France - Burgundy Flashcards by Carlos Santos

Location

Main areas

Plantings

Overall quality & price levels

located in central France; with Chablis being more northern, closer to Champagne than to the Cote d’Or.
comprises 5 areas: Chablis, Cote d’Or, Cote Chalonnaise, Maconnais and Beaujolais.
Plantings vary: a) Chablis 80% Chardonnay; b) Cote d’Or 60% Pinot Noir; c) Beaujolais Gamay dominant + Chardonnay.
mainly good to outstanding in quality.
mid-priced to super-premium.

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Location

Style

Quality & price levels

northern-most part of Burgundy, 110km northwest of the Cote d’Or.
lies in the valley of the River Serein.
style: all wines are dry, medium-bodied, med alc, zesty high acid, green apple & lemon fruit, wet stones, wet rocks; general trend is for no / minimal oak (some producers might use it for 1er / grand cru wines).
good to oustanding quality.
mid-price to premium, with a few super-premium wines.

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Overall climate and challenges

Options for managing frost

Main soil type

continental (cold winters / warm summers).
considerable vintage variation.
rainfall spread throughout the year: risk of fungal diseases / rain at harvest.
vulnerable to spring frosts and hail storms.
Options for managing the risk of frost: a) smudge pots (polution / staff); b) sprinklers (costly to install); c) later pruning promotes later bud-burst.
main soil type: limestone and clay, some with a considerable abount of fossilized seashells (Kimmeridgian soil).

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Rootstocks used & why

Vine training system & why

Yields (compared to Cote d’Or)

Harvesting method

41B & 420A rootstock widely used (tolerant to high pH and low vigour).
double Guyot replacement cane training is typical (frost)
yields are higher than Cote d’Or; recently reduced by frost & hail damage.
mostly machine harvested; grand cru sites: too steep, hand harvested.

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Location, orientation, soil types

and styles of Petit Chablis, Chablis,

Chablis 1er and Grand Cru

Petit Chablis: typically higher, cooler vineyards (top of the hills); Portlandian soils (hard limestone, less clay); on flat soils or gentle slopes; light bodied wines, high acid, light intensity of green apple and lemon.
Chablis: large area on Kimmeridgian soil; mixed aspects; medium intensity of green apple and lemon.
Chablis 1er Cru: 40 named vineyards; south to south-east facing; Kimmeridgian soils; named plots (lieux-dits).
Chablis Grand Cru: close to the village itself; single grand cru with 7 climats (including Les Clos and Vaudesir); faces south-west; 1% of total production; greater weight and concentration.

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Chaptalisation

MLF

Fermentation vessels

Ageing vessels

chaptalisation up to legal limit is common (not in warmest years).
fermentaion: typically in stainless steel / concrete.
storage: typically stainless steel / concrete; wines may also spend time on lees to enhance texture; battonage is rare.
malolactic conversion is common.
only some 1er & grand crus will be handled with oak (fermentation / ageing);
there’s a range of styles, varying from stainless steel / concrete through to old oak and new oak.
this issue is very controversial.

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Grape variety permitted

Yields

Only chardonnay is permitted.
Petit Chablis & Chablis AOC: 60 hL/ha.
1er Cru AOC: 58 hL/ha
Grand Cru AOC: 54 hL/ha

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Distinction between domaines & negociants

Associations representing producers

Price levels (key drivers & comparison with Cote d’Or)

International x domestic markets

Principal international markets

traditional distinction between domaines and negociants is breaking down (negociants buying vineyards and domaines supplementing their production).
there are several associatons in Chablis, representing producers to combat fraud or promoting the quality of its Grand Cru.
comparing with Cote d’Or: domaine & level can drive price; prices are lower than the corresponding quality level in Cote d’Or.
2/3 (by volume) are exported.
principal international markets: UK, US, Japan, Sweden.

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Overall climate (difference with southern parts)

Factors influencing individual sites

Factors affecting vintage variation

Climatic challenges (frost, hail & rain)

overall climate: moderate continental (cold winters / short warm summers); typically dry autumns.
Maconnais is slightly dryer / warmer.
factors influencing individtual sites: aspect, altitude, degree of slope and soils.
great vintage varitation: due to its northerly location, vineyard site and particular weather of each year.
frost can be an issue (both varieties are early budding).
hails is also an isse: a) early in the vintage can cause reduced yield; b) later in the season, it’ll damage grapes (can promote the spread of grey rot).
rain can also be an issue: a) early in the season can disrupt flowering / fruit set; b) during the season increases the ristk of fungal diseases; c) at harvest can lead to dilution and greater risk of rot.

