France - Bordeaux Flashcards
1
Q
Quick overview: location, overall planting statistics and AOC wine production
A
- Southwestern France
- Traversed by the Garonne and Dordogne, which merge to form the Gironde estuary.
- Black grapes represent 90% of total plantings
- Production of AOC wines: 85% red, 10% white, 4% rose and 1% sweet.
2
Q
Three key historical factors
A
- late 17th, early 18th centuries: the dutch drained the marshland of Medoc
- by mid 18th Century, wines of Medoc (such as Margaux and Lafite) were well regarded internationally.
- this success lead to the emergence of brokers and courtiers, creating a system called La Place de Bordeaux (still in place today).
- 1855 Classification: created by the brokers for the Exposition Universelle de Paris, classifying the best producers of Medoc + Haut Brion (Graves) in 5 growths and Sauternes into 3.
- This classification remains almost unchanged today, with the exception of Mutton - Rothschild, which was added in the 1970’s.
3
Q
Overall climate in the Left Bank
A
- Moderate maritime climate (cooling influence from the Atlantice to the west)
- Best years: gentle heat throughouth the growing season, sufficient rainfall to promote growth / ripening and fine, relatively dry and warm autumns.
- Partially protected form the Atlantic by the Landes forest
- 3 slightly different mesoclimates:
a) Northern Medoc: less forest protection, more exposed to the atlantic, cooler climate
b) Eastern Medoc: closer to the Landes forest, cooler climate
c) Southern Medoc & Graves: better protected from the Atlantc, warmer climate.
4
Q
Overall climate - Right Bank
A
- Moderate maritime climate
- Martime influence is less pronounced here
- Best sites are located near the Gironde / Dordogne (frost protection)
5
Q
Overall challenges caused by climate (rainfall, heat, frost and hail)
A
- Rainfall: variable, marked variation from year to year; excessive rainfall can cause issues:
a) rat flowering: poor fruit set
b) throughout the season: increased disease pressure
c) following veraison: unripe fruit & fungal diseases
d) harvest: dilute flavour, risk of botrytis. - climate change: excessive heat can lead to wines being more alcoholic, less acidity and lacking in balance.
- Frost: can be an issue from time to time; best sites in the Medoc are located close to the Gironde (moderating influence); sites located a mile or two to the West can be devasted.
- Hail (once sporadic) has been more widespread.
6
Q
Soil types and their influence on vinegrowing
A
- in Medoc & Graves: deposits of gravel and stony soils carried to the region by floodwaters from the Pyrenees and Massif Centrale thousands of years ago.
- Deposits formed gravel mounds, never very high (up to 32 m ASL);
- Depending on the origin, the gravel is mixed with clay and sand.
- Very well drained, which is helpful: the region is prone to showers and storms; in extremely hot years, this can be an issue: drought stress.
- Heat retention: pebbles and stones will absorb heat during the day, releasing it back to the vineyard at night.
- There are also pockets of clay, especially in Saint-Estephe
7
Q
Soil type and variatons
A
- far more clay content in the soil here
- patches of gravel can also be found here
- best wines come from vineyards planted on the limestone plateau or the gravel section that borders Pomerol, aka, combination of clay / limestone or clay / gravel.
8
Q
Budding & ripening, advantages, disadvantages and flavour characteristics
A
- early budding / mid ripening
- advantages: can ripe fully and be harvested before the autumn rain; can ripen fully in cooler years; water-holding capacity of clay enables it to produce the large berry size typical of this variety.
- disadvantage: early budding = vulnerable to spring frosts; susceptible to coulure, drought and botrytis bunch rot; in hot years can reach higher potential alc level they either of the Cabernets.
- med to pronounced intensity fruit; cooler years: stawberry, red plum, herbaceous notes; warmer years: black plum, cooked blackberry in warmer years; med tannins and med to high alcohol.
9
Q
Budding & ripening, advantages, disadvantages and flavour characteristics
A
- late budding / late ripening
- advantages: less exposed to spring frosts (late budding), produces high-quality, long-lived wines (in the right soil / mesoclimate); brings structural elements to a blend (tannins, acidity and alcohol).
