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Integumentary system > Cosmetic Ingredients > Flashcards

Cosmetic Ingredients Flashcards

1
Q

Cytokines are

A

Protein messengers in the skin tissue . In the skin they help cells communicate with cells . If u are affecting the top layer u also affect the dermis . If u are doing a peel and u exfoliate the epidermis aggressively enough the cytokines will activate the fibroblasts

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2
Q

What do fibroblasts product ?

A

Collagen
Elastin
Glycociminoglycans

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3
Q

Collagen ?

A

Gives skin it’s tonicity

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4
Q

Elastin ?

A

Gives skin elasticity

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5
Q

Glycociminoglycans ?

A

Sugar molecule helps hold on to water in the skin . Dermal layer . Plumps the skin
Grape vs raisin

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6
Q

How do fibrocytes convert to fibroblasts?

A

Triggered by trauma / stimulation and other energy sources
Peels
Retinol ing
Modalities : microdermabrasion micro current , LED lasers radio frequency and ultrasound machines

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7
Q

What’s the stratum lucidim for ?

A

First layer palms of hands and sole of feet

Clear to allow certain amount of UV light to help synthesize vit D in our body (muscle and bones )

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8
Q

Basal layer ?

A

Stratum spinosum and germinativum

Woven connected
Melanocytes and mitosis are present

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9
Q

Stratum granulosum ?

A

Grainy layer
Becoming keratinized
Very little water less than 5%
Cells starting to dye off

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10
Q

How many layers in the dermis ?

A

Papillary

Reticular

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11
Q

Papillary?

A

Upper dermis layer

25-30%

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12
Q

Reticular ?

A

Deep layer of dermis .

70%

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13
Q

What does hair follicle contain ?

A

Apocrine
Oil and sweat gland
(Activates by emotional distress )

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14
Q

Sweat pore ?

A

Eccrine
Produces sweat
(Activated by physically being hot )

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15
Q

What forms acid mantle ?

A

Oil
Sweat
Keratinized cells
Hey

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16
Q

Acid mantle offers skin ?

A

Protection
Lubrication
Ph 4.5-6.5

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17
Q

What’s the acid mantle ph and acidic or alkaline ?

A

4.5-6.5

Acidic

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18
Q

Alkaline ?

A

Soap and water

Skin it’s dry/flaky open to pathogenic invasion

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19
Q

Acidic ?

A

It’s red in the ph scale

Too many beta hydroxy / alpha hydroxy

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20
Q

Eccrine ?

A

Sweat pore

Activated by being hot

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21
Q

Apocrine ?

A

Hair follicle
It contains oil and sweat gland
Activated by emotional distress

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22
Q

Mast cells ?

A

Scattered throughout dermis
Responsible growth of dermis
Nd production of histamine

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23
Q

Fibroblasts ?

A

Secretes collagen elastin and gags

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24
Q

Macrophages?

A

White blood cell
Part of immunity
Helps engulf pathogens

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25
Q

Histiocytes ?

A

Cells that remove debris and other dead cells

Aka coroners
After 50-60 divisions hystiocytes helps remove dead cells

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26
Q

Chromatophores ?

A

Dermal cells that absorb pigmentation from the melanocytes in the epidermis and brings to dermis

Too much it’ll diffuse down chromatophores will absorb pigmentation and give to dermis

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27
Q

Hypodermis ?

A

Fatty tissue
Subcutaneous
Adipose

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28
Q

Collagen elastin and reticulum ??

A

Helps to hold fatty tissue where it belongs
Starts degrading from hormones age health
Fat pushes back in dermis
We see as cellulite

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29
Q

Difference between fat and cellulite ?

A

Location

Cellulite more superficial and structure of fat cell it’s slightly morphed

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30
Q

Epidermis gets its nourishment from ?

A

The capillaries in the dermis (papillary )

Capillaries carry oxygen water and other nutrients

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31
Q

What are the skin types ?

A 
Normal 
Oily 
Oil dry skin 
Sensitive 
Combination
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32
Q

Normal skin ?

A 
Smooth even texture
Peachy in color 
Even pore size  
Hydrated 
Few blackheads nose area
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33
Q

Goal for normal skin ?