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Critical factors influencing quality & style

Cote d’Or location

General aspects and orientation

Top x bottom x mid-slope sites

Best sites in Cote Chalonnaise

Best sites in Maconnais

aspect & elevation: most critical factors in quality and style.
Cote d’Or lies on a range of hills, north to south, 200m to 400m ASL.
side valleys are orented in more east-west directions at various points.
range of different of aspects, with most south or sout-east facing.
sites at the top of the slope: poor shallow soils / exposed to the wind (aligote, cremant).
sites on the bottom of the slope: deeper soils / vulnerable to frost.
sites mid-slope: best sites = a) well-draining / shallow soils;
b) good sunlight interception; c) better frost protection; d) better ripening potential.
aspects are more varied in Chalonnaise: beste sites are south-east facing (Bouzeron & Rully).
best sites in the Maconnais are in Pouilly-Fuisse; some of those sites have now gained 1er Cru status (22 sites).

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Main composition

Soil type in Cotes de Nuis

Soil type in Cote de Beaune

Soil type in Cote Chalonnaise & Maconnais

Variatioin in soil depth (top & bottom of slopes)

Effects in viticulture

generally, soils are composed of mix of limestone & clay, with varying proportions.
Cote de Nuis: mix dominated by limestone (majority of highly regarded Pinots grow here).
Cote de Beaune: mix dominated by clay, deeper soils (majority of highty regarded Chardonnays grow here).
Cote Chalonnaise and Maconnais: mix range of clay and limestone.
Depth of soils above the bedrock varies, due to the soils moving down by erosion.
Top of the slope: soils are shallow - too little soils for vine to grow.
Bottom of the slope: soils are deeper, with more clay and poorer drainage and more fetile - leads to more vigour = greater risk of shading = less ripe grapes.

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Budding & ripening, advantages (3), disadvantages (2 + 4 diseases) and flavour characteristics

early budding / early ripening.
Advantages: a) early ripening - suitable for cool regions; b) produces relatively high yields without loss of quality; c) can grow in a variety of soils.
disadvantages: a) early budding - suceptible to frosts; b) prone to grey rot, powdery mildew, millerandage and grape vine yellow.
flavour characteristcs: a) cool climate: apple, pear, lemon and lime, wet stone notes, light to med body, high acid, med alc;
b) moderate climate: ripe citrus, melon, stone fruit, med to med(+) body, med(+) to high acid

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Budding & ripening, advantages (2) , disadvantages (4 + 5 diseases) and flavour characteristics

early budding / early ripenning.
Advantages: a) suitable for cool climate; b) can produce high quality wines, expressive of terrior.
Disadvantages: a) susceptible to frost; b) yields - opposite to Chardonnay; c) very delicate: millerange, downy & powdery mildew, fan leaf and leaf roll viruses; d) in warm climates, it’s prone to echaudage (sunburn) and tends to ripen too fast (reduced intensity);
flavour characteristics: cool climate: strawberry, raspberry and red cherry flavours; village level and above - light oak-derived flavours (smoke, clove), low to med tannins (grand cru can have med(+) tannins), med alc, high acid; with ageing - earth, game, mushroom and forest floor notes.

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Training systems & planting density

Yield control techniques

Debudding & green harvest: advantages & disadvantages

Organic & Biodynamic

Pestes & diseases (4) + treatment

Method of harvest

Harvest date (pros & cons)

some vines are pruned using Cordon training systems (Cordon de Royat - limits vigour / more old wood = harbour diseases).
traditionally: Guyot (more recently Poussard-Guyot).
planting density: typically 8k - 10k vines / ha.
yield control: winter pruning, debudding (before flowering) and green harvest.
advantages: a) debudding - good balance in the vine; b) gree harvest - allows producers to assess the size, shape and position of the bunches / assess weather damage (hail) before taking action.
disadvantages: a) debudding - reduces yield early in the season (frost, hail, fungal diseases can reduce yield further); b) green harvest - can cause changes in vine development through compensation (excessive growth in the remaining bunches).
organic / biodynamic: have become more popular; challenges: climate & the size of the vineyards (shared vineyards + different opinions between producers).
pestes & diseases: a) grape moths = pheromone capsules;
b) fungal diseases (powdery & downy mildew, grey rot) = canopy management + spraying; c) Grapevine yellows = producers are trying to control the spread; d) esca and other trunk (significant problem) = H2O stress avoidance + treating pruning wounds with fungicide.
harvest: mostly done by hand; date of harvest is crucial:
a) early = preserves acid / grapes might not be fully ripe;
b) late = riper fruit / challenges with weather.

