Coasts Flashcards
What is a coastal example of an input?
Precipitation and wind.
What is a coastal example of an output?
Ocean currents, rip tides, sediment transfer and evaporation.
What is a coastal example of energy?
Any energy associated with flowing water, the effects of gravity on cliffs and moving air (wind energy transferred to wave energy).
What is a coastal example of a store?
Beaches, sand dunes and nearshore sediment.
What is a coastal example of a transfer?
Wind blown sand, mass movement process, Littoral drift.
What is a coastal example of positive feedback?
Coastal management can lead to an increase in erosion elsewhere along the coast. Therefore hard engineering methods deprive other areas further down.
What is a coastal example of negative feedback?
When the rate of weathering and mass movement exceeds the rate of cliff foot-erosion a scree slope is formed. Over time, this apron extends up the cliff face protecting the cliff face from sub aerial processes (reducing the effects of weathering/mass movement).
Define Tombolo
A beach that forms between an island and the mainland.
Define Spit
A long, narrow accumulation of sand or shingle with one end attached to land and the other projecting out to sea or to a river estuary.
Define Offshore Bar
Elongated ridges and mounds of sand or gravel deposited beyond a shoreline by currents and waves.
Define Bar
Where a beach extends across an indentation in a coastline to join two headlands.
Define Berm
A ridge made of the biggest boulders thrown by large waves, found above the high tide marks.
What are the characteristics of a constructive wave?
Formation = Distance weather systems generate these waves in the open ocean.
Wave Form = Low, surging waves - with a long wavelength.
Wave Break = Strong swash, weak backwash.
Beach gained or lost? = Gained
Beach Profile = Usually associated with a gentle beach profile (over time build up the beach and make it steeper).
What are the characteristics of a destructive wave?
Formation = Local storms are responsible for these waves.
Wave Form = High plunging waves - with a short wavelength.
Wave Break = Weak swash, strong backwash.
Beach gained or lost? = Lost
Beach Profile = Usually associated with a steeper beach profile (over time they will flatten the beach).
What factors affect wave energy?
- The strength of wind.
- The duration of the wind.
- The fetch of the waves. (How far it’s travelled)
With a neap tide and a spring tide, where is the Moon, Earth and Sun in position?
- Neap tide: The Moon and the Sun are at right angles to each other, whilst the Earth is in line with the sun.
- Spring tide: The Moon and the Sun are in line, whilst the Earth is either in front or behind the moon.
Which type of tide as the larger tidal range?
A spring tide has a larger tidal range, because gravitational pulls act together to create larger high tides and lower low tides. Whilst with a neap tide gravitational pulls act against each other to create lower high tides and higher low tides.
What is a rip current?
And how are they formed?
A rip current is a strong localised underwater current that occurs on some beaches, posing a considerable danger to swimmers and surfers.
They are formed by a build up of a series of plunging waves causing a temporary build up of water at the top of a beach. Met with resistance from the breaking waves, water returning down the beach is forced just below the surface following troughs and small undulations in the beach profile.
What type of coasts and landforms are found in high energy environments?
These coasts tend to be rocky coasts where the waves are powerful and the rate of erosion exceeds the rate of deposition. Landforms that appears on a high energy coastline tend to be headlands, cliffs and wave cut platforms.
What type of coasts and landforms are found in a low energy environment?
These coasts tend to be sandy and estuarine coasts as the waves are not very powerful and the rate of deposition exceeds the rate of erosion. Landforms that appears on a low energy coastline tend to be beaches, spits and coastal plains.