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Term Two > cosmetic chemistry > Flashcards

cosmetic chemistry Flashcards

1
Q

Cosmetics

A

-articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled
or otherwise applied to the body for cleansing,
beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the
appearance

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2
Q

Functional ingredient

A
  • allow products to spread, give them body and texture

- vehicles

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3
Q

Performance ingredients

A
  • cause an actual change in skin
  • referred to by their activity
  • active or key ingredients
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4
Q

water as an ingredient

A

both a vehicle (functional) and a performance

as vehicle = helps keep ingredients in solution and helps to spread

as performance = water replenishes moisture

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5
Q

Emulsions

A
  • mixture of oil and water

- found in almost all cosmetic products

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6
Q

oil in water emulsion

A
  • most common

- oil in mostly water

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7
Q

water in oil emulsion

A

-water in a base of mostly oil

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8
Q

anhydrous products

A
  • products that do not contain any water
  • oil serums
  • silicone serums
  • petroleum based products
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9
Q

Emmollients

A
  • Almost always fatty agents
  • natural or synthetic
  • oils, fatty esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, silicone, waxes

As vehicle = place, spread and help keep other agents on the skin

As performance = lubricate, create a seal that prevents dehydration by trapping water to increase moisture in the epidermis

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10
Q

lanolin

A
  • emollient
  • animal fats
  • sheep skin secretion
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11
Q

fatty esters

A

-emollient
-from fatty acids and alcohols
-almost always end in a-t-e
-often feel better than natural oils and have better ability
to lubricate evenly

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12
Q

fatty acids

A

-emollient
-lubricants derived from triglycerides (plant oils or anilmal
fats)
-give cream soft feel, smooth texture, help other products
adhere to skin

ex, stearic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid

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13
Q

fatty alcohols

A

-fatty acids exposed to hydrogen
-not drying like other alcohols such as isopropyl
-

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14
Q

silicones

A

-derived from minerals
-provide excellent protection but also allow oxygen in and
out of follicles
-no greasy feel and often used in “oil free products”

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15
Q

mineral oil and petroleum

A

-come from the earth
-non reactive and biologically inert (do not react with other
chemicals involved in the skins function)
-can be used without preservatives because they do not
harbour bacteria or other organisms

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16
Q

surfactants

A

-chemicals that reduce surface tension between the skins
surface and the product.
-increase spreadability

2 types:

detergent and emulsifiers

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17
Q

Detergents

A
  • type of surfactant
  • primarily used in cleaning products
  • reduce surface tension of oil and dirt on skins surface
  • helps lift oil and dirt off the skin
  • cause cleansers to foam
  • if too strong or in too large concentration they can damage lipid barrier function of skin
  • can cause skin to feel dry
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18
Q

products from base to least

A 
base product = water and oil and emulsifier
emollient
preservatives
thickeners/texturizers
pH factors - buffering agents
hydrating agents
fragrance/colour/essential oils
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19
Q

examples of detergents

A

lauryl sulfate or sodium lauryl sulfate (good cleanser but an irritant)

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20
Q

Emulsifiers

A

keep oils and water blended in a product
(they surround oil particles allowing them to stay
distributed throughout the water)

added to the oil or water phase

21
Q

oil soluble

A

Materials compatible with oil are mixed in with the oil.

They are mixed into the oil phase of the product.

22
Q

water soluble

A

substances that compatible with and water are mixed into the water phase of the product

23
Q

Preservatives

A

work to prevent bacteria and other microorganisms from living in the product

-are either toxic or release substances that are poison to the microorganism

-some protect products from chemical change
ex, antioxidant

24
Q

Antioxidant as preservative

A
  • protect product from chemical changes (functional)
  • inhibit oxidation or reactions promoted by oxygen or peroxides
  • work by chemically stopping free radicals from attacking oils in product
  • also work to help condition of the skin (performance)
  • used with microencapsulation which prevents antioxidant from neutralizing before it gets onto skin and helps penetrate the skin more easily

ex. Vitamins A, C, E
Benzoic acid *

25
Q

examples of antioxidants as a preservative

A

Vitamins A,C,E

Benzoic acid

26
Q

Thickeners or texturizers

A
  • ingredients used to thicken products
  • help to suspend ingredients that are tough to mix into a product
  • create gel products
ex. carbomer
      cellulose fibre 
      cellulose gum 
      algin
      corn starch
      xanthan gum
27
Q

pH scale in product

A

measures concentration of hydrogen ions in substance
-variations in pH scale can damage barrier function of the skin
-

