Coasts Flashcards
Define ‘Littoral Zone’
Wider coastal zone - includes coastal land and shallow parts of sea
What are the five sections of the Littoral Zone?
Coast > Backshore > Foreshore > Nearshore > Offshore
Differentiate between Emergent and Submergent coasts
Emergent - Coasts rising relative to sea level
Submergent - Sea level is higher than coast, flooding occurring
Define low energy and high energy coasts
Low energy - Sheltered, limited wave fetch, low wind speeds mean smaller waves
High energy - Exposed, high winds, longer fetch, bigger waves
Differentiate between Discordant and Concordant Coastlines
Discordant - Differing rock types, running at a 90 degree angle to the coast, create uneven coastline, less resistant rock eroded to form bays, more resistant rock remains as headlands
Concordant - Different rock strata run parallel to the coast, vary in terms of resistance
What is a cliff profile and what 2 things influence it most?
Cliff Profile - Height & angle of a cliff face, plus other features, e.g. wave cut notches
Influenced by resistance to erosion of its rock type(s) and the dip (angle) of the rock in relation to the coastline
Describe 3 different kind of dips, and their effect on the cliff profile
Horizontal Dip - Vertical profile, notches reflect less resistant strata
Seaward dip high angle - Sloping towards sea, one rock layer facing the sea, vulnerable to rock slides down the slope
Seaward dip low angle - Profile may exceed 90 degrees, areas of overhanging rock, very vulnerable to rock falls
What is the other major factor that affects cliff profiles?
Permeability of the rock strata - More permeable rock means groundwater infiltration, creating weaknesses
What are the three rock types that influence coastal recession?
1) Igneous - Very slow erosion rate, crystalline rock, limited weaknesses that erosion can exploit
2) Metamorphic - Slow erosion rate, also crystalline however often folded and heavily fractured, forming weaknesses
3) Sedimentary - Moderate/Fast rate, geologically young rocks (weaker)
How can permeability of rock strata affect erosion rates?
If the rock is permeable groundwater can weaken it by removing binding cement. Can also create pore water pressure (internal) within the cliff, affects stability
How does coastal vegetation protect against recession?
Roots bind sediment particles together, makes them harder to erode
Submerged plants form a protective layer, ensure sediment is not directly exposed to water/erosion
Define ‘Plant Succession’
The changing structure of a plant community over time, as
areas of bare sediment are colonised
What are the factors affecting wave size?
Strength of the wind
Water Depth
Wave fetch (the distance waves have to grow in size)
Differentiate between Constructive and Destructive waves
Constructive - Strong swash (flow of water up beach), sediment pushed up the beach
Destructive - Strong Backwash (water draining down the beach into the sea), sediment eroded & deposited offshore
Why do wave types frequently vary?
Storms bring destructive waves, subside over the day and become constructive
Seasonal changes - Summer (constructive) vs Destructive (destructive)
Changes to climate - e.g. global warming bringing more storm seasons
What are the four main processes that cause erosion?
Hydraulic Action - Waves compress air trapped within rocks, internal pressure forces cracks open, dislodges rocks from the cliff face
Abrasion - Sediment picked up by waves, thrown against cliff face, chiselling away at the surface
Attrition - Sediment slowly chipped away at/ made smaller over time, as it is transported around
Corrosion - Carbonate (limestone) rocks are vulnerable to solution by rainwater, seawater etc.