Hair Care Flashcards
pH
Potential hydrogen
A numerical measurement that indicates the acidity and alkalinity of a water based substance
What happens if pH products are not within a certain pH range
They can be damaging and possibly deadly
What can be Acidic or alkaline?
Only solutions containing water or solutions that can be dissolved in water can be acidic/alkaline in value
What is the most common method of identifying appropriate use of products??
The pH value
Why do different substances have different pH values?
pH starts with the behavior of water
What is water made of?
Water molecules have two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom a
What happens when small percentage of water molecules split?
The result of positive hydrogen ion, H+
And negative hydroxide ion, OH
What is the ratio of H2O
1:1 ratio of positive H+ ions and negative OH- ions
Why is water considered neutral?
The positive and negative ions balance each other out
What other words are used to describe alkalis?
Alkaline
Alkalinity
Base
What is an acid?
A substance that increases the concentration of hydrogen ions when placed in water
Releases H+ ions
What is an alkali??
Decreases the concentration of hydrogen ions when placed in water because it accepts H+ ions, resulting in fewer “loose” H+ ions and proportionately more OH- ions.
What happens when acids and alkalis are bright together?
They neutralize each other
What does acid taste like?
Sour and react strong with metals
What does alkalis taste like?
Bitter and feel slippery
If a solution is more positive hydrogen ions than negative
The solution is acidic
When a solution has equal number of positive and negative ions
It is neutral
If a solution has more negative hydroxide ions
The solution is alkaline
Too much hydrochloric acid leads to indigestion what can solve this?
Acid can be neutralized with alkali like indigestion tablet
When and who invented the pH scale??
1909 by Danish biochemist named soren sorensen
What are the ranges of a pH scale?
Ranges from 0 to 14
What is the midpoint in a pH scale indicate?
7 is the midpoint and it indicates neutral substance
What is pH range of distilled water?
Distilled water has a neutral pH of 7
What pH values indicates acidity??
pH values below 7 indicate more acidity
Higher concentration of H+ ions than OH- ions
What does pH values above 7 indicate?
pH values above 7 indicate more alkalinity
Higher concentration of OH- ions than H+ ions
The closer you get to 0
The stronger the acidity
The closer you get to 14
The stronger the alkalinity
What is important to know about a pH scale?
It is logarithmic scale.
Each change in value along scale is a change of 10 times
pH of 2 is 10x more Acidic than a pH of 3
100x more than 4
And 1000x more than 5
pH of 9 is 10x more alkaline than 8
100x more than 7
And 1000x more than 6
What are the three main ways to measure pH?
pH meter
Indicator liquid
Indicator paper
What is the most accurate of the three methods to measure pH?
pH meter is the most accurate of the three methods
What color does blue litmus paper turn to indicate acid pH?
Red in acid
What color does red litmus paper turn in alkali?
Blue
What else can a pH meter measure ??
The pH reading can measure the pH of the acid mantle that coats the skin and hair
ph balance
Product with pH from 4.5- to 5.5
Average pH range of hair skin and nails
What should you do when using alkaline products
Important to restore the pH balance once service is complete
What must a product have to be read in a pH rating?
A product Must contain water or have the ability to dissolve in water
pH- balanced shampoo
4.5-5.5
Alkaline shampoo
7.0- 9.0
Acidifying conditioner
2.2- 5.5
Deep penetrating conditioner
3.5- 5.5
Acid perm
6.9- 7.2
Alkaline perm
8.0 - 9.5
Sodium hydroxide relaxer
11.5 - 14.0
Ammonium thioglycolate relaxer
8.5-9.5
Neutralizer
2.5-7.0
Oil bleach
8.0- 9.5
Powder bleach
10- 11
Tints
9.5- 10.5
Hydrogen peroxide
2.5-4.5
Mousse
5.5-6.0
Gel
4.5- 5.5
Hair spray
5-6
Cleanser
4.5- 5.5
Toner
5.5-6
Moisturizer
5.5-6
Polish Remover
5.0-6
Cuticle cream
5.5-6
Hand lotion
4.5- 5.5
Draping
Performed prior to hair care services to protect clients skin and clothing
Shampoo capes
Used to protect clients clothes must be laundered in a solution capable of disinfecting the cape
Must be waterproof
Why must you use a neck strip?
