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exam Flashcards

1
Q

bouclé/loop yarn

A

curl, cone, loop, binder

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2
Q

nub/spot/knot yarn

A

small knots/nubs, effect ply twisted many times in the same spot

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3
Q

flake/flock yarn

A

fluff incorporated, tweed

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4
Q

chenille yarn

A

chopped up pipe cleaner

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5
Q

split film yarn

A

tape yarn, flat piece of scored film

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6
Q

ratiné/gimp/snarl yarn

A

frizzy, zig-zag, like bouclé without loops

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7
Q

slub yarn

A

thicker part- less twist, bigger in some areas

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8
Q

thick and thin yarn

A

thick stretch, then thin stretch

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9
Q

spiral/corkscrew/warped yarn

A

thick yarn and thin yarn spun together

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10
Q

metallic yarn

A

monofilament

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11
Q

direction of weave are novelty yarns most often used?

A

weft:

harder to put in loom in warp position (thicker)

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12
Q

strength, snag resistance and durability of novelty yarns

A
  • not as strong
  • thicker
  • less durable
  • poor abrasion resistance
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13
Q

how to make fabrics that use novelty yarns more durable

A
  1. use a stronger fibre (ex. nylon, polyester)

2. make the weave denser

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14
Q

examples of protein fibres

A
  • hair fibres (wool, cashmere, mohair)

- silk (insect)

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15
Q

examples of cellulose fibres

A
  • bast/stem (flax, jute, hemp)
  • leaf (siscal)
  • seed and fruit (cotton, kapok)
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16
Q

example of mineral fibres

A
  • asbestos
  • metallic
  • glass
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17
Q

examples of man-made cellulose fibres

A
  • acetate
  • lyocell (tencel)
  • rayon
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18
Q

examples of synthetic fibres

A
  • acrylic
  • polyester
  • nylon
  • spandex
  • teflon
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19
Q

what four categories of fibres can be tested using the burn test?

A
  • synthetic
  • mineral
  • cellulose
  • protein
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20
Q

limitations of the burn test

A
  • cannot differentiate within each category of fibres

- cannot burn blended fibres

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21
Q

cellulose fibres in burn test

A
  • burns when in flame
  • continues to glow when removed from flame
  • smooth, feathery ash
  • smells of burning paper
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22
Q

protein fibres in burn test

A
  • curls back/resistant to flame
  • burns slowly
  • self-extinguishes when removed from flame
  • very dark, crushable ash
  • smells of burning hair
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23
Q

mineral fibres in burn test

A
  • melts
  • brittle, black ash
  • acetate smells acrid, harsh, sharp
  • acrylic smells chemical
  • glass does not work in the burn test
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24
Q

synthetic fibres in burn test

A

-melts

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25
Q

how does fabric weight/weave affect the burning rate?

A

heavier weave= less space for oxygen, therefore burns slowly and vice versa

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26
Q

what other factors influence flammability?

A
  • fibre content
  • dyes and finishes
  • density of weave
  • styling of garment
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27
Q

higher twist yarns

A
  • smoother
  • stronger (abrasion resistant, breaking strength)
  • more piling
  • lower flammability
  • less warm
  • less likely to soil
  • less absorbant
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28
Q

lower twist yarns

A
  • softer
  • larger diameter
  • better drape
  • less piling
  • less strong (abrasion resistance, breaking strength)
  • higher flammability
  • warmer
  • more likely to soil
  • more absorbent
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29
Q

determining warp from weft

A

-warp stronger than weft
-more warp yarns than weft
-warp yarns run parallel to salvage
-stripes run warpwise
-thicker yarns in weft, stretchier
etc

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30
Q

plain weave

A
  • simplest weave
  • over and under, alternating each thread
  • checkerboard pattern
  • -strongest of the basic weaves
  • light
  • plain in appearance
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31
Q

basket weave

A
  • variation of plain weave
  • -two or more yarns move as one through fabric
  • half basket: only one direction of yarns exhibits this feature
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32
Q

how to prevent fabric ravelling

A
  • serge the edge
  • top-stitch the edge/edge-stitch
  • binding the edge/bias binding
  • french seam
  • twill tape
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33
Q

moiré taffeta

A

-watermark texture (woodgrain)

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34
Q

iridescent/shot taffeta

A

-yarns in each direction are different colours

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35
Q

chiffon vs georgette

A
  • chiffon is sheerer and softer
  • georgette is more opaque, but still sheer
  • georgette has bumpier texture
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36
Q

organza

A
  • sheer

- stiff/architectural silhouette

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37
Q

rib weave

A

-pronounced line in weft

38
Q

madras plaid

A
  • identical on both sides

- dyed yarns

39
Q

callico

A

-small floral print atop a plain weave

40
Q

twill weave

A
  • visible diagonal lines (Wales)
  • heavier, more durable fabrics
  • whichever direction (Warp or weft) is more visible on surface, is the face of the fabric (Ex. warp face)
  • direction (right or left) of diagonal lines is to be noted
  • slope is also to be noted (45 is always even, etc)
41
Q

satin weave

A
  • smooth, lustrous surface
  • intersection points are irregular and do not form a twill line
  • floats (minimum of 4)
  • most are warp faced
42
Q

sateen

A

-satin weave constructed with staple fibres

43
Q

caracteristics and examples of pile weaves

A
  • warmer
  • les durable
  • more flammable
  • more absorbant
  • corduroy
  • velvet
  • velveteen
  • terrycloth
44
Q

v-pile

A

-pile yarn is woven into base fabric as a v

45
Q

w-pile

A
  • piles yarn is woven into fabric as a w

- stronger (caught twice in the ground thread)

46
Q

double-cloth method (pile fabrics)

A

two layers of fabric are woven at the same time then cut apart

47
Q

wire pile method (pile fabrics)

