🤝🏾 DEAL TACTICS 🤝🏾 Flashcards
I realize if I submit to get funding and fail to pay attention and don’t provide these answers it will cost me $500 to submit deals since it takes time to be done right before sending to the
lender?
YES.
- don’t wast peoples time
*learn it so that you can ask the right questions - expect to spend $500 for every question submission and $1000 for every deal submission.
What is it you need to find out minute one?
THE SCREENING PROCESS
- Determine if he has equity. (if he doesn’t you can’t even do it) Ask how much does the seller owe (to calculate equity) and how long has he owned the property? (to guesstimate terms of his mortgage)
- Ask what he thinks the property will appraise for (or if he has the appraisal) - always disagree and make him pay for it.
- Determine purchase Price (PP) by fighting him on it based on his “estimated” appraisal value. For ex. if he says 5M you say 4M and if he says nah I can’t do that you say alright well I can get you 5M but it’s got to be a structured deal. This is where you will discover if the seller will cooperate with a refi or come up with down payment for purchase.
Tell me why its a bad idea to send bad info to a lender?
Lender(s) will black ball your name, put your file at the bottom, never close your deals.
What is AP and PP? Why do they matter?
AP or AV = Appraisal Price or Appraisal Value (the real numbers determined by a hired 3rd party appraiser used to get the loan and accurate LTV for purchase)
PP = Purchase Price - agreed upon price between you and the seller (only the seller sees this unless used for preliminary lender approval to get confidence of seller that you can close the deal)
Why is it important to have a higher AP?
Because that allows you to be able to have a higher LTV to use to purchase the property with out having to carry back as much on the back end. (Good for you because you don’t owe the seller any extra money after close and good for him because the less they need to trust you’ll make the extra payments and he can get as close to his target number as possible - IE the deal closes faster and is a more win-win for everyone)
Lender only see’s 80 LTV of AP (not PP) or whatever they approve it for.
Why is it a bad idea to guess on any numbers?
Guesstimating the real value or noi or gross off a listing with the formulas to figure out numbers is good and fine but guessing when asked a direct question and you guess what it is verses find out.
THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS NOT TO GUESS ON IS:
- What the seller owes and IF PROPERTY HAS EQUITY
- If HE WILL BE COOPERATIVE to do a refi or bring the down payment money for a purchase.
Why is it important to ask things about the property in the right order?
It keeps you in the dominant position.
• controlling the seller to get your way exactly how you want it & prevents from wasting time on dead deals & the order important cause builds up your position.
What are you supposed to look for when you see financials and the numbers ?
Make sure the DSCR is 1.1 or 1.20 or higher if its lower means you’re over paying and need to lower the offer price and it doesn’t work.
- Purchase price (PP) LTV with out anything about seller carry. (This is the preliminary lender terms based on your first LOI agreement before you get the real numbers and appraisal)
- Appraised value (AV) for the refi then submit just seller info to the lender and have LOI on side (lender doesn’t see).
- Appraised value (AV) LTV & seller carry back, lender doesn’t see (PP or the carry back on the side)
Always get the real #’s from a schedule e and if it’s a larger apartment (50+units) it’s best to get 50 leases or at least 25 (if you want to close fast) because it shows the lenders REAL proof of income (POF).
Give examples of what you’re supposed to look for in the real financials.
Ideally you want to get:
Schedule E - to show what his real NOI is and also what he really owes/pays on the property in terms of debt servicing for the mortgage
Rent roll - to show all the tenants names and information on what they pay and how consistent they are at paying.
Profit and loss statement - to view what specific expenses or maintenance have been paid for.
How do you catch a seller lying ?
You know seller is lying if:
- If he’s doing seller financing thus he is too high on price and if he is too willing to carry a 2nd mortgage it could mean the sales price is too high
(he’s hiding something) - if the financials like the rent roll are too generic with no names of tenants and details
- When seller says 100% occupied it usually doesn’t mean they paying
on time or that some are not paying late for months. - No schedule e
What does it mean if a seller carry’s or is a for sale by owner or is too agreeable?
- it means he is over priced but you should find out what the real price is.
reference lying question
When they make you backpedal why do you have to tear into them?
