Cosmetology Flashcards
Lines
Vertical
Horizontal
Diagonal forward
Diagonal backwards
Shape
Width
Overdirection
Controlled by lower body
Square cut
Horizontal line
Even all around
Triangular cut
Diagonal forward lines
Shorter in back
Longer in front
Circular cut
Curved diagonal backward
Shorter at front
Longer in back
Technique
Height
Elevation(lift)
Controlled by upper body
0 degree elevation
One length technique
No lift
Hair at natural fall
Horizontal
45 degree elevation
Graduation technique
90 degree elevation
Layering technique
Blow drying
Flat wrap
Soft set
Hard set
Thumb lock
Flat wrap
Natural volume
Smoothness
Paddle brush
Soft set
Volume
Waves
Smoothness
Round brush out and under
Hard set
Volume
Waves
Smoothness
Pinned curls after round brush
Thumb lock
No volume
Straight
Smooth
Round brush
Parts of head
Apex Occipital bone P.o.d Dropped back crown Crown area Nape area Recession Center recession Parietal ridge
Density
The amount of foils in a section(panel)
Controls how populated a section will be with lowlights or highlights
Light density
Foils are 1/2in apart
30% of hair highlighted or lowlighted
Medium density
Foils are 1/4in apart
50% of hair highlighted or lowlighted
Heavy density
Foils are 1/8in apart
70% of hair highlighted or lowlighted
Effect
Achieved via weaving or slicing
Controls the look of highlights or lowlights
Slices
Paper thin in thickness
Fine
Medium
Strong
Fine slice
One independent slice followed by an unfoiled gap of hair of desired density
Medium slice
2 back to back foils followed by an unfoiled gap of hair of desired density
Strong slice
3 back to back foils followed by an unfoiled gap of hair of desired density
Color Retouch
Step 1
Formula 1
New growth
1/2” from scalp
Outline quadrant
Color retouch re establish
Step 1 Step 2
Formula 1 Formula 2
New growth Mids-ends
1/2” from scalp 1/2” away from scalp
Outline quadrant
Color going darker
Step 1
Formula 1
New growth-mids ends
From scalp to ends
Outline quadrant
Color going lighter
Step 2 Step 1
Formula 2 Formula 1
New growth Mids-ends
1/2” from scalp 1/2” away from scalp
Don’t outline quadrant
Light gold
L y/o
Light ash
L v/b
Light intense ash
L b/b
Light copper
L o/r
Light extra grey coverage
L n/n
Dark ash
D b/v
Dark intense ash
D b/g
Dark gold
D y/o
Dark copper
D r/o
Dark red
RPP (permanent)
DRR (Demi)
Dark red violet
D v/r (permanent)
D r/v (Demi)
Dark extra grey coverage
D n/n
Vol for grey
20vol
NRP of 10
Pale/yellow
NRP of 9
Yellow
NRP of 8
Yellow/orange
NRP of 7
Orange
NRP of 6
Red/orange
NRP of 5
Red
NRP of 4
Red
NRP of 3
Red
NRP of 2
Red
NRP of 1
Red
Comp pig of pale/yellow
Violet
Comp pig of yellow
Violet
Comp pig of yellow/orange
Blue/violet
Comp pig of orange
Blue
Comp pig of red/orange
Blue/green
Comp pig of red
Green
2g pure tone
Levels 10 and 6
4g pure tone
Levels 9 and 5
6g pure tone
Levels 8 and 4
8g pure tone
Levels 7 and 3
No visible tone
Levels 2 and 1
40 vol
4 levels
45min
30 vol
3 levels
40min
20 vol
2 levels
Grey
30 min
10 vol
1 level
20 min
5 vol
Permanent/deposit
20min
CTA
Demi
20min
Mixing formula
40g ___ DL
___g ___ PT
40g ___ Vol
___ min
When would you choose to use the intense base instead of the natural series?
Create the most intense vibrant reds
For hair that has lost only one level or just tone, use what application?
Retouch refresh
Which structure of the hair is responsible for the shine of the hair?
Cuticle
Cool tones absorb more light and may appear slightly
Darker
A half head (short) foil placement utilizes how many foils?
30 to 40
Shape is dictated by what in a haircut?
Overdirection
In terms of foiling, density determines
How many foils are in each panel
Which two products are professional use only?
Color conserve pHinish and equalizing solution
To create a heavy density effect when creating dimensional color, leave ________ between each foil packet.
1/8 inch
__________ is an intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary and a primary in equal amounts.
Tertiary
How many levels of lift can you achieve with full spectrum deposit only color treatment?
0