costal processes

Question 1

types of coastal zones

Answer 1

cliffs
beaches
sand dunes
salt marshes
ports/harbours
seaside resorts

Question 2

Erosion

Answer 2

waves can erode the coastline in a similar way to the water in rivers. This usually occurs when the sea takes lots of energy from the power of destructive waves

Question 3

Transportation

Answer 3

the movement of eroded material up and down, and along the coast.

Question 4

Deposition

Answer 4

when the sea loses energy, it drops the sand, rock particles and pebbles that it has been carrying, depositing them.

Question 5

Rock type

Answer 5

chalks and limestone can form steep cliffs, whereas clays and softer rock form large bays

Question 6

Rock structure

Answer 6

a discordant coastline, where rocks are at an angle to the edge of the coastline, will erode at different rates.

Question 7

The shape of the coastline

Answer 7

headlands of a coastline are exposed to the full force of destructive waves. Bays are more sheltered from the wave energy because of wave refraction, so erosion is slower.

Question 8

The type of wave

Answer 8

the amount of energy a wave has helps determine the rate of erosion.

Question 9

Deposition is likely to occur when:

Answer 9

waves enter an area of shallow water
waves enter a sheltered bay
there are calm conditions with little wind

Question 10

The importance of waves

Answer 10

The power of waves is one of the most important forces that changes the shape of the coast. Waves are created by wind blowing over the surface of the sea.

Question 11

The size of a wave depends on:

Answer 11

length of time the wind has been blowing
strength of the wind
‘fetch’ - how far the wind has travelled

Question 12

Wave types

Answer 12

Waves can be constructive or destructive.

Question 13

k

Answer 13

When a wave breaks, water is washed up the beach. This is called the swash. Then the water runs back down the beach, which is called the backwash. With a constructive wave, the swash is stronger than the backwash. With a destructive wave, the backwash is stronger than the swash.

If the swash is stronger than the backwash (constructive wave), some of the sediment carried in the wave will be left behind to build up the beach. This means that the beach increases in size.

If the swash is weaker than the backwash (destructive wave), very little sediment is carried up the beach. With a strong backwash, material will be removed and the beach will decrease in size.

Question 14

The movement of water down the beach.

Answer 14

backwash

Question 15

bay

Answer 15

A low-lying inlet of land on the coast

Question 16

Waves which help build up material on the beach. They tend to have a low frequency and strong swash.

Answer 16

constructive wave

Question 17

Waves which remove material from the beach. The swash is weaker than the backwash.

Answer 17

destructive wave

Question 18

steep cliff

Answer 18

Steep exposed rock face.

Question 19

swash

Answer 19

The water flowing towards a beach when a wave breaks.

Question 20

The process where a wave changes direction as it approaches the shore

Answer 20

wave refraction

Question 21

When is deposition likely to occur?

Answer 21

Deposition is likely to occur when there are calm conditions with little wind. Wave energy is low here. Wave energy is high at headlands due to wave refraction.