The neck of the cape cannot come in direct contact with clients skin
Towel
Serves as protective barrier between the clients neck and plastic or waterproof cape
Plastic/waterproof cape
Protects client and clothing from becoming wet or damaged
Used for shampooing wet hair sculpting designing and chemical services
Neck strip
Replaces towel following shampoo service
Allows hair to fall naturally less bulky
Prevents loose hairs from embedding onto clients clothing
Cloth cape
Used for designing and sculpting services
Lighter weight
Allows dry hair to slide to floor easily
What is the purpose of shampooing
The purpose of shampooing is to cleanse the scalp and hair by removing dirt oils and product buildup
What is the purpose of conditioning
The purpose of conditioning is to fortify the damaged areas of the hair and protect it against further damage from chemical services or heat
How often should hair be shampooed?
Hair should be shampooed as often as necessary with a shampoo specifically designed for type and condition of hair
What happens if hair is not cleansed properly
Oil and dirt can accumulate and lead to scalp disorders
What do conditioners do?
Conditioners provide a temporary remedy for existing hair problems
What shampoo is recommended for dry brittle hair?
A high pH level can make hair dry and brittle so for already brittle hair A pH balance shampoo is recommended
When should water spills be cleaned?
Always wipe up water spills to prevent accidents and wet floors
What water is preferred for shampooing
Soft water is generally preferred for shampooing
What is soft water
Soft water rainwater or water that has been chemically treated
What does hard water contain
Hard water contain minerals and does not allow the shampoo to lather freely
Can hard water be softened
Yes hard water can be softened by a chemical process
How do you test water temperature
Always monitor water temperature before applying water to clients scalp hold the hose and position a finger in the water stream
What kind of water pressure should be used
Water pressure should be moderate and comfortable
What is the primary cause of water spill accidents
Excess water pressure
Benefits of brushing
Brushing increases blood circulation to the scalp while removing dust dirt and peoduct build up
Where should you start brushing first
Brush hair from ends first then work toward the scalp
What are brushes are recommended?
Brushes made from natural bristle are recommended the overlaying bristle clean hair better
When is brushing not recommended
Brushing hair prior to a chemical service and if cuts or abrasions are evident is not recommended
What is massage
Massage is a scientific method of manipulating the body by rubbing pinching tapping and kneading or stroking with the hands fingers or an instrument
What is a scalp massage?
Scalp massage involves movements performed on the scalp to relax the muscles and increase blood circulation
What are the primary scalp movements
Effleurage petrissage and tapotement
What is the most important movement
Petrissage
What does petrissage do??
Stimulates the sebaceous glands which produce a natural oil sebum that is often lacking in dry hair and scalp
5 basic massage movements
Eflleurage Petrissage Tapotement Friction Vibration
Effleurage
Light, gliding strokes, or circular motions made with the palms of the hands or pads of fingers
Often used to begin/end a treatment
Used on face, neck and arms
Petrissage
Light or heavy kneading and rolling of the muscles
Deep stimulation of muscles nerves and skin glands promotes the circulation of bloss and lymph
Tapotement
Light tapping or slapping movement applies with the (partly flexed) fingers
Stimulates nerves promotes muscle contraction increases blood circulation
Friction
Circular movement with no gliding used on the scalp or with a facial when less pressure is desired
Stimulates nerves increases blood circulation
Vibration
Shaking movement
Highly stimulating
Aromatherapy
Combination of our sense of smell and the use of plant extracts and their healing abilities
What are therapeutic effects or aromatherapy?
Invigorating the scalp encouraging renewed hair growth relieving flaking associated with dryness or dandruff increase blood circulation and calming and soothing the mind and body
What should you mix essential oils with
Essential oils should be blended with a base oil such as sweet Almond oil or Gravesend oil
Can premixed scalp therapy oils be directly applied to scalp
Yes
Can essentially oils be used with shampoo?
Essential oils can be mixed with shampoo and be used for scalp treatments or incorporated into shampoo service
Rosemary + chamomile
Normal hair and scalp
Patchouli + cedarwood + clary sage
Oily hair and scalp
Ylang-ylang + sandalwood + lavender
Dry hair and scalp
Lemon + rosemary + cedarwood + thyme
Oily dandruff
Sandalwood + bay + lavender + clary sage + rosemary
Alopecia hair loss
What accommodations should be used for children or senior clients during a shampoo service
Booster chair for children
Elderly or disabled clients might need to lean forward into the shampoo bowl
Wheelchair might have to stay in wheelchair
Beauty salon stroke syndrome
Serious damage to blood vessels in the back of the neck from hyperextended
How to avoid beauty salon stroke syndrome
Adding neck rest pad or folded towels on neck rest area
What is the purpose of a client’s record
To better meet the needs of the client
What does a client record include
Name Address Contact numbers Date of last skin patch Hair and scalp conditions Relevant medications Date of last service Products used, formula timing and heat Technique and application method Price of the service Retail products purchased Comments by stylist and client
What are four considerations for client records
Make sure information is secure
Ensure information is accurate
Make sure if using handwriting notes they’re legible
Keep information relevant
What are contraindications to look for
Infectious skin and scalp disorders
Cuts abrasions and injuries
Allergies
What do you do if client shows contraindications
Refere them to a physician
When to avoid scalp massage
Avoid massage for clients who have had head beck or jaw surgeries
What areas to avoid while performing a massage
Behind the earlobe which can be sensitive
What do you do with a pregnant client during a massage
Use very gentle pressure
What to be aware of during consultation
Verbal and nonverbal communication
Clients expectations and whether they can be achieved
Previous services and results
Type of service and products requested and cost
Hair type and Condition
What are the four service essentials (4cs)
Connect
Consult
Create
Complete
Connect
Meet and greet client with a firm handshake and a pleasant tone of voice
Communicate to build rapport and develop a relationship with client
Consult
Ask questions: how frequently do you shampoo your hair? What products do you use to shampoo or condition your hair?
