Hair Design Flashcards
Hair design is a temporary change in
Fo4m texture and direction that is achievable through wet and thermal design as well as long hair design techniques
Reasons to get hair design
Weekly service
special occasions
completion of another service
The two areas of hair design services are
Wet and thermal design
Hair design analysis includes
Levels of observation basic detail abstract
The two categories of surface texture are
Known as unactivated smooth, and activated rough
Tighter curl pattern added to increase layered forms create the illusion of
Shorter lengths
Rectangle shapes are usually used to move hair
Move in one direction
Curvature shapes used in hair design include
Oblong
The half circle is most often used to move hair
Half toward half away from the face
The temporary nature of hair design services provides clients with
Styling options Flexibility Try new designs Fun Freedom to change without chemical change
Wet design
Refers to area of hair designing in which the hair is manipulated into the desired shapes and movements while wet and then allowed to dry
Wet styling
Structured longer lasting
Thermal design
The technique of drying or designing hair by using a hand held dryer while simultaneously using your fingers a variety of brushes pressing comb and thermal irons
Thermal styling
Softer casual finish
Basic
Form/shape
Volume
Indentation
Detail
Texture
Abstract
Direction
Where hair moves in relation to face
Forward/toward face
Back/away
One side
Texture pattern
Straight Waves Curls Spiral curls Crimped
Inactivated surface texture
Straight
Flat iron & pressing comb
Activated surface texture
Waves Air forming with brush Curls Rollers Spiral curls Curling iron Crimped texture Crimping iron
Length reduction
Shrinkage factor that result from various size tools used in the same length hair
Texture speed
Activation
The dimension of the texture pattern
Ranges from slow to fast waves highly activated curls
Lage diameter tools on longer lengths
Produce large waves and are considered slow
Small diameter tools
Produce tighter curls considered fast
Direction within the design
Lines that can be straight curved or angled
Impression of motion
Hair design technique allow
Temporary alter shape
Texture
Direction of client sculpted form
Solid form
Unactivated surface texture
Perimeter weight line
Addition of curls shifts weight area upward creating the illusion of a layered form
The tighter the curl pattern
The tighter the curl pattern the more expansive the form becomes
Graduated form
Combination of unactivated and activated texture
Tighter curl pattern produce wider silhouettes and emphasize the triangular shape of the graduated form
Increase layered form
Oval shape
No discernible Weight
Curls cause illusion of shorter lengths
Uniformly layered form
Activated
Round shape no weight
Combination forms
Smooth activated
Defy gravity
Straight shapes
Create straight directional movement either away from face or toward
Rectangles
Triangles
Rectangles
Hair moves in one direction
Triangles
Disperse outward from the narrow end of the triangle
Or disperse from wide end toward the point
Curvature shapes
Create curved movement in the hair either in a clockwise or counterclockwise
Circle
Oblong
Circles
Subdivided into half or quarter circles
Half circle shown here is set with rollers to move half the hair away from face and half towards
Creates side fringe
Oblong
2 or more oblong that alternate directions create wave patterns
Molded or set with rollers or pincurls
The type of comb that is used for distribution molding scaling and parting the hair is called
Fine tooth tail comb
Type of comb that is used to backcomb the hair separate curls and define texture
Wide tooth tail comb
Brush that allows the greatest airflow hair can be dried faster while directing them into the lines
Vent brush
Round brushes may have a core that is made out of
Wood metal or plastic
Tool used to relax a set backbrush or smooth the surface of the hair is
Cushion brush
Conical rollers are used within curvature shapes and create
Progression of diameters
Examples of thermal design tools
Flat irons
Blow dryers
Curling iron
Blow dryer attachment that spreads airflow gently over a large area
Is called a diffuser
Flat irons consist of 2 flat plates that include
Metal
The characteristics of styling products include
Viscosity
Level of shine
Level of hold/control
Molding comb
Distribute and mold hair
Used for fingerwaves
Wide spaces teeth distribute
Fine spaced refine lines of distribution
Master sketcher comb
Used for backcombing and smooth surfaces
Used to detangle
Fine tooth tail comb
Drawing comb Used for distribution Molding Scaling Parting
Fine spaced teeth distribute hair smoothly
Wide tooth tail comb
Rake comb Used for backcombing Finishing techniques Create texture patterns Detangles Separate curls defines texture
Lifter comb
Teaser and lift comb
Used for backcombing