To gain control back
- you will get stuck doing their game plan vs yours
- RICH people play poker
- RICH people tell others what the rules are and make their own rules and path
- RICH people Find ways to make OTHERS fit their needs
- RICH people find ways to get others to work for them even when they have no money
- RICH people are MENTALLY richer vs others who are mentally POOR
- Poor people do what rich people tell them to do
- Poor people find problems and excuses why things fail
How do you control a conversation? Hint: what do you do to control a conversation?
Ask questions to lead, persuade and control; the seller has no time to think and you lead them where you want them to go.
Ask them what?
Ask them questions
What does asking them questions keep them from doing?
Avoids then giving you the job interview, or wanting your POF, asking what properties you own, what your resume is… etc.
What terms do you tell the seller that you want on the 2nd mortgage ?
- “Balloon note” (second mortgage, don’t bring up interest because 99% of the time the terms go as you say BECAUSE THEY’RE MAKING THEIR PROFIT ON YOUR INITIAL 40-70 LTV upfront purchase agreement SO DON’T FEEL BAD), no payment for 5.5 years (start out at this number because all prepayment penalties go out to 5 years, there are several types of prepayment penalty’s: 54321 “diminishing” penalty or a “adjustable” prepayment penalty or one you can “buy down” in a year that cost a point (1% added interest) or just a flat balloon payment) DO NOT OVER PAY ON YOUR 2ND MORTGAGE!
Max interest if any: 6%***
- Seller pays for appraisal.
- Seller pays for the closing cost including down payment.
You want to establish these things UPFRONT… if you don’t then the seller establishes control later on and it’s HARDER to add in later and you’re desperate at that point to close the deal.
If he wants interest for the 2nd mortgage make sure it’s “interest ONLY”
“If you have an issue with the ballon payment or interest only then I’ll just cut the purchase price down and we won’t need the second mortgage at all. I’m just being nice by giving you your asking price. IM DOING YOU A FAVOR by paying so much upfront, I’m just doing this because I’m buying as many properties as I can right now.”
Why do you set the terms we recommend for the second mortgage?
- Because you make more money
- Because the DTSCR is higher
- MOST lenders use a 5 year prepayment penalty and you pass that.
When do you say your terms or put them out?
At the beginning, minute one.
What happens when you don’t state what the terms should be on the 2nd Mortgage?
- You have pay for appraisal
- DSCR may not work
- You lose money & can have cash flow issues
- PP issue
- Deal may be too tight to do at all
What if the seller tells you what these terms should be?
Means you’re not in control of the deal. You have to convince him on your terms.
Do you know what is better: interest only or principal and interest on the 2nd Mortgage? What are the best terms for the 2nd mortgage?
No payment for at least 5yrs. (interest only is always better if any at all)
Do you know why all these questions are critical to know and how not knowing will affect all your
interactions?
- Because its how you build yourself into millions each and every piece done perfectly leads to unlimited money and success. Failure to do it in the right order, or right answer or right responses will lead to staying average and never being on top.
- Being rich comes from being smarter not from having more money. This is proven all the time.
- Being able to correct & grade oneself & adjust is key to being rich too
Why is it important that the seller has equity?
Mainly because you need at least 20% equity in a property to do a cash out refinance.
Why is it important to get a “guesstimate” from him on what he “thinks” the property will appraise for?
Why should you disagree about what the seller thinks the property will appraise for?
And why is it important for him to pay for the appraisal?
It’s important for you to get his guesstimate of the appraisal (and gross income) so that you can calculate what kind of deal structure you can offer him based on the hypothetical AV (assuming you get 80LTV)
You should disagree in what he thinks the appraisal will be and say that you think it’s going to come out lower than what he says it’s going to be so that you can get him to pay for it and thus getting him “invested” in you and in closing the deal… (if you pay for the appraisal and it comes out much lower than he says and it’s not enough for you to purchase the property at what he’s asking for, you just PAID to not close anything… YOU are in the power position and have the money HE wants, so he will pay for the appraisal so that you can cash him out.)
