COASTS Flashcards
WAVE HEIGHT
distance between crest and through
WAVELENTH
distance between 2 successive crests/ troughs
FREQUENCY
number of waves per minute
VELOCITY
speed of travelling wave
FETCH
distance travelled by a wave in open water
BACKWASH
water running back into sea from a wave
SWASH
water washed up by the beach by the wave
BEACH PROFILE
shape of a beach (always changing)
WAVES FORM
due to friction between waves and sea
HIGH PRESSURE AREAS OF A WAVE
through
LOW PRESSURE AREA OF A WAVE
crest
CORRASION
waves pick up beach material, hurl them against cliff & dislodges rock in cliff
ATTRITION
wave causes material that’s already been eroded from cliff to knock together
HYDRAULIC ACTION
wave hits cliff, pressure on air in cracks
wave retracts, pressure released quickly
rock loosened and breaks away
CORROSION
salts and other acids in seawater slowly remove rock in cliff by dissolving it