Coasts Flashcards
What is the littoral zone
The wider coastal zone including adjacent land areas and shallow parts of the sea just offshore
What four zones can the can the littoral zone be divided into
Backshore: This is the inland limit of the beach and the waves only reach this area during exceptionally high tides
Foreshore: This is the area between the high tide and the low tide mark
Nearshore: The area of shallow water beyond the low tide mark, within which friction between the seabed and waves distort the wave sufficiently to cause it to break.
Offshore: The area of deeper water beyond the point at which waves begin to break. However, friction between the waves and the sea bed may cause some distortion of the wave shape
Explain the three different types of coastal landscape
Rocky, cliffed coastline
Areas of high relief varying from a few metres to hundreds of metres in height
Usually form in areas with resistive geology, in a high energy environment, where erosion is greater than deposition
At low tide the foreshore is exposed as a rocky platform (wave-cut platform)
Sandy coastline
Areas of low relief with sand dunes and beaches, that are much flatter
Usually found in areas with: less resistant geology, a low energy environment, where deposition is greater than erosion and there are constructive waves
At high tide the sandy beach in inundates, but vegetated dunes are not
Dune vegetation plays a crucial role in stabilising sandy coastlines and preventing erosion
Estuarine coastline
These are areas of low relief with salt marshes and mudflats (estuaries)
They form in: river mouths, low energy environments and where there is less resistant rock
Estuaries are usually exposed at low tide, but inundated at high tide
This type of coastline gradually transitions from land to sea
What are sub-aerial processes
This refers to the processes of weathering and mass movement
What are the three factors involved with sub-aerial processes
Weathering: The chemical, biological and mechanical breakdown of rocks into smaller fragments and new minerals
Mass movement: landslides slumps and rocks falls, all of which move material downslope under the influence of gravity.
Surface run-off: water, usually during heavy rain, flowing down the cliff face and causing erosion of it.
What factors can determine a rocks resistance to erosion and weathering
How reactive minerals in the rock are when exposed to chemical weathering; calcite (found in limestone) can be weathered by solution, whereas quartz (found in sandstone) is not subject to chemical weathering
Weather rocks are clastic (sedimentary rocks like sandstone, made of cemented sediment particles) or crystalline (igneous and metamorphic rocks, made of interlocking crystals); the latter are more erosion resistant
The degree to which rocks have cracks, fractures and fissures, which are weaknesses exploited by the forces of weathering and erosion
What are coastal plains
These are low-lying, low energy, low-relief areas close to the coast
Describe coastal plains
- Many coastal plains contain wetlands and marshes because they are only just above sea level and poorly drained sue to the flatness of the landscape
- They are often formed in two ways: the result of a fall in sea level, or the coastal accretion where the coastline moves seaward due to the deposition of sediment from land
- They are maintained in dynamic equilibrium by the deposition of sediment from river systems and the erosion by marine action at the coast
What is coastal accretion
The deposition of sediment at the coast and the seaward growth of the coastline, creating new land. It often involves sediment deposition being stabilised by vegetation
What is Dynamic equilibrium
The balanced state of a system when inputs and outputs balance over time If one element of the system changes because of an outside influence, the internal equilibrium of the system is upset and other components of the system change
Describe Concordant coastlines and the features found at them
- Concordant coasts have geological strata that runs parallel to the coast
- The outer hard rocks (e.g. granite) provides a protective barrier to erosion of the softer rocks (e.g. clays) that are further inland
- Sometimes, the outer hard rock is punctured, this allows the sea to erode the softer rocks behind it to erode\
- Subsequently, a cove is produced (a circular area of water with a relatively narrow entrance from the sea)
Explain two examples of Concordant coastlines
Coast of Dalmatia, Croatia, Adriatic Sea
- Geology is limestone
- It has been folded by tectonic activity into
a series of anticlines and synclines that
trend parallel to the modern coastline - This underlying structure has been
drowned by rising sea levels to create a
concordant coastline of long, narrow
islands arranged in lines offshore
Lulworth Cove, Dorset
- The outer hard rock is limestone
- The sea has broken through this barrier
and easily eroded the clays behind it - A chalk cliff face at the back of the cove
slows further erosion - This has allowed the formation of a cove
Describe Discordant coastlines and the features found at them
- Form when different rock strata intersect
the coast at a perpendicular angle - The differing erosion leads to the
formation of headlands and bays - Less resistant rocks are eroded to form
bays whereas more resistant geology
remains as headlands
Why is there little erosion at discordant coastlines?
