France Flashcards
Who influenced Eleni & Edouard Vocoret’s winemaking?
Edouard’s influence: Daniel Barraud
Eleni’s influence: Vincent Dauvissat (Staged under Weingut Jurstritsch in Austria)
What are the 4 bottlings of Vocoret Chablis?
Les Pargues
Boucheran
Bas de Chapelot
1er Cru Butteaux
Chablis Les Pargues - Vocoret
Eleni and Edouard’s holdings in Les Pargues are 0.40 hectare. Les Pargues is located in the next valley over from the Premier Cru Montmains but still has the same expositions. The soil is Kimmeridgian (middle Jurassic), predominantly argilo-calcaire. The vines are 30 years old.
(First vintage produced was 2017.)
Chablis Boucheran - Vocoret
Boucheran is made from a 0.89 hectare located between two premier crus, Vaillons and Montmains. The soil is Kimmeridgian (middle Jurassic) with a high proportion of white clay in the soil. The vines are 35 years old.
(First vintage produced was 2017.)
Chablis Bas de Chapelot - Vocoret
Bas de Chapelot comes from a 3.2 hectare parcel just below Montée de Tonnerre. It is the Vocoret’s only parcel on the right side of the river bank. The soil is deep, clay and limestone, and Kimmeridgian (middle Jurassic). The vines are now 40 years old vines and due to their proximity to the riverbed are very exposed to frost.
(First vintage produced was 2014.)
Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux
Eleni and Edouard’s holdings in the premier cru Butteaux are 0.32 hectare. The soil is Kimmeridgian (Upper Jurassic), pre-dominantly argilo-calcaire. The vines are 60 years old and all selection massale.
(First vintage produced was 2014.)
Vocoret winemaking
The winemaking is consistent across all the wines. Alcoholic and malolatic fermentation is done in stainless steel with natural yeast (4 months). The wines are then aged for one year in old barrels. Before bottling the wines are put back in tank for an assemblage of one or two months.
They prefer a long aging. ~ 18 months before bottling.
What is the story of Eleni & Edouard Vocoret?
Edouard and Eleni met while apprenticing in New Zealand. They married and returned to Chablis to take over a small piece of Edouard’s family domaine, Domaine Vocoret & Fils.
Their primary focus with their 3.3 hectare inheritance was farming. The first couple of vintages were sold in bulk shortly after harvest as they converted the vineyards to lutte raisonnée and hand harvesting. 2013 was their first release and they wasted no time showing off their vision of pure and terroir driven Chablis.
Three Chablis producers in portfolio
Eleni & Edouard Vocoret
Domaine Moreau-Naudet
Vincent Mothe
Bottlings of Moreau-Naudet (8)
Petit Chablis (2.5 ha) Chablis AOC (10 ha) Chablis Vieilles Vignes 'Les Pargues' (1 ha) Chablis 1er Cru Forets (1.7 ha) Chablis 1er Cru Montmains (0.65 ha) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons (1.7 ha) Chablis 1er Cru 'Montee de Tonnere' (1 ha) Chablis Grand Cru Valmur (0.6 ha)
Winemaking approach at Moreau-Naudet
While there is far from a recipe in the cellar, Domaine Moreau-Naudet’s premier crus and single grand cru wine follow a very consistent fermentation and aging regimen. Fermentation is always with indigenous yeast, followed by a long maceration on lees. The wine is then aged for an average of 18 months on lees in a combination of stainless steel and 600-liter French oak barrels of which only 20% is new. (Most of the wine is aged in stainless steel, with around 2/3 in steel and 1/3 in oak.)
Petit Chablis - Moreau-Naudet
Despite coming from a 2.5 hectare parcel of young vines, this wine is made with the same level of care that the rest of the wines are. Contrary to the profile of most Petit Chablis, yields are lower than average, fermentation is with indigenous yeast, and it is harvested by hand. The wine is aged for nine months in stainless steel before bottling.
Chablis AOC - Moreau Naudet
14 - 20 month aging on fine lees. There is no oak for the AOC Chablis, it is entirely stainless steel.
20 - 60 year old vines.
The vineyards are spread across two villages - Préhy and Courgis. One is predominantly limestone and the other is predominantly clay.
Chablis Vieilles Vignes ‘Les Pargues’ - Moreau-Naudet
Les Pargues is a one hectare lieu dit which has the same exposition as Vaillons and Montmains, so despite being just a village site, it has the character of a premier cru. The vines are approximately 70 years old further adding to the intensity and potential of the site. Les Pargues is aged more in line with the premier crus in Moreau Naudet’s cellar, which is to say a significant percentage of the final blend was aged in old barrels.
Chablis 1er Cru Forets - Moreau-Naudet
The domaine’s holdings in Forets is made up of two parcels, totaling just under 2 hectares. The older parcel is of 60 year old vines and is right next to Vincent Dauvissat’s holdings. The second is made up of younger vines (25 years old) and is next door to Raveneau’s parcel of Forets. Forets identity among the geologically diverse premier crus in Chablis is one of notable power and intensity. It’s soil is made up of a variety of different clays and decomposed rock over limestone which together with a southeastern exposure create a warm microclimate.
