Coasts

Question 1

what are the two main movements of a wave

Answer 1

swashs and backwash

Question 2

what is swash

Answer 2

when the wave hits the beach

Question 3

what is backwash

Answer 3

water being pulled back into the ocean

Question 4

the formation and process of a wave

Answer 4

• wave starts at sea
• friction between wind and sea moves water inland
• particles move in a circular motion
• increasing friction between water and beach as it gets closer
• particles move in an elliptical motion
• top of waves becomes high, steep and topples over

Question 5

what is a constructive wave

Answer 5

strong swash

Question 6

what is a destructive wave

Answer 6

strong backwash

Question 7

characteristics of a constructive wave

Answer 7

• wave crests far apart
• 6 to 8 waves a min
• gentle sloping beaches
• breaking wave spills forwards
• deposition (build up of material)

Question 8

characteristics of a destructive wave

Answer 8

• wave crests close together
• 13 to 15 waves a min
• steep beaches
• breaking wave plunges downwards
• erosion (takes away material)

Question 9

what is mass movement

Answer 9

mass movement is lots of sedimented soil and rock moving in a short period of time

Question 10

four methods of transportation in order of how heavy the materials are that they carry

Answer 10

• traction (heavy boulders)
• saltation (pebbles and small stones)
• suspension (fine grains of sediment and sand)
• solution (boulders to fine grains)

Question 11

what is traction

Answer 11

the transportation of large boulders and rocks being rolled along the river bed (bedload)

Question 12

what is saltation

Answer 12

the transportation of small pebbles and stones being bounced along the river bed as they are alternatively lifted and dropped

Question 13

what is suspension

Answer 13

the transportation of fine light material being held up and carried within the rivers flow (suspended flow)

Question 14

what is solution

Answer 14

when minerals are dissolved in water which causes chemical changes that affect soft rocks like limestone (solute load)

Question 15

what is longshore drift

Answer 15

• longshore drift is a a type of erosional marine process - where the movement of material along a coast by waves come in at an acute angle
• and retracts from the coastline perpendicularly

Question 16

what does longshore drift do

Answer 16

• it deposits material at the corner of the coast

- creating spits

Question 17

process of longshore drift

Answer 17

• prevailing wind blows waves to beach at an angle
• when wave breaks, swash moves material further up beach at that angle
• backwash retracts wave transporting material with it perpendicularly
• zig zag movement moves material along the beach
• at the end of the beach, material is deposited to create a spit

Question 18

is LSD good for protecting a cliff from erosion and why

Answer 18

• no, it isnt
• because material transported with waves crashes against cliff face which erodes it
• the waves also contribute to the erosion with hydraulic action
• as waves are coming from an angle there is more horizontal erosion

Question 19

what words describe the movement of a wave after it has crashed on the beach

Answer 19

• swash, as it crashes and travels unto the beach

- backwash, as it retracts back to the sea