Coasts Flashcards
Is the coastal system open or closed?
It is open because it recieves inputs from outside the system and transfers outputs away from the coast
What are sediment cells?
Sediment cells are areas along the coastline and in the nearshore area where the movement of material is largely self-contained and the flows of sediment act in dynamic equilibrium
Sediment cells are often bordered by headlands
What is dynamic equilibrium?
Dynamic equilibrium refers to the maintenance of a balance in a natural system, despite it being in a constant state of change.
The system has a tendency to counteract any changes imposed on the system in order to keep this balance, which is achieved by inputs and outputs constantly changing to maintain the balance.
Dynamic equilibrium in a sediment cell is where input and outputs of sediment are in a constant state of change but remain in balance.
What are the three main coastal inputs?
- Marine: waves, tides, salt spray
- Atmospheric: sun, air pressure, wind speed and direction
- Human: pollution, recreation, settlement, defences
Examples of coastal outputs
- Ocean currents
- Riptides
- Sediment transfer
- Evaporation
Examples of coastal stores/sinks
● Beaches
● Sand Dunes
● Spits
● Bars and Tombolos
● Headlands and Bays
● Nearshore Sediment
● Cliffs
● Wave-cut Notches
● Wave-cut Platforms
● Caves
● Arches
● Stacks
● Stumps
● Salt Marshes
● Tidal Flats
● Offshore Bands and Bars
Examples of transfers/flows in the coastal system
● Wind-blown sand
● Mass-movement processes
● Longshore drift
● Weathering
● Erosion:
○ Hydraulic Action
○ Corrosion
○ Attrition
○ Abrasion
● Transportation:
○ Bedload
○ In suspension
○ Traction
○ In solution
● Deposition:
○ Flocculation
What does positive feedback do?
It accentuates a change making the system more unstable and taking it away from dynamic equilibrium
Example of positive feedback
- People walking over sand dunes destroys vegetation growing there and causes erosion.
- As the roots from the vegetation have been holding the sand dunes together, damaging the vegetation makes the sand dunes more susceptible to erosion. This increases the rate of erosion.
- Eventually the sand dunes will be completely eroded leaving more of the beach open to erosion taking the beach further away from its original state.
What does negative feedback do?
It bring a change back into dynamic equilibrium, making something less than it was before
Example of negative feedback
- When the destructive waves from the storm lose their energy excess sediment is deposited as an offshore bar.
- The bar dissipates the waves energy which protects the beach from further erosion.
- Over time the bar gets eroded instead of the beach.
- Once the bar has gone normal conditions ensue and the system goes back to dynamic equilibrium.
What is the littoral zone?
The littoral zone is the area of shoreline where land is subject to wave action. It’s subdivided into offshore, nearshore, foreshore and backshore.
What is a spring tide?
The highest tide where storms reach
What is swash?
When the wave moves up the beach
What is backwash?
When the wave moves back down the
beach into the sea
What are constructive waves?
Low energy waves with stronger swash than backwash meaning they deposit any material they were carrying. Important for the formation of beaches and other depositional processes.
What are destructive waves?
High energy waves with weaker swash than backwash. The stronger backwash pulls material away from the shoreline and into the sea, resulting in erosion. They are usually steep and close together.
How does seasonal weather affect wave type?
In the summer constructive waves are more common whilst in winter destructive waves are more common
What factors affect wave energy?
- Strength of the Wind: As waves are caused by the wind, stronger winds also mean stronger waves.
-
Duration of the Wind: If the wind is active for longer periods of time , then the energy of the
waves will build up and increase. - Size of the Fetch: The fetch is the distance over which the wind blows and the larger it is, the more powerful the waves will be.
What is a current?
A permanent or seasonal movement of surface water
What are rip currents?
Rip currents are powerful underwater currents occurring in areas close to the shoreline. They flow away from the shore
What are the characteristics of a high-energy coastline?
High-energy coastlines are associated with more powerful waves, so occur in areas where there is a large fetch.
They typically have rocky headlands and landforms and fairly frequent destructive waves.
As a result these coastlines are often eroding as the rate of erosion exceeds the rate of deposition.
What are the characteristics of a low-energy coastline?
Low-energy coastlines have less powerful waves and occur in sheltered areas where constructive waves prevail and as a result these are often fairly sandy areas .
There are landforms of deposition as the rates of deposition exceed the rates of erosion.
What is wave refraction?
Wave refraction is the process by which waves turn and lose energy around a headland on uneven coastlines. The wave energy is focussed on the headlands , creating erosive features in these areas. The energy is dissipated in bays leading to the formation of features associated with lower energy environments such as beaches.
What is the process of erosion and what types are there?
Erosion is a collaborative process which involves the removal of sediment from a coastline by
different types of erosion, not one type acting by itself. The main types are:
- Corrasion
- Abrasion
- Attrition
- Hydraulic action
- Solution
What is corrasion?
Sand and pebbles are picked up by the sea from an offshore sediment sink or temporal store and hurled against the cliffs at high tide, causing the cliffs to be eroded.
The shape, size, weight and quantity of sediment picked up, as well as the wave speed, affects the erosive power of this process.
What is abrasion?
This is the process where sediment is moved along the shoreline , causing it to be worn down over time. It is like a sandpaper effect, causing the rock to often look smooth and polished
What is attrition?
Wave action cause rocks and pebbles to hit against each other , wearing each other down and so becoming round and eventually smaller. Attrition is an erosive process within the coastal environment, but has little to no effect on erosion of the coastline itself.
What is hydraulic action?
As a wave crashes onto a rock or cliff face, air is forced into cracks, joints and faults within the rock. The high pressure causes the cracks to force apart and widen when the wave retreats and the air expands
What is solution/corrosion?
The mildly acidic seawater can cause alkaline rock such as limestone to be eroded and is very similar to the process of carbonation weathering