Coasts Flashcards
Wave definition
A build up/wall of water on the surface of the sea by the action of wind
Swash definition
Mass of foaming water which transfers energy and sediment up the beach when a wave has broken
Backwash definition
The return of water down the beach as a result of gravitational pull
Wave crest definition
The highest point of a wave
Wave height definition
The distance between wave trough and crest
Wave period definition
Time taken for the wave motion from trough to trough or crest to crest (1-20 seconds)
Wave amplitude definition
The distance between still water level and wave crest
Wave base definition
An area of no water movement occurs at a depth of half the wavelength
Wave trough definition
The lowest point of a wave
Wavelength definition
The distance between two successive crests
Wave orbit definition
The circular motion that water particles make
Still water depth definition
Is measured from the sea bed to the surface of the sea
Wave frequency definition
The number of waves per minute
Wave steepness definition
The ratio of the wave height to wavelength (wave height divided by wave length) no higher than 1:7
Fetch definition
The distance of which the wind can blow
Tide definition
Regular rising and falling movements of the surface of the sea
Tide cycle definition
The gap between the two peaks of a high tide
spring tide definition
When the moon is between the earth and the sun
Neap tide definition
When the earth, moon and when form a right angle
Tidal range definition
The vertical difference between the high tide and the succeeding low tide