Exam 2 Flashcards
Chaperone
Late Middle Ages
Made out of wool or linen (wool easy to dye), primarily shown on mend, shoulder cape and hood, goes around the shoulders, fringe cut at the bottom edge with dagging,
Late Middle Ages
Cotehardie
Late Middle Ages
Similar fastening to pourpoint, full skirt at the bottom, waist seam, buttons all the way down, belted, long sleeves. Had a drop waist to emphasize elongation and to mimic gothic cathedrals. Usually made out of wool, some were silk, sometimes closed with laces, skirts could vary in length. For women it could be laced on eithe side instead of in the middle, outer garment for women, could also have buttons on the front, places that they were laced were chosen so that they could have a tighter fit, occasionally even on the back, There were many different neckline styles for them, wider and more open associated with french styles.
Late Middles Ages
Dagging
Late Middle Ages
a decoration method of cutting into fabric, not a finished edge, wool, densely woven, you can felt it to keep the edge more intact. Type of decorative cut
Late Middle Ages
fitchet
Late Middle Ages
Two rectangles on either side of the gown, with a line through the middle, slit in the cotehardie. There for her to have a belt with a bag on it underneath so that she can access that through those slits. Maybe to prevent pit pockets.
Late Middle Ages
gown
Late Middle Ages
Belted high on the waist instead of at the hips, it is right underneath the bust. Full skirt, like the cotehardie, but tight fitting sleeves and tight fitting upper portion of the body. The neckline, similar to a v neckline, has fabric trimmed and something in the middle. Neckline meets the belt, two different garments, the gown with the v neckline, and then the triangular garment is worn underneath, the kirtle. Peaking out from underneath. May see it at the hem as well. The fabric was turned back to reveal the underside of the garment at the neckline. The revers are showing off the inside of the gowns. Much like the houppelandes, they are also lined with fur. The white or brown on the neckline is the fur turned back. Some at the cuffs and the wrists or the hem of the gown.
Late Middle Ages
gisper
Late Middle Ages
A little pouch used by men and women, usually attached to the belt of the garment
Late Middle Ages
hennin
Late Middle Ages
Came in different shapes, cone, can have one or two or three cones, worn by wealthier high status women. Typically had a veil hanging off the back. Church didn’t like them. Some people wore the chunkier version without the cone. Tried to make the forehead look bigger. Sometimes had a contraption that was held with wires and hovered above the head. They stayed on with strategic pinning and fastening, many of them had veils. They would shave their hair to make their foreheads look bigger. There were rules about how high they could be.
Late Middle Ages
houppelande
Late Middle Ages
big over coat, big sleeves, slits in sleeves, always worn with something underneath, length varied for men, mens varied mid calf, sleeves not tight to the skin. Dagging on the sleeves, belted, needs belt to control fullness, almost like a bath robe, boxy, fullness, usually open at center front. undulating curves of the gathers. worn over a pourpoint, not over a cote hardie because it would be like wearing 2 button down shirts at the same time, some were lined with fur or trimmed with fur, wealthy people only with that.
Late Middle Ages
kirtle
Late Middle Ages
Has a full skirt below the waist. Waist is referring to the hips in this time period. Fitted at the top, looks a lot like what the gowns over top look like, difficult to distinguish between the two, if its under the outermost layer, then it is a kirtle.
Late Middle Ages
liripipe
Late Middle Ages
hooded cape worn for modesty, cover and protect the head. Usually worn with a cape. Has a long tail that comes from the back of the hood and goes down.
Late Middle Ages
pattens
Late Middle Ages
Worn with the poulaine. Elevated, it is the thing that goes over the shoe like a flip flop. White sole is the patten, can be worn without the poulaine.
Late Middle Ages
points
Late Middle Ages
The little strings that tie the hose to the pourpoint, means “for the points.” Ties are stitched to the inside of the pourpoint, moved towards the bottom edge of the hem.
Late Middle Ages
poulaine
Late Middle Ages
A pointed shoe worn by mostly men sometimes women, came to a point at the toe and was flat, the longer the toe the higher the status, was a phallic symbol and was frowned upon by the church.
Late Middle Ages
pourpoint
Late Middle Ages
First came about on the battlefield, buttons all the way down and on the sleeves, very tight to the body, a lot of buttons for status, quilted, and worn under plate armor. This garment was not usually seen, it was used for protection and considered an undergarment at this time. Had set in sleeves, deeply set in front and back because they wanted as much freedom as possible to wield weapons in battle. The deeply set in sleeves enables freedom of mobility. There are a lot of pattern pieces in the sleeves.
Late Middle Ages
revers
Late Middle Ages
Like a lapelle, turned over part of the collar revealing the inside of the garment
Late Middle Ages
sideless surcote
Late Middle Ages
Has a lot of status as a garment, Reserved almost primarily for the queen. Has cut outs on the sides and you can see the inside and see the cotehardie. Similar to how a muscle shirt is constructed. Arms can come out of it, has a very full skirt and a cutout, very skinny 0 shape on both sides. There is just a band at the front and the back, which is thin. Cut away most of the sides of the garment and thrown on top of the cotehardie. Could be lined with fur, had a status depending on what kind of fur it was. This garment was also frowned upon by the church because it revealed a womans body and her curves. They viewed the female body as evil because of the story of eve and the apple. The cut outs on the side were referred to as windows to hell. Women were being cast in a negative light depending on what they wear. There was a skirt attached to it, which would sometimes be parti-colored.
Late Middle Ages
smock/chemise
Late Middle Ages
A shirt basically worn closest to the skin by women, considered an undergarment. Very loose fitted, traditionally has a deep v and is made from linen. Length variation is different between genders, women are longer, both are unfitted, worn day and night, what you would wear to sleep, many at the lower end of the economic spectrum wore this often.
Late Middle Ages
tippet
Late Middle Ages
Little pieces of fabric that were long and hung off of the sleeves
Late Middle Ages
veil
Late Middle Ages
A long piece of fabric that hung off of the hennin, still used today,
Late Middle Ages
doublet
Italian Renaissance
ended anywhere from the waist to below the hip. In longer lengths, doublets were sometimes cut with a small skirt. Four seams, front back and both sides allowed for a close fit. Often had a distinctive neckline finish that displayed the high level of skill of Italian tailors. At the front, the garments appear to have a collarless neckline, at the center of the back a deep u shaped piece was cut out into the u shaped opening was inserted a curve, u sahped piece with a striaght top edge. The results were a neck edge that stood away from the neck anda smooth unwrinkled back to the garment from wasit to neck without using darts or gathers.
Italian Renaissance
