Cosmetic Ingredients Flashcards

1
Q

Cytokines are

A

Protein messengers in the skin tissue . In the skin they help cells communicate with cells . If u are affecting the top layer u also affect the dermis . If u are doing a peel and u exfoliate the epidermis aggressively enough the cytokines will activate the fibroblasts

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2
Q

What do fibroblasts product ?

A

Collagen
Elastin
Glycociminoglycans

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3
Q

Collagen ?

A

Gives skin it’s tonicity

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4
Q

Elastin ?

A

Gives skin elasticity

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5
Q

Glycociminoglycans ?

A

Sugar molecule helps hold on to water in the skin . Dermal layer . Plumps the skin
Grape vs raisin

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6
Q

How do fibrocytes convert to fibroblasts?

A

Triggered by trauma / stimulation and other energy sources
Peels
Retinol ing
Modalities : microdermabrasion micro current , LED lasers radio frequency and ultrasound machines

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7
Q

What’s the stratum lucidim for ?

A

First layer palms of hands and sole of feet

Clear to allow certain amount of UV light to help synthesize vit D in our body (muscle and bones )

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8
Q

Basal layer ?

A

Stratum spinosum and germinativum

Woven connected
Melanocytes and mitosis are present

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9
Q

Stratum granulosum ?

A

Grainy layer
Becoming keratinized
Very little water less than 5%
Cells starting to dye off

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10
Q

How many layers in the dermis ?

A

Papillary

Reticular

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11
Q

Papillary?

A

Upper dermis layer

25-30%

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12
Q

Reticular ?

A

Deep layer of dermis .

70%

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13
Q

What does hair follicle contain ?

A

Apocrine
Oil and sweat gland
(Activates by emotional distress )

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14
Q

Sweat pore ?

A

Eccrine
Produces sweat
(Activated by physically being hot )

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15
Q

What forms acid mantle ?

A

Oil
Sweat
Keratinized cells
Hey

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16
Q

Acid mantle offers skin ?

A

Protection
Lubrication
Ph 4.5-6.5

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17
Q

What’s the acid mantle ph and acidic or alkaline ?

A

4.5-6.5

Acidic

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18
Q

Alkaline ?

A

Soap and water

Skin it’s dry/flaky open to pathogenic invasion

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19
Q

Acidic ?

A

It’s red in the ph scale

Too many beta hydroxy / alpha hydroxy

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20
Q

Eccrine ?

A

Sweat pore

Activated by being hot

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21
Q

Apocrine ?

A

Hair follicle
It contains oil and sweat gland
Activated by emotional distress

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22
Q

Mast cells ?

A

Scattered throughout dermis
Responsible growth of dermis
Nd production of histamine

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23
Q

Fibroblasts ?

A

Secretes collagen elastin and gags

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24
Q

Macrophages?

