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Physical Oceanography > Exam 2 > Flashcards

Exam 2 Flashcards

1
Q

Shallow water wave

A

L>20d

Square root of (gravity)(Depth)

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2
Q

Deep Water wave

A

L

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3
Q

Energy flux is equal to?

A

(Amount of energy) times (Speed of energy(

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4
Q

Individual waves move with?

A

Phase speed (C)

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5
Q

Group of waves move with?

A

Group velocity (Cb)

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6
Q

Wave size is dependent on?

A

Wind Speed
Duration
Fetch

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7
Q

Capillary waves

A

L

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8
Q

Gravity waves

A

L>1.7cm

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9
Q

Define a “Fully developed sea”

A

If fetch and duration are large enough, equilibrium is reached where energy in=Energy out. The waves are at the maximum height for that wind speed.
OR
A fully developed sea is the state where the wind is giving the sea the same amount of energy that the sea is dissipating.

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10
Q

As swells travel, its wave height diminishes due to..?

A

Attenuation

Spreading loss

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11
Q

Standing Wave (Seiche)

A

The sum of 2 waves traveling in opposite directions.

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12
Q

Node (Seiche)

A

No change in water level, horizontal motion.

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13
Q

Antinode (Seiche)

A

Vertical motion

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14
Q

Tsunami’s Reaching Shore: Is energy flux conserved or no?

A

Energy flux is conserved
Speed of energy x Amount of energy

When depth quickly decreases, Height quickly increases

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15
Q

Continuity in 1-direction

A

Mass in/Time=Mass out/Time

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16
Q

East-West velocity

A

du/dx

=(U2-U1)/(X2-X1)

17
Q

North-South velocity

A

dv/dy

=(V2-V1)/(Y2-Y1)

18
Q

Quadrature

A

7 Days

19
Q

Opposition

A

14 Days

20
Q

Quadratrue

A

21 Days

21
Q

The Harmonic method

A

The observed tide is the sum of many different harmonics, or partial tides.
Each harmonic corresponds to some component of Earth-sun-moon motion.

22
Q

Stable

Unstable

A

Stable: E is positive, the larger the number, the more stable the water is.
Un-stable: E is negative, short-lived.

23
Q

Diurnal

A

F>3

24
Q

Semi-diurnal

A

F

25
Q

Wave energy

A

(1/8)(rho)(g)(H)^2

Physical Oceanography (2 decks)

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