A

To keep it hydrated

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34
Q

Oily skin ?

A 
Thick skin 
Large follicles
Congested
Oily surface 
Client usually wakes up oily needs to blot half way
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35
Q

Goal for oily skin ?

A

Ingredients to slow down oil production

To control it

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36
Q

Normal skin good ingredients ??

A

Aloe Vera
Non fat milk
Hyaloronic acid

To keep it hydrated

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37
Q

Oily skin beneficial ingredients?

A

Salicylic acid
Sulfur
Tea tree

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38
Q

Oil dry skin Is ?

A 
Rough  
Dry surface 
Invisible pores 
May be flakey
Skin might require a lot of lubrications
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39
Q

Oil dry skin goal ?

A

Skin needs to be lubricated

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40
Q

Oil dry skin beneficial ingredients?

A 
Natural oils :
     Jojoba oil
      Apricot oil 
      St. John’s wart oil 
Coconut oil 
Árgan oil
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41
Q

Sensitive skin it’s ?

A

Thin skin
May be red with dilated capillaries
May be reactive

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42
Q

Goal for sensitive skin ?

A

To sedate

Calm not overstimulate

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43
Q

Sensitive skin beneficial ingredients?

A

Aloe Vera
Chamomile
Hyaloronic acid

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44
Q

Combination skin ?

A

Oily in the tzone

More normal to dry on the cheeks

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45
Q

Combination skin goal ?

A

Similar to oily skin but not as aggressive

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46
Q

Combination skin beneficial ingredients ?

A

Similar to oily but not as aggressive

Salicylic
Sulfur
Tea tree

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47
Q

What are the common skin conditions?

A 
Dehydrated 
Mature 
Acne 
Hyper-sensitive 
Acne rosacea I
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48
Q

Dehydrated skin is?

A

A skin condition
Maybe dry and flaky
May have poor color

When skin it’s slightly lifted it’ll express water dry horizontal ones that disappear when released

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49
Q

Dehydrated skin goal ?

A

To drink wAter

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50
Q

Dehydrated skin beneficial ingredients ?

A

Hyaluronic acid
Aloe Vera
Calendula
Watercress

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51
Q

Mature skin is ?

A 
A condition 
Visible expression lines and rhytides (criss cross) 
Loss of skin and muscle elasticity 
Hyperpigmentation 
Solar lentigo
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52
Q

Goal for mature skin ?

A

Anti-aging products

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53
Q

Beneficial ingredients for mature skin ?

A 
Spf
Antioxidants
DNA repair 
Brightening 
Rich moisturizers
Ceramides
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54
Q

What’s occromosis ?

A

Happens when clients use a lot of bleaching creams and they go in the sun and don’t use SPF

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55
Q

What do do after a bleaching cream ?

A

Don’t use in the summer months unless you have then in a high spf , with physical and chemical

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56
Q

Acne skin ?

A 
It’s a condition 
Comedones 
Milia 
Pustules 
Sebaceous cysts 
PIH
And dermal atrophy
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57
Q

What it’s dermal atrophy ?

A

Craters on skin

Use very exfoliating products to stimulate fibroblast to fill area

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58
Q

Products that treat acne should address ?

A 
Exfoliation 
Oil control
Germicidal 
Anti inflammatory 
Hydrating
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59
Q

Goal for acne skin ?

A

Find products that handle a group of things .
Exfoliation oil control germicidal
Anti inflammatory
Hydrating

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60
Q

What are some exfoliation products ?

A 
AHA
BHA
Enzymes 
Glicolic
Salicylic 
Lactic
61
Q

What are some oil control products ?

A

Tea tree
Salicylic acid
Sulfur
Benzoil perozide

62
Q

What are some germicidal products?

A

Tea tree
Salicylic
Benzoyl peroxide (kills p acne )

63
Q

What are some anti inflammatory products ?

A

Chamomile
Aloe Vera
Lavender

64
Q

What are some hydrating products?

A 
Hyaloronic acid 
Watercress 
Caléndula 
Aloe Vera 
Skin heals better when it’s hydrating
65
Q

Pimple and cysts form where ?

