Formation and Texture Foundations Flashcards
Pre Dry Directional Method
3 Segments with segment one starting at the nape of the neck
Cuticle
colorless translucent scale. Protective cover and protects from injury and moisture loss.
Cortex
85% of the hairs weight. The strongest part of the hair. Consists of numerous twisting fibers of keratin protein. Melanin and keratin protein are found. Partially responsible for the hairs texture and formation
Medulla
Composed of mostly soft keratin. The innermost part of the hair shaft. IF PRESENT may not run through the entire hair fiber and have big void pockets. Function is unknown.
5 Atoms found in hair
Carbon, Oxygen, Hydrogen, Nitrogen and Sulfur
These 5 Atoms make up ________________
and Amino Acid C O H N S (the S is only found in the cysteine amino acid)
Essential Amino Acids
Taken in by Food/Vitamins
Nonessential Amino Acids
Body creates
Polypeptide chains
When multiple peptide bonds are linked together, it creates a polypeptide chain
Helix Coils
Created when polypeptide chains link together with side bonds
Hydrogen Bond
occurs between oxygen and hydrogen molecules
Salt Bond
formed when the positive end of an amino acid chain links the negative end of an amino acid
Disulfide Bond
Bonds link together by two sulfur atoms that are attached to cysteine amino acid
Microfibril
Formed when 7-9 helix coils twist and bind together
Macrofibril
Hundreds of microfibrils are cemented into irregular fibrous bundles
Cortical Cells
Formed from Macro fibril
What determines the diameter of the hair?
The number of helix coils, micro fibrils, macro fibrils and fibrils
Protein
65-95% of the hair and gives the hair strength to stretch and a combination of protein and moisture gives elasticity
Lipids
Acts like glue holding protein together
Carbohydrates
Provide flexibility
Minerals
Provides the hair w/ added strength
Melanin
Makes up 1% of the hair and gives it color
Eumelanin
Found in darker levels containing iron and turns red when oxidized
Pheomelanin
Found in lighter levels contains copper and turns orange when oxidized
PH Scale
Potential Hydrogen (PH) Scale indicates the amount of hydrogen ions (H+) and hydroxide ions (H-) in a solution (Anything that contains water will fall somewhere on the PH scale
Anion
Negative ion
Cation
Positive Ion
As the Ph increase, the amount of ________ are removed, leaving _________
Positive ions; Negative ions
Hydrogen Ions
Acidic positive ions H +
Hydroxide ions
Alkaline Negative ions OH-
The negative ions rep and push against each other, opening and swelling the ___________
Cuticle
Three Formulas of PM Permanent Waves
Alkaline, Exothermic, Acid
Alkaline
Resistant, normal, gray and white hair; true to rod size curl; ideal when a strong wave/close ended curl is wanted; curl eval: rod size and minimal separation
Exothermic
Resistant, normal and fine hair; creates firm, long lasting conditioned curl; Processes hair at a neutral ph of 7
Acid
Colored and 50 % highlighted hair; prevents damage and discoloration; Gentle creates a softer curl/body; curl eval: rod size and max separation; processing time 10-15 min
End Wrap Techniques
Flat, Pinch and Twist
Flat
Hair is evenly distributed across end paper. The end technique creates an even curl from the bae to the ends
Pinch
Hair is gathered at the ends and placed in end paper. This technique softens the ends of the hair, creating inconsistency from base to ends
Twist
Hair is gathered and spun 360 degrees. This end technique creates inconsistency in the curl from base to ends
What do we look for in each curl eval?
Alkaline: rod size ad minimal separation; Acid: rod size with play and max separation; Exothermic: Rod size and separation
Perm SMA
Perm rods, rat tail comb, water bottle, cotton, end paper, clips, detangling comb, Blow dryer + diffusers, Gloves, timer, chemicals cape, towels, PM products, On Demand product knowledge and Skill cards
What does a consultation consist of?
What the guest would like? Desired end result? budget? commitment? Long term hair goals? Lifestyle?
Curl Evaluation
Good results, Under processed, Over processed, porous ends, improper winding
Formation
Identified by number 1. Straight 2. Wavy 3. Curly 4. Coily
Texture
Identified by a letter A. Fine B. Medium C. Coarse
Body Position for diffusing
Stand behind the panel on your dominant side through panel three and in front of the panel on your non dominant side. Your body position naturally transitions.
Purpose of Pre Dry
Supports control and movement over various formations. Great for any formation and length of hair. Removes moisture and speeds up drying time.