Details surface texture
Lifts and adds volume
Brushes consists of
Brushes can consist of nylon or boar bristles
7 - 9- row brush
Air form smooth textures
Creates directional emphasis
Create volume
Curved end texture
Vent brush
Greatest airflow so hair can be dried quickly
Directs hair into lines of the design
Round brushes
Create volume Curved end texture curls Available in different diameters Bristles are nylon or boar May have metal core retains heat Wood or plastic core
Cushion brush
Used to brush hair Relax Dry mold Back brush Smooth surface Soft padded base Type and density and length influence surface appearance
Rollers
Applied to wet or damp hair
More structured finish
Gripper type surfaces or metallic
Cylinder straight rollers
Create uniform curl formation across length width
Used with straight shapes (rectangles, and triangle)
Faster way to set hair using volume stand up pincurls
Conical cone shaped rollers
Consist of a progression of speed because of their wide and narrow ends
Progression curl diameter
Used in curvature shapes
Circles oblong
Blow dryer and attachments
Used to aid form wet hair
Concentrators
Diffusers
Concentrators
Focus on airflow to a small area
Diffusers
Spread a gentle airflow over larger areas and are used for creating scrunched textures
Curling iron
Temporary curvilinear texture pattern
Marcel irons
Pressing combs
Used to apply heat and tension to temporarily straighten hair
Flat iron
Two plates
Temporarily straightens hair
Plates can be ceramic or metal
Crimping iron
Angular serrated plates
Create crimped zip zag pattern
Undulating iron
Two undulating curved irons
Creates s pattern
Hot comb/brush
Used to dry
Smooth
Curl
Air waving
Hot rollers
Dry hair quickly
Add volume and texture
Self adhering rollers
Reinforce curl during or after blow dry
Add soft textural movement
Characteristics of styling products
Viscosity
Level of shine
Level of hold/control
Viscosity
Liquid to solids
Level of shine
Matte to high shine
Level of hold/ control
Light to super firm
Picks
Secure rollers in place ribbed surface
Double prong clips
Secure rollers smooth surface in place
Single prong clips
Secure pincurls
Wave styling clamp
Holds fingerwaves on place
Neck strip
Protects client from skin contact
Spatula
Used to remove product
Gel
Creates maximum control Support Structure Used for wet looming finishes Wet setting Molding Styling Firmer hold
Spray gel
Supports volume and movement
Used for wet looking finishes
Enhances and defines
Mousse
Supports volume and movement
Used to define texture and patterns
Foam consistency
Contain conditioners
Cream lotions
Smooth and soften
Control frizz
Define curls
Contains moisturizer
Oils/sebum
Control frizz
Smooth cuticle
Pomade
Creates sleek smooth finishes
Wax
Creates natural spiky rough textures
Paste
Adds styling control
Texture definition
Separation
Fiber
Adds styling control texture definition and separation
Putty
Creates chunky texture separation
Clay
Adds texture definition and support
Powders dust
Add volume hold and texture
Non aerosol hairspray
Holds finished design in place
Liquid dispensed through a pump
Aerosol spray
Holds in place
Pressing oil cream
Prepares and protects hair
Helps prevent scorching and breakage
Conditions
Adds shine
Thermal protectant
Protects against heat styling
Conditions
Adds shine
Place where motion begins
A point of origin
Straight or curved lines that originate from a single point of origin and radiate outward in any direction like the spokes of a wheel
Radial distribution
Used to move the hair in equal proportions from a cente point if origin
Half circle
Second direction of bottom half of the oblong shapes moves toward
Concave end
Two or more alternating oblong create
S shape pattern
Used with a circle
Triangle shaped base
The size of curl will be determined
Diameter of tool or pincurl
Determines the amount of movement
Arc
The finishing procedure that reinforces the established lines of the design
Dry molding
Technique used to increase height and control form by creating a cushion or mesh at the base
Backcombing
Setting procedures that lead to predictable results
Distribute Mold Scale Part Apply
Distribution
The direction the hair is combed or dispersed over the curve of the head
Begins from one of several points of origin
Point of origin
Place where the motion begins
Beginning of the movement within a shape or design
Mold
Shape
Designing we hair in straight or curved lines to create a pattern
Parallel distribution
Straight or curved lines
Distributed from multiple points of origin
Travel at an equal distance
Curved parallel lines result from distributing hair in curved motion
Radial distribution
Straight or curved lines that originate from a single point of origin
Radiate outward in any direction like spokes of a wheel
Distributed and then curved
Hair wrapping
Setting pattern
Smooth curvature finish
Reflects curves of head
Scale