You can do this because you need this appraisal to determine what you can actually borrow on the property and what LTV you can get for it and also how much you’ll actually be able to pay him up front and potentially need to have him carry on the back end. You’ve also clearly communicated how easily and quickly you can get approved for the loan to purchase.
How do you “ask” if the seller has any equity?
How much do you owe on the property? (determine equity) And how long have you owned it? (Determine the interest rate and how much he owes)
If he’s had it for less than 5 years ask if he would have to pay a prepayment penalty? (It all factors into how much he needs to make to be satisfied)
What data is needed for submitting a loan application on apartments/hotels/motels that are $5M+?
- Cre APP BASIC (filled out)
- Trailing 12 month P&L (Schedule E for 3 years can count for this)
- Current Rent Roll (showing # Beds # Baths and Sq footage)
- Current amount owed on the property.
- Address and photos (if you can get them)
- When was property purchased and for how much?
- Who manages the property?
- PSA (In addition this is what I will need from your borrower)
- Assets and Liabilities Statement
- List of Properties currently owned (USE ATTACHED APPLICATION
FOR THESE)
“In general” how does this strategy work in terms of getting funded?
The initial LOI is set so that you can get an agreed upon number from the seller to gain commitment to closing.
(From this you can actually get a loan approval letter from the lender to prove to the seller that you can get the deal closed)
Then you can get the appraisal + the real financials so that you can write out the real LOI based on the real numbers from your due diligence w/ the schedule E etc. (preferably much less than the appraisal) so that you can then send the data in to the lender using the appraisal value (so the lender will see that you’re buying it off the appraised value and not the purchase price because they generally lend off the lowest number) if you’ve agreed upon a good PP below appraisal value it can allow you to purchase a property with 100% financing even with a low LTV from the lender at 65% LTV.
Are the loans recourse or non recourse loans? What’s the difference between the two?
Generally the loans you’ll have access to will be non recourse loans (loan secured by collateral asset but the borrower is not personally liable) but some lenders will be recourse (ie the borrower IS personally liable for the outstanding debt) if they say they feel it’s a little bit higher risk they will extend a recourse loan/Personal Guarantee, if you miss one payment they’re not at a loss because you’re overpaying for the property…. So it’s a win win.
Recourse Loan vs Non Recourse Loan
Recourse - Borrower is personally liable for the outstanding debt. The lender is able to go after personal assets in order to receive any sort of collateral that they weren’t able to get from either the “refinance” or “sale” of the property.
Non-Recourse - the borrower is NOT personally liable for the outstanding debt and the lender cannot go after personal assets directly related to the borrower. HOWEVER, that does not mean that the borrow is completely off the hook for paying back the loan do to clauses called “bad-boy” carve-outs which protect the lender in the case of fraud, bankruptcy, tax issues, or any sort of illegal or unethical act that may hurt the lenders ability to be paid back.
How much should you knock off the preliminary NOI?
Take whatever their “stated” NOI is and subtract about 20%… because they’re usually lying… get the real numbers later (or sooner, it’s up to you)
What’s the most ideal deal to close, a purchase or a refinance?
Purchase, because you’ll be in first position with the lender and he won’t be able to kick you out if you miss a payment. (Requires you to get down payment though)
When the numbers don’t clear on DSCR what do you need to adjust to make the deal work?
Either adjust the agreement for the purchase price of the property or lessen the amount of cash out upfront. (If the DSCR is lower than 1.1 it means you’re over paying)
What points would you use to get the seller down on price to make the numbers make sense?
- Property is super old
- Too many 1 bedrooms
- It’s in a high crime neighborhood
- Bad tenants (looking at cars/smoked out windows etc.)
What should you get from the seller of a 50+ unit property if you want to close fast with the lender?
Get at least 50 leases for proof of income, or 25 min. and they will give your loan a higher priority. (Leases are gold)
What do you do if the seller try’s to get you to back pedal on price?
You say: “this is the price I want to offer (hold your ground), if you want to do a structured deal I’ll pay more… let me know when you guys are ready to sell…)
What do you do if the seller try’s to get you to back pedal on proof of funds/experience?
You say:
“what about your income statement?”
“what about how many people aren’t paying rent?”
