Coasts Flashcards
Wave height
Distance between the wave trough and crest
Wave crest
Highest point of a wave
Wave period
Time taken for the wave motion from trough to trough OR crest to crest (usually 1-20 seconds)
Wave amplitude
Distance between the still water depth level and wave crest
Wave base
An are of no movement which occurs at a depth of half the wavelength
Wave trough
The lower point in a wave
Wavelength
Distance between two successive crests
Wave orbit
The circular motion that water particles make
Still water depth
Is measured from the sea bed
Wave frequency
No of wave per minute
Wave steepness
Ratio of the wave hight to wavelength (wav height divided by wavelength)
No higher than 1:7 as this is when a wave breaks
Swash
Mass of foaming water that translates energy up the beach when a wave had broken
Backwash
Return of water down the beach as a result if gravitation pull
Fetch
The distance over which the wind can blow
The distance a wave travels
What effects wave energy?
Wind velocity (speed)
Duration (time which wind blew)
Fetch (distance over which wind blew)