- disadvantages: prone to fungal diseases (powdery mildew); prone to trunk diseases (Eutypa and Esca); vulnerable to autumn rains; in cooler years: struggles to ripen (high acid, unripe tannins, little fuitness and herbaceous tones).
- pronounced intensity: violet, blackcurrant, black cherry, menthol or herbaceous aromas, med alc, high acid and tannins.
10
Q
Budding & ripening, advantages, disadvantages and flavour characteristics
A
- early budding / mid ripening
- advantages: can be harvested before autumn rains; it’s winter hardy.
- disadvantages: prone to coulure; it’s very vigorous (dense canopy); if unripe, can taste excessively leafy.
- med to pronounced intensity; red fruit (redcurrant, raspberry), floral (violet) and can have leafy aromas; high acid, medium tannnins, medium body, medium alcohol.
11
Q
Budding & ripening, advantages, disadvantages and flavour characteristics
A
- early budding / mid ripening.
- advantages: can be harvested before autuumn rain; afinity to oak maturation and can produce wines with relatively long agebility.
- disadvantages: vulnerable to coulure and early spring frosts, susceptible to fungal diseases (mildews) in more humid climates; vigorous.
- medium to pronounced intensity, violet, red and black plum, medium to medium (+) acidity, medium (+) to high tannins.
12
Q
Budding & ripening, advantages, disadvantages and flavour characteristics
A
- early budding / late ripening
- advantages: resistant to rot, ‘seasoning’ to the Bordeaux blend due to its powerfully aromatic and structural contribuition.
- disadvantages: prone to spring frosts; fails to ripen in cool years and susceptible to rain around harvest.
- deep coloured, tannic and spicy notes, med (+) to high alc, med - med (+) acitiy.
13
Q
Budding & ripening, advantages, disadvantages and flavour characteristics
A
- early budding / mid ripening
- advantages: susceptible to noble rot (in the right conditions); less vulnerable to spring frosts, to rain during harvest and it’s not disease prone; afinity with oak.
- disadvantage: grey rot (in the wrong conditions); vigorous; not very aromatic.
- low intensity of apple, lemon; in botrytis affected grapes, honey and dried fruit (lemon, peach); waxy texture; vanilla and sweet spices from oak; develops honeyed and toast notes with age.
14
Q
Budding & ripening, advantages, disadvantages and flavour characteristics
A
- late budding / early ripening
- advantages: can ripen in cool climates / region; less affected by early spring frosts; can be harvested before autuumn rain; blends well with Semillon and Muscadelle (Bordeaux); prone to noble rot (in the right conditions).
- disadvantages: very vigorous; prone to powdery mildew, botrytis bunch rot; prone to trunk diseases (Esca); prone to green pepper, grassy notes if unripe.
- pronounced intensity; cooler areas / vintages: herbaceous, grass, bell pepper, asparagus, gooseberry, grapefruit and wet stone; warmer areas: tropical (passion fruit).
15
Q
Planting density (pro & con); training in pruning (Left x Righ Banks); canopy management; pests & diseases management; harvesting (green-harvest).
A
- top vineyards: high density, with vines planted 1x1m; making better use of expensive land.
- close planting adds to the cost: more plants and more trellising, specialist over-the-row tractors, more time for vine training, ploughing and spraying.
- vineyards in less prestigious appellations use lower density planting.
- Left Bank: double Guyot training is more common (head-trained, replacement cane-pruned).
- Right Bank: single Guyot is more common.
- Canopy management: in this moderate, damp climate, it’s very important to reduced athe risk of mildews and botrytis bunch rot; leaf removal (improve aeration, deter rot and expose the fruit to UV light).
- Eutypa dieback and Esca have become major problems; countered by soft pruning.
- Flavescence doree (caused by leafhoppers) can be contained by the use of insecticides (not suitable for organic / biodynamic production).
- Bunch-thining (green harvest): used to be popular 20 years ago; not so much now - it can unbalance the vine; pruning short in winter can solve the problem.
- Harvest: manual harvest for the bigger estates by large teams; smaller estates will harvest by machine due to their distance from Bordeaux city and for financial reasons.