“how long have you owned the property?”
“What do you owe on the property?”
“How’s the roof on it?”
“How’s the maintenance and differed maintenance?”
“What’s your management structure?”
“How much are you paying for management?”
“What other properties do you own?”
“How much did you pay for this thing?”
“Why are you selling it???”
When you question them you establish control and it prevents them from being able to think in their feet. The person who’s questioning the other person the most is in control because they have no other time to think about other things because they’re too busy trying to think of the answer you’ve questioned them with?
THIS IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN RICH PEOPLE AND POOR PEOPLE
What kind of note (2nd mortgage/seller carry) terms will you propose?
Balloon note for 5.5 years (no interest)
- if he wants interest, make sure it’s interest ONLY
(Interest plus principal is WAY TOO MUCH $)
If any of this is a problem for them CUT THE PP DOWN, so that there is no seller carry. (You’re just being nice by trying to pay his full price)
Establish these terms upfront!
If they don’t budge on proof of funds, how long will it take to produce?
If they want official approval from the lender, this takes 1 day vs pof which takes a week to get your banks to draw up something based off all of your accounts.
What do you say/do if you get stuck on a call?
“I have several properties, I want you to tell me why this is the best one and I don’t have a long time to talk but I wanted to help you out. If you get stuck say, “well I have another seller calling, I have to take this call” or just hang up.
Describe the initial “cash lowball” offer?
OFFER cash price, say you’ll wire in 1 hour for 30LTV or 40LTV of what he’s asking for. This prevents them from asking you for pof cause it appears u have cash and u start haggling over price.
Then give in and say: “If you want this at an overpriced # then it has to be a structured deal. (Bluff mainly, but if he agrees you could actually wholesale & pull it off but the point is to go low to where HE WON’T so this will eliminate the seller ever getting you in job interview with POF, Past Closed Deals or Your Resume.
What do you say if they ask you what you’re using as collateral?
Say you’re using their property
Describe the “purchase” deal options
The seller puts up your down payment. Why would he do that? Because you are paying the price he won’t get from anyone else. If the seller says: “you have no skin in game” - say “it doesn’t matter you want all this money, you get it back & more than what others will pay.
Option 1:
40-10-60 for a purchase with a seller carry back. Seller (ideally pays down payment or you get investors or use your own credit) gets 40% of AV LTV upfront you get 10%LTV of AV (hence 50% on front end) and remainder of PP + the 10LTV in a ballon note of 5.5 years (no interest or max of 6%)
Option 2:
20-70-10-30 for a 80-20 purchase with a seller carry back. Seller pays 20% of PP for down payment and gets 70% of PP at closing and you get 10% at closing the while he carry’s a 5.5 year balloon note of the remaining PP plus the 10LTV he gave you on the backend. (No interest or max 6%)
Describe the “owner refinance” deal option?
Seller gets first lien position by getting the property refinanced in his name so you are making the payments to him.
If the seller says: “what if u don’t pay?” - you say “if I don’t you win and get the property back with all the improvements and tenant increase”.
If the seller says: “I’m afraid I’ll be stuck with a giant loan if you fail.” - you say: “No it’s a non-recourse loan so you can walk away with all the cash.”
The structure:
70-10-30 for an 80-20 refinance (generally you can get 80LTV on a cash out refinance), and seller gets primary position on mortgage and you make the payments to him. The seller gets 80LTV of Refi LTV based on appraisal upfront and breaks you off with 10LTV of AV and he carry’s a 5.5 year balloon note for the remaining PP plus the 10LTV he gave you. (no interest)
You can get him an 85% LTV (needs 650-700 FICO+) maybe an 80% on the refinance (if FICO is worse we can still maybe make it work)… they get you 10-20% LTV cash back from that refinance depending on the size of the property.
If seller is too weary about giving you cash out you can say “if you really want to feel better about it we can have 50% (of what you’re asking for cash out) put in an escrow account and you can oversee how I’m spending the money… to do a bunch of value adds…
** REMEMBER **
He will want to do this because he will be making double and even triple the amount of money if you fail within the 1-1.5years. He gets the property back plus all the value adds you put in…