Coasts part 2- landforms, management and SL Flashcards
Factors affecting rate of erosion
-Waves
-Rock type/structure
-Sub-aerial processes
-Presence/absence of a beach
-Coastal management
Development
How different processes operate to change the physical characteristics of an area
Landscape
The big picture; entirety of the sea, coast and rolling countryside
Landforms
Individual components of the landscape; cliffs, wave cut platform etc.
3 ways of classifying coastlines
-Concordant and discordant
-Cliffed coast, flat coast, graded shoreline
-Emergent or submergent coastline
Discordant coastline
Rock bands alternate between hard and soft rock and are at a right angle to the coastline
Headlands and bays on a discordant coastline
Differential erosion of hard and soft rock results in bas being created where soft rock was and leaving headlands jutting out into the sea
Concordant coastline
Alternating bands of hard and soft rock that run parallel to the coastline
Headlands and bays on a concordant coastline
Waves break through a weaker crack in the hard rock and create bays as the soft rock erodes faster
What is a cliff
A mass of resistant rock
What is a wave cut platform
A gently sloping platform of rock stretching out from the cliff to the sea (with an angle of less then 5 degrees)
Formation of a cliff
Land is weathered and eroded through hydraulic action and abrasion to create a drop between the land and the sea
Formation of a wave cut platform
Waves focus erosion between the high and low tide levels through abrasion and hydraulic action. This leads to a wave cut notch growing until the cliff is completely undercut
What is a geo
A narrow, steep sided inlet or gorge typically found on hard rock cliffs
Formation of a geo
Created when a fault line is differently eroded to form a gully, though it may begin as a sea cove. Faults are enlarged by ,marine erosion through hydraulic action and abrasion
What is a blowhole
Vertical clefts or splits in coastal cliffs which link sea caves to the cliff top
Formation of a blowhole
Formed along coastlines due to hydraulic action; incoming waves trap and compress air within a cave and repeated force can puncture the roof of the cave and water and spray will be driven through the roof of the cave.
Swash aligned beaches
Sediment moves up and down the beach with little lateral transfer; this happens when the waves break parallel making curved and concave beaches.
Drift aligned beaches
Produced where waves break at an angle to the coast; swash occurs at an angle but backwash is perpendicular to the beach. Material is transferred by longshore drift.
Shingle beach profiles
Steeper as more water drains between the air bubbles between the rocks making the backwash less effective at dragging sediment down the beach. Sediment is also harder to move on a shingle beach.
Sandy beach profile
More gentle profile due to sediment being lighter and easier to move.
What is a berm
Ridge of sand indicating the high tide mark
Formation of a berm
Constructive waves push sediment up the beach and deposit it
formation of sand ripples
Formed as the tide goes out, only on sandy beaches and only visible at low tide
What are runnels and ridges
Naturally raised sand are ridges and runnels are the water between ridges
Formation of runnels and ridges
Naturally raised sand forces waves to slow down and deposit sand leaving water to get trapped in the runnels
What is a cusp
Shoreline formation made up of various grades of sediment in an arc pattern
Formation of a cusp
Form in bays as the tide comes in, waves refract, energy spreads out so some areas have a stronger swash
What is a barrier beach
Where a beach or spit extends across a bay to join two headlands; they can also trap water behind them to form lagoons
Formation of a barrier beach
Barrier beaches on the South coast of England are believed to have been deposited following a rise of sea levels after the last glacial period. Longshore drift has added more material and has reworked the sediment.
What is an offshore bar
Bar is a generic term for a range of sediment accumulations in a coastal area; elongated deposits of sand or shingle, often lying parallel to the coastline
Formation of an offshore bar
Sand and shingle is deposited int one area by longshore drift, they are only visible at low tide
What is a barrier island
Island of sand and shingle, with a series of dune ridges on the seaward face.
Formation of a barrier island
Sand accumulates on an offshore bare eventually making it visible at all times, tidal currents can seep through into the lagoon behind. Tidal currents and river flows in the lagoon can lead to erosion and deposition
What is a spit
An accumulation of sediment off a coastline that juts out into the sea
Formation of a spit
Formed by longshore drift on low energy coastlines
What is a tombolo
A beach or ridge of sand and shingle that’s formed between a small island and the mainland
Formation of a tombolo
Deposition occurs when waves lose their energy and the tombolo begins the build up, they may be covered at high tide