In deep water wave crests are parallel
As waves approach the shallow water offshore of a headland they slow down and wave height increases
In bays, wave crests curve to fill the bay and wave height decreases
The straight wave crests refract, becoming curved, spreading into out in bays and concentrating on headlands
The overall effect of wave refraction is to concentrate powerful waves at headlands (meaning greater erosion) and create lower, diverging wave crests at bays, reducing erosion
Explain two examples of discordant coastlines
Dorset Coastline
- The limestone is resistant to erosion; then
to the north at Swanage bay the rock
type is softer greensand - North of Swanage, the chalk outcrop
creates the headland which includes Old
Harry Rocks
West Cork coast of Ireland
- Rock strata that include: Limestone, Mudstone and sandstone meet the coastline 90 degrees in parallel bands - Weak rocks have been eroded, creating elongated, narrow bays, whereas more- resistant rocks for headlands - Especially resistant areas remain as detached islands
What influences a Cliff profile
Cliff profiles are influenced by several different aspects of geology – three characteristics are dominant
Geological structures such as dip, faulting,
joints and folding
Explain how dip influences the features of a Cliff profile
Dip refers to the angle of rock strata in relation to the horizontal
- There are four types of dip:
1. Horizontal dip – vertical profile with notches reflecting strata that are more easily eroded
2. Seaward dip (low angle) –sliders down the dip slope
3. Seaward dip (high angle) – profile may exceed 90 degrees producing areas of overhanging rock; very vulnerable to rock falls
4. Landward dip – steep profile of 70 to 80 degrees producing a very stable cliff with reduced rock falls
Explain how faulting influences the features of a Cliff profile
- Represents major weaknesses within rock
layers (cracks in crust) - Either side of a fault line, rocks are often
heavily fractured and broken and these
weaknesses are exploited by marine
erosion
Explain how jointing influences the features of a Cliff profile
- Occur in most rocks, often in regular
patterns, dividing rock strata up into
blocks with a regular shape
Explain how Folding influences the features of a Cliff profile
- Folding occurs due to crust compression
- Horizontal strata can be folded into a
series anticlines and synclines
What are the three different types of rock
- Igneous
- Metamorphic
- Sedimentary
Describe igneous rocks giving examples
Granite
Basalt
Dolerite
- Erode VERY SLOWLY
- Igneous rocks are formed from cooled
magma - They are crystalline; the interlocking
crystals make for strong, hard erosion-
resistant rock - Igneous rocks such as granite often have
few joints, so there are limited
weaknesses that erosion can exploit
Describe metamorphic rocks giving examples
Slate
Marble
- Erode SLOWLY
- Crystalline metamorphic rocks are
resistant to erosion - Many metamorphic rocks exhibit a feature
called foliation where crystals are all
orientated in one direction, which
produced weaknesses - Metamorphic rocks are often folded and
heavily fractured, which are weaknesses
that erosion can exploit
Describe sedimentary rocks giving examples
Sandstone
Limestone
Shale
- Erode MODERATE to FAST
- Most sedimentary rocks are clastic and
erode faster than crystalline igneous and
sedimentary rocks - The age of sedimentary rocks is
important; geologically young rocks tend
to be weaker - Rocks with many bedding places and
fractures; such as shale, are often the
most vulnerable to erosion