Visualize the possibilities
Analyze your clients hair and scalp
Asses the facts and throughly think about your recommendations
Introduce shampoo and conditioner used and describe benefits
Organize and summarize plan
Gain feedback and approval
Create
Protect client by draping them
Make sure client is comfortable
Show and tell client what you’re doing
Focus on delivering service to best of your ability
Be economical with products
Teach your client how to care for their hair at home
Complete
Ask questions and look for verbal and nonverbal cues to determine satisfaction
Escort client to the retail area show products you used
Recommend products to maintain the appearance and condition of clients hair
Suggest a future appointment time
Offer sincere appreciation
Discard single use items disinfect tools
Complete client record for future visits
All-purpose shampoo
Cleanses the hair without correcting any special condition
Contain low alkaline content and low concentration of surface active agents
Does not strip color
pH- Balanced shampoo
Cleanses all hair types recommended to cleanse lightened color-treated or dry brittle hair
Formulated to hace same pH as hair and skin 4.5 to 5.5
Acid balanced
Especially for chemically treated hair without removing permanent hair coloring or toners
Used on bleached or dry or damaged hair
Plain shampoo
Removes oil contains a high alkaline base not recommended for chemically treated or damaged hair
Used successfully on Virginia hair in good condition
Not recommended for chemically treated or damaged hair
Follow with an acid rinse to restore acid balance
Soapless shampoo
Cleanses hair with either soft or hard water
Sulfate free
Lathers without alkaline ingredients
Medicated shampoo
Treats scalp and hair problems and disorders prescribed by the clients doctor
Clarifying shampoo
Removes residue such as product buildup chlorine minerals
Have a higher alkalinity
Used before chemical services
Anti-dandruff shampoo
Controls dandruff and scalp conditions requires massaging the scalp vigorously and rinse thoroughly
Strengthening protein additive shampoo
Cleases and conditions deposits protein fragments along the hair shaft
Designed to help strengthen the hair through the addition of artificial or hydrolyzed protein derivatives that strengthen damaged areas of the hair by depositing protein fragments along the hair shaft
Aerosol dry shampoo
Absorbs oil at the roots used by clients wanting to expand the time between shamans add texture
Non-aerosol powder dry shampoo
Cleanses the hair of clients whose health prohibits them from receiving a wet shampoo service absorbs oil and distributes oil as the product is brushed through the scalp and hair
Liquid dry shampoo
Cleanses the scalp and hair for clients who are unable to receive a normal shampoo very drying to the hair effective in cleaning wigs and hairpiece
Conditioning shampoo
Improves the tensile strength and porosity of the hair
Contain small amounts of vegetable and mineral additives that coat the cuticle layer of the hair resulting in surface benefits such as shine and manageability
Protein like biotin
Neutralizing
Restores the hair 4.5 to 5.5 pH by neutralizing any remaining alkaline values used generally in conjunction with a chemical relaxing service
Color shampoo
Enhances color treated hair and tones non color treated hair temporarily
Thinning shampoo
Cleanses the hair without weighing it down provides a healthy environment for the maximum amount of hair growth
Vinegar; lemon acid rinse
Keep the cuticle compact remove soap scum return the hair to its pH balance and counteract the alkalinity present after a chemical service
pH 2-3
Cream rinse
Softens add shine to and smooth the hair while making it tangle free for ease in combing
Anti dandruff rinse
Controls dandruff and scalp conditions
Acid balanced rinse
Closes the cuticle after a color service to prevent the color from fading
Acid rinse
Removes soap scum
Color rinse
Adds temporary color to the hair which lasts from shampoo to shampoo
Instant conditioners
Coats the hair shaft and restores moisture and oils to the hair
Don’t Penatrate into cortex or replace keratin in shaft
Vegetable oil base
Acidic pH Not recommended for fine or limp hair
Left on hair for 1 to 2 min then rinsed off
Normalizing conditioner
Closes the cuticle after alkaline chemical services
Contain vegetable protein and have Acidic pH
Applied for approximately 2 min
Body-building conditioner
Displaces excess moisture providing more body to the hair made from protein
Required when hair fine and limp and contains too much moisture
Penatrates damaged Hair shaft and deposits proteins into the Cortex
