COASTS Flashcards
Fetch
The distance the wave had travelled
Swash
When wave moves up to sand
Uprush
When wave hits sand
Backwash
When wave enters back into the sea.
3 things a wave depends on
1) Stronger the wind is
2) Longer the wind blows
3) Longer fetch
Difference in constructive & destructive waves
Constructive waves:
- Weak Backwash
- Low waves
- Strong swash
- 6-8 minute
Destructive waves
- Strong Backwash
- Tall, steep waves
- Weak swash
- 15 minute
Longshore drift?
Movement of material along a coast by waves
‘keeps the sea out’
(WHAT? AND HOW?)
Sea Wall - curved walls to deflect the waves away from land.
Rock Armour?
Big rocks soak up wave energy
Erodes rocks instead of cliff and sea wall.
Artificial reef?
Makes waves break earlier (Away from the beach)
Revetments?
Fence-like on coast
Water batters the revetments instead of eroding rock/cliff
Groynes?
Stops sand from being carries away + Sand absorbs wave energy
Beach Nourishment?
Adding more shingle and sand
2) Abrasion/Corrasion?
Rocks (on the side of the cliff) bump their heads against each other chipping it into pebbles
3) Attrition?
Pebbles bump into each other till all the materials are smooth and broken down
1) Hydraulic action?
Water forces it’s way into faults in coastline, therefore compresses the air within the gap leaving a crack.
4) Solution?
Acids in salt water dissolve rocks on the coast till all rock particles are a sand-like substance. (that get washed away at sea.)
Headlands?
Bays?
- Headlands are more resistant rocks
- Bays are softer rocks that erode easier
Wave-cut notch?
Wave-cut platform?
- Dent in cliff due to hydraulic action and abrasion
- When a flat rock collapses due to erosion leading a part of it to become a base for a sea cliff.
Spit and due to?
Narrow coastal landform due to longshore drift deposition.
How do waves form?
1) Water moves in a circular orbit
2) Friction slows down waves making it start to tip over
3) Collapses due to the sea bed growing higher the closer to the beach - rough source of friction
4) Backwash brings water back into the sea.