A

(most common in corduroy)
-every few yarns a wire is inserted instead of a weft yarn. the wire raises the warp yarns which then forms the pile effect

48
Q

terrycloth or slack tension method

A

selected warp yarns are controlled by a device, which allows them to have a slack tension at various lengths

49
Q

examples of surface figure weaves

A
  • dobby (small geometric motif)
  • pique (3-D feel)
  • jacquard weave (tone on tone pattern from weave, multiple weave types)
50
Q

examples of extra yarn figure weaves

A
  • clip spot (applied in weft)

- embroidery

51
Q

double weaves

A
  • reversible fabric

- durable

52
Q

crepe weaves

A
  • sandy, pebbly surface texture
  • highly twisted yarns
  • complex weave
  • stronger and hold form better than plain weave and true crepes
53
Q

wool

A
  • crimped
  • shingles/scales on fibers, shingles vary by fabric
  • difficult to make wet
  • fibres coiled
54
Q

silk

A
  • triangular shaped fibre

- spaces between triangles create lustre

55
Q

cotton

A

-different varieties
-longer the staple length, higher the quality
-twisted ribbon silhouette
-kidney bean shape
-lots of airspace
-hydrophilic (no static, dye affinity, releases stains, absorbs detergent)
-poor dimensional stability (Shrinks), low elastic recovery
may be sterilized (hospital setting)
biodegradable
wrinkles, requires ironing

56
Q

physical properties

A
  • fibre length (filament vs staple)
  • fibre shape
  • crimp
  • fibre diameter (mircon, denier, tex, microfibre)
  • twist
57
Q

nep

A

small knot of entangled fibre, dyes darker

58
Q

true grain vs skew

A
  • true grain: warp and weft are perpendicular

- sken: one edge of fabric runs ahead of the other (off-grain)

59
Q

true grain vs bow

A

-weft yarn is curved, off-square

60
Q

seam slippage

A

yarns around sea, are being pulled apart from eachother, occurs when weave is unbalanced, low count, smooth filament yarns are uses, surface yarns are warn out.

61
Q

percale

A

coned cotton yarns
balanced weave
used in bedding

62
Q

lazed chintz

A

floral
shiny finish
cotton
originates from china

63
Q

gingham

A

check print (2 colours)

64
Q

rip stop

A

heavier yarn woven into a grid to prevent ripping/large holes

65
Q

nylon

A
  • lightweight, abrasion resistant, elongation and recovery are good, heat set, compression resilient, easy care, low absorbency
  • pills, oil affinity, colour transfer is strong, poor sunlight resistant
  • used for sportswear, swimwear, panty hose, carpeting
66
Q

antron

A

trade name for nylon

67
Q

supplex

A

nylon, but feels like cotton, blended with lycra

68
Q

tactel

A

dries faster than cotton

69
Q

recyclon

A

made from recycled nylon

70
Q

polyester

A
  • abrasion resistant, good elasticity, resilient, may be heat set, easy care, look of natural fibre, sunlight resistance, low absorbency
  • extensively recycled
  • oleophilic, holds odor, pills, heat= melting
71
Q

Terylene

A

first polyester, leisure suits (1970’s), no ironing r special cleaning

72
Q

PET

A

pop bottles melted into polyester

used for carpeting, fusing, pillow stuffing

73
Q

coolmax

A

special polyester recipe
wicking motion deals with absorbency and comfort issues of polyester
fabric softener ruins this feature

74
Q

ecospun

A

recycled polyester made of plastic bottles

75
Q

primaloft

A

ultra fine polyester

good in cold, we environments (like down, but can handle moisture)

76
Q

mylar

A

extremely strong polyester film

like spandex

77
Q

olefin

A 
polyethelene/polypropelene
wax like fibres
inexpensive
lightweight
strong
chemical, sunlight and abrasion resistant
wicking, aids in heat loss
hydrophobic (quick dry)
non polar (no static)
heat set
oleophilic
pills
cannot be dry cleaned traditionally
low melting point- must be air dried
used for turf, carpeting, Thinsulate, Tyrek, Tupperware, diapers
78
Q

Cool Visions

A

polypropelene

solution dyed before entering spinerette

79
Q

Acrylic

A 
imitates wool
easy care
flame reistant
lightweight
non-allergenic
durable
can't be heat set
poor dimensional stability
pills
80
Q

modacrylic

A

fleece covering (webkinz)
faux fur
wigs, hairpieces
commercial drapery

81
Q

mercerization

A

sodium-hydroxide solution
finish changes shape of cotton (swelled, straighter)
stronger, more absorbant

82
Q

linen

A 
flax stem
also used for currency, linseed oil
has nodules (Grooves) like bamboo
fine linen used for tablecloths
longer than cotton fibres
crisp hand, structured drape
stronger than cotton, stronger when wet
damaged by acids
poor flex abrasion
elasticity resilience lower than cotton, wrinkles more
83
Q

jute

A

burlap
short fibre
weak
brown

84
Q

kenaf

A

rope/twine/paper

85
Q

hemp

A 
similar to linen
eco-friendly (every part of plant is used, prevents soil erosion, no need for fertilizers, uses less water)
shrinks
less elastic
dye affinity
86
Q

sisal

A

carpeting, ropes

87
Q

kapok

A

will not spin
hollow fibre
used for life preservers, stuffing

88
Q

coir

A

between the nut and outershell of coconut
used for mats, ropes, brushes
Cocona: UV protection, odor control, dries quickly

89
Q

Abaca

A

comes from banana shrub
very durable
used in cars, lightweight

90
Q

pina

A

comes from pineapple

often embroidered

91
Q

bamboo

A

controversial (green washing)

mulched into rayon

textiles (2 decks)

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