Used before chemical service
Left on for 10 min
Moisturizing conditioner
Add moisture to dry brittle hair that has been mechanically or chemically damaged
Humectants penetrate into shaft to bind and hold moisture in hair
Shouldn’t be used for several days after perm
Customized conditioner
Moisturizes and builds body
Formulated to meet special needs
Essential oil scalp treatment
Provides invigorating stimulating or soothing scents allows fluid movement on the scalp
Scalp toner
Adds a refreshing stimulating feeling to the scalp may have mild antiseptic properties and cleansing abil
Moisturizing agent
Replenishes or restores moistureto dry scalp formulated as creams oils or lotion
Towel
Protects clients skin and clothing
Plastic client cape
Protects the clients and clothing
Cloth client cape
Protects client and clothing during dry sculpting
Neck strip
Protects client skin
Natural bristle hair brush
Increases blood circulation to the scalp removes dirt debris and product buildup from the hair prior to the shampoo service
All purpose comb
Detangles and distributes the hair after the shampoo service
Plastic cap
Covers hair to allow deeper penetration of conditioning treatment
When to avoid scalp massage
Scalp abrasions scalp disorders prior to chemical service history of high blood pressure or heart conditions q
Detangle hair
From ends to roots
What type of pressure risk needed for a shampoo service
Moderate to strong
How do detangle hair prior to shampoo
From ends to roots
When performing massage movements
Do not break contact use slow rhythmic motions
What is important about water spills
Wipe water spill areas immediately
What do do after a service
Update the client record
Dermatitis occurs due to
Contact with products that irritate skin Allergy Constant shampooing Not rinsing and drying the skin after each service Not moisturizing regularly
Symptoms if dermatitis
Dryness itching redness soreness
What are the 6 classifications assigned to cosmetics?
Solutions Suspensions Emulsions Ointments Soaps Powders
Immiscible
Liquids not able to be mixed
Miscible
Liquids able to be mixed together without separating
Solutions
Mixtures of two or more kinds of molecules evenly dispersed solutions do not separate when left standing generally clear mixtures
Solute
Any substance that dissolves into a liquid and forms a solution stirring is usually required when dissolving a solute can be either solid liquid or gas
Example dry cocoa powder
Solvent
Substance that is able to dissolve another Substance
What is the universal solvent
Water
What are the 3 classes of solutions
Dilute solution
Concentrated solution
Saturated solution
Dilute solution
Contains q small quantity of the solute in comparison to the quantity of solvent
Concentrated solution
Contains a large quantity of the solute in comparison to the quality of solvent
Saturated solution
Can’t take or dissolve more of the solute than it already holds at a given temperature
Suspension
Mixtures of two or more kinds of molecules have a tendency to separate when left standing and therefore need to be shaken before using
Lotions are suspensions
Emulsions
Formed when 2 or more immiscible substances (oil+water) are united with the help of a binder or gum like substance (emulsifier) gum like substance might be a soap
Example perm solution
Ointments
Mixtures of organic substances and a medical agent usually found in semi solid form
Water is not present
Ex lipstick pastes mucilages
Soaps
Mixtures of fats and oils converted to fatty acids by heat and then purified
Deodorants soaps beauty soaps medicated soaps and liquid soaps
Powders
Equal mixtures of inorganic and organic substances that do not dissolve in water and that have been sifted and mixed until free and coarse gritty particles
What can happen due to improper cleansing
Improper or irregular cleansing allows a breeding place for disease causing bacteria
Can lead to scalp disorders and even hair loss
How often should hair be shampooed
As often as necessary
Oily hair needs shampooed more often
Why are strong alkaline shampoos not recommended
They make the hair dry and brittle
Acid mantle
A mixture of secretions from the sebaceous glands and perspiration from sweat glands
Help maintain the hair and scalp at its pH 4.5 to 5.5
Allow a shiny alive appearance
What part of the hair fiber is dead
Hair fiber beyond the scalp is dead
Biologically inactive
Why shampoo important
Failure to remove scalp secretions on a regular basis allows build up
Secretions can be spread
Surfactant
Surface active agents used to remove oil from hair
Cleansing agent
