coasts Flashcards

1
Q

whats a constructive wave?

A

-stronger swash
-long wavelength

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2
Q

whats a destructuve wave?

A

-stronger backwash
-short wavelength

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3
Q

size of wave depends on…

A

-fetch
-wind speed
-amount the wind blows

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4
Q

long shore drift…

A

-waves approach the beach at an angle
-as waves break, swash carries material up the beach at the same angle
-as swash dies away the backwash carries material down the beach at right angles
-the process repeats
-transporting material in a zig zap movement

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5
Q

what is a wave-cut notch?

A

where the wave has undercut the rock

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6
Q

process of cliff retreat and wave cut platform…

A

-abrasion, corrasion and hydraulic action further extend the notch back into the cliff
-undercut continues, cliff becomes unsupported and collapses
-backwash carries away eroded material leaving behind a wave-cut platform
-process repeats and cliff continues to retreat

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7
Q

how is a headland and bay formed?

A

-less resistant rock is eroded back (forming bay)
-more resistant rock sticks out as a headland

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8
Q

caves, arches and stacks…

A

-wave approaches shore, (speed reduces) changing wave angle
-wave refraction occurs causing erosion on all sides of headland
-cracks widen as abrasion begins to wear away forming cave
-cave becomes larger, eventually breaks through headland forming an arch.
-arch base widens and eventually roof collapses leaving behind stack
-stack is undercut at base by wave action until it collapses to form a stump.

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9
Q

characteristics of a spit and what is it?

A

-long and thin
-curved
-made of sand shingle
-extended stretch of sand extending out to sea from shore
-occur when change in coastline

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10
Q

formation of a spit…

A

-wave aproches beach at an angle
-as wave breaks the swash carries material up
-when wave dies down, backwash carries material down
-(sediment transported by longshore drift)
-sheltered area allows for deposition of sediment
-due to inc friction more deposition occurs
-spit slowly build up where there is headland

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11
Q

sand dune formation…

A

-wind-blown sand is deposited against an obstruction pebble as more particles are caught
-veg grows on it

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12
Q

coral reef requrements?

A

-warm water
-salty water
-light for photosynthesis
-clear water
-water circulation

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13
Q

mangrove requirements?

A

-shallow water
-high level of rainfall
-gentle waves
-warm temp
-salty water

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14
Q

mangrove characteristics…

A

-snorkel like roots
-filtration system keeps sald out
-ideal temp of 27
-need high humidity levels
-trees that live on coastline

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15
Q

coast opportunities…

A

-swimming/leisure
-industry
-fishing
-ports and harbour
-tourism
-agriculture

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16
Q

hazards of coasts…

A

-storms
-floods
-tsunamis
-storm surges
-high river discharge

17
Q

whys coastal erosion more rapid one some coasts thatn others?

A

-rock type
-wave power
-fetch distance
-wind strength
-hard/soft rock

18
Q

why do bays and headlands form along the coastline?

A

-differential erosion occurs
-headlands harder
-soft rock erodes quicker
-bays softer
-hydraulic action

19
Q

coastal management…

A

-groynes (traps beach material)
-gabions (wire cages to absorb wave energy)
-sea wall (concrete wall to reflect wave power)
-rock armour (protects from wave attack)