28
Q

buffering agents

A

added to products to keep pH at correct level

examples of acidifiers
citric acid
lactic acid

examples of alkaline buffers
sodium hydroxide
ammonium hydroxide

29
Q

Hydrators

A

Hydrophilc or humectants
attract water to skins surface
lock water on the skin

ex, glycerin 
      sodium PCA*
      propylene glycol
      hyaluronic acid*
      algae extract*
      seaweed extract* 
      sorbitol
30
Q

humectants

A

aka hydrators or hydrophilic (water loving)

31
Q

colour ingredients

A
  1. certified (inorganic)
    don’t contain carbon
    known as metal salts or lakes
    yellow, blue, red, orange, green (more intense)
2. non certified (organic)
        contain carbon
        less intense
        less transparent/more coverage
        zinc oxide, iron oxide, carmine, mica, ultramarine 
        mineral makeup
32
Q

Mineral makeup

A

non certified (organic colour)
adheres to oil in skin
works as natural sunscreen

33
Q

exfoliation ingredients

A

exfoliation of the stratum corneum

  1. mechanical
  2. chemical
34
Q

Mechanical exfoliating ingredients

A

rub of dead skin cells

35
Q

chemical exfoliating ingredients

A

acids and enzymes

  1. Hydroxy acids (alpha and beta)
    -work by loosening the bonds between cells on
    surface of stratum corneum
    -ex. glycolic, malic, tartaric, citric, lactic, salycilic,
    mandelic
  2. Enzymes
    -work by dissolving keratin in the surface of stratum
    corneum
    -ex. Papain, bromelain, pancreatin
36
Q

two types of mask

A

Setting and non setting

37
Q

masks

A
  • can be blended with most performance ingredients

- create an occlusive seal therefore intensive effect

38
Q

setting mask

A

harden and dry after exposure to air

  • cleansing,
  • remove surface cells,
  • absorb sebum
  • increase penetration of products applied under mask
  • firm skin by trapping moisture

examples of ingredients used

  • bentonite
  • diatomaceous earth
  • parraffin
  • zinc oxide
39
Q

non setting mask

A

do not harden

  • moisturizing
  • soothing
  • absorbing sebum
40
Q

Delivery systems

A

chemical techniques using vehicles to make products work

41
Q

physical sunscreen

A

act by reflecting light

42
Q

chemical sunscreen

A

act by absorbing light

43
Q

Enzymes

A

-chemical method of exfoliation
-proteolytic (they digest proteins)
obtained from plant and animal sources

44
Q

Hydroxy Acids

A

-derived from sugar molecules
-work by releasing “intercellular glue” holding skin cells
together.
-cells slough off causing a more rapid transformation og
basal cells into keratinocytes, speeding of their migration
to the stratum corneum
-AHA
-BHA

45
Q

AHA

A

-alpha hydroxy acid:
-refers to hydroxyl group connected to the first carbon
atom on sugar chain
-shown to increase GAGS and fibroblasts activity,
producing collagen and elastin to strengthen and firm the
skin
water soluble
-goof for dry skin

46
Q

types of AHAs

A 
citric acid
malic acid
tartaric acid
glycolic acid
lactic acid
47
Q

types of BHA

A

salicylic acid

48
Q

BHA

A
  • beta hydroxyl acid
  • hyroxyl group connected to the second carbon atom on sugar chain
  • lipid soluble
  • gets into pores

Term Two (3 decks)

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