Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

Wavelength

A

The distance between two successive crests or troughs

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2
Q

Wave height

A

The distance between the trough and the crest

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3
Q

Wave frequency

A

The number of waves per minute

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4
Q

Velocity

A

The speed of a travelling wave - influence by wind, fetch and water depth

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5
Q

Fetch

A

The amount of open water over which a wave has passed

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6
Q

Swash

A

The movement of water up the beach

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7
Q

Backwash

A

The movement of water down the beach

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8
Q

What are the two different types of waves?

A

Constructive and destructive waves

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9
Q

What characterises constructive waves?

A

Sediment is transported landwards

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10
Q

What characterises destructive waves?

A

Sediment is dragged seawards

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11
Q

Longshore drift

A

Waves move up the beach in one direction, but the waves draining back down the beach take a different route; this action tends to transport materials along the beach

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12
Q

TYPES OF EROSION: Hydraulic action

A

Occurs as waves hit or break against a cliff face

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13
Q

TYPES OF EROSION: Abrasion

A

The process of breaking wave hurling materials, such as pebbles or shingle, against a cliff face

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14
Q

TYPES OF EROSION: Attrition

A

The process in which eroded material, such as broken rock, is worn down to form smaller, rounder beach material.

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15
Q

TYPES OF EROSION: Solution

A

Occurs on limestone and chalk. Calcium carbonate, a salt found in these rocks, dissolves slowly in acidic water.

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16
Q

What are a few features of erosion?

A
  • cliffs
  • caves
  • arches
  • stacks
  • stumps
  • wave cut platform
17
Q

Beach (the technical term ;-)

A

The term beach refers to the accumulation of material deposited between low spring tides and the highest point reached by storm waves at high spring tides.

18
Q

HWM

A

High water mark - the level reached by the sea at high tide.

19
Q

LWM

A

Low water mark - the level reached by the sea at low tide

20
Q

What are the three zones of a ‘typical beach’?

A
  • backshore
  • foreshore
  • offshore
21
Q

Backshore

A

Marked by a line of dunes or a cliff

22
Q

Foreshore

A

Exposed at low tide

23
Q

Offshore

A

Waves touch the sea bed, material is usually disturbed and sometimes pushed up as offshore bars

24
Q

Spit

A

A beach of sand or shingle linked at one end to land.

25
Q

Tombolos

A

Ridges that link the mainland to an island

26
Q

Succession

A

The growth of new plants

27
Q

What are coral reefs?

A

Coral reefs are calcium carbonate structures, made up of reef-building stony corals

28
Q

Fringing reefs

A

These are the reefs that fringe the coast of a landmass

29
Q

Barrier reefs

Example: the Great Barrier Reef

A

Occur at a greater distance from shore than fringing reefs and are typically separated from it by a deep, wide lagoon

30
Q

Atoll reefs

A

Rise from submerged volcanic foundations

31
Q

Mangroves

A

Mangroves are salt-tolerant forests of trees and shrubs that grow in the tidal estuaries and coastal zones of tropical areas

32
Q

What has been named one of the most dangerous natural hazards to people and the environment?

A

Hurricanes (in Asia, also known as tropical cyclones)

33
Q

What do hurricanes do?

A

Move excess heat from low latitudes to higher latitudes

34
Q

FUN FACT ABOUT HURRICANES

A

The path of a hurricane is erratic, so it is not always possible to give more than 12 hours notice.

35
Q

What is the lowest windspeed of a hurricane?

A

A storm is not classed as a hurricane unless it has a wind speed of over 118 km/hr