A

Pimple epidermis

Cyst dermis

66
Q

Dermal athrophy is s result of ?

A

Post sebaceous cysts , skin gets craters like forms

67
Q

What’s best way to help with dermal athrophy ?

A

Use products that stimulate fibroblast to fill areas of dermal athrophy

68
Q

What’s hypersensitive skin ?

A

Skin condition
Redness reactive may be hot to the touch or flakey
Client over does it either with acne they use alcohol or mature skin using Retin A

69
Q

What’s the goal for hypersensitive skin ?

A

Bring back to basics

70
Q

Best ingredients hot hypersensitive skin ?

A

Hyaloronic acid and gentle ingredients

71
Q

What’s acne rosacea ?

A

Eythema ( redness ) dilated vessels hog to the touch , possibly irritated itchy present on the cheeks , forehead , nose and sometimes chin ,

72
Q

Acne rosacea more common on ?

A

On women but can be worse in men . Usually progress pass 50 in women
Futz 1 and 2

73
Q

Beneficial ingredients acne rosacea ?

A

Anti oxidants
Hyaloronic Acid
Vitamin k in skin care programs

74
Q

What to recommend on clients with acne rosacea ?

A

Have then buy
500 mg of vit C and 250mg of bioflavonoids in one tablet

Strengthens capillaries good for people get bruising red skin and inflamed skin
75
Q

Functional group?

A

Is a group of molecules that are attached to the backside of an ingredient to give rise to that ingredient

76
Q

Alcohol functional group ?

A

Ends with “ol”

Germicidal regenerative and the ability to dissolve in water

77
Q

Alcohol functional group benefits ?

A

Antiseptic Regenerative and the ability to dissolve in water we’ll

78
Q

Organic acids ?

A

Contain acid alcohol group

Ends with “ acid”

79
Q

Acid functional group benefits ?

A

Regenerative (speed cell renewal process )

Exfoliating and can lower ph

80
Q

What’s an ésters group ?

A

It’s an alcohol and acid by product

Ends with “ate

81
Q

Ester benefits ?

A

Softening. Like hyaloronate - softening / soothing

82
Q

The epidermis is more ?

A

Lipofillic

Oil living

83
Q

The dermis is more ?

A

Hydrofillic

Water loving

84
Q

What’s diffusion ?

A

How substances cross cell membrane #1 way
Where a substance moves from an area of high concentration to low concentration to help balance both sides of cell membrane

85
Q

What’s osmosis ?

A

Similar to diffusion

But refers to water loving molecules / ingredients

86
Q

What’s example of osmosis ?

A

Hyaloronic acid, aloe Vera , the problem it doesn’t go very deep in tissue cuz cell itself it’s more oil loving

87
Q

What’s facilitate diffusion?

A

It’s an ingredient that use a protein pump within the tissue to absorb into the skin .
Ingredients that contain amino acids polipeptides and certain carbohydrates Are lucky cuz they have that carrier protein

88
Q

active transport is?

A

Happens when we use modalities such as ultra sonic micro current galvanic to name a few

89
Q

The way products enter the skin can depend on ?

A 
If it’s lipofilic (oil loving )
Small molecular structure
Larger service area exposed 
Skin warmth
Dose supply 
How long left on skin 
If skin it’s hydrated better absorption
90
Q

What’s a base ingredient?

A

Base ingredient comprises about 70% of the product and must mix reality with other ingredients in the formula
Something universal will not glide with other ingredients. Not bond with other compounds

91
Q

What’s the universal base ?

A

Water unless it’s a oil base like lotion it’ll be oil

Distilled water

92
Q

What are most common base ingredients ?

A 
Alcohol
Aloe vera
Water 
Unsaturated fatty oils 
Saturated oils 
Oil on water 
With hazel
93
Q

What does SD alcohol mean ?

A

Special dinature alcohol

U can’t consume if u consume Ull get sick

94
Q

Alcohol as a base ?

A

Has astringent properties

Not used as much as before . Cheap to produce

95
Q

Aloe Vera as a base ?

A

Calming and soothing
99.5% water .5% some 20 amino acids

We are made from proteins
More expensive

96
Q

Unsaturated fatty oils as a base ?