16
Q
Grape sorting and vinification overview
A
- levels of sorting vary according to the value of wine / vintage
- inexpensive wines: grapes not routinely sorted.
- high quality wines: first sorted at harvest by hand whilest harvesting or on a moving / vibrating belt or by optical sorting.
- high quality wines: plot by plot harvesting (optimal ripeness) and vinifying them separetely.
- this requires more vessels in the winery, adding to the cost.
17
Q
Fermentation (cap management, temps and maceration times)
Free run x press wine
Ageing (simple x top wines)
Blending (2 different approaches)
A
- fermentation in closed vats, with pump-overs.
- early drinking wines: mid-range fermentation temp, short post-fermentation maceration (5-7days) = preserve primary aromas / extract less tannins.
- wines for ageing: mid-range to warm temp, longer maceration (14-30 days); maceration times are reduced in poor vintages / not fully ripe grapes.
- free-run & press wines are aged separately in 225 L barrels.
- Malo conversation takes place in barrels; top estates will inoculate to ensure quick completion before en primeur.
- simple wines: aged in neutral vessels (stainless steel, concrete or large vats; oak chips may be added.
- premium wines are aged in French oak, with a mix of new and 1yo; top estates may use up to 100 NFO; 18-24 months
- 1st approach to blending: done over winter for 2 reasons; a) to be ready for en primeur; b) to deselect the wines for 2nd and 3rd labels.
- 2nd approach to blending: done before bottling to assess how the different varieties evolved.
18
Q
Styles, varieties and methods
A
- 2 styes: traditional Clairet and lighter coloured rose.
- Main varieties: Merlot and Cab Sav.
- Saignee: here the wine is a by product (juice drawn off to concentrate the must for red wines).
- Direct press: lighter coloured roses.
19
Q
Pressing (2 options)
Fermentation / ageing
(inexpensive x mid-priced x premium wines)
A
- 2 options for pressing: a) direct pressing on arrival (freshness); b) maceration for up to 24h on skin (aromatic and phenolic complexity); grapes need to be healthy for the latter.
- inexpensive wines: cool fermentation, stainless steel tanks, aged for a few months.
- mid-priced wines: often kept on lees for 6-12 months for more weight / complexity.
- premium wines: fermented / aged in barriques (proportion of NFO); many producers block MLF; battonage may be done, vintage dependant.
- contemporary style influence by Andre Lurton & Dubordieu: increase on SB, skin contact, smaller proportion of NFO.
20
Q
Yield levels, harvesting and level of botrytis on the grapes
A
- yields are kept low: often 1/3 of those for still wines (grape with high level of sugar).
- pruning to a low number of buds / removal of unhealthy grapes.
- 25hL/ha is the max permitted; below 10hL/ha is common.
- pickers need to be trained to identify noble rot x grey rot
- harvest happens in several picks, sometimes 10-12.
- level of botrytis depends on: a) correct conditions (vintage variation); b) where the estates are; c) willingness to wait for the best time (risking partial or total crop loss); d) willingness to pay for several passes.
21
Q
Fermentation vessels (less prestigious x top quality)
Ageing (less prestigious x top quality)
Amount of NFO used
A
- once picked, grape are handled as for dry white wine: fermented in stainless steel, concrete or barrels.
- wines are aged for varying periods in any of those.
- less prestigious appellations: often unoaked / release 1 year after harvest.
- top quality wines are fermented / aged in barrels (high proportion of NFO); ageing for 18-36 months (gentle oxidation adds complexity)
- amount of NFO varies from 30-50%, up to 100% (Yquem)
22
Q
Yields (AOC x Sup)
General characteristics (AOC x Sup)
Overall styles (red & white)
Quality level
Price
A
Bordeaux AOC:
- vast regional appl (red, white & rose)
- yields (67, 65 & 62 hL/ha respectively)
- results in some wines with low flavour concentration
Bordeaux Superieur AOC:
- red wines
- 59 hL/ha
- aged for at least 10 months
- more concentrated
- the 2 appl account for 50% of the wine produced.
Overall styles:
- red (from merlot): med intensity of red fruit, high acid, med(+) tannins, med body & alc.
