CSL-Waves Flashcards
What are the two types of waves?
Constructive and destructive.
List some factors that affect wave energy.
The strength of the wind, the duration of the wind, the fetch.
What is fetch?
The horizontal distance over which wave-generating winds blow.
List the characteristics of a constructive wave.
Low, surging waves- with a long wavelength
Strong swash, weak backwash
The beach gains material
List the characteristics of a destructive wave.
High, plunging waves- with a short wavelength
weak swash, strong backwash
beach loses material
Give a description of how waves are formed.
- The water becomes shallower and the circular orbit of the water particles changes to an elliptical shape.
- The wavelength and the velocity both decrease, with the wave getting higher eventually leading to a rash.
- The water rushes up the beach as a swash and flows back as backwash
What is wavelength?
The wavelength of a wave is the horizontal distance between two crests or troughs.
What is the difference between swash and backwash?
Swash is water going onto the beach and backwash is water pulling material off the beach.