Made of Lipophilic and hydrophilic
Lipophilic
Surface tail which loves grease and hates water
Hydrophilic
The surfactant head which loves water and hates grease
What is the role of water
Water plays an important part in the success of your shampoo
Hard water
Well water contains certain salts of calcium magnesium and other metals that prevent the shampoo from lathering can be softened by chemical process
Soft water
Contains a very small amounts of minerals and is preferred for shampooing as it lathers more freely
How can you tell concentration of ingredients
They are listed in order
How do you destroy microbial life on water
Boil at a temperature of 212 Fahrenheit 100 celcius
Two methods used in purification of water
Sedimentation and filtration
Sedimentation
During sedimentation undesirable substances such as clay sand etc sink to the bottom
Filtration
The undesirable substances pass through a porous substance
How is the purification process completed
Chlorine kill bacteria
When is hair strongest
Hair is strongest at pH of 4.5 to 5.5 because it is compact and least swollen
What happens when the natural Acidic conditions are maintained
The cuticle scales are kept in a more compact state therefore the minimal amount of swelling of the cuticle fiber occurs
What happens if the shampoo is too alkaline or acidic
The hair fiber can swell swelling weakens the hair making it more susceptible to other forms of distress such as dryness and cuticle damage
What type of hair is more pleasing in appearance and easier to manage
Strong compact hair
Swollen cuticle has what kind of pH
pH of 3 or less
Minimum swelling has what kind of pH
4-6
Maximum swelling has a pH of
8 or higher
Cosmetic appearance
The luster or shine of the hair
If the layers of the outer cuticle stand away from the hair shaft the hair will appear rough and dull
Porosity
Refers to the ability of the hair to absorb moisture liquid or chemicals
Manageability
Is determined by how easily a comb can pass through wet or dry hair
Elasticity
The ability of the hair to stretch and return to its natural shape without breaking
How long can healthy hair can be stretched when wet
50%
How long can healthy dry hair be stretched
20%
What does tensile strength measure
The amount of tension that can be applied before hair breaks
What all do rinses affect
Rinses affect mostly the surface of the hair
How long does rinses stay in hair
Rinses are applied to Hair and rinsed off immediately
What are the negative effects of rinses
Rinses can actually be detrimental to the hair because they contain ingredients that build up on the hairs surface
Buildup can make the hair feel limp attract dirt and make it di to control
Why are rinses applied to the hair
Rinses are applied to the hair to help close the cuticle and make hair feel sift and manageable
What animal protein is found in conditioners
Bovine serum refined and sterilized cattle tissue such as blood and bone marrow
Refined placental of female cattle and sheep
And collagen
What vegetables proteins are found in conditioners
Soybeans Balsam trees Olives Wheat Germ Tong beans
Additional ingredients found in conditioners
Amines/ quats
Dimethicones
Fatty alcohol and acids
Amines/quats
Make hair easier to comb and control static
Dimethicones
Give softness to the feel of hair without weighing it down they are a form of silicone
Fatty alcohols and acids
Give hair a smooth feel when dry and make it easier to comb
Creamy in texture and help retain moisture
How are conditioners and rinses different
Conditioners usually penetrate deep into the hair so they ate formulated differently from rinses
Food and drug administration
Agency that regulates cosmetics in us
United States pharmacopeia
Book that lists and standardizes drugs
International cosmetic ingredient dictionary and handbook
Published by personal care products council
Preservative
Natural or synthetic ingredient that is added to personal care products to prevent spoilage whether from microbial growth or undesirable chemical changes
Antioxidants
Protects against damage and degradation caused by exposure to oxygen
Antimocrobial
Protects product from growth of micro organism
Preservatives help
Prevent contamination degradation cause by exposure to oxygen growth of micro organism
Cetyl alcohol
Keeps oil and water from spreading also a foam booster
Dimethicone silicone
Skin conditioner and anti foam ingredient
Primitive hair germ
Cluster of cells
Root sheath
Follicle or tube like pocket out of which hair will grow
What determines how hair grows
Shape of hair shaft determines how it grows
The diameter of a hair fiber will be the same
