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COASTS Flashcards

1
Q

WHAT are constructive waves

A

small waves that spill onto the shore. Spilling waves that have a strong swash and weak backwash so they add material

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2
Q

what are destructive waves

A

large, powerful waves that plunge onto the shoreline. They have a weak swash and strong backwash so erode material from the coast

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3
Q

what is a swash

A

the breaking of waves onto the shore carrying material with it

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4
Q

what is backwash

A

The water that flows back down the beach to the sea. Dragging lighter material back with it

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5
Q

what is the backshore

A

The area of a beach that lies above the high tide level. It is reached by waves only during stormy weather

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6
Q

what is the foreshore

A

The lower section of the beach next to the water

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7
Q

what is A storm beach

A

Located in the backshore area and mainly consists of stones and gravel

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8
Q

what is a fetch

A

it refers to the distance of open sea that the wave travels before reaching the shore.

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9
Q

crest

A

is the top of the wave

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10
Q

trough

A

bottom of wave

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11
Q

what is wave refraction

A

when waves bend and change their direction as they approach the shore

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12
Q

explain wave refraction

A

As the waves reach the coastline, the headland is encountered first
As they enter shallow water, they begin to slow down near the headland
In deeper water the waves continue at greater speeds
This difference in speed causes the waves to bend inwards around either side of the headland
The erosive power of the wave is concentrated on the headland, so erosion mainly occurs here

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13
Q

what are the factors influecning erosion

A

composition of rock
wave strength
coastal shape
shore gradient- steeper sloping beaches generate more destructive waves
human activity
rising sea levels- increases erosion
climate chnage- increases storm frequency

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14
Q

what are the processes of erosion on the coastlines

A

hydraulic action
abrasion
attritaion
compresion
solution

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15
Q

give an example of an irish wave cut latform

A

cliffs of moher, co clare

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16
Q

explain a wave cut platform

A

Cliffs are vertical, steep slopes that are created by erosion
Through the process of hydraulic action, destructive waves attack the joints and cracks in the cliff face.
Compression enlarges these areas of weakness in rocks and eventually shattered pieces of rock break off and fall into the sea
Eventually this process creates a notch in the cliff as the cracks and joints are enlarged
As the notch is enlarged it undercuts the rock above causing it to collapse as it is no longer supported
The sea uses this shattered rock to further erode the cliff through the process of abrasion
Solution can also erode a cliff face, but this is most effective in areas where limestone is the most common rock
As these processes are repeated, the cliff continues to retreat inland and becomes steeper
As the cliff retreats inland, it leaves behind a wave cut platform. These are a surface of rock eroded from the cliff. They are only visible at low tide.
When pieces of rock are deposited in front of a wave-cut platform they form a wave-built terrace

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17
Q

where would you find bays and headlands

A

wicklow head, co wicklow

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18
Q

explain the formation of a headland and bay

A

Bays and headlands develop in areas that have bands alternate bands of hard, resistant rock and soft, less resistant rock
The soft rock erodes quicker than the hard rock due to differential erosion, creating bays. The hard rock left jutting out are headlands
Over time a bay will become sheltered in that it will be surrounded by land on both sides. This can result in the formation of a beach as deposition occurs
A headland is surrounded by water on three sides and is highly susceptible to the processes of erosion
Wave refraction also increases the amount of erosion that happens

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19
Q

explain the formation of a cave

A

The processes of erosion eventually open up areas of weakness in the rock face, such as joints or bedding planes
These areas enlarge overtime to form a cave

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20
Q

expalin the formation of an arch

A

Sea arches are a bridge like feature. They are formed when a cave is eroded completely through a narrow headland. They can also form when two caves form back to back on opposite sides of a headland and eventually meet in the middle

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21
Q

explain how sea stack are formed

A

Sea stacks form when the roof of a sea stack collapses under the pressure of its own weight. The sea stack is the free-standing rock left in the sea, separate from the coastline

22
Q

expalin how stumps are formed

A

Sea stumps form when a sea stack is eroded down by the processes of erosion. It may only be visible at low tide, depending on how much erosion has occurred

23
Q

explain how blow holes are formed

A

Blowholes form when part of a cave roof collapses and the cave is exposed to the land above. They occur due to compression, when incoming waves trap air in the sea cave. The build up of pressure causes the caves roof to shatter. They are most active during stormy weather when sea spray blasts out of it

