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Geography > Coasts > Flashcards

Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

What is the wave length of a wave?

A

The distance between the crest os one wave and the crest of the next.

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2
Q

What is the waves height?

A

The distance between the trough and the crest of the same wave.

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3
Q

What is the crest of a wave?

A

The peak/ the top.

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4
Q

What is the trough of a wave?

A

The bottom.

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5
Q

What three factors create waves?

A

— strength of winds.
— Barrier? (Fetch).
— time that the wind blows for.

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6
Q

What is the fetch?

A

Maximum length of open water over which the wind can blow unobstructed.
(Angle of exposure)

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7
Q

What are the 5 cycles of a tide?

A
  1. The sea level rises.
  2. High tide is reached.
  3. The sea level falls.
  4. Low tide is reached.
  5. Back to number one.
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8
Q

Name 3 features of a constructive wave.

A

— wave crests far apart
— gently sloping wave front
— light backwash
—strong Swash
— breaking wave spills forward.

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9
Q

What kind of beaches do constructive waves make?

A

Gentle sloping beaches

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10
Q

Name 3 features of a destructive wave.

A

— wave crests close together
— steep wave front
— breaking wave plunges downwards.
— strong backswash (pulls sand and pebbles out to sea.)

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11
Q

What is the 1st step of the formation and breaking of waves cycle?

A
  1. Wind blows over the ocean which creates a circular orbit under the surface (deep water)- not much friction.
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12
Q

What is the second step of the formation and breaking of waves cycle?

A
  1. As the waves reach shallow water there is friction with the bottom of the sea bed.
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13
Q

What is the4th step of the formation and breaking of waves cycle?

A

3.This friction slows down the bottom of the wave and the wave starts to topple over and the top part of the wave overtakes the bottom part of the wave so it breaks.

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14
Q

What is the 3rd step of the formation and breaking of waves cycle?

A
  1. The friction slows down the bottom of the wave, turning its orbit elliptical ( oval).
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15
Q

What is the 5th step of the formation and breaking of waves cycle?

A

After the wave has broken, the water runs up the beach, this is called the Swash, then the water runs back down the beach, this is called the backwash.

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16
Q

What is solution?
(Erosion)

A

It is when the sea water dissolves certain types of rock. In the uk, chalk and limestone cliffs are prone to this type of erosion.

17
Q

What is hydraulic action?

A

Hydraulic action is where the sheer power of the waves smashing against the cliffs traps air in the cracks in the rock and causes the rock to beak apart.

18
Q

What is abrasion?

A

This is when pebbles grind along a rock platform, much like sandpaper. Over time the rock becomes smooth.

19
Q

What is attrition?

A

This is when rocks that the sea is carrying knock against each other. They break apart and become smaller and more rounded.

20
Q

What tide are people more likely to be stranded at?

A

High tide

21
Q

How may high tides are there each day?

A

2

22
Q

How many low tides are there each day?

A

2

23
Q

What are the 2 types of waves?

A

Constructive and destructive.

24
Q

What is the 1st step of longshore drift?

A

South westerlies prevailing winds create waves on the sea.

25
Q

What is the second step of longshore drift?

A

Those waves then Swash the beach bringing sand and pebbles up and out of the sea.

26
Q

What is the third step of longshore drift?

A

Backwash happens as the sea drags them back down at an angle.

27
Q

What is the fourth step of long shore drift?

A

This keeps happening until the rocks are deposited somewhere that could be miles away.
The rocks will have undergone great physical changes with the force of the sea.

28
Q

What are the 4 coastal transportations?

A

Solution
Suspension
Saltation
Traction

Geography (3 decks)

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