- white (pred Sav Blanc): med intensity of gooseberry and lemon, med body, high acid, med alc
- most wines: acceptable - good quality, inexpensive to mid-priced.
23
Q
Location
Varieties planted
Yield
Quality & price levels
A
- covers northern end of the area
- cultivation: equal proportions of Cab Sav & Merlot
- red wine only
- max yield: 55 hL/ha
- as this is a large area, wines come in a wide range of qualify and price level.
24
Q
Location
Communes
Overall climatic / geographic influence
Varieties planted
Style
A
- covers the area close to Bordeaux city
- includes the 4 famous communes of St Estephe, Pauillac, Margaux and St Julien.
- influenced by the Gironde (moderating influence).
- high proportion of gravel soils
- 50% Cab Sav, 44% Merlot
- style: pronounced blackcurrant, green bell pepper (especially in cool vintages), red plum, vanilla and cedar oak notes; med to high alc, high tannins and med(+) body; very good - outstanding, premium - super premium priced.
25
Location
Varieties planted
Style
Quality classifications (classified growths, Cru Bourgeois)
- most northerly / coolest of the 4 prestigious communes
- 40% Merlot (highest of the 4), on clay soils away from the estuary.
- 50% Cab Sav, planted on gravel close to the estuary.
- has a reputation for rustic wines that need long ageing.
- Softer wines are available (warmer gravel soils or with a significant proportion of Merlot).
- no first growths; it has second growths and a large number of Cru Bourgeois.
26
Location
Varieties planted
Style
Quality classifications (1st growths, cru classe wines)
- south of Saint-Estephe.
- high proportion of Cab Sav (62%).
- Cab Sav often planted on gravel banks near the estuary.
- Cab Sav is major part of the blends (70%).
- very structured wines (high tannins / acid), high concentration and great longevity.
- has 3 of the 5 1st growths and the highest proportion of cru classe (85%) of the production.
27
Location
Main variety planted
General typicity
Quality classifications (1st and 2nd growths)
Style
- south of Pauillac AOC
- high proportion of Cab Sav planted
- homogenous gravely soils
- stylistically, it's mid-way point between the powerful structure of Pauillac and finesse of Margaux.
- no 1st growths, 5 2nd growths.
28
Location
Grape varieties planted
Difference in growing conditions
Differences (and challenge) in soil composition
Style
- the most southerly of the 4 famous communes.
- Slightly more Merlot than Cab Sav planted here.
- Grapes ripen earlier here: a few days earlier than Pauillac an 7-10 days earlier than northern Medoc.
- stony, gravely soils.
- due to the higher clay proportion in the soils, some area require drainage.
- wines are more perfumed with silky tannins.
29
Location
General overview
Quality & price level
- red wines only.
- further from the moderating influence of the river.
- less gravel in the soils.
- can release wines for consumption earlier.
- good to very good in quality.
- mid-priced to premium.
30
Location
Wine production statistics
Yields
Quality and price levels
- from the city of Bordeaux southwards.
- 85% red wines.
- 58 hL/ha for reds, 55 hL/ha for whites.
- Graves Superieures AOC: late picked / botrytis-affected sweet wines only; higher yields than Sauternes (40 hL/ha).
- acceptable to good in quality, inexpensive to mid-priced.
31
Location
Soil & cliamte
Varieties planted
Red x white wine production
Quality classification (1855, cru classe)
Style (white & red)
Quality & price levels
- subregion withing Graves AOC.
- includes some of the southern suburbs of Bordeaux.
- gravel soils and moderate influence from the Garonne (similar to the top communes of Medoc).
- 80% red, 20% white.
- One 1st growth from 1855 and all the cru classes from Graves classification.
- Reputation for producing the best white wines of Bordeaux (often barrel feremented & barrel aged).
- white wine style: typically blend of Sav B. and Semillon, pronounced aromas of gooseberry, lemon and grapefruit with vanilla, clove and oak notes, med(+) body, med(+) to high acid, med to high alc.
- very good to outstanding.
- premium to super-premium in price.
- red wines: simillar in style, price and quality to the prestigous communes of the Medoc.
