D3: Germany Flashcards
History: They had a reputation for one of the most finest wines of the world in the late 19th and 20nt Centuries.
Read introduction germany page 155- 156
Range from dry to luscious sweet.
the top German Rieslings commanded prices similar to those of classed growth Bordeaux
Yet Germany is synonymous with inexpensive wines with med sweetness:
* produced from varieties like: Müller- Thurgau and Kerner
– specially developped to produce high yields of ripe grape in the challenging climate
- *– By the 1980’s often referred to as liebfraumilch on export markets and labelled under brand names such as Black Tower and Blue Nun
- accounted for 60% of al german wine exports
- This style plummeted (kelderde) in 1980’s because the domestic market wanted a drier style of wine**
Some of the most influential vineyards date back to the middle ages:
1) Schloss Johannisberg
2) Kloster Ebernach
both in Rgeingau and planted in 12th Century
During this period there was a rapid expansion, by the beginning of 16th century, german wines were widely exported, helped by the proximity of the vineyards to the river Rhine
It took ceveral centuries to recover the german wine industry. Because the thirty years war. (flatter plains where used for grain to produce bread and beer) vineyards where pushed onto steeper slopes.
- *_1830: introduction of new wine laws
- based on the must weight of grapes_**
Germany only becomes a unified country n 1871
until then it had been a collection of states which were often at war
The late 19 and early 20th centuries saw the foundation of Germany’s now famous wine institutes:
1) Hochschuele Geisenheim University in Rheingau
2) Julius Kühn Institute in Pfalz
– played a big role in modernising the german wine indutry and making it one of the most technologically advanced
By the end of the 19th century, Germany has established a reputaion for producing some of the world finest white wines. It then underwent a major decline due the:
1) ravages of firstly Phylloxera and Mildew
2) Then the 2 world wars
– the area under vine halved in the 50y till 1945
– however it has more than doubled again since
Flurbereinigung: Roads for mechanisation in the vineyard
Mosel: this consolidation (versterking) was not allways practicable, so there are still abandond because theyre economically unviable.
The fifth German Wine law in 1971 has laid the foundation for modern German wine production:
1) Establishing protected geographical labelling and classification of wine styles based on must weights
– while bulk wines still dominate production, in the past thirthy or so years, there has been an increased focus on quality which is slowly attracting global consumers back to german wines
Climate:
With the exception of Baden, Germany’s main wine-producing regions lie around 49-50°N
– making them amongst the most northernly in the world
Overall: cool and continental
At this latitude: site selection is critical.
* Most of Germanys vineyards are situated along the river Rhine and its Tributaries (zijrivieren)
*The rivers play a vital role in radiating heat, moderating temp and extending the growing season.
The best vineyards are often on steep, south facing slopes to maximum sun exposure
– some of the slopes are extremily steep (Mosel 70%)
- Winters can be very cold: usually cold enough to produce eiswein
- in spring: frost are major risk. also mitigated by the rivers and planting on slopes
- sumers are warm but also wet: rainfall between 500 and 800 mm and much of it falls in the summer
* this increases the risk of fungal disease, dilution of grapes, and in heavy storms hail -
autums however are long and dry = allowing long ripening, grape can develop high levels of natural sugars (required for Prädikatswein
* And the morning mists are ideal for the development of botrytis - also important are mountain ranges, such as Taunus and Haardt. which shelter the vineyards areas from cold winds and the worst of rain
-
however at high latitudes, vineyards are planted at relatively low altitudes, mailny below 200m above sea level
* Baden is further south stretching towards the swiss border
– it s noticeably drier, warmer and sunnier than the others.
– although in the cooler areas, spring frosts can still be a concern
-
however at high latitudes, vineyards are planted at relatively low altitudes, mailny below 200m above sea level
Soils: wide variety of soils:
Important role in fruit ripening in the coolest regions.