A

White blood cell
Part of immunity
Helps engulf pathogens

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25
Histiocytes ?
Cells that remove debris and other dead cells Aka coroners After 50-60 divisions hystiocytes helps remove dead cells
26
Chromatophores ?
Dermal cells that absorb pigmentation from the melanocytes in the epidermis and brings to dermis Too much it’ll diffuse down chromatophores will absorb pigmentation and give to dermis
27
Hypodermis ?
Fatty tissue Subcutaneous Adipose
28
Collagen elastin and reticulum ??
Helps to hold fatty tissue where it belongs Starts degrading from hormones age health Fat pushes back in dermis We see as cellulite
29
Difference between fat and cellulite ?
Location | Cellulite more superficial and structure of fat cell it’s slightly morphed
30
Epidermis gets its nourishment from ?
The capillaries in the dermis (papillary ) Capillaries carry oxygen water and other nutrients
31
What are the skin types ?
``` Normal Oily Oil dry skin Sensitive Combination ```
32
Normal skin ?
``` Smooth even texture Peachy in color Even pore size Hydrated Few blackheads nose area ```
33
Goal for normal skin ?
To keep it hydrated
34
Oily skin ?
``` Thick skin Large follicles Congested Oily surface Client usually wakes up oily needs to blot half way ```
35
Goal for oily skin ?
Ingredients to slow down oil production | To control it
36
Normal skin good ingredients ??
Aloe Vera Non fat milk Hyaloronic acid To keep it hydrated
37
Oily skin beneficial ingredients?
Salicylic acid Sulfur Tea tree
38
Oil dry skin Is ?
``` Rough Dry surface Invisible pores May be flakey Skin might require a lot of lubrications ```
39
Oil dry skin goal ?
Skin needs to be lubricated
40
Oil dry skin beneficial ingredients?
``` Natural oils : Jojoba oil Apricot oil St. John’s wart oil Coconut oil Árgan oil ```
41
Sensitive skin it’s ?
Thin skin May be red with dilated capillaries May be reactive
42
Goal for sensitive skin ?
To sedate | Calm not overstimulate
43
Sensitive skin beneficial ingredients?
Aloe Vera Chamomile Hyaloronic acid
44
Combination skin ?
Oily in the tzone | More normal to dry on the cheeks
45
Combination skin goal ?
Similar to oily skin but not as aggressive
46
Combination skin beneficial ingredients ?
Similar to oily but not as aggressive Salicylic Sulfur Tea tree
47
What are the common skin conditions?
``` Dehydrated Mature Acne Hyper-sensitive Acne rosacea I ```
48
Dehydrated skin is?
A skin condition Maybe dry and flaky May have poor color When skin it’s slightly lifted it’ll express water dry horizontal ones that disappear when released
49
Dehydrated skin goal ?
To drink wAter
50
Dehydrated skin beneficial ingredients ?
Hyaluronic acid Aloe Vera Calendula Watercress
51
Mature skin is ?
``` A condition Visible expression lines and rhytides (criss cross) Loss of skin and muscle elasticity Hyperpigmentation Solar lentigo ```
52
Goal for mature skin ?
Anti-aging products
53
Beneficial ingredients for mature skin ?
``` Spf Antioxidants DNA repair Brightening Rich moisturizers Ceramides ```
54
What’s occromosis ?
Happens when clients use a lot of bleaching creams and they go in the sun and don’t use SPF
55
What do do after a bleaching cream ?
Don’t use in the summer months unless you have then in a high spf , with physical and chemical
56
Acne skin ?
``` It’s a condition Comedones Milia Pustules Sebaceous cysts PIH And dermal atrophy ```
57
What it’s dermal atrophy ?
Craters on skin | Use very exfoliating products to stimulate fibroblast to fill area
58
Products that treat acne should address ?
``` Exfoliation Oil control Germicidal Anti inflammatory Hydrating ```
59
Goal for acne skin ?
Find products that handle a group of things . Exfoliation oil control germicidal Anti inflammatory Hydrating
60
What are some exfoliation products ?
``` AHA BHA Enzymes Glicolic Salicylic Lactic ```
61
What are some oil control products ?
Tea tree Salicylic acid Sulfur Benzoil perozide
62
What are some germicidal products?
Tea tree Salicylic Benzoyl peroxide (kills p acne )
63
What are some anti inflammatory products ?
Chamomile Aloe Vera Lavender
64
What are some hydrating products?
``` Hyaloronic acid Watercress Caléndula Aloe Vera Skin heals better when it’s hydrating ```
65
Pimple and cysts form where ?
Pimple epidermis | Cyst dermis
66
Dermal athrophy is s result of ?
Post sebaceous cysts , skin gets craters like forms
67
What’s best way to help with dermal athrophy ?
Use products that stimulate fibroblast to fill areas of dermal athrophy
68
What’s hypersensitive skin ?
Skin condition Redness reactive may be hot to the touch or flakey Client over does it either with acne they use alcohol or mature skin using Retin A
69
What’s the goal for hypersensitive skin ?
Bring back to basics
70
Best ingredients hot hypersensitive skin ?
Hyaloronic acid and gentle ingredients
71
What’s acne rosacea ?
Eythema ( redness ) dilated vessels hog to the touch , possibly irritated itchy present on the cheeks , forehead , nose and sometimes chin ,
72
Acne rosacea more common on ?