32
Location, permitted style and plantings
Climatic / geographic influences
Size of production
Labelling (Sauternes x Barsac)
Max yield
Quality & price levels
Style & challenge
Quality classification
- both appellations are located in the southern part of Graves.
- sweet, typically botrytis-affected wines.
- plantings: Semillon (80%), Sav Blanc and tiny amounts of Muscadelle.
- cold Ciron river meets the warm Garone river, creating morning fogs, which burn off by the middle of the day.
- Sauternes: largest sweet wine appellation in Bordeaux (50% of total production).
- wines from Barsac can be labelled as both.
- max yield: 25 hL/ha (much lower in practice)
- style: pronounced aromas of citrus peel, honey, tropical (mango), quince, orange marmalade, vanilla, oak tones; full bodied, high alc, med to med(+) acidity, sweet finish.
- very good to outstanding.
- mid-priced to super premium.
- sales have been in decline for the last 30 years; producers started releasing dry white wines in response.
- 3 tiers: 1er Cru Superieur (d'Yquem), 1st growth (ex Chateau Climens) and 2nd growth (ex Chateau de Myrat)
33
Location
Size of the appellations
Styles of wine produced
Quality & price levels
- located between the Girond and Dordogne rivers.
- second largest appellation in terms of ha.
- white wines only.
- reds produced here are bottle as Bordeaux or Bordeaux Superieur).
- acceptable to good in quality.
- inexpensive to mid-priced.
34
Location
Area covered by both AOC's
Category of wine produced
Varieties planted
Difference between St Emilion & St Emilion Grand Cru (yields, minimum ageing)
Quality & price levels
Style
- located on the right bank of the Dordogne.
- both appellations cover the same area.
- red wines only.
- 60% Merlot, followed by Cab Franc and Cab Sav.
- Grand Cru has lower yields (46 hL/ha x 53 hL/ha) and longer minimum maturation (20 x 6 months) than Saint-Emilion.
- great range of quality: from early drinking to the top grand cru Classe wines (comparable quality with 1st growths).
- style (premium wines): pronounced red & black plum, noticeable vanilla and clove new oak character, full body, high alc, med(+) to high tannins, med(+) to high acid.
- St Emilion Grand Cru top chateaus: Cheval Blanc, Angelus, Figeac, Pavie
35
Location
Size of appellation
Classification
Size of estates compared to Left Bank
Quality & price levels
Style
Top Chateau
- small & very prestigious appellation.
- left bank of the Dordogne, close to Libourne.
- red wines only.
- 80% Merlot, followed by Cab Franc and small amounts of Cab Sav.
- this appellation has no classification.
- estates are small (Petrus 12ha x 1st Growths 80-100ha), with small production, commanding high prices.
- top properties: some of the highest prices in the world.
- very good to outstanding in quality.
- premium to super-premium in price.
- similar in style to the top St Emilion Grand Cru Classe.
- top chateaus: Petrus, Lafleur, Le Pin, L'Evangile.
36
Location
Styles of wine produced
Grape varieties
Named communes
Difference between generic CDB and named CDB
- located in the Right Bank of the Dordogne and Gironde, east of Libourne, east of Blaye and in Entre-deux-Mers.
- created in 2009 for a group of appellations.
- red and white wines.
- Merlot and Sav Blanc dominant.
- communes can append their names: Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux (northern part), Cadillac, Castillon & Francs (southwest east of Libourne respectively).
- red wines: lower yield for named communes (52 hL/ha x 55 hL/ha).
37
Location
Varieties planted
(focus on different black variety)
Style, quality & price levels
- located on the Right Bank of Gironde, opposite Pessac-Leognan.
- similar to Cotes de Bordeux.
- Merlot is the dominant variety, with 10% Malbec planted (highest proportion of any Bordeaux appellation).
- similar in style, price and quality to Medoc AOC.
38
Brief historical background
Location
Size of the classification
Structure
Periodicity
Size of production
- created by the negociants in 1855 based on price.
- top 60 properties in the Medoc, plus Graves and Sauternes.
- ranked from 1st to 5th growths.
