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Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

The coastal system is an … System

A

Open

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2
Q

Inputs in the coastal system

A

Precipitation
Wind
Fluvial sediment

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3
Q

Flows/processes in the coastal system

A

LSD
Erosion
Mass movement
Evaporation

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4
Q

Stores and components of the coastal system

A

Beaches
Sand dunes
Spits
Bars

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5
Q

Outputs of the coastal system

A 
Headlands
Bays
Wave cut platforms
Ocean currents
Evaporation
RIP tides
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6
Q

Negative feedback of the coastal system

A

Mass movement decreasing cliff foot erosion

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7
Q

Positive feedback in the coastal system

A

Coastal management increasing erosion elsewhere

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8
Q

Terrestrial factors influencing the coastline

A 
Tectonics
Sun-aerial processes
Glaciations
Supply of sediment
Fluvial processes
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9
Q

Marine processes influencing the coastline

A 
Bionic features eg reefs
Wave shape/size
Fetch
Sea level change
Wave direction
Tides
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10
Q

Human intervention factors influencing the coastline

A 
Industrial and residential development
Sea defences
Conservation
Tourism and recreation
Global warming
Pollution
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11
Q

Atmospheric factors influencing the coastline

A 
Winds
Precipitation 
Temperature
Solar energy 
Global warming
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12
Q

Define dynamic equalibrium

A

A system in dynamic equalibrium has inputs and outputs of energy and matter that balance

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13
Q

Dynamic equalibrium is affected by:

A

Supply of sand ie conservation
Energy of waves
Sea level change ie global warming
Location of the shoreline eg managed retreat

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14
Q

Define landform

A

Individual features which are created by coastal processes eg stacks, wave cut platforms, and spits

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15
Q

Define landscapes

A

The entire area of sea, coastline, and immediate land behind the sea front. Within the landscape are characteristic landforms

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16
Q

Sources of coastal energy

A

Waves
Wind
Currents
Tides

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17
Q

As with all Earth systems the initial energy input for the coastal system is…

A

From the sun

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18
Q

How does the sun’s energy cause other forms of energy in the coastal system

A

It causes different air pressures (due to different rates of heating) which creates wind, this wind then generates waves which are the main form of energy

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19
Q

How is wind formed

A

Air moving between areas of high pressure to low pressure (along a pressure gradient)

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20
Q

How does the pressure gradient affect wind speed

A

The steeper the gradient the faster the wind moves

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21
Q

How does the strength of the wind influence wave energy

A

The stronger the wind the bigger the wave

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22
Q

How does fetch influence wave energy

A

The shorter the fetch the smaller the wave (less distance to gain energy)

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23
Q

How does the duration of the wind influence wave energy

A

The longer the wind has been blowing , the longer time the waves have to gain energy

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24
Q

How do waves form

A

Diagram look it up idk

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25
Q

Why are some areas of the uk subject to more powerful waves than other areas

A

Fetch is longest in South West and shortest in South East
South West prevailing wind
South West is a high energy coast
South West not heavily eroded due to rock type

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26
Q

Constructive wave components

A

Low wave
Long wavelength
Strong swash

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27
Q

What are the processes associated with constructive waves

A

Deposition and LSD

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28
Q

How are constructive waves formed

A

Distant weather systems

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29
Q

Landforms made by constructive waves

A

Beaches, spits, and bars

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30
Q

Which waves never reach the back of the beach (backshore)

A

Constructive

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31
Q

Destructive wave components

A

Tall in relation to length
Steep beach profile
Strong backwash

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32
Q

What are the processes associated with destructive waves

A 
Erosion
Mass movement (cliff erosion and undercutting)
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33
Q

When are destructive waves most common

A

During winter storms

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34
Q

Features created by destructive waves

A

Wave cut platforms
Cave
Arch
Stack

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35
Q

What are tides

A

Periodic rise and fall in the level of the sea caused by the gravitational pull of the sun and the moon

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36
Q

Both the … and … of the tides change on a daily basis based on the position of the sun and the moon relative to the Earth

A

Time and size

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37
Q

Why are spring tides exceptionally high

A

The gravitational pull from the sun and moon is in the same direction which means there is more force