On women but can be worse in men . Usually progress pass 50 in women Futz 1 and 2
73
Beneficial ingredients acne rosacea ?
Anti oxidants Hyaloronic Acid Vitamin k in skin care programs
74
What to recommend on clients with acne rosacea ?
Have then buy 500 mg of vit C and 250mg of bioflavonoids in one tablet Strengthens capillaries good for people get bruising red skin and inflamed skin
75
Functional group?
Is a group of molecules that are attached to the backside of an ingredient to give rise to that ingredient
76
Alcohol functional group ?
Ends with “ol" | Germicidal regenerative and the ability to dissolve in water
77
Alcohol functional group benefits ?
Antiseptic Regenerative and the ability to dissolve in water we’ll
78
Organic acids ?
Contain acid alcohol group | Ends with “ acid”
79
Acid functional group benefits ?
Regenerative (speed cell renewal process ) | Exfoliating and can lower ph
80
What’s an ésters group ?
It’s an alcohol and acid by product | Ends with “ate
81
Ester benefits ?
Softening. Like hyaloronate - softening / soothing
82
The epidermis is more ?
Lipofillic | Oil living
83
The dermis is more ?
Hydrofillic | Water loving
84
What’s diffusion ?
How substances cross cell membrane #1 way Where a substance moves from an area of high concentration to low concentration to help balance both sides of cell membrane
85
What’s osmosis ?
Similar to diffusion | But refers to water loving molecules / ingredients
86
What’s example of osmosis ?
Hyaloronic acid, aloe Vera , the problem it doesn’t go very deep in tissue cuz cell itself it’s more oil loving
87
What’s facilitate diffusion?
It’s an ingredient that use a protein pump within the tissue to absorb into the skin . Ingredients that contain amino acids polipeptides and certain carbohydrates Are lucky cuz they have that carrier protein
88
active transport is?
Happens when we use modalities such as ultra sonic micro current galvanic to name a few
89
The way products enter the skin can depend on ?
``` If it’s lipofilic (oil loving ) Small molecular structure Larger service area exposed Skin warmth Dose supply How long left on skin If skin it’s hydrated better absorption ```
90
What’s a base ingredient?
Base ingredient comprises about 70% of the product and must mix reality with other ingredients in the formula Something universal will not glide with other ingredients. Not bond with other compounds
91
What’s the universal base ?
Water unless it’s a oil base like lotion it’ll be oil Distilled water
92
What are most common base ingredients ?
``` Alcohol Aloe vera Water Unsaturated fatty oils Saturated oils Oil on water With hazel ```
93
What does SD alcohol mean ?
Special dinature alcohol | U can’t consume if u consume Ull get sick
94
Alcohol as a base ?
Has astringent properties | Not used as much as before . Cheap to produce
95
Aloe Vera as a base ?
Calming and soothing 99.5% water .5% some 20 amino acids We are made from proteins More expensive
96
Unsaturated fatty oils as a base ?
It’s from plants and fruits Double bonded We want to use . Almond oil apricot grape seed coconut argan Not in aromatherapy but oils we would use in massage that have slit to them I’m creams and lotions
97
Saturated oils as a base ?
Usually from animals not normally used in skin care | Single bonded
98
Oil on water as a base ?
Water solution and a little bit of oil Toner cleanser acne skin
99
Water in oil as a base ?
Oil solution and a little bit of water It’s heavier moisturizer and body lotion
100
With hazel as a base ?
Herb, hydrosol . Healing soothing and regenerative
101
What’s a humectant ?
An ingredient that helps to hold moisture in a product and prevent it from drying out or going rancid. It’s hygroscopic (ability to hold water )
102
In order for a product not to dry off ?
It’s going to have humectants and preservatives
103
What’s a hydroSol ?
``` A herb Chemists put this herb in boiling water and moves up in condensation What witch hazel is Alcohol functioning group Organic acid group Healing soothing ```
104
Distilled water ?
#1 water method Rids the water of pathogens and gets rid of elements We use in aromatherapy Steam -vapor - steam -water doing it twice
105
What's glycerin ?
Humectant and emulsifier Gly = sugar A mixture of lye (animal or plant ) and fat ( alkaline) .If u sit in a jacuzzi the foam on top its glycerin (oil from skin with chlorine alkaline ) If u use pure glycerin in a pimple I'll suck the life of the pimple
106
Glycols ?
Humectant / Emulsifier | Sugar molecule mix with alcohol functional group
107
Glycogen ?
Humectant | Found in muscle tissue
108
Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose ?
Humectant Similar to the tears in your eyes Found in eye solutions Used in water loving products - toner astringent
109
Glycerides?
``` Is a humectant Is glycerin The larger the molecule the better it binds water. Mono1. Di 2. Tri 3 Monoglycerine ```
110
Polysorbates?
Humectant Many sugar Esther functional groups Softening
111
Proplyglycolstearate?
