Energy Inputs At The Coast

Question 1

what are the 4 energy imputs at the coast

Answer 1

wind waves tides and ocean currents

Question 2

what causes waves

Answer 2

the friction of wind energy blowing over the sea surface

Question 3

what is the movement of waves in deep water like

Answer 3

largely circular

Question 4

when does horizontal movement occur to objects in water

Answer 4

when the friction of the sea floor slows down water flow

Question 5

how is swash directed

Answer 5

by prevailing wind

Question 6

how is backwash directed

Answer 6

by gravity

Question 7

the 3 factors determine the amount of energy a wave has

Answer 7

the velocity of wind , the time wind blows over the sea, the fetch of the wave

Question 8

what is wavelength

Answer 8

the average distance between wave crests

Question 9

what is the trough of a wave

Answer 9

the bottom of a wave

Question 10

what is wave height

Answer 10

the vertical distance between a wave trough and wave crest

Question 11

what is wave steepness

Answer 11

the ratio of wave heigh to wave length

Question 12

what is the is the energy of a wave equal to

Answer 12

the square of its height

Question 13

what is the wave power equation

Answer 13

H*2 x V
H=wave height
V=velocity

Question 14

what is phase difference

Answer 14

the ratio of swash time to wave period

Question 15

what is swash time

Answer 15

the time interval between a wave breaking and the swash reaching its highest point on a beach

Question 16

what is wave period

Answer 16

the average time interval between waves

Question 17

why do higher waves cause more erosion than lower ones

Answer 17

higher waves contain more power and energy , meaning they can break at a cliff face with more speed and power , so can forcefully erode the cliff

Question 18

what is fetch

Answer 18

the distance of still, open water

Question 19

what does dominant wave mean

Answer 19

the direction that waves usually come from

Question 20

what is prevailing wind

Answer 20

the most common direction of wind

Question 21

what is the difference between dominant wind and prevailing wind

Answer 21

dominant wind has the strongest speeds whereas prevailing wind is just the most common direction of wind regardless of speed

Question 22

what is the relationship between prevailing winds and dominant waves and why

Answer 22

the direction of prevailing winds is usually where you would see dominant waves , as there is more waves where there’s more wind

Question 23

why are dominant waves not always in the same direction as prevailing winds

Answer 23

waves are determined by more factors than wind , there may of been a longer fetch in a different direction to prevailing wind , therefore creating more waves

Question 24

what are waves with high energy levels a result of

Answer 24

a combination of a long fetch and consistent dominant winds blowing over the sea in the same wave direction

Question 25

what is the onshore zone

Answer 25

the zone onalnd where you would find coastal towns, ports/harbours , housing , industry, agriculture etc

Question 26

what is the back shore zone

Answer 26

the back of a beach that isn’t regularly affected by the sea

Question 27

when is the back shore zone affected by waves

Answer 27

under storm conditions

Question 28

what would you find on the back shore zone

Answer 28

sand dunes , golf courses/recreation , nature reserves , army manoeuvres , cliffs , mining etc

Question 29

what is the swash zone

Answer 29

where water moves up as swash and down as backwash

Question 30

what happens at the intertidal and nearshore zone

Answer 30

waves are changing and the movement of sediment occurs

Question 31

what happens at the surf zone

Answer 31

broken waves travel towards the shoreline and the movement of sediment onshore offshore or along the shore

Question 32

what happens at the breaker zone

Answer 32

waves break onto the beach

Question 33

what happens at the off shore/ subtidal zone

Answer 33

waver depths are greater and limited sediment movement happens

Question 34

what are features of of constructive wave

Answer 34

long wavelength, short wave height, weak backwash, strong swash, builds beaches , gentle angle that spills onto the beach

Question 35

what are characteristics of a destructive waves

Answer 35

short wavelength, high wave height, powerful backwash , weak swash , steep angle that breaks down beaches

Question 36

what is a simple definition of wave refraction

Answer 36

the bending of waves at the coastline

Question 37

what is an example of an irregular shaped coastline

Answer 37

headland separated by 2 bays

Question 38

what does wave refraction depend on

Answer 38

the depth of water offshore

Question 39

what happens to waves when the sea is shallow and what does this cause

Answer 39

waves are slowed through the frictional drag, this causes the erosion of headlands as it created shorter and steeper waves

Question 40

what effect does deeper water have on waves and what does this cause

Answer 40

waves move faster as there is friction of the sea bed, this causes waves to bend and take the shape of the coastline

Question 41

what happens if waves aren’t fully refracted

Answer 41

waves can break obliquely so their swash is diagonal to the beach

Question 42

what does it cause when waves move obliquely to the beach

Answer 42

longshore drift , as the oblique waves have enough energy to carry sediment along the shoreline

Question 43

what can wave refraction lead to and give an example

Answer 43

uneven distribution of energy on a coastline as wave energy is concentrated at the headland and dispersed energy in bays

Question 44

what does uneven distribution of energy lead to

Answer 44

erosion of headlands , and deposition at bays

Question 45

what are tides

Answer 45

the rise and fall of sea levels

Question 46

what are tides caused by

Answer 46

the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun

Question 47

how many high tides does Britain receive each day

Answer 47

2

Question 48

when is gravitational pull at its greatest and what does this cause

Answer 48

when the earth , moon and sun are all alligned | this causes spring tides

Question 49

how often do spring tides occur

Answer 49

2 times a month

Question 50

what are spring tides?

Answer 50

What are the tide reached its highest level

Question 51

When does a neap tide occur?

Answer 51

When does sun and moon right angles to each other? In relation to the Earth?

Question 52

what is a neap tide?

Answer 52

Tidal range, or the lowest tide

Question 53

What is the names of the three types of tidal range?

Answer 53

macrotidal, mesotidal and micro tidal

Question 54

what does tidal range determine?

Answer 54

The distance over which waves and tidal currents can erode landscape or influence, transportation or deposition

Question 55

what two houses could arise When spring tides occur?

Answer 55

Flooding and high erosion rates

Question 56

what are the three main types of ocean current?

Answer 56

Tidal currents, surface ocean currents and Thermohaline circulation

Question 57

describe tidal currents

Answer 57

Operate on a local scale, affected by the gravitational pull of the moon and the Sun and are determined by wind direction

Question 58

Describe surface ocean currents

Answer 58

They occur on a global scale and are driven by winds

Question 59

describe Thermohaline circulation

Answer 59

currents that occur on the surface and depths of the ocean and a link to the heat and salinity of water, for example, cold and salty, water sinks, and his returned to the surface by mixing and upwelling

Question 60

What do ocean currents affect?

Answer 60

The transportation and deposition of sediment

Question 61

What is a rip current?

Answer 61

A strong movement of the body of water back from the shore towards the sea. In other words, a powerful backwash.

Question 62

when do rip currents occur?

Answer 62

One large amounts of water follow the same path of least resistance towards the sea

Question 63

what do you rip currents due to the landscape?

Answer 63

Make an a road, large quantities of sediment