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Acidification / deacidification / chaptalisation

Harvestin & sorting

Pressing & must clarification (premium / less premium wines)

Must hyperoxidation (why)

Native x inoculated yeast

Fermentation temp (premium x less premium wines)

Fermentation vessels (premium x less premium wines)

Oak maturation

Proportions of NFO & barrel size

MLF

Batonnage

Filtration

acidification / deacidification permitted (latter rarely used).
chaptalisation: used to the regular; less necessary with climate change (warmer vintages) and better canopy management.
almost all grapes in Cote d’Or are harvested manually.
almost all grapes are sorted = sorting tables.
typically bunch pressed (aids drainage) directly (to avoid extracting tannins).
must: a) premium wines (clarified by sedimentation); b) less premium wines (by other methods).
must hyperoxidation: with aim to produce a wine less prone to oxidation (to avoid PremOx).
fermentation: a) native yeast = common practice (producers belive it encourages terroir expression) ; b) incoculated yeast = for volume / regional wines.
fermentation temps: a) premium wines = 16-18 oC; b) inexpensive wines = 20oC
fermentation vessels: a) premium wines = barrels; b) inexpensive wines = stainless steel.
Maturation: 8-12 months in oak for premium wines.
NFO proportion: a) regional wine = little, typical no NFO; b) village level = 20-25%; c) 1er Cru = 35-50%; d) grand cru = 50% and above, up to 100%.
Size of the barrel: 228 L (piece); some producers use 500 - 600L (subtler impact of oak / oxidation).
Malolactic conversion: wine usually undergoes; for fresher styles, a proportion can be blocked.
Batonnage = it’s typical; periodicity varies from producer to producer (can reduce reductive flavours / add creamier texture).
White wines are more often filtered than reds.

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What is it?

When it started being reported?

Vintages affected?

Causes (7)

Problem remains? At what level?

Does it affect other styles of white wine?

wines reported to be showing advanced flavours & colours after relatively short time in bottle.
reports emerged in early 2000’s
vintages affected: from 1996 and subsequent.
multiple causes: a) change in vineyard practices (higher yields = different chemical composition); b) warmer vintages / later picking dates; c) over-clean musts (no crushing / pneumatic presses); d) overzealous batonnage (removing barrel bang too aften allows more O2 to ingress the barrel); e) lower levels of SO2 before bottling; f) quality of corks; g) change in treatment of corks.
problem remains, much lower levels as producers changed practices to minise risk.
not confined to white Burgundy.

What influences vinification techniques for Pinot Noir?

Harvesting method & sorting

Destemming x whole bunches

Cold soak?

Yeast: native x inoculated

Fermentation vessel: type and reasons (5)

Fermentation temp & post fermentation maceration

Free-run x pressed wine

NFO proportions

Maturation period

Fining & filtration: mid-priced x premium wines

requires careful vinification: delicate character, aromatic nature and low tannins.
harvesting: manually is typical for more premium wines.
sorting: all but the least expensive wines.
destemmed fruit: Henri Jayer favoured in the 80’s and lots of producers followed.
whole bunch: it’s becoming more common practice; it aids aeration of the must, add perfume, freshness & fine tannins (if stems are unripe = lower acidity & astringent tannins).
cold soak: from a few hours to a few days = PN is low in anthocyanins.
yeast: ambient yeast is common.
fermentation vessel: open top = faciliates pumping over / punching down (most common); cap needs breaking up because: a) to introduce O2 (yeast metabolism); b) avoid reduction / reductive sulful compouds (PN is prone to reduction); c) avoid acetic acid; d) extract colour, tannin & flavours; e) regulate temp in the must.
fermentation temp: 30oC.
post fermentation maceration: depends on the ripeness of the fruit / style made; longer periods for more concentrated wines (2-3 weeks).
presses: pneumatic (horizontal) or basket (vertical).
free-run & pressed wine are kept separate but can be blended together before bottling.
NFO proportions: follow white wine.
Maturation period: 12-20 months.
Malolactic conversion usually happens naturally.
Mid-priced wines can be fined / filtered whereas premium wines might not be.

What’s the vineyard classification based on?

Timeline

classification of terroir: based on soil, aspect and microclimate.
medieval monks began delineation, which was finished in 1930’s = all lieux-dits (named places) categorised in 4 tiers.