- minimal changes since 1855 (ex: elevation of Chateau Mouton Rothschild to 1st growth in 1973).
- continue to affect prices paid.
- Cru classe wines represent 1/4 of production.
39
Location
Size of the classification
Structure
Periodicity
- created in 1959.
- 16 classified chateaux (red, white or both).
- all chateaux located in Pessac-Leognan.
- simple list, no subdivisions.
- this classification has not been reviewed.
40
Location
Structure and restrictions
Periodicity
Controversies involving this classification.
- Right Bank.
- only applies to some wines within St-Emilion Grand Cru AOC.
- created in 1955.
- revised every 10 years
- 3 tiers: 1er Grand Cru A, 1er Grand Cru B, Grand Cru Classe.
- reputation dented by lawsuits and disputes.
- the use of the term "Grand Cru" in the name of the appellation is regarded by many as misleading.
41
Location
Periodicity
Structure
- any property in the Medoc can apply.
- created in 1932.
- below Cru Classe, but still of superior quality.
- in 2010: awarded annually to the wine rather than chateau.
- in 2018: awarded to the chateaux; 3 tiers of quality: Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Superieur and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.
42
Size of the industry
Changes in ownership
Biggest producing AOC's (by volume)
Points system
- 7000 estates, called chateaux.
- the number of estates is shrinking as smaller producers are acquired by bigger neighbours.
- average estate size: 19 ha.
- most of production is of Bordeaux, Bordeaux Superieur and Bordeaux Rose (almost 50% by volume), mostly located in Entre-deux-Mers and Right Bank.
- points systems, starting with R. Parker and adopted by other wine critics, has become a vital tool for selling wine.
43
Total value in sales
International x Domestic markets
Principal international markets
Contrasting markets in Bordeaux
- total value in sales: + 4 billion euros
- 56% sold in France (by volume), with 48% sold in supermarkets.
- 44% sold internationally (by volume).
- Principal markets: Hong Kong, China, US and UK.
- 2 very contrasting markets in Bordeaux: a) La Place de Bordeaux (sells premium and top estates), with most wine sold during en primeur campaigns; b) the majority of wines, which are inexpensive and has struggled to raise prices in recent years, because of low demand in France and international competition from other countries (Chile, Australia).
44
Which wines are sold through La Place
Structure of La Place
- system to handle wine sales of top and premium chateaux.
- Producer sells to a negociant on allocation; this relationship is managed by a courtier, who charges 2% fee.
- negociant sells to wholesaler, agent, importer; charges 15% fee.
- from wholesalers, agents, importers, etc the wine is sold to retailers and then sold to final consumers.
45
What's sold en primeur & when
Aim of the campaign
Structure of the campaign
Advantages & disadvantages for the estates
Advantages & disadvantages for the customers
Current debate on the system and its repercussions
- classed growths high quality wines are mostly sold en primeur.
- wines sold in the spring following harvest as futures, aka, paper transactions: wine is sold 12 to 18 months before it's bottled.
- aim: consumers can secure rare wines at a lower price than they'd be sold in fine wine shops.
- structure: campaign begins in April; chateaux provide barrel samples to approx 5-6,000 wine professionals for assessment; prices published in May / June; 1st tranche is put up for sale to gauge the market; rest is sold in subsequent tranches (price goes up with each tranche).
- advantages for the estates: ability to test the market, early payment and return on investment.
- disadvantages for the estates: potentially selling at a lower price than in the bottled wine; financial mismanagement or losses by negociants that could affect an estate's reputation.
- advantages for the customer: ability to secure rare-to-find wines at lower prices (theoretically), option to keep or trade sought-after wines.
- disadvantages for the customer: wines tasted en primeur may not reflect the finished wine; neciants may go out of business before the wine arrives; prices may fall due to economic conditions.
- since 2010 there has been a continued debate on whether the system works; 2000's saw a boom (due to increased interest from China); estate owners became used to selling their wines at a higher price each vintage (even in 2011), which lead to a drop in price and en primeur investors losing money;
- Ch. Latour decided to stop selling wines en primeur; many chateaux reduced the amount of wines sold this way; smaller chateaux need the money from en primeur sales
