Coasts Flashcards

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0
Q

Wave height

A

Distance between the wave trough and crest

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1
Q

Wave crest

A

Highest point of a wave

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2
Q

Wave period

A

Time taken for the wave motion from trough to trough OR crest to crest (usually 1-20 seconds)

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3
Q

Wave amplitude

A

Distance between the still water depth level and wave crest

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4
Q

Wave base

A

An are of no movement which occurs at a depth of half the wavelength

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5
Q

Wave trough

A

The lower point in a wave

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6
Q

Wavelength

A

Distance between two successive crests

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7
Q

Wave orbit

A

The circular motion that water particles make

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8
Q

Still water depth

A

Is measured from the sea bed

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9
Q

Wave frequency

A

No of wave per minute

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10
Q

Wave steepness

A

Ratio of the wave hight to wavelength (wav height divided by wavelength)
No higher than 1:7 as this is when a wave breaks

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11
Q

Swash

A

Mass of foaming water that translates energy up the beach when a wave had broken

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12
Q

Backwash

A

Return of water down the beach as a result if gravitation pull

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13
Q

Fetch

A

The distance over which the wind can blow

The distance a wave travels

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14
Q

What effects wave energy?

A

Wind velocity (speed)
Duration (time which wind blew)
Fetch (distance over which wind blew)

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15
Q

Wave

A

Created by the action of wind on the surface of the sea

16
Q

Coast

A

Transitional zone between the land and the sea

This zone is not fixed and is often described as dynamic as it is subject to change

17
Q

What are the two types of wave

A

Waves debrief from local wings (sea)

Waves created by distance storms (swell) which may travel thousands of miles

18
Q

How are waves formed

A

Created by the frictional drag of the wind

19
Q

Define mass movement

A

Movement of rock fragments and soil under the influence of gravity

20
Q

What is the slowest form of mass movement

A

Soil creep

Less than 1cm per year
Almost continuous process

21
Q

What are the 3 main causes of soil creep

A

Raindrop impact

Wet-dry periods

Freeze-thaw

22
Q

Name all types of mass movement

A
Soil creep
Solifluction 
Earth flows
Mud flows
Slides and slumps  
Rockfall
23
Q

Succession

A

Gradual change in plant species/communities over time

24
Q

Primary succession

A

Succession is allowed to occur unhindered and progress from bare soil right through to climatic climax vegetation

25
Q

Secondary succession

A

succession is interrupted

Can either by natural or human induced

26
Q

Climatic climax vegatation

A

The end of the succession succession

Vegetation is in equilibrium with climate of an area

27
Q

Sub climax succession

A

Occurs when a natural event (flood) prevents climatic climax vegetation being reached

28
Q

Plagio climax vegetation

A

Occurs when humans interrupt the succession sequence

29
Q

Pioneer species

A

First plants to colonise an area. Characteristics include high growth rate, small size, wide dispersal and fast population growth

30
Q

Climax communities

A

End of the succession sequence.

Characterised by slower growth rates, larger size, lower rates if dispersal, lower rates of colonisation, longer lives

31
Q

What happens as you move inland sand dunes

A

Exposed sand decreases
Rise in humus content,more vegetation
Reduced salt in water - more freshwater
PH moves from alkaline to acid due to less saltwater and increase in humus
Increase in species diversity as conditions become less harsh

32
Q

Salt marsh

A

Intertidal and depositional landform
Area of low lying land that is frequently flooded with saltwater

Occur in sheltered river estuaries or behind spits

33
Q

Sea level change

A

Eustatic: amount of water in sea changes - global
Isostatic: when land rises or falls and creates a relative change in base level - local/smaller scale

34
Q

Emergent landforms

A

Raised beaches - former wave cut beaches now raised above current sea levels
Coastal plains/ marine platforms - large flat areas which are formed sea beds/floors exposed above sea levels

35
Q

Submergence landforms

A

Rias - drowned river valleys
Damnation coasts - flooded river valleys that run parallel to the coast
Fjords - flooded glacial u valleys
Fjards - flooded glacial lowlands ( V shaped)
Estuaries - flooded valleys of large, broad rivers - mouth of a river

36
Q

Features associated with beaches

Depositional

A

Cusps - crescent shaped features that form in beaches where there is a junction of sand and shingle
Berms - ridge coarse sand and shingle on upper beach deposited by spring tides and storm waves
Storm beach - noticeable semi permanent ridge bound at level of highest spring tides
Ridges and runnels - features at low water characterised by a series if raised areas and depressions that run parallel to shoreline