Diameter of hair fiber will be the same as the diameter of the inside of the follicle
What determines natural flow
The angle of the hair follicle determines the natural flow or wave pattern of hair
What shape bulb determines straight hair
Round, positioned perpendicular to the surface of the scalp with a slight tilt
What shape bulb determines wavy to curly hair
Oval, positioned more curved to the surface of the scalp
What shape bulb determines tightly curled hair
Elliptical, almost parallel to the surface of the scalp
What are two primary parts of the hair
Hair root and hair fiber
Hair root
The portion of hair that is inside the hair follicle inde skin surface
Hair fiber
Sometimes referred to as the hair shaft or strand portion of hair that extends above the skins surface
Papilla
Filled with capillaries that supply nourishment to the cells around it
Provide nourishment to Germinal matrix
Germinal matrix
The area of the bulb where cell division takes place
Three major layers of the hair
Cuticle
Cortex
Medulla
Cuticle
The outer covering of the hair shaft madeup of overlapping layers of transparent scales
Protective part of the hair shaft and is made up of a harder protein than the Cortex
Cortex
The second layer consisting of unique protein structures
Gives hair most of its pigment and strength
Medulla
The central core of the hair shaft also called the pith or marrow (often absent in fine or very fine hair)
Bulges
Attached to root sheath beginning of sebaceous glands
Sebaceous glands
Oily glands produce sebum and sent it through the hair follicles to the surface of the skin to prevent the hair and skin from becoming too dry
Acid mantle
Sebum mixed with body perspiration
Protects the cuticle or outer covering of the hair fiber and maintains the natural pH of hair and skin
Arrestor pili muscle
Comes from cells in the dermal layer that attach to the follicle just below sebaceous gland
Causes hair to stand on end when person is cold or scared
Aids in the secretion of sebum from the sebaceous glands
What causes hair to not grow back
If the papilla is destroyed
Keratinization
Process whereby cells change their shape dry out and form keratin protein
What happens after keratinization
once keratinized the cells that form the hair fiber or strand are no longer alive
Why is the acid mantle important
It is important because it protects the cuticle of the hair fiber and maintains natural pH of hair and skin
What happens as cells begin their journey upward through the hair follicle
They separated into specific types
Some cells will become cuticle scales others will make up the cortex and others will have the particular formation of medulla cells
Anagen
Active growing stage
Hair bulb are attached to root sheath
90% of hair is in this stage last 2 to 6 years
Long waist-length hair is the result of long anagen stages
Hair color is darker during the anagen stage
Catagen
Brief transitional stage
Cell division stops
Stage last only a few weeks
Telogen
Resting stage Hair bulb had no attached root sheath Hair falls out On average 10-15% Last 3- 4 months End of cycle
Average hair growth
1/2 in per month
Cilia
Eyelashes
Supercilia
Eyebrows
Capilli
Hair of the head
How often is eyebrows and eyelashes replaced
Every 4 to 5 months
Heredity
Genes that people inherit from their parents will determine many things about the makeup of the hair such as its color shape and diameter
What is hair made out of
Hair is made our of mostly protein the linking together of amino acids
What does the cortex look like
A helix or coil
What are protofibrils
Amino acid chains coiled around each other
How do microfibrils form
Protofibrils twist around each other to form microfibrils
How do macrofibri form
Microfibrils spiraling into each other
How do mosaic pattern occur
Because each hair follicle has its own unique growing cycle
What affects hair growth
Illness and lack of necessary minerals and vitamins, altercations to physiological state of the body, disease and medications, chemical services that may be weak already
Where in the body does hair not grow
Hair never grows on palms soles of feet lips or eyelids
What are three factors that affect the behavior of hair
Heredity
Environment/weather
Products and appliances
How does Heredity affect hair
Genes inherited that determine makeup of hair such as color shape and diameter
How does Environment/weather affect hair
Rain= hair absorbs moisture
Extra moisture alter bonds that give hair its shape resulting in frizz or limp hair
Wind dry out hair
Sun damages
How does products or appliances affect hair
Affect structural organization of hair
Is all hair the same?