Chablis 1er Cru Montmains - Moreau-Naudet
Their parcel of Montmains is small, just 0.65 hectare, and made up of on average 55 year old vines planted in a soil rich in blue clay (bleu d’argile). Montmains is on the opposite flank of the valley to Vaillons.
Montmains sees less oak. Only about 10%, whereas the rest see about 30%. She wants to preserve tension in Montmains because she sees it has being inherently large in body.
Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons - Moreau-Naudet
Moreau-Naudet’s holdings in Vaillons are around 1.7 hectares of 35-50 year old vines. Fermentation is, as always, with natural yeast with up to a three month maceration on lees.
Chablis 1er Cru ‘Montee de Tonnere’ - Moreau-Naudet
From a one-hectare parcel of 50-year-old vines within the lieu-dit Chapelot, Moreau-Naudet’s Montée de Tonnerre is consistently their most mineral driven wine. The soils are sandy with a rocky topsoil and rich in Kimmeridgian limestone
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
Moreau-Naudet’s sole Grand Cru Chablis comes from just over half a hectare of 35 year old vines with a fully southern exposure.
Domaine Moreau-Naudet Story
We met Stéphane Moreau a couple of years ago through a good friend and the wines immediately moved us. Soon after the wines arrived stateside, they quickly became some of the most popular wines in our portfolio. Subsequent visits to the estate showed us how dedicated Stéphane was in crafting great expressions of some of the best sites in Chablis.
Stéphane passed away in September 2016 at far too young of an age. The tragedy affected all of us deeply. After a period of uncertainty, the family and Stéphane’s assistant winemaker voiced a strong commitment to continuing Stéphane’s vision. 2015 was the last vintage Stéphane made
Stéphane Moreau is not related to the other Moreaus in Chablis
Chablis - Vincent Mothe
Coming from three different parcels: Champréaux, Vaulardy, and Usage, Vincent Mothe’s village Chablis is greater than the sum of its parts:
Champréaux: 4 hectares of 45-year-old south-facing vines. Located on a gentle slope of fine clay and calcareous ‘tufa’, formed by precipitated carbonate minerals. Provides intense minerality and freshness.
Vaulardy: 2 hectares of 20-year-old southeast-facing vines. Located on a plateau with a high limestone component, abundant with small limestone rocks, resulting in a mineral, tense, and chiseled expression to the wine.
Usage: 1 hectare of 15-year-old east-facing vines. Located on a plateau with rich, red clay soils, offering roundness and structure.
The Chablis AOC, like the rest of the wines in Vincent’s cellar, is fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel. Farming at the domaine is lutte raisonnée
Vincent Mothe Story
Guy Mothe built up his successful domaine in Fontenay-pres-Chablis by starting with a small parcel he inherited and acquiring additional small parcels of land that came up for sale over the years. Today the domaine is run by Guy`s son, Vincent, and the style remains unchanged. Vincent’s take on Chablis is always unoaked with an emphasis on minerality and purity.
“It is all simplicity and no fuss. The Mothes are a farming as well as a viticultural family, also raise cattle, have wheat and other crops. The viticulture is sustainable, and the vinification lucid and simple with a beautifully organized and very modern winery. They have close to thirty hectares of vines; vinify their parcels of Chablis villages to the taste of their customers. The Chablis is raised in impeccable stainless steel tanks – cleanliness in the winery is very important for this Domaine. The winery is kept at a cool temperature. Russell and I met them at a Beaune wine and cheese event and were delighted with the clarity of the appellations.” — BECKY WASSERMAN
Anne-Sophie Dubois Story
Anne-Sophie Dubois is a part of a young generation of vignerons redefining the identity of Beaujolais. Born and raised in Champagne, she caught the wine bug early and spent her formative years learning the ropes in Burgundy. (Far from the usual story of winemakers in Beaujolais.)
The economics of vineyard ownership in France have made many regions unapproachable for a young vigneron without a considerable amount of wealth. Beaujolais is one of the few where that is not yet the case. Anne-Sophie fell in love with Gamay and decided that Fleurie was where she wanted to call home. Her domaine is composed of eight hectares in the heart of Fleurie that are now organically farmed. Most of her plots are already of considerable age, her oldest are 60+ years old.
If Fleurie has provided Anne-Sophie a canvas of old vines and granitic soils, she brings to the table a strong commitment to working the soil, staying out of the way in the winery, and a style that favors a Burgundian approach to vinification. “Dubois makes some of the most soulful, Burgundy-like versions of Beaujolais that I’ve encountered…a Fleurie with a bit of fealty to the Cote d’Or.” — JON BONNE, PUNCHDRINK.COM
4 Beaujolais Producers in Portfolio
Anne-Sophie Dubois
Domaine Mee Godard
Sébastien Congretel
Domaine Chapel