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Geog Coasts BK 1 High Energy Coast > Energy Inputs At The Coast > Flashcards

Energy Inputs At The Coast Flashcards

1
Q

what are the 4 energy imputs at the coast

A

wind waves tides and ocean currents

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2
Q

what causes waves

A

the friction of wind energy blowing over the sea surface

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3
Q

what is the movement of waves in deep water like

A

largely circular

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4
Q

when does horizontal movement occur to objects in water

A

when the friction of the sea floor slows down water flow

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5
Q

how is swash directed

A

by prevailing wind

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6
Q

how is backwash directed

A

by gravity

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7
Q

the 3 factors determine the amount of energy a wave has

A

the velocity of wind , the time wind blows over the sea, the fetch of the wave

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8
Q

what is wavelength

A

the average distance between wave crests

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9
Q

what is the trough of a wave

A

the bottom of a wave

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10
Q

what is wave height

A

the vertical distance between a wave trough and wave crest

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11
Q

what is wave steepness

A

the ratio of wave heigh to wave length

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12
Q

what is the is the energy of a wave equal to

A

the square of its height

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13
Q

what is the wave power equation

A

H*2 x V
H=wave height
V=velocity

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14
Q

what is phase difference

A

the ratio of swash time to wave period

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15
Q

what is swash time

A

the time interval between a wave breaking and the swash reaching its highest point on a beach

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16
Q

what is wave period

A

the average time interval between waves

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17
Q

why do higher waves cause more erosion than lower ones

A

higher waves contain more power and energy , meaning they can break at a cliff face with more speed and power , so can forcefully erode the cliff

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18
Q

what is fetch

A

the distance of still, open water

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19
Q

what does dominant wave mean

A

the direction that waves usually come from

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20
Q

what is prevailing wind

A

the most common direction of wind

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21
Q

what is the difference between dominant wind and prevailing wind

A

dominant wind has the strongest speeds whereas prevailing wind is just the most common direction of wind regardless of speed

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22
Q

what is the relationship between prevailing winds and dominant waves and why

A

the direction of prevailing winds is usually where you would see dominant waves , as there is more waves where there’s more wind

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23
Q

why are dominant waves not always in the same direction as prevailing winds

A

waves are determined by more factors than wind , there may of been a longer fetch in a different direction to prevailing wind , therefore creating more waves

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24
Q

what are waves with high energy levels a result of

A

a combination of a long fetch and consistent dominant winds blowing over the sea in the same wave direction

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25
Q

what is the onshore zone

A

the zone onalnd where you would find coastal towns, ports/harbours , housing , industry, agriculture etc

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26
Q

what is the back shore zone

A

the back of a beach that isn’t regularly affected by the sea

27
Q

when is the back shore zone affected by waves

A

under storm conditions

28
Q

what would you find on the back shore zone

A

sand dunes , golf courses/recreation , nature reserves , army manoeuvres , cliffs , mining etc

29
Q

what is the swash zone

A

where water moves up as swash and down as backwash

30
Q

what happens at the intertidal and nearshore zone

A

waves are changing and the movement of sediment occurs

31
Q

what happens at the surf zone

A

broken waves travel towards the shoreline and the movement of sediment onshore offshore or along the shore

32
Q

what happens at the breaker zone

A

waves break onto the beach

33
Q

what happens at the off shore/ subtidal zone

A

waver depths are greater and limited sediment movement happens

34
Q

what are features of of constructive wave

A

long wavelength, short wave height, weak backwash, strong swash, builds beaches , gentle angle that spills onto the beach

35
Q

what are characteristics of a destructive waves

A

short wavelength, high wave height, powerful backwash , weak swash , steep angle that breaks down beaches

36
Q

what is a simple definition of wave refraction

A

the bending of waves at the coastline

37
Q

what is an example of an irregular shaped coastline

A

headland separated by 2 bays

38
Q

what does wave refraction depend on

A

the depth of water offshore

39
Q

what happens to waves when the sea is shallow and what does this cause

A

waves are slowed through the frictional drag, this causes the erosion of headlands as it created shorter and steeper waves

40
Q

what effect does deeper water have on waves and what does this cause

A

waves move faster as there is friction of the sea bed, this causes waves to bend and take the shape of the coastline

41
Q

what happens if waves aren’t fully refracted

A

waves can break obliquely so their swash is diagonal to the beach

42
Q

what does it cause when waves move obliquely to the beach

A

longshore drift , as the oblique waves have enough energy to carry sediment along the shoreline

43
Q

what can wave refraction lead to and give an example

A

uneven distribution of energy on a coastline as wave energy is concentrated at the headland and dispersed energy in bays

44
Q

what does uneven distribution of energy lead to

A

erosion of headlands , and deposition at bays

45
Q

what are tides

A

the rise and fall of sea levels

46
Q

what are tides caused by

A

the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun

47
Q

how many high tides does Britain receive each day

A

2

48
Q

when is gravitational pull at its greatest and what does this cause

A

when the earth , moon and sun are all alligned

this causes spring tides

49
Q

how often do spring tides occur

A

2 times a month

50
Q

what are spring tides?

A

What are the tide reached its highest level

51
Q

When does a neap tide occur?

A

When does sun and moon right angles to each other? In relation to the Earth?

52
Q

what is a neap tide?

A

Tidal range, or the lowest tide

53
Q

What is the names of the three types of tidal range?

A

macrotidal, mesotidal and micro tidal

54
Q

what does tidal range determine?

A

The distance over which waves and tidal currents can erode landscape or influence, transportation or deposition

55
Q

what two houses could arise When spring tides occur?

A

Flooding and high erosion rates

56
Q

what are the three main types of ocean current?

A

Tidal currents, surface ocean currents and Thermohaline circulation

57
Q

describe tidal currents

A

Operate on a local scale, affected by the gravitational pull of the moon and the Sun and are determined by wind direction

58
Q

Describe surface ocean currents

A

They occur on a global scale and are driven by winds

59
Q

describe Thermohaline circulation

A

currents that occur on the surface and depths of the ocean and a link to the heat and salinity of water, for example, cold and salty, water sinks, and his returned to the surface by mixing and upwelling

60
Q

What do ocean currents affect?

A

The transportation and deposition of sediment

61
Q

What is a rip current?

A

A strong movement of the body of water back from the shore towards the sea. In other words, a powerful backwash.

62
Q

when do rip currents occur?

A

One large amounts of water follow the same path of least resistance towards the sea

63
Q

what do you rip currents due to the landscape?

A

Make an a road, large quantities of sediment

Geog Coasts BK 1 High Energy Coast (7 decks)

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