Coasts Flashcards
What are the main inputs and outputs within coastal systems?
Marine (waves, tides, currents)
Energy (kinetic, thermal, potential)
Geological
Atmospheric
People
What are the four types of erosion?
Hydraulic action
Corrosion
Attrition
Abrasion
What are the four main types of transportation?
Solution
Suspension
Saltation
Traction
What happens during the process of longshore drift?
Swash carries sediment up the beach, parallel to the prevailing wind.
Backwash carries it back down at right angles to the shoreline.
What is a negative feedback loop?
When a change to a system is nullified, taking it back towards equilibrium.
What is a positive feedback loop?
When a change to a system is amplified, taking it away from equilibrium.
What is an example of a negative feedback loop?
Trampling of sand dunes and damage to marram grass can lead to aeolian erosion causing blowouts.
If left alone surrounding marram grass can release seed, recolonise and lower wind speeds, building the dune back up.
What is an example of a positive feedback loop?
Vertical growth of marram grass lowering windspeeds and reducing saltation. This leads to further deposition allowing it to grow taller and encourage further lowering of windspeed, accreting the dune.
What are the main sources of sediment?
Rivers 90%
Onshore sources 5%
Erosion
Offshore sources 5%
Crushed shells of marine organisms
Waves, tides, currents
What are the main sources of energy?
Winds
Waves
Currents
Tides
What are the features of constructive waves?
Low wave height
Long wavelength
Low frequency (6-8/min)
Swash > backwash
Depositional
What are the features of destructive waves?
High wave height
Steep form
High frequency (10-14/min)
Backwash > swash
Erosional
How do waves form?
Wind blowing across the surface of water (frictional drag).
Circular orbital motion of water particles.
Seabed gets shallower orbits become more elliptical.
Wave height increases, wavelength and velocity decrease.
Water backs up behind the wave until it breaks and surges up the beach.
How do tides form?
Gravitational pull of the sun or moon changes the water levels of the seas and oceans.
What is a spring tide?
The Sun and moon align.
Their gravitational forces pull the ocean to them causing high tides.
Lowest possible low tides on opposite side of earth.
Largest possible tidal range.
What is a neap tide?
Sun and moon perpendicular to each other.
Gravitational forces act against each other.
Overall pull minimised at low tide.
Smallest possible tidal range.
What are the characteristics of low energy coasts?
Low input
Small, gentle waves
Short fetches, gentle winds
Sloping offshore zones
More deposition than erosion
What are the characteristics of high energy coasts?
High input
Large, powerful waves
Long fetches, strong winds
Steeply shelving offshore zones
More erosion than deposition
What is a sediment budget?
A coastal management tool used to analyse and describe the different sediment inputs (sources) and outputs (sinks) on the coasts.
What are sediment cells / littoral cells?
Lengths of coastline that are pretty much entirely self-contained for the movement of sediment. Each cell is a closed system.
What are the four types of sub-aerial weathering?
Salt weathering / salt crystallisation
Freeze-thaw
Wetting and drying / pressure release
Chemical weathering
How does the process of salt weathering take place?
Saline water enters pores/cracks in rocks at high tide.
Tide goes out, rocks dry, water evaporates.
Salt crystals form, expand, exert pressure.
Pieces of rock fall off.
How does the process of freeze-thaw take place?
Temperatures fluctuate between above and below freezing.
Water enters crevices and joints in rocks.
Freezes and expands below 0.
Melts above 0.
Repetition weakens the rock and it falls off.
How does the process of wetting and drying take place?
Some rocks containing clay when wet expand.
Pressure caused by this breaks fragments of rock off.