Dog Training Flashcards
Training Plan
Training roadmap—series of steps planned in advance to teach a behavior.
Criteria decisions already made—you should seldom have a “what” problem.
If it’s not fully memorized, it should be in writing next to you during training sessions for reference.
Building a
Training Plan
aka Backwards Planning (OC)
- Describe the terminal behavior—the final step in raising criteria
- Break the terminal behavior into all parameters
- Determine first step—closest approximation the dog can do now
- Use the parameters to create incremental steps—aim for quick and reliable progress
- Train, adding splits as needed
More parameters create a more detailed plan and longer training time.
Record Progress
Always note which step you reached on each behavior after every session.
No fishing around or warming up a behavior next session—more efficient.
Standard Operating Procedures
SOPs
Well vetted, standardized training plans for all popular behaviors. Includes Plan B (or even C) for commonly needed splits.
Memorized over time, making for much faster training.
PDS
Push Drop Stick
Sound, systematic adjustments to the set criteria based on the last sample.
Careful adherence to PDS prevents decision-making while training.
Can use another system, but be sure it’s both reasonable and systematic.
Push-Drop-Stick balance
Good training has a healthy mix of all three.
- Constant dropping—plan is not incremental enough
- No dropping, splitting, or even sticking—increments are too small and inefficient
Push
Go to the next step in the plan (raise criteria) for 4-5 out of 5.
Drop
Return to previous step in the plan (drop criteria) for 2 out of 5.
Auto-drop immediately at 0/3, or 1/4.
Auto-drop to avoid crashing RoR and losing the dog.
Stick
Repeat current step (maintain criteria for another set of repetitions) for 3 out of 5.
Trial
or
Rep
One repetition of a step.
Set
A series of 5+ standardized reps of a step.
Example: exact same hand signal motion and height throughout set.
Usually 5 or 10 trials.
Sample
The number of correct trials within a set.
The sample determines PDS.
Split
Extra steps added to the training plan.
When step 1 is too easy and step 2 is too hard, 1.5 splits the difference.
Split Indication
If a 2nd pushed set at step 2 indicates another drop, add a split.
- Push on 1
- Drop on 2
- Push on 1 again
- Drop on 2 again
- Split to 1.5
Session
Total time the dog is trained on any behaviors in one go.
Example: train for 30 minutes, including sit, down, LLW, recall. Progres
Economy
The degree to which a particular class of motivator is either earned or given for free.
Water should be a completely “open economy,” available at all times.
Preempt losing the dog’s attention
- Practice mechanics without a dog to increase speed and efficiency.
- Follow your training plan!
- Train faster! Low ITL/high RoR
- Predetermined PDS points
Rate of Reinforcement
RoR
The number of reinforcers delivered to the animal per unit time, usually expressed per minute.
Keep it high!
Wasted time loses engagement—entirely a trainer error!
i.e. 12 treats/minute, or 6 tugs/minute
Goldilocks Zone
RoR of 8-12/minute
Naturally cause by using a good plan and proper application of PDS.
10/min is ideal. 8-12 keeps us in the neighborhood.
Checking RoR
Check often when working with novice dogs (first ~20 sessions).
- Easiest to use systematic PDS.
- Estimate with treats.
1. Count a number of treats available for a series of sets—say 40
2. Train for 3 minutes
3. Calculate RoR from leftover pieces - Video yourself and count RoR.
Wasted time loses engagement. Split as needed to maintain momentum.
Increasing RoR
- Smooth mechanical training skills
- Minimal Inter-Trial Latency (ITL)
- Drop or split as needed
- Pay setup behaviors (i.e. Sit for down-from-sit)
- Shopping
Optimal Rate of Reinforcement
10/min (every 6 seconds) for novice dogs, even if they are very keen. In practice, shoot for 8-12 per minute.
Once dog is a seasoned learner, RoR can be adjusted by dog’s driveyness to train, experience level, tolerance for low RoR, and by behavior (stay, long-duration heeling, etc)
Training Flow Chart
Watershed decision based on the dog’s current emotional state. CC or OC?
Yes/left: CC to address upset emotional state. No/right: straight to OC.
What vs. Why
The first step in addressing a problem during training.
In other words, is the dog not motivated (why) or is the dog just confused about what to do (what)?
Motivation for a reinforcer must ALWAYS come first.
Motivation
No motivation? No training.
If you don’t have control of what the animal wants, you cannot train them and should not try!
Always address the “why” for the animal, before trying to get to the “what” of behavior.
“Why should I?” -The dog, every time.
“Free Lunch” Myth
No properly functioning living organism will do something for nothing.
Little to no energy wasted on inefficient/unbeneficial behavior.
“Desire to please” is utterly disingenuous. Trainers who cannot address motivation are incompetent.
“Why” Problem
Motivation is the trainer’s problem! No point in attempting to train an unmotivated animal.
If they won’t take a freebie reward, you don’t have motivation.
Creating Motivation
If a dog is not motivated by food, toys, petting, or praise, close the economy on one or more.
Why animals behave
according to Dr. Susan Friedman.
“Behavior doesn’t just flow like a fountain. Behavior is a tool animals use to produce consequences.”
Jean’s #1 thing to impart to owners.
Talking about Motivation with Clients
“Dogs do what works.”
Will repeat many times for all clients. Be patient and steady in explaining that motivation is always the keystone of training, even of their past pets.
Sometimes deconstructing past pets’ behavior is helpful, sometimes not.
Leverage
Control the Motivator
What does the dog want right now? Food, play, person, door opening, adventure, smells, etc.
- Instantly start it for R+
- Abruptly end it for P-
Making the dog a “believer”
Training relies on the dog believing that you control their motivators. Builds over time.
Don’t have control? Don’t train!
Avoid situations where the dog may see that the trainer doesn’t always have control, or at least avoid cuing behavior. Gradually, you can train in less controlled circumstances.
Hydraulic Reinforcer
Motivations which wax (deprivation) and wane (satiation). Large impact on power of motivators right now.
Eating, drinking, sex, and play are good examples.
Implication of Motivator Hierarchy
If a hydraulic behavior has been satiated, it may become momentarily annoying or distracting. Motivations differ throughout the day—use what works right now.
Troubleshooting Motivation: dog takes freebie
RoR is too low, or you have a “what” problem.
Troubleshooting Motivation: dog refuses freebie
Trained for too long, or competing motivators.
Your options:
* End session
* Use establishing and abolishing operations
* Upgrade/rotate/change class of motivator
Short Term Motivation Fixes
Salvage this training session.
Audition other motivators
* Upgrade within a class (i.e. kibble to chicken, or ball to stuffie)
* Rotate within a class if upgrade unknown
* Switch classes—swap food for praise or toys
* Sometimes novelty alone works
Remove clear competition
* More distance or put something away
* Change rooms and close the door
* Visual barrier
Employ the competition
* If you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em.
* Premack! Make the more powerful motivator your new reinforcer.