Section
Carve out shapes in proper size and proportion to establish the direction and the lines of design
Blueprint for design
Straight shapes
Create straight directional movement away from the face toward the face
Rectangles Triangles Trapezoid Diamond Kites
Rectangles
Parallel straight distribution
Triangle
Radial distribution
Single point of origin
Parallel distribution used within triangle
Trapezoid
Straight shapes includes two parallel and two non parallel
Parallel distribution
Not scaled used to blend
Diamond and kite
Combined to encompass larger area
Back to back triangles
Narrow to wide with radial distribution
Wide to narrow Parellel distribution
Curvature shapes
Motion used to create curvature directions or waves
Clockwise
Counterclockwise
Circles oblong
Circle
Closed curve
Equal radii from point of origin
Half circle used mostly
Half cicle
Moves hair in equal proportions from center of origin
Straight radial lines single point of origin
Curved radial lines molded to create half circle shape clockwise/counterclockwise
Scaled according to size1
Expanded circle
Encompass larger area
Same distribution
R
Subdivided radial and parallel distribution
Oval
Unequal radii from point of origin
Half oval
Move hair unequal proportion from off center ppint of origin
Unequal radial lines produce fast to slow speeds unequal movements
Shorter radial lines faster speeds
Longer radial lines slower speeds
Distributed in straight lines from off center
Expanded oval
Extension of half oval
Encompass larger area
Scolded according to area
Oblongs
Elongated curvature shape with parallel c lines
Convex( close end)
Concave (open)
Multiple point of origin
1st and second direction
1st top half moves toward convex end
2nd bottom half moves toward concave end
Two oblong shape alternate result in s shape pattern
Parting line
Parting are lines that subdivide shapes or sections to help distribute and control the hair
Parallel horizontal partings
Rectangle shaped bases
Triangle and trapezoid shaped bases
Rectangles shaped bases
Parallel horizontal parting used
Create rectangle shaped bases
Triangle and trapezoid shaped bases
Parallel horizontal parting used
Used withing triangle shape to create trapezoid bases
Radial parting
Triangle shaped bases
Trapezoid shaped bases
Triangle shaped bases trape shaped bases
Radial parting used
Circle shape create triangled shaped vases in inner circle and trapezoid shaped bases in outer circle triangle shaped bases are created in an oval
Parallel diagonal partings
Rhomboid shaped base
Rhomboid shaped bases
Straight shapes with 2 set of parallel line no right angles
Parallel diagonal 45 ° used to create rhomboid shaped bases with oblong
Components of a curl
Base
Stem (arc)
Circle
Base
Area between straight or curved oartings within a shape or section of hair which the roller thermal iron or round brush is placed
Stem(arc)
Hair between the scalp and the first turn of hair around the roller determines the amount of movement
Longer stems create more movement
Shorter stems create less movement and more base
Circle
The hair that is positioned around the roller
Determines size of curl
Diameter of tool you choose determines size of circle
Closed Small circle strong wave fluffy effect
Open circle wider wave pattern with uniform curls
Straight volume
Creates lift and fullness
Straight volume
Position of tool in relation to base will affect the lift or volume achieved as well as amount of base strength
Base controls are same
Straight Base control
Size of the base in relation to diameter of tool and position of the tool in relation to base
Affects volume lift fullness mass
Closeness flatness
Straight and curvature shapes
Base size
Width and length
Width measured by diameter of tool
Length measured by length of tool
Base width
Measured by diameter tool
Base length
Measured by length of tool
Most common base sizes
1 diameter 1x
1 1/2 diameters 1 1/2x
2 diameters 2x
Pincurls
Size of base is related to diameter of circle
Straight volume On base
Full base 1x 45° above the center rotation base Sits completely on base Maximum volume Maximum base strength
Straight volume Half off base
Half base 1x 90° from center of base Sits half off and half on from bottom parting Less volume Less base strength
Straight volume Off base
1x 45° below center of base Tools sits completely off bottom parting Least volume Least base strength
Straighf volume Underdirected
1 1/2x 90° center of the base Sits in the lower portion of the base Not below Reduced volume and base strength
Straight volume Overdirected
Volume base 1 1/2x 45° above center of base Sits in upper portion of base not on or above parting Exaggerated direction and volume Reduced base strength
Backcombing
French lacing Teasing Ratting Matting Ruffing Performed underneath Cushion created at the base expands the form and concept the bases for more structured Large tooth comb to blend creates detailed texture finishes with airy effect
