Coasts Flashcards
Waves are usually formed by ___ over the sea. There is ___ between the ___ wind and the surface, causing ___ which develop into waves, due to energy transferred by the wind.
wind blowing, friction, prevailing, ripples
Before nearing the bank, the wave moves in a ___ly ___motion. This collides with the coast, become more ___ as the water shallows.
vertical, circular, elliptical
The crest is …
… the highest point of a wave.
The trough is …
… the lowest point of a wave.
A breaker is …
… a wave that breaks into foam against a shoreline.
The wave height is …
… the displacement from the crest to the sea bed.
The wavelength is …
… the distance between two identical points on adjacent waves.
What are the three parameters that control wave energy?
- The fetch, the distance the wind has blown.
- The wind strength.
- The time the wind has blown for.
The swash is …
… the water that washes up on shore after incoming wave breakage.
The backwash is …
… the water that rolls back down a beach after a wave has broken.
Compare the effect on the beach of constructive and destructive waves.
Constructive have a greater swash than backwash, hence a net deposit. This produces a flatter, gentler beach. Destructive are the opposite, net eroding and producing a steeper, narrower beach.
Compare the size and spacing of constructive and destructive waves.
Constructive waves have a shorter height and a longer wavelength. They are well spaced and powerful when they reach the coast. Destructive waves are the opposite, often interfering.
Compare formation of constructive and destructive waves.
Constructive waves are formed by distant storms, hundreds of kilometres away. Destructive waves are formed by local storms.
Define SMP.
Shoreline Management Plans, councils’ guidelines outlining looking after: sustainable management, when/where/what of problems then sorting, monitoring/research/adaptation.
Define hard engineering.
Controlled disruption of natural processes by using man-made structures.