1) Mosel and Ahr: Dark-coloured slate retains heat during the day and radiates it out again at night
2) There are significant pockets of calcareous soils
* In Baden, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
planted with P.B, PG(graub), Chardonnay and Spät
* Franken: it produces some of the best Sylvaner
3) Grauburgunder prefers heavy, more clayey soils
4) At steep slopes, erosion is a problem, and vineyard owners are regularly forced to winch soil and rocks back up the slopes, adding to the cost of vineyard maintanance
Vineyard management:
2018: Germany had the 7th largest area under vine
Average annual production has been around 9million hl in the recent years
Yields vary from vintage to vintage and from region to region.
Pfalz en Rheinhessen: Average over 100hl/ ha (in the past even higher)
1) 1980s: EU regulations forced Germany to impose lower maximum yields
* they still vary from region to region
- Arround 150hl/ha for Landwein and Deutscher wein
- 105hl/ ha for Qualitätswein
2) Quality minded producers work with lower yields (VDP)
These High yields are achieved despte the climate change:
- The vineyards are at the northernmost limit for grape ripening
- There is a considerable vintage variation (coolest years can lead to fail of ripening)
- however vintage variation has been reducing in the latest years due in part to climate change
Fruit ripeness has improved (due to the research institutes) due:
- Better clonal selection (esp. amogst black grapes)
- Better summer pruning
- green harvesting
- selective hand harvesting
Good canopy management is essential to maximise the sun exposure and also improve air movement:
- Air movement reduce risk of disease caused by the wet summers
- On the slopes vines are usually staked individually with cane tied at top
* this method is labour intensive and requires skill, which are gradually being lost due Flurbereinigung (condolidation (versterking) of the small vineyards)-
All but the steepest vineyards use single and double replacement cane pruning with VSP trellising and pendelbogen:
* Pendelbogen is replacement cane pruning with the canes arched in the trellis
- the arching of the cane is thought to improve the flow of sap in the vine and increase the number of viable buds, in turn increasing yields
-
All but the steepest vineyards use single and double replacement cane pruning with VSP trellising and pendelbogen:
Germany is not widely suited to organic and biodynamic viticulture.
1) Because of the risk of diseases, growers will have to spray their crops regularly
* in Mosel they use helicopter, so the sprays would drift into neighbouring vineyards, risking an organic producers’ accreditation (erkenning)
2) despite this around 9% of German Vineyards are certified Organic
3) there is considerably support for sustainable viticulture
The topography of many german vineyards is also challenging for vineyard management:
1) On steeper slopes, vineyards are terraced or planted up the slopes
* mechanisation is difficult or even impossible
- some equipment or workers have to be winched (gelierd) up and down
2) Also new technology is being introduced
* small caterpillar tractors who can negotiate steep slopes
* FLurbereinigung has improved accessibility and efficiency
3) steeply sloped vineyards require substantially more labour, leading to more costs
* this is why sometimes only riesling can command appropriate, sustainable prices
4) Flatter sites: even here labour is higher due the hand picked grapes for beerenauslese and above
* Many producers still hand harvest for other prädikatsweine to ensure healthy, fully ripe fruit
5) Large scale commercial operations producing high- volume inexpensive wines are highly mechanised and efficient, however.
Grape varieties: Cool climate, so focus on white varieties who naturally can tolerate the conditions or the german crosses, who were bred specifically for that purpose.
