exam Flashcards
bouclé/loop yarn
curl, cone, loop, binder
nub/spot/knot yarn
small knots/nubs, effect ply twisted many times in the same spot
flake/flock yarn
fluff incorporated, tweed
chenille yarn
chopped up pipe cleaner
split film yarn
tape yarn, flat piece of scored film
ratiné/gimp/snarl yarn
frizzy, zig-zag, like bouclé without loops
slub yarn
thicker part- less twist, bigger in some areas
thick and thin yarn
thick stretch, then thin stretch
spiral/corkscrew/warped yarn
thick yarn and thin yarn spun together
metallic yarn
monofilament
direction of weave are novelty yarns most often used?
weft:
harder to put in loom in warp position (thicker)
strength, snag resistance and durability of novelty yarns
- not as strong
- thicker
- less durable
- poor abrasion resistance
how to make fabrics that use novelty yarns more durable
- use a stronger fibre (ex. nylon, polyester)
2. make the weave denser
examples of protein fibres
- hair fibres (wool, cashmere, mohair)
- silk (insect)
examples of cellulose fibres
- bast/stem (flax, jute, hemp)
- leaf (siscal)
- seed and fruit (cotton, kapok)
example of mineral fibres
- asbestos
- metallic
- glass
examples of man-made cellulose fibres
- acetate
- lyocell (tencel)
- rayon
examples of synthetic fibres
- acrylic
- polyester
- nylon
- spandex
- teflon
what four categories of fibres can be tested using the burn test?
- synthetic
- mineral
- cellulose
- protein
limitations of the burn test
- cannot differentiate within each category of fibres
- cannot burn blended fibres
cellulose fibres in burn test
- burns when in flame
- continues to glow when removed from flame
- smooth, feathery ash
- smells of burning paper
protein fibres in burn test
- curls back/resistant to flame
- burns slowly
- self-extinguishes when removed from flame
- very dark, crushable ash
- smells of burning hair
mineral fibres in burn test
- melts
- brittle, black ash
- acetate smells acrid, harsh, sharp
- acrylic smells chemical
- glass does not work in the burn test
synthetic fibres in burn test
-melts
how does fabric weight/weave affect the burning rate?
heavier weave= less space for oxygen, therefore burns slowly and vice versa
what other factors influence flammability?
- fibre content
- dyes and finishes
- density of weave
- styling of garment
higher twist yarns
- smoother
- stronger (abrasion resistant, breaking strength)
- more piling
- lower flammability
- less warm
- less likely to soil
- less absorbant
lower twist yarns
- softer
- larger diameter
- better drape
- less piling
- less strong (abrasion resistance, breaking strength)
- higher flammability
- warmer
- more likely to soil
- more absorbent
determining warp from weft
-warp stronger than weft
-more warp yarns than weft
-warp yarns run parallel to salvage
-stripes run warpwise
-thicker yarns in weft, stretchier
etc
plain weave
- simplest weave
- over and under, alternating each thread
- checkerboard pattern
- -strongest of the basic weaves
- light
- plain in appearance
basket weave
- variation of plain weave
- -two or more yarns move as one through fabric
- half basket: only one direction of yarns exhibits this feature
how to prevent fabric ravelling
- serge the edge
- top-stitch the edge/edge-stitch
- binding the edge/bias binding
- french seam
- twill tape
moiré taffeta
-watermark texture (woodgrain)
iridescent/shot taffeta
-yarns in each direction are different colours
chiffon vs georgette
- chiffon is sheerer and softer
- georgette is more opaque, but still sheer
- georgette has bumpier texture
organza
- sheer
- stiff/architectural silhouette
rib weave
-pronounced line in weft
madras plaid
- identical on both sides
- dyed yarns
callico
-small floral print atop a plain weave
twill weave
- visible diagonal lines (Wales)
- heavier, more durable fabrics
- whichever direction (Warp or weft) is more visible on surface, is the face of the fabric (Ex. warp face)
- direction (right or left) of diagonal lines is to be noted
- slope is also to be noted (45 is always even, etc)
satin weave
- smooth, lustrous surface
- intersection points are irregular and do not form a twill line
- floats (minimum of 4)
- most are warp faced
sateen
-satin weave constructed with staple fibres
caracteristics and examples of pile weaves
- warmer
- les durable
- more flammable
- more absorbant
- corduroy
- velvet
- velveteen
- terrycloth
v-pile
-pile yarn is woven into base fabric as a v
w-pile
- piles yarn is woven into fabric as a w
- stronger (caught twice in the ground thread)
double-cloth method (pile fabrics)
two layers of fabric are woven at the same time then cut apart
wire pile method (pile fabrics)
(most common in corduroy)
-every few yarns a wire is inserted instead of a weft yarn. the wire raises the warp yarns which then forms the pile effect
