coasts Flashcards

1
Q

compare constructive and destructive waves in terms of physical appearance

A

constructive: larger wavelength and smaller amplitude
destructive: smaller wavelength and bigger amplitude

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2
Q

compare constructive and destructive waves in terms of swash and backwash

A

constructive: powerful swash, weak backwash
destructive: powerful backwash, weak swash

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3
Q

how and when do constructive waves form

A

formed by storms often hundreds of kilometres away
common in summer

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4
Q

how and when do destructive waves form

A

formed by local storms close to the coast
common in winter

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5
Q

what are the three types of weathering with basic descriptions

A

mechanical - disintegration of rock
chemical - chemical changes
biological - actions of flora and fauna

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6
Q

description of example of mechanical weathering

A

freeze thaw
water collects in cracks of rock and expands as it freezes. cracks and collects as scree at foot

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7
Q

description of example of chemical weathering

A

carbonation
rainwater is slightly acidic because it absorbs co2. contact with alkaline rocks e.g limestone causes slow dissolve

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8
Q

description of example of biological weathering

A

plant roots and animals burrow into weak rocks/sand

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9
Q

what is mass movement and three examples

A

downward movement of material under influence of gravity
sliding, slumping, rockfall

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10
Q

what is sliding

A

rock sliding down the slide plane of a cliff due to rainfall or an earthquake

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11
Q

what is slumping

A

collapse of saturated/weak rocks along curved slip plane (scarp) due to unstable base

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12
Q

what is rockfall

A

rocks falling down cliff face due to freeze thaw. collects as scree

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13
Q

what is hydraulic action

A

power of waves and air that gets trapped by them causes erosion

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14
Q

what is abrasion

A

sandpapering effect of rocks against rocky platform

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15
Q

what is attrition

A

rocks knocking against each other and becoming smaller/more rounded.
does not contribute to coastal erosion

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16
Q

what is solution (transportation)

A

dissolved chemicals from limestone or chalk

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17
Q

what is suspension

A

particles carried within water

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18
Q

what is traction

A

large pebbles rolled along sea bed

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19
Q

what is saltation

A

bouncing motion of particles too heavy to suspend

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20
Q

what geological structure is required for headlands and bays

A

discordant coastline: bands of stronger and weaker rock perpendicular from the coastline

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21
Q

how do headlands and bays form

A

on discordant coastline, weaker rock erodes faster (bay). sheltered and low energy waves - deposition.
harder rock sticks out (headland). high energy waves - wcn & no deposition

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22
Q

how do caves form and which erosion/weathering processes occur

A

weaknesses e.g faults or joints in cliff face start to erode.
ABRASION AND HYDRAULIC ACTION

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23
Q

how do arches form and which erosion/weathering processes occur

A

back to back caves connect
ABRASION AND HYDRAULIC ACTION

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24
Q

how do stacks form and which erosion/weathering processes occur

A

roof of arch is weakened and collapses
WEATHERING PROCESSES

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25
Q

how do stumps form and which erosion/weathering processes occur

A

wave cut notches form at bottom of stack and collapses
HYDRAULIC ACTION

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26
Q

how do faults form in cliffs

A

hydraulic action

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27
Q

what is a wave cut notch

A

hydraulic action and abrasion processes between the high and low wave zones erode the base. material removed by destructive waves. notch formed

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28
Q

why do cliffs retreat

A

once wcn become to large for the overhanging cliff to defy gravity, it falls onto the beach, aided by weathering.
processes repeats

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29
Q

what is a wave cut platform

A

former base of cliff is left. continuously smoothed by abrasion.

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30
Q

features of a sandy beach

A

shallow and flatter
low energy constructive waves
wider
sometimes dunes at back
strong swash

31
Q

features of pebble beach

A

steep profile
destructive waves
not wide
larger pebbles at back
stronger backwash

32
Q

why do beach profiles change

A

berms (ridges of sand caused by deposition in calm weather) are moved up beach by storms and spring tides.
in winter, berms dragged down beach, forming offshore bars, lowering beach.

33
Q

how are dunes formed

A

• embryo dunes form around obstacles
• develop and stabilise by vegetation, eg marram grass, forms fore dunes
• rotting vegetation makes sand fertile and creates wider range of plants
• wind can form depressions called dune slacks, in which ponds form

34
Q

how do spits form

A

• on coastlines with longshored drift, if coastline bends sharply, sediment continues to be pushed in same direction, out to sea
• strong winds and waves can curve spit (recurved end)
• may be multiple from previous positions of spit

35
Q

how do saltmarshes form

A

the area behind spit is sheltered. mud is deposited and causes vegetation. these are vital wildlife habitats

36
Q

what is a bar

A

when spits grow across a bay.
freshwater lagoon trapped behind it

37
Q

three advantages of sea walls

A

• very effectively deflects wave energy, preventing erosion & flooding
• provides promenade in seaside town
• long lasting