1) in 1980, 90% of grapes planted where white
2) in 2017 39% of plantings where black (so increased significally)
Much of German red wine used to be light and fruity, often with residual sugar. but qality has improved greatly
* thanks to the development of better clones, particular Spät and Dornfelder, better vineyard management and winemaking techniques as well as the increasing temp in the vineyards
3) Since 1990 plantings of Grau, weiss burg and lesser extend chardonnay have also risen considerably
4) only small plantings of other international grape varieties with Merlot, Cab S and Sauv B showing some promise but in very limited volumes
Grape varieties need not be stated on German Wine labels
But usually are
Riesling:
1) it accounts for 23 per cent of all plantings
2) succesfully: survive cold german winterds and being thick wooded and late budding, is relatively frost resistant
3) late ripening, needs good sun exposure and dry autumns
* in cooler years and sites, it can not fully ripen
* because of this the plantings fell in 1970S and 1980S and producers replaced riesling for the more reliable german crosses who can achieved the must weights required by law
however, imprved vineyard management techniques, rising temp have lead to greater consistency of ripening and plantings have recovered and are continuing to grow
4) Riesling produces high quality wines in a full range of styles from dry to sweet
* it retains high acitity even when fully ripe, providing balance in sweet wines and giving the wines significant potential to age
5) it can produce high levels of natural sugars and is susceptible to botrytis
6) capable of making wines with pronounced intensity and great aromatic complexity
* depending on ripeness, fruit flavours range from green fruit to tropical
– it can also show floral aromas as white flowers and honeysuckle
– with age, the wines develop toast, honeyed and petrol-like aromas
Page 160 varieties grown in germany in ha
looooook
Müller Thurgau
1) Also known as RIvaner
2) One of the earliest German Crosses
3) earlier ripening than Riesling
4) Produce high yields, in almost any conditions
5) It was Germany’s most planted grape variety in the 1970s and 1980s
* widely used for inexpensive blends such as liebfraumilch
6) Popularity has fallen for this style (plantings have more than halved)
7) it has much lower acidity than riesling (generally med acidity)
* and gives wines with less structure and character
– but it can produce wines with attractive but relatively simple floral and fruity aromas for early drinking
Pinot Noir: Spätburgunder
1) 11,5 % of all plantings and germanys most planted black variety
* enjoyed a rapid rise in popularity in domestic and export market
2) Plantings has almost trebled and thrives particularly in warmer areas such as Baden
3) Germany is recognized as producing high quality, complex and dry spät, often with oak ageing
4) Vineyard management is constantly proving with producers using higher quality clones, perfecting canopy management and selecting harvesting dates
* to balance alcohol, acidity and ripeness of fruit and tannins
– some use whole bunch ferm: the tann of the stems contributing to tann without needing to use oak for this purpose
5) in general, producers are tending to use less new oak and some are using more larger oak vessels than 10-20y ago
Dornfelder
1) most significant of the black German crosses, comes from nothing to 2th black variety planted in Germany in the past 30y
2) it produces wines that are deep in colour, high acidity with fruity and floral notes
3) it is used to produce 2 quite distinct styles:
* a fruity, easy drinking style, occasionally with some little residual sugar, with aromas of sour cherry and blackberry
* at the other hand a more complex style, with ageing potential produced from lower yields, showing greater focus of tannins and structure, fermented of aged in oak
4) succesful in Rheinhessen and Pfalz, Where it is the number one variety
Silvaner:
1) Sylvaner in Alsace
2) plantings have halved since 1980 although the decline has now stabilised
3) lower in acidity and less aromatic than Riesling
4) It too, produces large amounts of simple, inexpensive wines with subtle fruit aromas that can range from green fruit to tropical fruit
5) However where yields are controled (particularly in Franken) It can make:
* high qua, dry, med- bodied wines with med to med + ac and Distinctive earthy charactereristics
Grau and Weiss:
1) grown poppularity sinds 1990s
2) Planted sizely in Rheinhessen, Pfalz and particularly in Baden
3) both can produce very good qua wines, some of which aged in oak
4) Grauburgunder particularly likes heavier soils and can produce wines with medium acidity and aromas of stone fruit and tropical (sometimes dried) fruit and honey
5) from style they range from dry and med bodied to fuller bodied, often sweeter wines (labelled as rulander)
6) Weissburgunder can produce well- balanced wines with medium(+) acid and delicate citrus and stone fruit aromas
Chardonnay:
1) plantings are very low and only allowed sinds 1990
2) However high qua examples are being produced, often with oak ageing, in warmer areas such as the sothern Pfalz and kaiserstuhl in Baden
