exam Flashcards
(91 cards)
1
Q
bouclé/loop yarn
A
curl, cone, loop, binder
2
Q
nub/spot/knot yarn
A
small knots/nubs, effect ply twisted many times in the same spot
3
Q
flake/flock yarn
A
fluff incorporated, tweed
4
Q
chenille yarn
A
chopped up pipe cleaner
5
Q
split film yarn
A
tape yarn, flat piece of scored film
6
Q
ratiné/gimp/snarl yarn
A
frizzy, zig-zag, like bouclé without loops
7
Q
slub yarn
A
thicker part- less twist, bigger in some areas
8
Q
thick and thin yarn
A
thick stretch, then thin stretch
9
Q
spiral/corkscrew/warped yarn
A
thick yarn and thin yarn spun together
10
Q
metallic yarn
A
monofilament
11
Q
direction of weave are novelty yarns most often used?
A
weft:
harder to put in loom in warp position (thicker)
12
Q
strength, snag resistance and durability of novelty yarns
A
- not as strong
- thicker
- less durable
- poor abrasion resistance
13
Q
how to make fabrics that use novelty yarns more durable
A
- use a stronger fibre (ex. nylon, polyester)
2. make the weave denser
14
Q
examples of protein fibres
A
- hair fibres (wool, cashmere, mohair)
- silk (insect)
15
Q
examples of cellulose fibres
A
- bast/stem (flax, jute, hemp)
- leaf (siscal)
- seed and fruit (cotton, kapok)
16
Q
example of mineral fibres
A
- asbestos
- metallic
- glass
17
Q
examples of man-made cellulose fibres
A
- acetate
- lyocell (tencel)
- rayon
18
Q
examples of synthetic fibres
A
- acrylic
- polyester
- nylon
- spandex
- teflon
19
Q
what four categories of fibres can be tested using the burn test?
A
- synthetic
- mineral
- cellulose
- protein
20
Q
limitations of the burn test
A
- cannot differentiate within each category of fibres
- cannot burn blended fibres
21
Q
cellulose fibres in burn test
A
- burns when in flame
- continues to glow when removed from flame
- smooth, feathery ash
- smells of burning paper
22
Q
protein fibres in burn test
A
- curls back/resistant to flame
- burns slowly
- self-extinguishes when removed from flame
- very dark, crushable ash
- smells of burning hair
23
Q
mineral fibres in burn test
A
- melts
- brittle, black ash
- acetate smells acrid, harsh, sharp
- acrylic smells chemical
- glass does not work in the burn test
24
Q
synthetic fibres in burn test
A
-melts
25
how does fabric weight/weave affect the burning rate?
heavier weave= less space for oxygen, therefore burns slowly and vice versa
26
what other factors influence flammability?
- fibre content
- dyes and finishes
- density of weave
- styling of garment
27
higher twist yarns
- smoother
- stronger (abrasion resistant, breaking strength)
- more piling
- lower flammability
- less warm
- less likely to soil
- less absorbant
28
lower twist yarns
- softer
- larger diameter
- better drape
- less piling
- less strong (abrasion resistance, breaking strength)
- higher flammability
- warmer
- more likely to soil
- more absorbent
29
determining warp from weft
-warp stronger than weft
-more warp yarns than weft
-warp yarns run parallel to salvage
-stripes run warpwise
-thicker yarns in weft, stretchier
etc
30
plain weave
- simplest weave
- over and under, alternating each thread
- checkerboard pattern
- -strongest of the basic weaves
- light
- plain in appearance
31
basket weave
- variation of plain weave
- -two or more yarns move as one through fabric
- half basket: only one direction of yarns exhibits this feature
32
how to prevent fabric ravelling
- serge the edge
- top-stitch the edge/edge-stitch
- binding the edge/bias binding
- french seam
- twill tape
33
moiré taffeta
-watermark texture (woodgrain)
34
iridescent/shot taffeta
-yarns in each direction are different colours
35
chiffon vs georgette
- chiffon is sheerer and softer
- georgette is more opaque, but still sheer
- georgette has bumpier texture
36
organza
- sheer
| - stiff/architectural silhouette
37
rib weave
-pronounced line in weft
38
madras plaid
- identical on both sides
| - dyed yarns
39
callico
-small floral print atop a plain weave
40
twill weave
- visible diagonal lines (Wales)
- heavier, more durable fabrics
- whichever direction (Warp or weft) is more visible on surface, is the face of the fabric (Ex. warp face)
- direction (right or left) of diagonal lines is to be noted
- slope is also to be noted (45 is always even, etc)
41
satin weave
- smooth, lustrous surface
- intersection points are irregular and do not form a twill line
- floats (minimum of 4)
- most are warp faced
42
sateen
-satin weave constructed with staple fibres
43
caracteristics and examples of pile weaves
- warmer
- les durable
- more flammable
- more absorbant
- corduroy
- velvet
- velveteen
- terrycloth
44
v-pile
-pile yarn is woven into base fabric as a v
45
w-pile
- piles yarn is woven into fabric as a w
| - stronger (caught twice in the ground thread)
46
double-cloth method (pile fabrics)
two layers of fabric are woven at the same time then cut apart
47
wire pile method (pile fabrics)
(most common in corduroy)