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38
Q

Why are neap tides very low

A

The sun and the moon are pulling in different directions

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39
Q

Why is knowledge of tides essential for coastal management

A

Tides could go over groynes or sea wall and make them useless

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40
Q

Which process is more evident in high energy coastlines? Erosion or deposition

A

Erosion exceed deposition

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41
Q

Which process is more evident in low energy coastlines? Erosion or deposition

A

Deposition exceeds erosion

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42
Q

Where in the Uk are high energy coastlines mostly found and why

A

Atlantic facing eg Cornwall because there is a large fetch so high energy waves

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43
Q

Landforms associated with low energy coastlines

A

Sheltered areas eg bays

Beaches and spits

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44
Q

Landforms found in high energy coastlines

A

Cliffs and headlands

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45
Q

What is the tidal range

A

How long wave processes can act on a cliff face for

Small range means more focused on the same area for longer and so more erosion

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46
Q

What is tidal current

A

The horizontal movement of water accompanying the rise and fall of tides

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47
Q

Flood current definition

A

The incoming tide along the coast and into the bays and estuaries

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48
Q

Define the ebb current

A

The outgoing tide

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49
Q

When do the strongest flood and ebb current occur

A

Before or near the time of the high and low tides when water levels are closest to their highest/lowest value

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50
Q

Slack tides definition

A

The weakest currents occurring between the flood and ebb currents

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51
Q

Where are currents strongest

A

Near estuary entrances, narrow straits, and inlets

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52
Q

What do large tidal ranges do

A

Provide energy via tidal currents and transport sediment

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53
Q

What do small tidal ranges do

A

Concentrated erosion at the cliff base

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54
Q

What are orthogonals?

A

They show the direction of energy

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55
Q

What causes wave refraction?

A

The shape of the sea bed means that the waves hit shallower water at different times, shallower water means slower waves

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56
Q

Where is the area of high wave energy? Headland or bay

A

Headland

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57
Q

Define sediment cell

A

A stretch of coastline within which sediment movement is more or less contained

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58
Q

Give an example of a sediment cell

A

Flamborough Head (eastern coast of England)

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59
Q

Sources of sediment

A

Rivers
Cliff erosion
Offshore sediment
Wind

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60
Q

Where does most of the sediment come from

A

Rivers

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61
Q

What type of rock does Cornwall have

A

Tough, igneous granite

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62
Q

Rates of cliff erosion along the Holderness Coast in Lincolnshire can be as high as…

A

10m/year

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63
Q

How is offshore sediment transported into the coastal zone?

A

Waves
Tides
Currents
Storm surges

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64
Q

Define geomorphological

A

Changing Earth - sub aerial and marine processes

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65
Q

What are geomorphological sub-aerial processes

A

Weathering
Run off
Mass movement

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66
Q

What are geomorphological marine processes

A

Erosion
Transportation
Deposition

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67
Q

How does geographical location determine the type and rate of weathering

A

Wildlife - burrowing animals so more physical
Climate
Rock type

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68
Q

Positive feedback example in weathering

A

If the rate of debris removal exceeds the rate of weathering and mass movement then the latter will increase

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69
Q

Example of negative feedback in weathering

A

If debris removal is slow more will build up so weathering and mass movement rates will decrease as cannot get to the cliff

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70
Q

Define mass movement

A

The downhill movement of weathered material under the force of gravity

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71
Q

Define biological weathering

A

The breakdown of rocks by organic activity I.e. plants, animals

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72
Q

Define chemical weathering

A

Involves a chemical reaction where salts may be dissolved

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73
Q

Define mechanical/physical weathering

A

Involves the break up of rocks without any chemical changing taking place

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74
Q

Give examples of biological weathering

A

Tap roots
Burrowing animals
Water running through decaying vegetation becomes acidic

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75
Q

Give examples of chemical weathering

A

Carbonation
Oxidation
Solution

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76
Q

Give examples of mechanical weathering

A

Frost shattering
Salt crystallisation
Setting and drying

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77
Q

What are the types of mass movement

A 
Solifluction
Mudflow
Run off
Landslide
Rock fall
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78
Q

Factors affecting the rate of erosion

A 
Lithology
Waves
Sea defences
Discordant/concordat coastline
Season
Tidal range
Geological structure
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79
Q

What are the methods of transportation

A

Saltation
Solution
Traction
Suspension

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80
Q

Define traction

A

Large particles like boulders are pushed along the sea bed by the force of the water

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81
Q

Define suspension

A

Small particles like silt or clay are carried along in the water

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82
Q

Define saltation

A

Pebble sized particles are bounced along the sea bed by the force of water

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83
Q

Define solution

A

Soluble materials dissolve in the water and are carried along

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84
Q

What determines the method of transportation of sediment

A

Size of particle

Energy of waves/water

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85
Q

Another name for LSD

A

Littoral drift

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86
Q

Deposition in high energy coasts

A

Small particles are easily transported

Larger material is deposited forming shingle beaches

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87
Q

Deposition in low energy coasts

A

Even the smallest material deposited forming mudflats and salt marshes

88
Q

What are the processes of erosion

A 
Hydraulic action
Wave quarrying
Abrasion/corrasion 
Attrition
Solution/corrosion
89
Q