Diameter and pigment differ in races
What is one of the result of genetic coding
The diameter of the hair shaft
What is the cuticles purpose
The cuticle is the protective part of the hair shaft and is made up of a harder protein than the cortex
Hard resistant layer of protein
Harder or firmer not easily stretched
Fine hair
Behaves like “all cuticle”
40% of fine hair can be cuticle
Smaller diameter
Coarse hair
10-12% cuticle
Larger diameter
Cortex
Elastic quality
What is the reason hair would have more elasticity and ability to be molded and reshaped
Hair is 90% cortex and 10% cuticle making the hair behave more like the cortex
Why would hair be more resistant to perms relaxers or holding a set
If it has a higher percentage of cuticle in the hair fiber the hair will behave more like a cuticle
Trichology
Study of hair and scalp
Melanin
Gives skin and hair their color
Protects skin from sun’s damaging rays
How is melanin produced
By melanocytes, cells that exist among the dividing cells within the hair bulb
Melanosomes
Bundles of a pigment protein complex
Where are melanocytes located
They rest near the hair bulbs nourishment center (dermal papilla)
What determines amount and type of melanin and pigment melanin
Genes
What are the two types of melanin that create the variety of hair colors
Eumelanin
Pheomelanin
The amount Size and distribution of one or both influence resulting color
Eumelanin
Brown/ black hair color
Melanin may be found in the cuticle layer
Pheomelanin
Red/yellow hair
If concentrated near cuticle layer hair will appear red
Melanin found in cortex only
Albinism
Lack of pigmentation in hair and skin
Person with this is Albino
How is gray hair caused
Gray hair is caused by reduced color pigment melanin in the cortex layer
Referred to as mottled hair white spots scattered about hair shaft
Grows from papilla
Doesn’t turn gray if it’s above skin
Natural aging process also illness or emotional conditions
Defect in pigment formation causes gray prematurely at birth
What type of hair lacks melanin and is at greater risk for sun damage
White hair can turn yellow from too much exposure
How is hair type determined
Touch and visual examination
Texture
Degree of coarseness/ fineness in hair fiber
Coarse hair
Feels like wool
Rough
Medium hair
Feels like cotton
Wiry
Fine hair
Feels like silk
Soft
Density
Number of active hair follicles per square inch on the scalp
Thick head = more active hair follicles
Ligh medium or heavy (thin medium thick)
Influences the amount of hair that should be parter and wrapped around perm tool
Heavy density
Smaller subsections to allow absorption of products
Light density
Large subsections
What happens when you place too much hair on perm tool
Weakens curl pattern
What are the two factors to determine condition if hair
Porosity
Elasticity
Porosity
Ability of hair to absorb moisture liquids or chemicals
Influenced by raised cuticles
Healthy hair has natural resistance due to closed cuticle
Raised cuticles are more porous
Average porosity
Slightly raised cuticle
Normal ability to abso moisture
Good condition
Resistant porosity
Flat cuticle closeness of cuticle
Least about of moisture absorb
Poor porosity
Extreme porosity
Raised cuticle
Damaged hair from overprocessing
Very porous
Not good condition
Treatment requirre
Uneven porosity
Mixed types
Hair has a combination of two or more different porosities
How to test elasticity
Pull and release if hair almost completely returns to pattern is in good condition if it returns only 50% it is structurally weak and needs conditioning
Elasticity
Ability of hair to stretch and return to its original shape without breaking
Resiliency
Pliability
Buoyancy
Springiness
Normal hair = lively spring back and shiny
How much can normal dry hair be stretched
1/5 20% of its length
How much can normal wet hair be stretched
40 to 50%
How many layers of cuticle scales does each hairstrand have
7 to 12
W1hat does the cuticle protect
The inside of the strand cortex
What lubricates outermost layer of the cuticle and reduces friction
The acid mantle
Broken hair
Cuticle is cracked and frayed
Caused by excessive stretching and traction
Excessive chemical processes sun exposure and chlorine
Brushing while wet
Cutting hair may be the solution
Split ends
Small Cracks in the cuticle that deepen into the cortex
No cuticle left in the region become frayed and unsightly
Can be temporarily sealed with protein reconditioning
Abraded cuticle
Broken hair
Abraded hair
Broken hair
Brittle hair
Split ends
Fragilitis crinium
Split ends
Trichoptilosis
Split ends
Nodules
Characterized by the presence of lumps or swelling along the hair shaft
Trichorrhexis nodosa
Nodules
May be caused by an inherited defect in hairs keratin protein structure
Knotted hair
Nodules
Trichonodosis
Physical knotting of hair
Canities
Grayness of the scalp
Natural aging
Congenital canities
Occurs at or before birth in albinos
Acquired canities
Loss of pigment in hair as person ages
May happen in early adult life
Causes
Extended illness nervous strain or heredity
Oxidative products cover gray hair
Monilethrix
Beads or nodes formed on hair shaft
Periodic narrowing of hair shaft
Sparse hair growth short and brittle hair breaks easily
Beaded hair
Monilethrix
Matting
Mass of hairstrands tangled together in a mat that cannot be separated