Backbrush
Performed on top of strand light airy effect
Brush and Wide tooth tail comb
Straight indentation positions
On base
Half off base
Off base
Underdirected
Straight volume tool positions
On base Half off base Off base Underdirected Overdirected
Straight indentation
Position of tool and size of base influence the amount of hollow or flatness achieved
Strength of base and mobility of curl
Straight indentation on base
1x 60° below center Sit completely within base Rolled upward Maximum base strength and volume
Straight indentation half off base
1x 30° below center Sits half off half on base Rolled upward Medium base strength Allows more mobility
Straight indentation off base
1x 0° below center Sits completely off its base Rolled upward Minimum base strength Maximum mobility
Straight indentation Underdirected
1 1/2 x 45° below center Sits within the base glose to the bottom of the parting Rolled upward Medium base strength Strong flare
Base size and tool position determine
Determine amount of volume or indentation in hair design
Straight shapes
Cylindrical rollers are used
Rollers set in straight shapes
Achieve directional movement
Rollers are chosen
According to desired curl patterns repetition alternation progression or contrast
The smaller the roller
The curlier the effect
Why rollers instead of pin curls
1 roller sets the same amount of hair as 4 pincurls
Setting time reduced
Allows set hair with tension
Results in firmer longer lasting set
Rectangles set
Achieve straight directional movement
Used as fill in or blending
For volume on sides
Multiple points of origin
Base control chosen according to desired effect
Straight indentation used for flip effect near perimeter hairline
Horizontal partings
Rectangle
Rollers are all same length
Diameter determines base width
Diameter varies to achieve progression speeds
Rectangle bricklay
Used on larger area
Various length rollers used stagged alternating patter of vase divisions to avoid splits
Triangle shapes
Used to achieve straight movement in any direction
Progression of tool lengths is used to accommodate narrow to wide shape
Bricklay pattern can used
Horizontal partings
Triangle
Radiate upward from one point of origin
Texture movement radiates outward diminishes toward perimeter
Diamond kite
Back to back triangles
Achieves maximum texture at widest area of shape
Gradually tapers toward narrow points of shape
Trapezoid
Parallel distribution
Used as a fill in when curvature shapes are used on sides
Stagged or bricklay
Air forming volume or indentation
Position direction and continual motion of brush controls amount of volume and indentation achieved
Volume = underneath
Indentation = on top
Keeping bases consistent
Allows equal amount of hair in each pincurl
More consistent results
Pincurls in straight shapes
Used on straight permed or naturally curly hair Not recommended for tightly curled hair Temporary effects Specialized closeness Allow wide range of movement
Forming pincurls
Relies in dexterity to create clean smoothly wound curls without tools
Smooth controls consistency
Pincurls are one of many ways
To temporarily change direction and texture of hair
Base shape for pincurls
Various shaped bases used
Avoids splits
Straight pincurl base shapes
Square/ rectangle
Triangle
Square/rectangle pin curl base
Used within square or rectangle shape
Triangle
Used within straight shapes along hairline
Alternates triangles yo avoid splits
Base control foe pincurls
Size of base in relation to size of circle Position of curl relative to base Effect length of stem Length determines movement Size of pincurl related to diameter
Straight volume pincurl base controls
On base
Half of base
Off base
Pincurl on base
No stem pincurl 1x Circle positioned on base Produces lift Strong curl effect Creates wave line
Pincurl half off base
Half stem pincurl
1x
Half circle is positioned below base
Equal degree of predetermined direction or volume
Pincurl off base
Full-time pincurl 1x Stem and circle are positioned below base Closeness and mobility Nape area or along hair line
Straight volume pincurls
Are large stand up pincurls that achieve a similar effect of hair wound around a roller
Weaker volume
Used within straight shapes create fullness and height
Transitional/semi stand up pincurls
Create a blend or transition from areas of volume to areas of closeness
Not Stand up or flat
Curvature volume
Creates lift mass
Base and strand are lifted
Ends turn under
Curvature indentation
Create areas of hollowness and depression
Strand is flat end turned upward
Adds flare and interest
Curvature volume and indentation are set
Counterclockwise and clockwise
Three common shapes used
Circle oval and oblong
Curvature base control
Size of base in relation to the diameter of tool and position of tool in relation to base
Effects volume or closeness
Base shapes used for curvature volume