Define hydraulic action

A

The impact on rocks of the sheer force of the water which exerts a lot of pressure on the rock and so weakening it

90
Q

Define wave quarrying

A

A braking wave traps air in the cliff, air compressed, water retreats and pressure released so large areas removed

91
Q

Define abrasion

A

Eroded material being thrown against the rock by waves (wave cut platforms)

92
Q

Define attrition

A

Rocks which are carrying out abrasion are slowly worn down into smaller and rounder particles

93
Q

Define solution

A

Dissolving of rocks

94
Q

Concordant coastline

A

Parallel to the sea

95
Q

Example of a concordant coastline

A

South Purbeck, Dorset

96
Q

Discordant coastline

A

Perpendicular to the sea

97
Q

Example of discordant coastline

A

East Purbeck, Dorset

98
Q

What is the cliff profile

A

The gradient of the cliff

99
Q

How do sedimentary rocks form

A

Layers of deposited sediment, either on the beds of ancient oceans or rivers

100
Q

Sequence leading to stack

A 
Headland
Line of weakness
Cave
Arch
Stack
101
Q

Ridges in beaches

A

Accumulations of sand in lines where the sediment has been deposited

102
Q

Swash alligned

A

Sediment moves up and down the beach with little lateral transfer

103
Q

Drift alligned

A

LSD

104
Q

What are the two types of spit

A

Compound

Simple

105
Q

Compound spits

A

Barbs or hooks on their landward side

106
Q

Simple spits

A

Bars of sand without barbs or hooks

107
Q

What are barbs and hooks?

A

Secondary wind directions cause different LSD direction

108
Q

What are tombolos?

A

form in a similar way to spits but are unique because they join the main land to an offshore island via deposition

109
Q

Name a famous tombolo

A

Angel road of Shodo Island, Japan

110
Q

Name an UK example of a barrier beach

A

Slapton Sands

111
Q

Name a non-UK example of a barrier beach

A

Jupiter Island, Florida

112
Q

Name an UK example of barrier islands

A

Scolt Head Islands, Norfolk

113
Q

Name a non-UK example of barrier islands

A

Alabama barrier islands, Mississippi

114
Q

Name an UK example of offshore bars

A

Hordle Cliff offshore bar

115
Q

Name a non-UK example of offshore bars

A

Gulf of Mexico has some

116
Q

What are sand dunes

A

Accumilation of sand blown into mounds by the wind

117
Q

What is an aeolian formation

A

Formed by the wind

118
Q

Are sand dunes deposition landforms

A

Not officially because they are formed by deposition from the wind not the sea

119
Q

What do sand dunes need to form?

A

Flat beach

No secondary wind direction

120
Q

Types of sand dune

A 
Embryo dune
Fore dune
Main ridge
Grey dune
Dune slack
Dune health
Mature dune
121
Q

What are human threats to sand dunes

A 
Industrial pollution
Agricultural pollution
Dredging
Shipping
Grazing
122
Q

What component are marshes within the coastal system

A

Stores

123
Q

How are mudflats created

A

The deposition of fine salts and clays in sheltered low energy coastal environments such as esturies

124
Q

What are salt marshes

A

Areas of coastal grassland that is regularly flooded by seawater

125
Q

Required conditions for mudflats to form

A 
Low energy
Deposition
Sheltered area
No strong tides or currents
Where salt and freshwater meet
126
Q

Define pioneering species

A

The first plants to colonise an area e.g. eelgrass and cordgrass

127
Q

Define flocculation

A

Mud deposited close to high-tide line, dropping out of the water by flocculation where tiny particles of mud stick together such that their combined mass enables them to sink to the sea bed

128
Q

Define halophytes

A

Plants that tolerate salt water - have adapted

129
Q

Eustatic change

A

A global change in sea level resulting from a fall or rise in the level of the sea itself

130
Q

Isostatic change

A

Local changes in sea level resulting from the land rising and falling relative to the sea

131
Q

Causes of sea level rise

A

Thermal expansion and melting land ice

132
Q

Thermal expansion

A

Where the volume of water increases as it gets warmer

133
Q

When did the last glaciation end?

A

10 000 years ago

134
Q

What leads to a submergence coastline?

