chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, and various oak treatments essayed with variable success. Sassicaia was a pioneering wine, not only in its use of Cabernet but also in its revaluation of a zone never known for producing fine or even commercial wine. When first offered commercially, Sassicaia had to be sold as a Vino da Tavola, not because, as with Tignanello, it eschewed the legal constraints of the area, but because there was no DOC for bolgheri reds at the time. Its example was rapidly followed by other peripheral areas of Tuscany. At the time, these could not qualify as DOC wines, just as non-traditional varietal wines in an area such as Chianti Classico cannot be given DOC status. Such wines, with their ambitious price tags, came to be known as supertuscans. Inspired by these highly-priced Tuscan ‘outlaws’, ambitious producers in other regions, saddled with poorly conceived DOCs and/or a poor image for the wines of their zone, were quick to launch their own vini da tavola, in some instances even when they could have qualified as DOC wines. Some of these wines returned to the DOC fold in the 1990s, partly as a result of the greater prestige and credibility now accorded to the wines of their zones and regions, but many important wines were still deliberately sold as vini da tavola in the mid 2000s. In 1992, the Italian government finally bowed to EU pressure and introduced the Goria law, named after the then Minister of Agriculture. This led to the introduction with the 1994 vintage of the igt designation, which eventually resulted in the phasing out of such vini da tavola.