4 tier vineyard classification system

How many in each tier and examples

Production levels (by volume) in each tier.

regional or generic appellations = 7 (excluding Beaujolais and cremant); e.g. Borgogne AOC, Borgogne Cote d’Or.
communal / village appellations = 44 e.g. Meursault AOC, Gevrey-Chambertin AOC.
1er crus = 640 (+22 in Pouilly-Fuisse): Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques AOC, Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens AOC, Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts AOC.
grand crus = 33; e.g. Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru AOC, Richebourg Grand Cru AOC.
production levels: 1% grand cru; 47% village / 1er cru; 52% regional.

Addition of geograpical denominations (examples)

Napoleonic laws and influence on quality

many appellations can be followed by additional geographical denomination:
a) regional + geographical denomination: a) general area (Bourgogne Haut-Cotes de Beaune AOC); b) village (Bourgogne Chitry AOC).
b) village appellation + named 1er cru vineyard; e.g. Meursault Perrieres AOC.
c) Macon + village name; e.g. Macon Verze AOC.
d) grand cru + additional geographical denomination (referring to a climat); e.g. Chablis Grand Crus Valmur AOC or Corton-Les-Bressandes Grand Cru AOC.
the system isn’t a guarantee of quality because of the Napoleonic laws: ownership is very fragmented, therefore the range of quality depends on the skill of the domaine / reputation of the vineyard.

Classification x location on the slope:

Top (influencing factors)

Mid slope (influencing factors)

Lower slope (influencing factors)

Flat land (influencing factors)

in general, Cote d’Or classification reflects the location of the vineyards.
flat land beyond the top of the slopes: generic appellations such as Borgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaunes & Hautes Cotes de Nuits; reasons = a) higher altitude; b) lack of protection from prevailing weather; c) poorer sunlight interception; d) richer soils (encourage vigour).
mid slope: grand crus, with 1er crus around them; reasons =
a) optmum ripeness in cooler years; b) poor but adequate shallow soils; c) good drainage; d) protection from prevailing weather systems (and frost); e) good sunlight interception.
lowest part of the slope: typically village level; reasons =
a) richer soils; b) less well-drained soils; c) poorer sunlight interception; d) more risk of frost.
flat land at the bottom of the slope: generic appellation Bourgogne.

White x red wine production

Main appellations and their grand crus

Sought-after villages

specialises in Pinot Noir; small amounts of white wine produced.
hiphenated names celebrate the village’s grand crus; e.g. Gevrey-Chambertin is the home of Chambertin Grand Cru AOC.
Gevrey-Chambertin AOC: red wine only; largest village in Cotes de Nuits; grand crus = Charmes Chambertin, Chambertin Clos de Beze.
Morey-Sant-Denis AOC: almost exclusively red wines; grand crus inclued Clos de Tart and Clos de la Roche.
Chambole-Musigny AOC: red wines only; grand crus = Bonnes Mares and Musigny.
Vougeot AOC: tiny village, red & white; grand cru = Clos de Vougeot.
Vosne-Romanee AOC: red wine only; grand crus = La Tache and Romanee-Conti.
Nuits-Saint-George: almost exclusively red wine; grand crus = Les Saint-Georges and Les Vaucrains.
sought-after villages: Marsennay (red & rose) and Fixin (red only).

White x red production

Main appellations and their grand / 1er crus

Sought-after villages

most important area for white wine; red wine is also produced (1 grand cru for red).
Aloxe-Corton AOC, Pernand-Vergelesses AOC and Ladoix-Serrigny AOC: 3 villages, clustered around the hill of Corton; most famous vineyard (Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru) produces white only; Corton Grand Cru is mostly planted with Pinot Noir.
villages of Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Meursault and Saint-Aubin have no grand crus but important 1er Crus.
Beaune AOC: mainly red; 1er Crus = Les Clos de Mouches / Les Greves.
Pommard AOC: reds only; 1er Crus = Les Rugiens and Clos de Epeneaux.
Volnay AOC: reds only; 1er Crus = Clos de Chenes and Caillerets.
Meursault AOC: white only; 1er Crus = Les Perrieres and Genevrieres.
Puligny-Montrachet AOC: white only; grand crus = Chevalier-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet; it shares 2 with its neighbour: Les Montrachet and Batard-Montrachet.
Chassagne-Montrachet AOC: white and small amount of red; shares 2 grand crus with Puligny: Batard Montrachet and Le Montrachet.
St Aubin AOC: white only; 1er Cru = Sur le Sentier du Clou and En Remilly
sought-after villages: St Romain (mainly white); Auxey-Duresses (mainly red); Marsennay (mainly red).