A

Land sinks and sea level rise

135
Q

What leads to an emergence coastline?

A

Land rise and sea level fall

136
Q

What is a rias?

A

A submergence coastline feature, submerged river valleys.

137
Q

Give an example of a rias?

A

Dartmoor

138
Q

What are marine platforms/terraces?

A

A wave cut platform which is higher than sea level and at the base of a relict cliff

139
Q

Give an example of a marine platform/terrace

A

Examples found in Scotland

140
Q

What are dalmation coasts?

A

A series of river valleys next to the coast which have been filled with water leaving parallel ridges as islands

141
Q

What are relict/fossil cliffs?

A

Emergent coastline feature
Weathering affects it not coastal erosion
An old cave showing features of caves etc

142
Q

Give an example of a relict/fossil cliff

A

Isle of Arran, Scotland

143
Q

What are fjords?

A

When a glacier retreats and the sea fills the valley floor

Submergence coastline feature

144
Q

Give an example of a fjord

A

Sognefjord, Norway

145
Q

What is a raised beach?

A

Emergent feature

Former wave cut platforms and their beaches are higher than the present coastline

146
Q

Give an example of a raised beach

A

Isle of arran, Scotland

147
Q

What is subsistence?

A

Coastal areas sinking due to excess ground level extraction which has the effect of making the sea level higher

148
Q

…% of the UK manufacturing industry lies close to the coast

A

40

149
Q

…million people live within the coastal zone

A

16.9

150
Q

Why does the coastline need managing?

A

Coastal erosion
Coastal flooding
Failure of former defences

151
Q

What’s a hold the line management strategy?

A

Maintain current defences or build new ones to ensure coastline stays where it is

152
Q

What’s an advance the line approach?

A

Build new defences seaward of existing

153
Q

What’s a retreat the line (managed retreat) approach?

A

Allow the coastline to retreat due to flooding and erosion but closely manage rate and location of this retreat

154
Q

The do nothing approach

A

Low value areas lift to natural coastal processes as not deemed viable to spend on defences

155
Q

Social things to consider when planning management strategies

A

Number of people directly impacted
History and culture
Employment/unemployment levels

156
Q

Political things to consider when planning management strategies

A

Voter opinion/importance
Why pays? - local/national government
relationships with other areas

157
Q

Economic things to consider when planning management strategies

A

Value of infrastructure and housing
Cost of businesses in the area
Cost of defences

158
Q

Environmental things to consider when planning management strategies

A

Valuable ecosystem
Is the environment common? (salt marshes are rare)
Pollution the defences will cause
Will there be damage elsewhere

159
Q

Hard engineering strategies

A 
Sea walls
Groynes
Gabions
Revetements
Barrages
Offshore reefs
160
Q

Soft engineering strategies

A 
Beach nourishment
Dune regeneration
Managed retreat
Land-use management
Do nothing
161
Q

What is a sea wall

A

At the foot of a cliff or at the top of a beach, usually have a curved face to reflect waves back at into the sea

162
Q

Advantages of sea walls

A

Effective prevention of erosion

They often have a promenade for people to walk along

163
Q

What are groynes

A

Built at right angles to the coast, they trap sediment being moved up the beach

164
Q

Advantages of groynes

A

Work with natural processes to build up the beach with increases tourist potential and protects the land behind it
Not too expensive

165
Q

What are revetements

A

Sloping structures placed at the foot of the cliff or top of beach, they break up the waves energy

166
Q

What are offshore reefs

A

A partly submerged rock barrier, designed to break up the waves before they reach the coast

167
Q

What is a cost benefit analysis?

A

(Carried out before a coastal management project is given the go ahead) it’s where costs are forecasted and compared with the expected benefits

168
Q

Define tangible costs

A

Where costs and benefits are known and can be given a monetary value

169
Q

Define intangible costs

A

Where costs may be difficult to asses but are important eg visual impact

170
Q

Historically, cost Benifit analysis were not conducted what issues may this have caused?

A

Other areas nearby may be affected
It could be a waste of money
Did not consider the intangible costs

171
Q

Define soft engineering

A

Works with nature and natural systems to protect the coast

172
Q

Define hard engineering

A

Making a physical change to the coastline using man made materials and/or structures

173
Q

How many SMPs (shoreline management plans) did the government create and what does this number represent?

A

22 (number of sediment cells)

174
Q

What is the purpose of SMPs?

A

Their purpose is to avoid affects further down the coastline when protecting one stretch

175
Q

What are ICZMs?

