Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

What is long shore drift

A

Process of transportation which moves sand and pebbles along the coast as waves approach the coast at and angle

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2
Q

What does swash do in long shore drift

A

The Swash carries sand and pebbles up the beach

backwash draws the sediment backdown at right angles.

Causing a zig zag movemeny

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3
Q

How is a spit formed?

A

Material is transported by the coast due to long shore drift and is deposited on the seabed.

Gradually more and more sediment is deposited forming a ridge that extends out to see.

open water, fresh water and sea water are trapped behind the ridge.

As the ridge extends deeper to open waters, the wind and waves approaching from different directions.

Causing the spit to curve.

A spit will not form completely across the gap in the coastlines due to strong river and sea currents

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4
Q

What is a bar?

A

A bar is a ridge of sand across the entrance to a bay or river mouths.

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5
Q

How is a beach formed?

A

When eroded material is transported by long shore drift and deposited by constructive waves.

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6
Q

How is a bar formed?

A

Material is deposited along the coast by long shore drift and deposited where there is a bend on the coastline.

Deposition continues in a line right across the entrance to the bay or river mouth.

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7
Q

What is a spit?

A

A long narrow ridge of sand, one end of which is attached to land, while towards the other end has a gap

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8
Q

How is climate change causing issue for coastal landscapes?

A

Rising sea level can lead to cliffs that are currently benign undercut and collapsing will continue to retreat.

Areas of soft coastline may experience more erosion.
———————————-//————//—STORM SURGES - a large scale increase in sea level due to a storm

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9
Q

What is soft engineering?

A

Flood defences that work with natural processes to reduce the impact of coastal or river flooding

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10
Q

What is hard engineering?

A

Flood defences made by humans

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11
Q

What are the advantages of a sea wall?

A

Protects the base of cliff

Made of resistant concrete

Reflects energy if recurved

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12
Q

What are the disadvantages of a Sea wall?

A

Expensive

Unsightly

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13
Q

What is a groyne

A

A wooden barrier built at right angles, to break waves and reduce the movement of sediment along the coast.

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14
Q

What are the benefits of Groynes?

A

Builds a wide beach

Beach attracts tourists

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15
Q

What are the disadvantages of a Groyne?

A

High maintenance - Wood Rots

Sand prevented from moving so can cause erosion further along the coast

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16
Q

What is beach replenishment?

A

Adding sand to increase the width of the beach

17
Q

What are the benefits of beach replenishment.

A

Cheap

Looks natural

Attracts tourists

18
Q

What are the disadvantages of beach replenishment.

A

Material transported easily.

Replacement of sediment is needed regularly.

19
Q

What is Slope stabilisation?

A

Slope stabilisation is a technique where drains are installed at the top of the cliff preventing rocks becoming saturated.

20
Q

What are the benefits of slope stabilisation?

A

Prevents mass movement

Keeps cliff in place

Safer for people on beach

21
Q

What is the disadvantages of slope stabilisation?

A

Difficult to install

Costly

22
Q

How are destructive waves formed?

A

Formed by strong winds that have blown over long fetches.

23
Q

How are constructive waves formed and what do they do?

A

Associated with light winds and short fetches.

Less energy and smaller than destructive waves encouraging Deposition.

24
Q

What is a discordant coast

A

A coast where bands of hard rock and soft rock lie at right angle to the coastline forming headlands and bays

25
Q

What is a concordance coast

A

The type of coast where rock types run parallel to the coast line

26
Q

What is attrition?

A

Occurs when pieces of rock are moved by waves and knock into each other.

27
Q

What is Abrasion?

A

When waves pick up sand and pebbles and throw and scrape them against the rock surface.

28
Q

What is Hydraulic action?

A

When large waves break against a cliff compressing air into cracks

29
Q

What is solution?

A

Occurs when sea water dissolves minerals causing disintegration of rock.

30
Q

How is a wave cut platform formed?

A

Hydraulic action and abrasion, the waves undercut the cliff

Creating a wave cut notch, as it gets deeper the cliff ONTOP eventually collapses.

Repeating of this eventually caused retreat of the land.

A gently sloping rocky area is left at the bottom called a wave cut platform