Excessive chemical hair lighting
Excessive friction
Plica polonica
Excessive matting
Ringed hair
Alternating bands of Gray and dark hair
Hereditary
May affect any number of hair fibers
Pili annulati
Ringed hair
Hypertrichosis
Abnormal coverage of hair on areas of the body where normally only lanugo hair appears
Werewolf syndrome
Ambras syndrome
Hypertrichosis
Lanugo
Baby fine hair
Hirsuties
Excessive amounts of terminal hair found in women in areas of the body where men usually get hair
Can be congenital birth
Can be Acquired medical
Superfluous hair
Hirsuties
How does mechanical damage occur
Incorrect use of salon tools
What happens when heat is used too close to hair
Hair may be brittle and cortex could possibly melt
Scales
Thick crusty patches of red irritated scalp resulting from an autoimmune disease ir the skin
Psoriasis
Scales
Dandruff
Chronic scalp continues with excessive flaking, itchy tightness and irritation
Pityriasis
Dandruff
Dry dandruff
Dry flakes attached to scalp or hair appear translucent
Pytyriasis capitis simplex
Dry dandruff
Greasy or waxy dandruff
Oily flakes combines with sebum which stick to the scalp in clusters and are yellow in color
Pityriasis steatoides
Greasy waxy dandruff
Malassezia
Naturally occurring microscopic fungus
Fungus Feeds on scalps natural oil creates byproducts that cause irritation body reacts by accelerating amount and rate of flaking of dead skin cells
What scalp conditions are contagious
Ringworm honeycomb ringworm itch mite head lice
Ringworm
Red circular patch of small blisters
Caused by Vegetable parasites
Tinea
Ringworm
Ringworm of the scalp
Enlarged open hair follicles that are surrounded by clusters of red spot papules black spots may be visible
Tinea capitis
Ringworm of the scalp
Honeycomb ringworm
Dry yellow encrusted areas on the scalp may have a peculiar odor shiny pink or white scars may result
Scutula
Dry yellow encrusted areas on the scalp
Tinea favosa
Honeycomb ringworm
Itch mite
Red and watery visicles or puss filled areas caused by an animal parasite burrowing under the skin
Scabies
Itch mite
Head lice
Infestation of head lice on the scalp causing itchy and eventual infection
Pediculosis capitis
Head lice
Vellus
Short fine non pigmented hair that cover most of the body not visible to the eye replaces lanugo at birth
Terminal hair
Replaces vellum around puberty originates from predetermined follicles
What is the average daily hair loss
40 to 100 strands a day
How many average hairs per square inch
1000
How many average individual stands of hair
100000
Do all hair colors have same number of hairs
The number of hairs on head varies by color
Red
90000
Brown
110000
Black
108000
Blonde
1400000
Alopecia
Excessive hair loss
Caused by fungal or bacterial infection or inflammation disease if scalp
When no apparent scalp abnormality may be caused by nutritional deficiency drugs emotional trauma other physiological changes
What is the most common type of alopecia
Androgenetic alopecia
Androgenetic alopecia
Combination of heredity hormones and age that causes progressive shrinking or miniaturization of certain scalp follicles
Causes shortening of hairs growth cycle when eventually no hair grows
What questions help identifying resons for alopecia
Family history
How is the degree of hair loss evaluated
By rating patern and density
Patterns
Shape and location of tge area with hair loss
Density
How much hair is covering the scalp in the area of hair loss
Women only get evaluated in density
Men with androgenetic alopecia
Male pattern baldness
Horseshoe shaped fringe of hair
Common
Pattern evaluated when reviewing loss
Women with androgenetic alopecia
Generalized thinning of the hair over crown
Scattered hair thinning
Front hairline retained as straight pattern or m shaped
Density evaluated
Rare
Diameter of pony tail becomes smaller over time
Postpartum alopecia
Temporary hair loss due to pregnancy
Caused by Hair staying longer in the anagen cycle during pregnancy
Alopecia areata
Autoimmune skin disease that is confined to a few areas and is often reversed in a few months
Sudden loss of hair is round or irregular patches without inflamed scalp
Alopecia areata totalis
Alopecia areata totalis presents itself as total hairless on scalp
Alopecia areata universalis
Presents itself as loss of hair over the entire scalp and body
Alopecia prematura
Baldness that occurs in early life
Telogen effluvium
Premature shedding of hair during resting phase
Which can bea a result of
Childbirth shock drug intake fever
Usually reversed once condition is correct
Traction/ traumatic alopecia
Hair loss due to repetitive traction on hair
Mechanical damage sometimes chemical damage reversed once trauma has stopped
Trichotillomania
Trich
TTM
Condition which people compulsively pull hair from their bodies affect 2-4%
No cure
Hair loss treatments
FDA approved products that regrow hair or prevent hair loss
Producs thaf provide an ideal environment for possible hair regrowth or prevention
Surgical options hair transplants hair plugs scalp reductions
Wigs toupees hair additions hair weaving are non medical options
Humectants are what type of ingredients
A himectant I’d a moisturizing ingredient
What is used for hair that has been damaged by strong alkaline shampoos chemical or heat styling
Conditioner