COASTS Flashcards

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0
Q

WAVE HEIGHT

A

distance between crest and through

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1
Q

WAVELENTH

A

distance between 2 successive crests/ troughs

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2
Q

FREQUENCY

A

number of waves per minute

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3
Q

VELOCITY

A

speed of travelling wave

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4
Q

FETCH

A

distance travelled by a wave in open water

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5
Q

BACKWASH

A

water running back into sea from a wave

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6
Q

SWASH

A

water washed up by the beach by the wave

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7
Q

BEACH PROFILE

A

shape of a beach (always changing)

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8
Q

WAVES FORM

A

due to friction between waves and sea

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9
Q

HIGH PRESSURE AREAS OF A WAVE

A

through

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10
Q

LOW PRESSURE AREA OF A WAVE

A

crest

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11
Q

CORRASION

A

waves pick up beach material, hurl them against cliff & dislodges rock in cliff

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12
Q

ATTRITION

A

wave causes material that’s already been eroded from cliff to knock together

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13
Q

HYDRAULIC ACTION

A

wave hits cliff, pressure on air in cracks
wave retracts, pressure released quickly
rock loosened and breaks away

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14
Q

CORROSION

A

salts and other acids in seawater slowly remove rock in cliff by dissolving it

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15
Q

DYNAMIC EQUILIBRIUM

A

coastline is always changing

16
Q

CONCORDANT COASTLINE

A

same geology, erodes at same speed

17
Q

DISCONCORDANT COASTLINE

A

different types of rock, eroded differently

18
Q

ATOLL REEF

A

roughly circular perched around oceanic volcano seamount and encircle a shallow central lagoon

19
Q

FRINGING REEF

A

grows fairly close to shore with entirely shallow lagoon or none at all

20
Q

BARRIER REEF

A

parallel to shore, separated from shore by a wide lagoon with deep portions

21
Q

LAGOON

A

stretch of salt water seperated from sea by a reef or sea bank

22
Q

WHAT IS A CORAL REEF

A

a structure built up from remains of living organisms/coral polyps etc