Portugieser, Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier), Trollinger (schiava) and lemberger (Blaufrankisch)
1) produce mainly simple, fruity wines for drinking young, especially in Württemberg
2) However some higher quality examples are now being produced from lower yielding sites, Particularly from Lemberger
German Crosses:
1) group of mainly white varieties developed by the various German wine institutes to cope with Germany’s Cool climate
2) Müller Thurgau as first developed in 1880 to ripen earlier than riesling
3) the number of new crossings increased rapidly in the mid 20th cent as the drive to produce high yields of grapes with high must weights was encouraged by the german wine laws
4) unfortunately, they produce high levels of sugar, without sufficient acidity or aromatic character to balance it
* Nevertheless, they were widely used in inexpensive blends such as liebfraumilch
5) Reliance on and interest in the crosses has fallen
6) Scheurebe, in particular, can produce full bodied wines with intense aromas of ripe grapefruit and peach, Although ac lvl is lower than riesling, theyre still high enough to make ageworthy wines and also some high quality sweet wines
7) Kerner also produces good quality wines up to high prädikat levels with high acidity and some of the fruity and floral characteristics of Riesling
Winemaking in Germany:
1) increasing number are also returning to more traditional and less interventionist winemaking methods:
* Natural fermentation
* Reduced filtration and fining
2) also lot of experimentation such as with lees contact and oak
* particularly with Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder but in some cases with Riesling
Enrichment, acidifiication and de-acidification in Germany:
1) due to cool temp, enrichment is a relatively common practice
*Not permitted for Prädikatswein
* Germany’s wine regions fall within EU zona A
– allowing enrichment of up to 3% abv
* Baden is in EU zone B: max enrichment of up to 2% abv
2 )de acidification is permitted as acidification, but only in the hottest years
* this tend only be used for high volume, inexpensive wines
traditionally german wines were fermented in large oak casks to allow for some oxygenation
1) some producers of premium riesling still do today
* for example the 1000l fuder of mosel and the oval shaped L stück used along the rhine
2) German oak, from Pfalz is used for large oak vessels, as is oak sourced from central europe
* French oak for barriques
3) past few decades: stainless steel became the norm
* it is used for inexpensive wines, to control temp and easy cleaning
* no oxygen or add any flavours
– so still a choice for mid priced to prem riesling (as well Sylvaner) to maintain primary aromas
– new oak rarely used for riesling
4) proportion or new oak in the form of barriques, may be used for red wines as well as graburg, Chardonnay and weissburg
In 1960s and 1970s all but the finest wines with residual sugar were initially fermented to dryness, but then sweetened post- fermentation, even at prädikatswein level.
This was done by the addition of süssreserve (unfermented or partially fermented grape must)
1) Sussreserve must be produced from grapes of the same region and same quality level as the wine to which its added
2) its common the reserve and the wine comes from the same must
* producers take a small proportion of must pre-fermentation
* clarify, chill and protected with so2 so it remains fresh
* this must is added back to the fermentid wine to create the desired level of sweetness
* the reserve is added just before bottling
- it contains minimal alc and therefore, depending on the volume added, can slightly reduce the finale alc level of the wine
3) Süssreserve give less balanced wines
* large many commercial wineries still use this process
4) quality-conscious producers follow the traditional method of making sweet wines by stopping the fermentation by adding so2, racking or filtering
5) Sweetening through RCGM (Rectified concentrated Grape Must) can only be used for Deutscher Wein
Grapes destined for Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese have very high must weights end ferm will usually proceed very slowly:
1) trockenbeerenauslese can take several months
2) usually the ferm will stop naturally due to the high sugar levels
* leaving high levels of residual sugar and low levels of alc. (often between 5.5 and 8% abv
Since the late 1980s there has been a dramatic shift in the German Domestic market towards drier wines.
The vast majority of german wines is now produced in a dry (Trocken) or off-dry (halbtrocken) style
*Even in mosel, more wines are being fermented to dryness
– nevertheless, top producers remain committed to producing high-quality wines with some degree of sweetness and the best quality examples are amongst the finest in the world and still have an enthousiastic following
Sweetness was often used to mask high acidity and bitterness from under-ripe grapes,
however german growers and producers have learnt how to ensure Riesling ripens fully and how to produce wines which balance sugar, acid and fruit characteristis.