Triangle
Trapezoid
Rhomboid
Base size includes
Width and length of base
Base width is measured
Diameter of tool
Base length is measured
Length of tool
Base size include
1x 1 1/2x and 2x
Large end of the roller is used to
Measure base size
Curvature volume positions
On base
Underdirected
Half off base
Off base
Curvature volume on base
1x
45° above center
Maximum volume
Curvature volume half off base
1x
90° from center
Maximum volume
Curvature volume Underdirected
1 1/2x
90° from center
Medium volume
Curvature volume off base
1x
45° below center
Least volume
Curvature indentation tool position
Base controls are the same
Roller is positioned on top of hairstrand rolled upward toward base
Roller shaped used to set curvature shapes
Cone shaped
Cone shaped rollers
Progression of speeds
Small end large end
Create stronger curvature movements than cylindrical
Rollers within a half circle
Moves and directs the hair equally away and the toward face
Equal radial lines
Fringe area or sides
Single center point of origin
Rollers within expanded circle
Extension of half circle Larger areas Equal radial lines Fringe area or sides create curved movements that extends to back Same distribution and molding rules Set using inner and outer technique
Rollers within a half oval
Positioned in front or sides Direct greater amount of hair off the face Unequal radial lines Only a portion is used Off-center point of origin Unequal length rollers Shorter rollers =fast speed Longer rollers = slow speed Positioned 1 diameter away from point of origin
Rollers within an expanded oval
Extension of half oval Larger areas Unequal radial lines On top or sides travels back Indirect technique Off center point of origin Each subsequent roller is established at the front bottom corner if each previous roller One diameter away from point of origin To close plartings are taken from original point of origin
Rollers within an oblong
Two or more oblong alternate directions
Create a strong wave pattern
Anywhere on head
Diagonally within rhomboid shaped based
When combines with indentation “flipped “ effect achieve
Oblong distribution
1st direction toward convex end
2nd direction toward concave end
Pincurls in curvature shapes
Wide range movement
Not recommended for tightly curl hair
Curved crescent shaped partings used
Size of base and position determine volume and indentation
Pincurls in curvature shapes
Wide range movement
Not recommended for tightly curl hair
Curved crescent shaped partings used
Size of base and position determine volume and indentation
Curvature shapes
Half circle
Half oval
Oblong
Base controls for curvature pincurls
,on base
Half off base
Off base
Three common types of curvature pincurls
Flat
Volume
Indentation
Flat pin curls
Carved Sculpturw curls Are used for closeness Hair doesn't travel any distance form base before stem No stem curl Base stem and circle are flat Begin at concave 2nd direction
Volume pincurls
Create fullness and height Positioned anywhere on head Base and stem are lifted away Circle turns under 1st direction Begin at convex
Indentation pincurls
Create hollow space and flare
Base if flat and stem and circle lifted
Followed by volume curls
2nd direction begin at concave
Fingerwaving
The art of shaping and defending the hair in graceful waves
Creates s shape pattern
Created by molding 2 complete alternating oblong that are joined and connected by a ridge
Oblong may be created
Clockwise or counterclockwise
Molded into a series of equal or Unequal curved lines
Oblong shapes are
Foundation of wave patterns
Concave
Open end lower half
Convex
Close end upper half
Each wave movement consists
Hollow recess area and a ridge high ledge
Pinching or pushing ridge
Creates overdirection of wave and is not recommended
Shadow waves
Low ridge fingerwaves
Skip waves
Variation of fingerwaves Composed of 2 alternating oblong and two pincurls Connected by a ridge First oblong molded second set Strong wave pattern Wide deep flowing waves Diagonally or vertically
Ridge curl
One oblong followed by a row of pincurls
What determines size of circle of a curl
Tool diameter
The driectionthe hair is combed or dispersed over the curve of the head is referred
Distributing
Manipulation of thermal iron when styling involves
Rolling the iron
Quick clicking movement
Opening and closing clamp
The hair type that generally requires lower temperature and less contact time when using and electric curling iron
Chemically altered hair requires lower temperature and less time
Which type of hair is the least difficult to press and requires no additional precautions
Medium hair
Fine hair
Treated gently
Less heat and pressure to avoid breakage
Medium hair
Least difficult to press
No precautions
Coarse
Resistant
Tolerate more heat
Texture character
Shape of texture pattern
Five wet setting provedires
Distribute mold scale part apply
Upper half of oblong shape
1st direction