White x red wine production

Grand crus x 1er crus

Principal appelations / main 1er crus.

produces more red than white.
no grand crus; village and 1er crus have risen in quality.
Bouzeron AOC: must be 100% Aligote (finest region for this grape).
Rully AOC: more white than red; important area for Cremant de Bourgogne.
Mercurey AOC: more red than white.
Givry AOC: more red than white; 40% 1er Cru.
Montagny AOC: white only; 2/3 1er Cru.

White x red wine production Labelling of inexpensive wines Appellations Pouilly Fusse x Macon-Villages

- produces mostly white wines. - inexpensive wines bottle as Bourgogne AOC. - appellations (rising in quality, decreasing in size): a) Macon AOC: mostly red or rose, a little white. b) Macon-Villages and Macon + named village: white wines only (Macon-Lugny Macon-Solutre). c) Named village appellations: Pouilly-Fuisse AOC, Saint-Veran AOC and Vire-Clesse AOC. - Pouilly-Fuisse maintains higher quality than Macon-Villages (grapes ripen more fully in the amphitheatre of Fuisse; has just been granted 22 1er Crus.

What influences differences in styles between villages / group of villages (natural & winemaking) Contrasting examples: Marsannay x Fixin Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuit-Saint-George & Pommard x Volnay & Chambole-Musigny Puligny-Montrachet x Meursault

- some of characteritics of individual villagges or group of villages come from natural factors. - Marsannay: north end of Cotes de Nuits; cooler, gentler slope, less protection from cold winds = light bodied, fresh wines (only appellationin Cote d'Or that produces white / red/ rose). - Fixin: similar, light bodied reds with very fresh red fruit. - Gevrey-Chambertin to Nuits-Saint-George: greater protection from the west; riper fruit, more alc, fuller bodied. - Volnay & Chambolle-Musigny: fruitier and more fragrant. - Pommard: fuller bodied. - Puligny-Montrachet: more floral and concentrated. - Meursault: full bodied and powerful. - In all appellations, winemaking decisions can affect style: e.g.: a) NFO, whether it's used or not and to what extent; b) how much batonnage has been used; c) for red wines, whole bunches.

Reasons for the complexity of the trade in Burgundy Examples of well-respected negociants Examples of changes in the business structure

- trade is complex; most of the trade went throuh large negociants (because of fragmentation - Napoleonic laws). - negociants would buy grapes, must or finished wine from growers. - examples of well-respected negociants: Albert Bichot, Louis Jadot, Bouchard Pere et Fils. - since 1980's there's been a move towards domaine bottled wine. - since 2000's there's been a rise of domaines acting as negociants; e.g. Dujac; and of negociants buy vineyards and becoming domaines: e.g. Albert Bichot.

Structure of the trade in Burgundy | (Organisations)

- growers: have vineyard holdings and sell grapes or unfinished wine to negociants. - domaines: have holdings, produce and sell their own wine under their label. - negociants: typically large business; buy grapes and/or wines, finish them and sell under their own label. - micro-negociants: smaller business; buy grapes from very good to top quality producers, make the wine / sell under own label. - co-operatives: less important in Cote d'Or; more predominant in Chablis (La Chablisienne), Maconnais (Cave de Lugny) and Cote Chalonnaise (lesser extent).

Complexity at domaine level: what and why. Reasons for significant rise in quality (3) Route to market Domestic x international markets Important international markets Product placement (4 chanels)

- domaine level: complexity of multiple producers with similar name, result of inheritance law in France (all children have the staturs of equal inheritors of an estate). - significant rise in quality: new many young producers who a) are better technically trained; b) have done vintages abroad; c) resulting more adaptable / open-minded approach to winemaking. - route to market: a) direct (cellar door sales); b) via negociant / coop through a distribution chain. - direct to consumer sales / final retails are on the rise. - 50% of the production is sold in France; 25% in EU, 25% outside EU. - main international markets (by value): USA, UK, Japan. - wines maybe sold: a) en primeur; b) specialist wine shops; c) fine dining; d) generic & village level = supermarkets & hospitality sectors.

Land prices Reasons for rise in prices in Burgundy (5) Brief comparison: Burgundy x Bordeaux

- land prices have increased recently due to: a) scarcety of supply (specially in sought-after vineyard areas); b) international business investment. - prices have also increased recently due to: a) high land prices; b) relatively small production; c) international demand; d) difference in volumes due to weather hazards (frost, hail); e) increased interest in the most expensive wines. - Burgundy x Bordeaux: total production is approx. 1/4 of Bordeaux; e.g: DRC produces 1/4 of the volume of Chateau Lafite Rothschild's Gran Vin.

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