A

It’s from plants and fruits
Double bonded
We want to use . Almond oil apricot grape seed coconut argan
Not in aromatherapy but oils we would use in massage that have slit to them
I’m creams and lotions

97
Q

Saturated oils as a base ?

A

Usually from animals not normally used in skin care

Single bonded

98
Q

Oil on water as a base ?

A

Water solution and a little bit of oil

Toner cleanser acne skin

99
Q

Water in oil as a base ?

A

Oil solution and a little bit of water

It’s heavier moisturizer and body lotion

100
Q

With hazel as a base ?

A

Herb, hydrosol . Healing soothing and regenerative

101
Q

What’s a humectant ?

A

An ingredient that helps to hold moisture in a product and prevent it from drying out or going rancid. It’s hygroscopic (ability to hold water )

102
Q

In order for a product not to dry off ?

A

It’s going to have humectants and preservatives

103
Q

What’s a hydroSol ?

A 
A herb 
Chemists put this herb in boiling water and moves up in condensation 
What witch hazel is 
Alcohol functioning group
Organic acid group 
Healing soothing
104
Q

Distilled water ?

A

1 water method

Rids the water of pathogens and gets rid of elements
We use in aromatherapy
Steam -vapor - steam -water doing it twice

105
Q

What’s glycerin ?

A

Humectant and emulsifier
Gly = sugar
A mixture of lye (animal or plant ) and fat ( alkaline) .If u sit in a jacuzzi the foam on top its glycerin (oil from skin with chlorine alkaline )
If u use pure glycerin in a pimple I’ll suck the life of the pimple

106
Q

Glycols ?

A

Humectant / Emulsifier

Sugar molecule mix with alcohol functional group

107
Q

Glycogen ?

A

Humectant

Found in muscle tissue

108
Q

Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose ?

A

Humectant
Similar to the tears in your eyes
Found in eye solutions
Used in water loving products - toner astringent

109
Q

Glycerides?

A 
Is a humectant 
Is glycerin 
The larger the molecule the better it binds water. 
Mono1.  Di 2.  Tri 3 
Monoglycerine
110
Q

Polysorbates?

A

Humectant
Many sugar Esther functional groups
Softening

111
Q

Proplyglycolstearate?

A 
Humectant 
Prophyl- 3
Glycol- sugar
Stear- animal fat
Ate- Esther  functioning group
112
Q

Sodium PCA?

A

Humectant
A salt
Natural amino acid known as proline

113
Q

Sorbitol ?

A

Humectant
-Ol. Alcohol
Sugar molecule

114
Q

Stearic acid ?

A

Humectant and Emulsifier
Stear - animal fat
Acid - organic functioning group
Animal by product

115
Q

Emulsifier ?

A

An ingredient that helps bond oil and water emulsions
Prevents product from spreading
Some ingredients double as humectants

116
Q

If u don’t have emulsifier ?

A

You’ll have separation

In some cases ok like oil with vinegar, certain makeup and skin care

117
Q

Emulsifiers usually have an ?

A

Carbon hydrogen and OH

Oil loving ). (Water loving

118
Q

Carbomer ?

A

Emulsifier
Cotton
Cotton can absorb substances oil and water

119
Q

Ceresin?

A

Emulsifier
Plant extract
Woody potion of plant helps to hold constituency of plant in place and prevent it from drying

120
Q

Cetyl alcohol ?

A

Emulsifier

From animal

121
Q

GLycerol stearate ?

A

Emulsifier

A combination of glycerine and fatty acid compound from plants or animals

122
Q

Polyetheleneglycolsterate - ?

A

Emulsifier

3 sugar alcohol animal fat ester functional group

123
Q

Polysorbates?

A

Emulsifier
Many sugar alcohol
Derived from a sugar alcohol

124
Q

What happens if you add too much emulsifier or not enough ?

A

Too much - stiff not pliable

Not enough- separation

125
Q

Active ingredient ?

A

Aka performance ingredient
Is active on the skin
Benefits the skin

126
Q

Base ? Humectant ? Emulsifier?