38
Q

three disadvantages of sea walls

A

• unattractive and unnatural
• £5000 per metre and high maintenance
• restrict access to beach

39
Q

four advantages of groynes

A

• wider beach - popular with tourists
• useful structures for fishers
• less expensive, 150 000 per 200m
• windbreakers

40
Q

two disadvantages of groynes

A

• terminal groyne syndrome - interruption of longshore drift deprives beach further down - increasing erosion elsewhere
• unnatural & unattractive

41
Q

three advantages of rock armour

A

• relatively cheap, £200 000 per 100m
• used for fishing
• provide services e.g climbing, sunbathing to beach

42
Q

two disadvantages of rock armour

A

• rocks from other parts of coast, or even abroad. preserves cliffs only in one area
• doesn’t fit into local geology

43
Q

three advantages of gabions

A

• cheap, £50 000 per 100
• can become vegetated and merge into landscape
• even if cages erode, rocks inside form makeshift body armour

44
Q

three disadvantages of gabions

A

• rocks taken from elsewhere
• unnatural and unattractive when first built
• cages only last 5-10 years

45
Q

what is beach nourishment/re profiling?

A

adding local sand or shingle to existing beach to heighten or widen it

46
Q

two advantages of beach nourishment / re profiling

A

• increases tourist potential
• added shingle blends into beach

47
Q

two disadvantages of beach nourishment/reprofiling

A

• constant maintenance involving heavy machinery
• 500 000 per 100m

48
Q

what is dune regeneration

A

using dunes as buffers to sea, preserving them using marram grass and fences

49
Q

three advantages of dune regeneration

A

• habitat to rare bird, reptile, and dragon/damsel fly species
• natural
• cheap 200-2000 per 100m of boardwalk

50
Q

three disadvantages of dune regeneration

A

• time consuming to plant grass and boardwalks
• people do not always respond well to being prohibited from natural areas
• damaged by storms

51
Q

what is dune fencing/conservation

A

planting fences to encourage dune formation and protect existing dunes

52
Q

three advantages of dune fencing

A

• minimal impact on habitats
• restricted access preserves dunes
• cheap, 400-2000 per 100m

53
Q

two disadvantages of dune fencing

A

• unsightly, especially if broken/mouldy
• hug maintenance, especially after storms

54
Q

what is managed retreat

A

deliberately allowing sea to flood or erode area of low value land

55
Q

three advantages if managed retreat

A

• more sustainable than spending money and effort on building and maintaining defences
• soft engineering
• important for future as seas rise

56
Q

disadvantages of managed retreat/ do nothing

A

• people may be rehoused

57
Q

what is no active intervention

A

no plans for defences

58
Q

what is hold the line

A

maintain current defences

59
Q

what is advance the line

A

increase defences to extend coastline

60
Q

where is medmerry

A

south coast of uk
in west sussex

61
Q

why was management needed in medmerry

A

• 300 homes, waterworks and roads
• constant heavy machinery work on beach

62
Q

what were the objectives of medmerry

A

• create natural saltmarsh (natural buffer to sea)
• protect surrounding farmland and caravan parks from flooding
• create intertidal wildlife habitat and encourage visitors to sea o

63
Q

description of scheme and things needed for medmerry

A

• 7 km of banks
• 450 000 tonnes of clay
• 60 000 tonnes or rock, just to barricade ends
• ditches created to encourage ponds

64
Q

6 advantages of medmerry

A

• leisure
• habitats
• natural buffer for erosion
• protects local towns & industry
• investment: no maintaining defences
• salt in wanter gives grazing cows desirable taste

65
Q

3 disadvantages of medmerry

A

• 28 million
• loss of farmland
• hard engineering still required

66
Q

where is lyme regis

A

small coastal town, south coast of england

67
Q

reasons for management in lyme regis

A

• built on unstable cliffs
• fastest eroding cliffs in all if europe
• sea wall breached many times, damaging property

68
Q

aims of management in lyne regis

A

• long term protection
• no controversy as public informed and meetings held

69
Q

phase 1 and 2: 4 key features of lyme regis scheme

A

• new sea walls and promenades
• rock armour extended
• sand dredged from english channel for nourishment
• £1.4 million for cliff stabilisation: hundred of nails hold rocks tg

70
Q

phase 4 lyme regis

A

• 340m sea wall in front of existing wall
• further cliff stabilisation to protect 480 homes

71
Q

phase 3 lyme regis

A

proposed to prevent landslips

costs outweighed benefits

72
Q

3 advantages of lyme regis scheme

A

• new beaches = tourism
• new defences have withstood recent stormy winters
• harbour protected, benefitting fishermen and boat owners

73
Q

2 disadvantages of lyme regis scheme

A

• tourism led to litter and congestion
• natural landscape spoiled

74
Q

2 disadvantages of lyme regis scheme

A

• tourism led to litter and congestion
• natural landscape spoiled