terrycloth or slack tension method
selected warp yarns are controlled by a device, which allows them to have a slack tension at various lengths
examples of surface figure weaves
- dobby (small geometric motif)
- pique (3-D feel)
- jacquard weave (tone on tone pattern from weave, multiple weave types)
examples of extra yarn figure weaves
- clip spot (applied in weft)
- embroidery
double weaves
- reversible fabric
- durable
crepe weaves
- sandy, pebbly surface texture
- highly twisted yarns
- complex weave
- stronger and hold form better than plain weave and true crepes
wool
- crimped
- shingles/scales on fibers, shingles vary by fabric
- difficult to make wet
- fibres coiled
silk
- triangular shaped fibre
- spaces between triangles create lustre
cotton
-different varieties
-longer the staple length, higher the quality
-twisted ribbon silhouette
-kidney bean shape
-lots of airspace
-hydrophilic (no static, dye affinity, releases stains, absorbs detergent)
-poor dimensional stability (Shrinks), low elastic recovery
may be sterilized (hospital setting)
biodegradable
wrinkles, requires ironing
physical properties
- fibre length (filament vs staple)
- fibre shape
- crimp
- fibre diameter (mircon, denier, tex, microfibre)
- twist
nep
small knot of entangled fibre, dyes darker
true grain vs skew
- true grain: warp and weft are perpendicular
- sken: one edge of fabric runs ahead of the other (off-grain)
true grain vs bow
-weft yarn is curved, off-square
seam slippage
yarns around sea, are being pulled apart from eachother, occurs when weave is unbalanced, low count, smooth filament yarns are uses, surface yarns are warn out.
percale
coned cotton yarns
balanced weave
used in bedding
lazed chintz
floral
shiny finish
cotton
originates from china
gingham
check print (2 colours)
rip stop
heavier yarn woven into a grid to prevent ripping/large holes
nylon
- lightweight, abrasion resistant, elongation and recovery are good, heat set, compression resilient, easy care, low absorbency
- pills, oil affinity, colour transfer is strong, poor sunlight resistant
- used for sportswear, swimwear, panty hose, carpeting
antron
trade name for nylon
supplex
nylon, but feels like cotton, blended with lycra
tactel
dries faster than cotton
recyclon
made from recycled nylon
polyester
- abrasion resistant, good elasticity, resilient, may be heat set, easy care, look of natural fibre, sunlight resistance, low absorbency
- extensively recycled
- oleophilic, holds odor, pills, heat= melting
Terylene
first polyester, leisure suits (1970’s), no ironing r special cleaning
PET
pop bottles melted into polyester
used for carpeting, fusing, pillow stuffing
coolmax
special polyester recipe
wicking motion deals with absorbency and comfort issues of polyester
fabric softener ruins this feature
ecospun
recycled polyester made of plastic bottles
primaloft
ultra fine polyester
good in cold, we environments (like down, but can handle moisture)
mylar
extremely strong polyester film
like spandex
olefin
polyethelene/polypropelene wax like fibres inexpensive lightweight strong chemical, sunlight and abrasion resistant wicking, aids in heat loss hydrophobic (quick dry) non polar (no static) heat set oleophilic pills cannot be dry cleaned traditionally low melting point- must be air dried used for turf, carpeting, Thinsulate, Tyrek, Tupperware, diapers
Cool Visions
polypropelene
solution dyed before entering spinerette
Acrylic
imitates wool easy care flame reistant lightweight non-allergenic durable can't be heat set poor dimensional stability pills
modacrylic
fleece covering (webkinz)
faux fur
wigs, hairpieces
commercial drapery
mercerization
sodium-hydroxide solution
finish changes shape of cotton (swelled, straighter)
stronger, more absorbant
linen
flax stem also used for currency, linseed oil has nodules (Grooves) like bamboo fine linen used for tablecloths longer than cotton fibres crisp hand, structured drape stronger than cotton, stronger when wet damaged by acids poor flex abrasion elasticity resilience lower than cotton, wrinkles more
jute
burlap
short fibre
weak
brown
kenaf
rope/twine/paper
hemp
similar to linen eco-friendly (every part of plant is used, prevents soil erosion, no need for fertilizers, uses less water) shrinks less elastic dye affinity
sisal
carpeting, ropes
kapok
will not spin
hollow fibre
used for life preservers, stuffing
coir
between the nut and outershell of coconut
used for mats, ropes, brushes
Cocona: UV protection, odor control, dries quickly
Abaca
comes from banana shrub
very durable
used in cars, lightweight
pina
comes from pineapple
often embroidered
bamboo
controversial (green washing)
mulched into rayon