A

Base - bulk of product
Humectant- holds water prevents product from losing water
Emulsifier - prevents product from separating

127
Q

Aloe Vera as an active ingredient?

A

Hydrating soothing anti inflammatory slows down peeling progress

128
Q

Allantoin as an active ingredient ?

A

Hydrating / soothing

129
Q

Alpha hydroxy acids as active ingredient ?

A

Acid attached to 1st carbon chain
Water loving
Eye and mouth water loving skin its oil loving
If u put on eye and lips much more aggressive than skin

130
Q

What are some Alpha Hydroxy ACids ?

A 
Glycolic acid
Lactic acid
Malic acid
Pyruvic acid 
Tartaric acid
Citric acid
131
Q

Beta hydroxy acids ?

A

Active ingredient
2 acid Its attached to second carbon chain
Beta hydroxy acids - oil loving
If hits skin burning small molecular structures
Penetrates very deeply
More aggresive breaking up oil
Salicylic acid

132
Q

Glycolic acid ?

A 
Active ingredient
AHA
Smallest structure of all AHA's
Naturally from sugar cane 
Exfoliates / smooths texture / lightens some pigmentation
133
Q

Lactic acid ?

A

Active ingredient
From milky
3 carbons Doesn’t penetrate as deep as glycolic
Exfoliates /imp texture / hydrates skin/ melanogenesis inhibitor

134
Q

Pyruvic acid ?

A 
Active ingredient r
3 carbon atoms
Lightly exfoliates
Slightly brightening 
Antioxidant 
From lemon line
135
Q

Malic acid?

A

Active ingredient
4 carbon atoms doesn’t penetrate as quicker
Often times ull find Malic tartaric Peruvic and citric
Mildly exfoliates and antioxidant
Derived from apples

136
Q

Tartaric acid?

A 
Active ingredient 
4 carbon atoms 
Mildly exfoliating / brightening 
Antioxidant 
Derived from grapes
137
Q

Citric acid ?

A

Active ingredient
5 carbon atoms
Exfoliating mild melanogenesis inhibitor antioxidant
From oranges

138
Q

Beta hydroxy acid ?

A 
Active ingredient 
Salicylic acid 
From wintergreen or willowbark 
Oil loving 
Very exfoliating germicidal controls oil
139
Q

What are amino acids ?

A

Active ingredient
We are made of proteins (amino acids)
No products or ingredients usually peptides which are a combination of amino acids
Helps on the regeneration of tissue

140
Q

Benzol peroxide?

A

Active ingredient
From benzoic acid - aggressive ingredient
Kills bacteria
Oxygenates pimple by high frequency LED
Best for acne skin
If u over use it it can cause burning causing Hyper Pigmentation
Don’t use on oily skin cuz ull oxygenate the oil causing blackheads . But do use over pimple to oxygenate pimple

141
Q

Phenol?

A

Phenol functional group
Very antimicrobial
Smell or taste very stimulating

142
Q

Beta or poly glucan?

A 
Active ingredient 
Means two or many sugars
Dry mature skin 
Stimulating increase circulation and stimulating 
Most common product for dry mature
143
Q

Phenol ?

A

Functional group
Also ends with ol
More anti microbial and stimulating than alcohol group and cam be spicey

144
Q

Hyauloronic acid derived from ?

A

Roster combs or Vicks ingredient that holds several thousand times its weight in water

Good binder of water helps to hydrate topically

145
Q

Clay?

A 
Active ingredient 
If blended with oil its mineralizing 
If blended with water mineralizing and not only does it pull oil also water 
Must b careful not to dehydrate 
Derived from the earth
146
Q

Types of clay ?

A 
Kaolin 
Bentonite 
Fullers earth 
Diatamaceous earth 
Green clay
147
Q

Kaolin ?

A

Active ingredient
Light Clay
A lot of zing and minerals
Don’t use water on mature dry skin use oil

148
Q

Bentonite , Fullers earth and diatomaceous earth ?

A

Light brown clay
Found in north and South America
Also mineralizing

149
Q

Green clay ?

A 
Clay
Active ingredient 
Found in Asia 
A lot of chlorophyll ( makes it green) 
Very purifying 
Someone with acne

Integumentary system (3 decks)

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