24
Q

explain how geos form

A

they are a small narrow coastal inlet
form as a result of a weakness along a cliff or from the collapse of cave. The weaker rock is eroded away afster so a thin channel is carved out

25
what does transportaion require of marierals to be
material eroded by waves is further broken down by attriction and is light enough to be trnasporte din waves.
26
explain longshore drift
as waves appraoch the shore, friction causes them to slow and break. The direction that the waves hit the coast depends on the wind direction. Sediment is pushed up the beack at an angle by the swash and some material is deposited at the backshore. The backwash then drags the rest of the material back to the sea at a 90 degree angle. As this process is repeated sediment is moved along the coast in a zig zag motion
27
explain how a beach forms
learn essay from file
28
wgat is a sand spit
A sand spit is a long narrow ridge of sand and shingle that is connected to the mainland on one end and exposed to the sea at the other
29
how do sand spits form
Sand spits form when the process of longshore drift is interrupted, and this causes the waves to lose their energy and slow down. Longshore drift can be interrupted as a result of a change in wind direction or if a bay or inlet causes a sudden change in the shape of a coastline As a result, sediment is deposited on the sea bed and builds up overtime to appear above sea level in the form of a sand spit. Further deposition extends its length across the bay. The spit continues to grow as the input of material from longshore drift is greater than the amount removed by the tides and currents Constructive waves deposit material to form a beach on the seaward side. Longshore drift continues adding material to the spit.
30
What are berms
Small ridges of slightly coarse gravel that are deposited parallel to the shore
31
32
What are runnels
Ridges that are separated by depressions Called runnels
33
How do sand dunes form?
Hills of sand that developed behind beaches beyond the range of sea. There must be a plenty full supply of fine beach sand and a prevailing wind coming from the sea. During low tide the suns in this blown in land by the sea. It is deposited by the wind when it comes in contact with obstacles like vegetation and build up overtime.
34
What kind of grass acts like an anchor for sand dunes?
Maram
35
What is a Tombolo?
It is what joins an offshore island to the mainland
36
What is a baymouth bar /sandbar?
They form when sandspits grow across the amount of the bay. Longshore drift increases the length and constructive waves at sediment increasing its height so the former bay is blocked off from the sea and becomes a lake called a lagoon.
37
What happens if a river does not float into a lagoon?
It may eventually dry up and form a saltmarsh
38
Where would you find a sandbar?
Our ladys island County Wexford
39
What are the hard structures of coastal management?
Sea walls Gabions Groynes Rock armour
40
What are sea walls?
They are used to prevent erosion They are permanent features usually made from resistant rock or reinforced concrete They protect buildings and streets from erosion They have curved walls in order to reflect breaking waves back It reduces the energy of incoming waves so they are less likely to breach the top of the protective wall
41
What are gabions
They are still mesh cages filled with stones They are used to reduce the energy of incoming waves Waves are broken up as they fill death through stones in the mesh so the energy is spread out and arose of power reduced They are not long lasting as taken break and be washed away in storms
42
What are? Groynes
They are low walls made of cement or wood that are built out right angle to the shore. They are used to trap sediment moved along the shore by longshore drift. It allows material to accumulate and prevent the erosion of beaches
43
What is a negative effect of Groynes
It deprived nearby coastal areas of natural deposition leading to increased erosion in those areas
44
What is rock armour
They are large boulder that are placed along the coastline to reduce sea erosion. When waves crash off the boulders, their energy is reduced preventing erosion from occurring.
45
Why is rock armour not popular?
It is bulky and takes up too much space on a beach
46
What is some types of soft structures?
Beach nourishment and sand dunes
47
What is soft structure defences?
They are considered to be more eco-friendly and are not permanent and used to repair damage caused by destructive waves
48
What is beach nourishment in terms of soft structure human interference?
It involves adding new sound to Beaches, which increases the thickness and width of the beach. It is done by drudging. It helps prevent erosion and increases the recreational value of the beach.
49
What are the negatives of beach nourishment?
It is very expensive and labour-intensive
50
What is Sundunes as a method of protection e.g. soft structures?
They are protected from erosion by planting farm grass. They’re behind the grass particles together making it more resistant to wind erosion.
51

Geography (14 decks)

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