-every few yarns a wire is inserted instead of a weft yarn. the wire raises the warp yarns which then forms the pile effect
48
terrycloth or slack tension method
selected warp yarns are controlled by a device, which allows them to have a slack tension at various lengths
49
examples of surface figure weaves
- dobby (small geometric motif)
- pique (3-D feel)
- jacquard weave (tone on tone pattern from weave, multiple weave types)
50
examples of extra yarn figure weaves
- clip spot (applied in weft)
| - embroidery
51
double weaves
- reversible fabric
| - durable
52
crepe weaves
- sandy, pebbly surface texture
- highly twisted yarns
- complex weave
- stronger and hold form better than plain weave and true crepes
53
wool
- crimped
- shingles/scales on fibers, shingles vary by fabric
- difficult to make wet
- fibres coiled
54
silk
- triangular shaped fibre
| - spaces between triangles create lustre
55
cotton
-different varieties
-longer the staple length, higher the quality
-twisted ribbon silhouette
-kidney bean shape
-lots of airspace
-hydrophilic (no static, dye affinity, releases stains, absorbs detergent)
-poor dimensional stability (Shrinks), low elastic recovery
may be sterilized (hospital setting)
biodegradable
wrinkles, requires ironing
56
physical properties
- fibre length (filament vs staple)
- fibre shape
- crimp
- fibre diameter (mircon, denier, tex, microfibre)
- twist
57
nep
small knot of entangled fibre, dyes darker
58
true grain vs skew
- true grain: warp and weft are perpendicular
| - sken: one edge of fabric runs ahead of the other (off-grain)
59
true grain vs bow
-weft yarn is curved, off-square
60
seam slippage
yarns around sea, are being pulled apart from eachother, occurs when weave is unbalanced, low count, smooth filament yarns are uses, surface yarns are warn out.
61
percale
coned cotton yarns
balanced weave
used in bedding
62
lazed chintz
floral
shiny finish
cotton
originates from china
63
gingham
check print (2 colours)
64
rip stop
heavier yarn woven into a grid to prevent ripping/large holes
65
nylon
- lightweight, abrasion resistant, elongation and recovery are good, heat set, compression resilient, easy care, low absorbency
- pills, oil affinity, colour transfer is strong, poor sunlight resistant
- used for sportswear, swimwear, panty hose, carpeting
66
antron
trade name for nylon
67
supplex
nylon, but feels like cotton, blended with lycra
68
tactel
dries faster than cotton
69
recyclon
made from recycled nylon
70
polyester
- abrasion resistant, good elasticity, resilient, may be heat set, easy care, look of natural fibre, sunlight resistance, low absorbency
- extensively recycled
- oleophilic, holds odor, pills, heat= melting
71
Terylene
first polyester, leisure suits (1970's), no ironing r special cleaning
72
PET
pop bottles melted into polyester
| used for carpeting, fusing, pillow stuffing
73
coolmax
special polyester recipe
wicking motion deals with absorbency and comfort issues of polyester
fabric softener ruins this feature
74
ecospun
recycled polyester made of plastic bottles
75
primaloft
ultra fine polyester
| good in cold, we environments (like down, but can handle moisture)
76
mylar
extremely strong polyester film
| like spandex
77
olefin
```
polyethelene/polypropelene
wax like fibres
inexpensive
lightweight
strong
chemical, sunlight and abrasion resistant
wicking, aids in heat loss
hydrophobic (quick dry)
non polar (no static)
heat set
oleophilic
pills
cannot be dry cleaned traditionally
low melting point- must be air dried
used for turf, carpeting, Thinsulate, Tyrek, Tupperware, diapers
```
78
Cool Visions
polypropelene
| solution dyed before entering spinerette
79
Acrylic
```
imitates wool
easy care
flame reistant
lightweight
non-allergenic
durable
can't be heat set
poor dimensional stability
pills
```
80
modacrylic
fleece covering (webkinz)
faux fur
wigs, hairpieces
commercial drapery
81
mercerization
sodium-hydroxide solution
finish changes shape of cotton (swelled, straighter)
stronger, more absorbant
82
linen
```
flax stem
also used for currency, linseed oil
has nodules (Grooves) like bamboo
fine linen used for tablecloths
longer than cotton fibres
crisp hand, structured drape
stronger than cotton, stronger when wet
damaged by acids
poor flex abrasion
elasticity resilience lower than cotton, wrinkles more
```
83
jute
burlap
short fibre
weak
brown
84
kenaf
rope/twine/paper
85
hemp
```
similar to linen
eco-friendly (every part of plant is used, prevents soil erosion, no need for fertilizers, uses less water)
shrinks
less elastic
dye affinity
```
86
sisal
carpeting, ropes
87
kapok
will not spin
hollow fibre
used for life preservers, stuffing
88
coir
between the nut and outershell of coconut
used for mats, ropes, brushes
Cocona: UV protection, odor control, dries quickly
89
Abaca
comes from banana shrub
very durable
used in cars, lightweight
90
pina
comes from pineapple
| often embroidered
91
bamboo
controversial (green washing)
| mulched into rayon