A

Integrated coastal zone management (they focus on sustainability and desires of different stake holders)

176
Q

What are the different stakeholder groups in ICZMs?

A 
Coastal residents
Local council/government 
National government 
Conservation groups
Local businesses 
Tourists
177
Q

Why are ICZMs more sustainable?

A

Focuses more on the future (economic and environmental effects) and by collecting information they can adapt to any changes and can make improvements

178
Q

What are some arguments for not protecting to coast at all?

A

Cost benifit analysis
Environmental impact now and future
Land may not be at risk
May impact other areas negatively

179
Q

What local coastal environment did I study?

A

Slapton sands

180
Q

What are the processes found at slapton sands?

A

LSD
Deposition
Erosion

181
Q

Evidence of coastal processes at work in slapton sands:

A 
Barrier beach
Beach
Stack/stumps
Cove
Wave cut platform
Headland/bay
182
Q

What is the name of the barrier beach found at slapton?

A

Slapton sands

183
Q

What is the name of the beach at slapton?

A

Beesands

184
Q

What is the name of the headland/bay at slapton?

A

Start point and start bay

185
Q

What is the name of the stacks/stumps at slapton?

A

Dancing beggars

186
Q

What is the name of that the cove at slapton?

A

Redlap cove

187
Q

What is the name of the wave cut platform at slapton?

A

Limpet rocks

188
Q

What is the fat place study I did and why?

A

Odisha, India because it has unique characteristics and setting

189
Q

Where is odisha?

A

East coast of India

Boarding the Bay of Bengal

190
Q

What type of climate does India have?

A

Seasonal ie monsoons

191
Q

Odisha is India’s 9th largest state by…

A

Area

192
Q

Odisha is India’s 11th largest state by…

A

Population

193
Q

How long is odisha’s straight coastline?

A

480km

194
Q

Describe odisha’s unique ecology:

A

Endangered olive ridley turtles
1435km^2 of mangrove forest (rare)
Chilika Lake which is salty but fresh in monsoons

195
Q

What is the dominant process occurring at Odisha?

A

Deposition so it’s a low energy coast

196
Q

How many rivers have mouths on the Odisha coastline?

A

6 so most of the sediment is fluvial

197
Q

Risks/difficulties in protecting the odisha coastline:

A

Increased rates of erosion
Vulnerable to storms, tsunamis, and rising sea levels
14.4% stable

198
Q

Why has there been increased rates in erosion in odisha?

A

Both natural and human factors (ie protecting infrastructure as many people live by the coast so rely on it)

199
Q

Rewards/benefits of protecting odisha’s coastline:

A

Potential for offshore generating of electricity
35% of coastline has resources which can be sold (eg metal deposits)
Fishing and agriculture industry vital to locals
Chilika Lake Bird Sanctuary has 159 species of bird

200
Q

How does planting of mangroves become a defence? (Odisha)

A

Make waves loose energy

Roots hold sediment together which stabilises the coast from erosion etc

201
Q

Why does a 14.4% stability in odisha’s coastline make it difficult to protect?

A

Difficult to decide which strategy
Long term investment is risky
Difficult to predict changes

202
Q

Where is Slapton Sands

A

Devon

203
Q

Length and age of seawall at Torcross

A

319 m it was built in 1979 rebuilt in 2000 by the environment Agency

204
Q

Height and age of sheet piling topped with concrete rocks just north of Torcross

A

143 m and 1979

205
Q

Where is the 795 meter revetment built in 1979

A

Between Torcross and the car park

206
Q

What protects the a 379 Road at Slapton Sands

A

Rock armour

207
Q

Why has beach nourishment not been used at Slapton Sands

A

£1.14 million to maintain so too expensive

208
Q

What future defences could be used at Slapton Sands

A

Shingle recycling

209
Q

How much of the odisha coastline is being eroded

A

36.8%

210
Q

What is affected by the accelerated rates of erosion at odisha in recent years

A

Habitats and coastal agriculture

211
Q

Hazards associated with the Odisha area

A

Tsunamis and tropical storms

212
Q

What is the long-term threat to the Odisha coastline

A

Sealevel rise

213
Q

What has been exploited in Odisha

A

Fish and minerals impacting the livelihoods of coastal populations

214
Q

Why do Tourists go to odisha

A

For the beaches and wildlife sanctuaries

215
Q

What sort of energy production is there a huge potential for at odisha

A

Wave offshore wind and tidal energy

216
Q

Percentage of the Odisha coastline is laden with mineral and heavy metal deposits

A

35%

physical geography (3 decks)

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