Coasts Flashcards

1
Q

How do waves form

A

Waves r formed when the wind blows over the surface of the sea , the friction causes it to create ripples , the top of the ripples gain more speed than the bottom until it crashes down . Previous water rushes in to make the wave bigger

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2
Q

Constructive waves

A

Constructive waves CREATE beaches
Created in calm water
Long low waves
Break at shore
Deposit material to build up beach (swash is greater than backwash)

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3
Q

Destructive waves

A

Destructive waves DESTROY beaches
Created in storm conditions
Short wavelength
Steep and high
High frequency
Erode coast ~ backwash more powerful than their swash so material is moved away

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4
Q

Erosion

A

The process of eroding or being eroeded away by water wind or other natural cause (gradual destruction)

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5
Q

Transportation

A

The movement of material across earths surface by wind water ice or gravity

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6
Q

Deposition

A

The laying down of sediment by wind flowing water , the sea or ice

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7
Q

Soft engineering methods

A

Dune regeneration:
Artificial creation or regeneration of sand dunes
Takes 7 years
Done by hand
Beach nourishment:
Sand added to beach to replace eroded sand
Replaced regularly
Little environmental impact

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8
Q

How do rock armour work

A

Large boulders with gaps to loose energy of waves so beach isn’t eroded
Small or weak rocks won’t work
Cheap and relatively weak

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9
Q

How do sea walls work

A

Concrete walk built to protect the coast from coastal erosion .
Stops waves from hitting coastline
Nice for tourists to walk on
Expensive

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10
Q

Why are coasts uneven

A

Praviling wind hits the coastline eroding it away creating a bay the 2 headlands stick out with the coastline further back making it uneven

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11
Q

3 types of erosion erode coasts

A

Abrasion
Attrition
Hydraulic action

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12
Q

What is hydraulic power.

A

Waves crash against rock & compress air in the cracks
This puts pressure on rocks
Repeated compression in cracks makes cracks bigger
Causes bits of rock to break off

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13
Q

What is abrasion

A

Particles in water (from erosion) scrape & rub against the rock
Removes small pieces

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14
Q

What is Attrition

A

Eroded particles in water collide & break into smaller pieces
Become more rounded
Process that Makes pebbles smooth

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15
Q

What is solution

A

Process by which sea water dissolves some rocks
In UK chalk & limestone

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16
Q

2 Processes shaping the coastline

A

Chemical
Mechanical

17
Q

What is mechanical weathering

A

Breakdown of rock without changing its chemical compostiton

18
Q

Freeze thaw weathering

A

When temp flipuctuates above & below 0 degrees
Water enters cracks in rock eg granite
Water freezes so it expands as ice
Ice thaws so it contracts - releasing the pressure on the rock
Repeated freezing/ thawing widens the cracks causes rock to break up

19
Q

Mechanical weathering - Salt weathering

A

Salt weathering
Salt enters crack, water evaporates leaving salt crystals that grow & expand

20
Q

Chemical weathering give examples

A

changing the chemical composition of rock
Carbonation
Hydrolysis
Oxidation

21
Q

Carbonation

A

Occurs in wet & warm conditions
Rainwater has carbon dioxide i it
Makes it weaker carbonic acid
Carbonic acid reacts with rock that has calcium carbonate in it
Eg limestone
dissolves the rocks

22
Q

Hydrolysis

A

Water reacts with minerals in the rock causing composition of rock to change & become more unstable
Rock breaks down

23
Q

Oxidation

A

Oxygen reacts with minerals such as calcium & magnesium to from iron oxide
Iron oxide is red/brown
Causes decomposition of rock

24
Q

Mass movement

A

Shifting of rocks eg cliff
Causes by gravity pulling down on slope
Causes rapid retreat of coastline
More likely if material is full of water - acts as lubricant, makes material heavier
Creates a SCARP in slope - see diagrams in book must be able to sketch
SLIDES
sLUMPS
ROCkFALL

25
Q

How is eroded material Transported along the coast?

A

Longshore drift

26
Q

What’s longshore drift?

A

Waves follow direction of prevailing wind
Usually hit coast at oblique angle
Swash carries material UP beach
Backwash carries material DOWN the beach at right angles
Overtime material zig zags along coast
Be able to draw diagram of longshore drift

27
Q

What is SWASH?

A
28
Q

What is BACKWASH.

A
29
Q

4 process of transportation

A

Depends on how powerful the movement of water is & size of particles
-traction
-saltation
-suspension
-saltation
-solution

30
Q

Traction

A

Large particles -boulders are pushed along as bed by force of water

31
Q

Saltation

A

Pebble size particles