``` Humectant Prophyl- 3 Glycol- sugar Stear- animal fat Ate- Esther functioning group ```
112
Sodium PCA?
Humectant A salt Natural amino acid known as proline
113
Sorbitol ?
Humectant -Ol. Alcohol Sugar molecule
114
Stearic acid ?
Humectant and Emulsifier Stear - animal fat Acid - organic functioning group Animal by product
115
Emulsifier ?
An ingredient that helps bond oil and water emulsions Prevents product from spreading Some ingredients double as humectants
116
If u don't have emulsifier ?
You'll have separation | In some cases ok like oil with vinegar, certain makeup and skin care
117
Emulsifiers usually have an ?
Carbon hydrogen and OH | Oil loving ). (Water loving
118
Carbomer ?
Emulsifier Cotton Cotton can absorb substances oil and water
119
Ceresin?
Emulsifier Plant extract Woody potion of plant helps to hold constituency of plant in place and prevent it from drying
120
Cetyl alcohol ?
Emulsifier | From animal
121
GLycerol stearate ?
Emulsifier | A combination of glycerine and fatty acid compound from plants or animals
122
Polyetheleneglycolsterate - ?
Emulsifier | 3 sugar alcohol animal fat ester functional group
123
Polysorbates?
Emulsifier Many sugar alcohol Derived from a sugar alcohol
124
What happens if you add too much emulsifier or not enough ?
Too much - stiff not pliable | Not enough- separation
125
Active ingredient ?
Aka performance ingredient Is active on the skin Benefits the skin
126
Base ? Humectant ? Emulsifier?
Base - bulk of product Humectant- holds water prevents product from losing water Emulsifier - prevents product from separating
127
Aloe Vera as an active ingredient?
Hydrating soothing anti inflammatory slows down peeling progress
128
Allantoin as an active ingredient ?
Hydrating / soothing
129
Alpha hydroxy acids as active ingredient ?
Acid attached to 1st carbon chain Water loving Eye and mouth water loving skin its oil loving If u put on eye and lips much more aggressive than skin
130
What are some Alpha Hydroxy ACids ?
``` Glycolic acid Lactic acid Malic acid Pyruvic acid Tartaric acid Citric acid ```
131
Beta hydroxy acids ?
Active ingredient 2 acid Its attached to second carbon chain Beta hydroxy acids - oil loving If hits skin burning small molecular structures Penetrates very deeply More aggresive breaking up oil Salicylic acid
132
Glycolic acid ?
``` Active ingredient AHA Smallest structure of all AHA's Naturally from sugar cane Exfoliates / smooths texture / lightens some pigmentation ```
133
Lactic acid ?
Active ingredient From milky 3 carbons Doesn't penetrate as deep as glycolic Exfoliates /imp texture / hydrates skin/ melanogenesis inhibitor
134
Pyruvic acid ?
``` Active ingredient r 3 carbon atoms Lightly exfoliates Slightly brightening Antioxidant From lemon line ```
135
Malic acid?
Active ingredient 4 carbon atoms doesn't penetrate as quicker Often times ull find Malic tartaric Peruvic and citric Mildly exfoliates and antioxidant Derived from apples
136
Tartaric acid?
``` Active ingredient 4 carbon atoms Mildly exfoliating / brightening Antioxidant Derived from grapes ```
137
Citric acid ?
Active ingredient 5 carbon atoms Exfoliating mild melanogenesis inhibitor antioxidant From oranges
138
Beta hydroxy acid ?
``` Active ingredient Salicylic acid From wintergreen or willowbark Oil loving Very exfoliating germicidal controls oil ```
139
What are amino acids ?
Active ingredient We are made of proteins (amino acids) No products or ingredients usually peptides which are a combination of amino acids Helps on the regeneration of tissue
140
Benzol peroxide?
Active ingredient From benzoic acid - aggressive ingredient Kills bacteria Oxygenates pimple by high frequency LED Best for acne skin If u over use it it can cause burning causing Hyper Pigmentation Don't use on oily skin cuz ull oxygenate the oil causing blackheads . But do use over pimple to oxygenate pimple
141
Phenol?
Phenol functional group Very antimicrobial Smell or taste very stimulating
142
Beta or poly glucan?
``` Active ingredient Means two or many sugars Dry mature skin Stimulating increase circulation and stimulating Most common product for dry mature ```
143
Phenol ?
Functional group Also ends with ol More anti microbial and stimulating than alcohol group and cam be spicey
144
Hyauloronic acid derived from ?
Roster combs or Vicks ingredient that holds several thousand times its weight in water Good binder of water helps to hydrate topically
145
Clay?
``` Active ingredient If blended with oil its mineralizing If blended with water mineralizing and not only does it pull oil also water Must b careful not to dehydrate Derived from the earth ```
146
Types of clay ?
``` Kaolin Bentonite Fullers earth Diatamaceous earth Green clay ```
147
Kaolin ?
Active ingredient Light Clay A lot of zing and minerals Don't use water on mature dry skin use oil
148
Bentonite , Fullers earth and diatomaceous earth ?
Light brown clay Found in north and South America Also mineralizing
149
Green clay ?
``` Clay Active ingredient Found in Asia A lot of chlorophyll ( makes it green) Very purifying Someone with acne ```