Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

Wave definition

A

A build up/wall of water on the surface of the sea by the action of wind

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2
Q

Swash definition

A

Mass of foaming water which transfers energy and sediment up the beach when a wave has broken

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3
Q

Backwash definition

A

The return of water down the beach as a result of gravitational pull

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4
Q

Wave crest definition

A

The highest point of a wave

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5
Q

Wave height definition

A

The distance between wave trough and crest

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6
Q

Wave period definition

A

Time taken for the wave motion from trough to trough or crest to crest (1-20 seconds)

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7
Q

Wave amplitude definition

A

The distance between still water level and wave crest

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8
Q

Wave base definition

A

An area of no water movement occurs at a depth of half the wavelength

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9
Q

Wave trough definition

A

The lowest point of a wave

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10
Q

Wavelength definition

A

The distance between two successive crests

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11
Q

Wave orbit definition

A

The circular motion that water particles make

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12
Q

Still water depth definition

A

Is measured from the sea bed to the surface of the sea

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13
Q

Wave frequency definition

A

The number of waves per minute

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14
Q

Wave steepness definition

A

The ratio of the wave height to wavelength (wave height divided by wave length) no higher than 1:7

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15
Q

Fetch definition

A

The distance of which the wind can blow

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16
Q

Tide definition

A

Regular rising and falling movements of the surface of the sea

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17
Q

Tide cycle definition

A

The gap between the two peaks of a high tide

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18
Q

spring tide definition

A

When the moon is between the earth and the sun

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19
Q

Neap tide definition

A

When the earth, moon and when form a right angle

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20
Q

Tidal range definition

A

The vertical difference between the high tide and the succeeding low tide

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21
Q

Coriolis force definition

A

It dictates the way which the winds swirl and is opposite in each hemisphere

22
Q

Storm surge definition

A

A change in sea level that is caused by a storm or strong winds

23
Q

Constructive waves definition

A

(Swell) they are low energy waves which are caused by distant storms

24
Q

Destructive waves definition

A

(Storm) they are high energy waves from local storms

25
Q

Erosion definition

A

The weathering away of the surface of the land

26
Q

Weathering definition

A

The breakdown of rocks in situ (original location). This produces finer particles that can be moved away by agents of erosion

27
Q

Mass movement definition

A

The movement downslope of rock fragments and soil under the influence of gravity

28
Q

Sediment cell definition

A

A length of coastline that is relatively self-contained as far as the movement of sand and shingle is concerned and where the interruption to such movement should not have a significant effect on adjacent sediment cells

29
Q

Clastic sediment definition

A

Are from rock weathering and erosion. These vary in size from minute clay and mud particles to sand and lager cobbles and boulders

30
Q

Biogemic sediment definition

A

These are the shells and skeletons of marine organisms

31
Q

Littoral drift divides definition

A

Occur where the coastline abruptly changes direction such as at major headlands

32
Q

Sediment sinks definition

A

Where sediment transport paths meet so that sediment builds up in major depositional environments

33
Q

Wave cut platform definitions

A

A gently sloping, relatively flat (1-2 degrees) expanse of rock found at the foot of a cliff and extending out to sea

34
Q

Concordent coastline definition

A

Is where bands of rock run parallel to the coastline

35
Q

Discordent coastline definition

A

Is where bands of rock run perpendicular to the coastline (90 degrees)

36
Q

Beach definition

A

The accumulation if material deposited between low spring rides and the highest point reached by storm waves. They are a dynamic feature

37
Q

Cusp definition

A

Crescent shaped features that form on beaches where there is a junction of shingle and sand

38
Q

Berm definition

A

A ride of coarse sand and shingle on an upper beach, deposited by spring tides and storm waves

39
Q

Storm beach definition

A

A noticeable semi-permanent ridge found at the level of the highest spring tide

40
Q

Longshore drift definition

A

The process of deposition and transportation and it is a continuous pattern

41
Q

Spit definition

A

An extended stretch of beach material that projects out to sea and is joined to the mainland at one end

42
Q

Bar definition

A

A ridge of material that has joined two headlands, cutting off a bay

43
Q

Succession definition

A

The gradual change in plant species/communities over time

44
Q

Primary succession definition

A

Succession is allowed to occur unhindered and progress from bare soil right through to climatic climax vegetation

45
Q

Secondary succession definition

A

Succession is interrupted. This can either be natural or human induced

46
Q

Climatic climax vegetation definition

A

The end of a succession sequence. Vegetation is in equilibrium with the climate of an area

47
Q

Sub climax vegetation definition

A

Occurs when a natural event prevents climatic climax vegetation being reached

48
Q

Plagio climax vegetation definition

A

Occurs when humans interrupt the succession sequence

49
Q

Pioneer species definition

A

First plants to colonise an area

50
Q

Climax communities definition

A

End of the succession sequence

51
Q

Coast definition

A

Transitional zone between the land and sea. This zone is not fixed and is subject to change.