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Geography P1 > Coasts > Flashcards

Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

Swash

A

The movement of a wave up a beach

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2
Q

Backwash

A

The movement of a wave down a beach to the sea.

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3
Q

Concordant coastline

A

-same type of rock all along the coastline

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4
Q

Discordant coastline

A

-hard soft rock arranged in layers at 90 degree angles to the coast

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5
Q

Fetch

A

-the distance the wave has travelled

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6
Q

What is a spit?

A

-a ridge of sand connected to the coast at one end where the coast changes direction due to longshore drift

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7
Q

What determines the size of a wave?

A

Fetch
Wind strength
Wind duration

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8
Q

Destructive

A
  • formed from strong winds
  • waves have long fetch
  • tall and steep
  • closely spaced (11-15 wave breaks every minute)
  • stronger backwash than swash
  • very powerful so causes coastal erosion- beach removal
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9
Q

Constructive wave

A
  • formed from weak/light wind
  • shorter fetch
  • low in height
  • widely spaced (6-9 wave breaks per minute)
  • stronger swash than backwash
  • beach building due to deposition
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10
Q

Formation of headlands and bays

A
  • headlands and bays form on discordant coastlines
  • hard rock e.g. granite erodes more slowly forming a headland e.g. Peveril Point
  • soft rock such as sandstone erodes more quickly, forming a bay e.g. swanage bay
  • abrasion and hydraulic action most significant here
  • beach forms in the bay due to wave refraction
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11
Q

Formations of a wave-cut platform

A
  • the sea attacks the headland at high tide
  • hydraulic action and abrasion cause a wave-cut notch to form at the base of the cliff/headland
  • overtime, the wave0cut notch grows in size becoming bigger and bigger
  • the overhang above the notch collapses as it lacks support
  • the process repeats causing the cliff to retreat inland
  • this causes the wave cut platform to grow in site
  • the wave cut platform is visible at low tide
  • rock pools can form at wave-cut platforms
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12
Q

Formation of a stack

A
  • the crack forms along weaknesses in the rock due to erosion
  • the crack widens due to hydraulic action and abrasion forming a cave
  • the cave grows in size and is eroded through the headland forming an arch
  • the roof of the arch collapses due to lack of support forming a stack
  • the stack erodes down - weathering also breaks down the stack- forming a stumo
  • real life examples are Old Harry, Dorset
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13
Q

Longshore drift

A
  • the swash moves the pebble up the beach in a north-east direction due to the direction of the prevailing wind whihc comes from the south-west
  • the backwash takes the pebble straight down the beach in a southerly direction 90 degree angles to the coast due to the force of gravity
  • the whole process repeats causing the pebble to move from west to east in a zig zag formation.
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14
Q

Formation of a spit

A
  • longshore drift moves material along the coast from west to east
  • when the coastline changes direction, longshore drift continues, forming a spit
  • a hook forms on the end of the spit if direction of the prevailing wind changes
  • the water behind the spit is sheltered so deposition occurs forming a salt marsh
  • the fast river flow stops the spit extending across the river mouth
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15
Q

Where does a spit form?

A

-where the coastline changes direction

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16
Q

Beaches

A
  • forms from eroded material
  • formed from constructive waves
  • forms in bays due to wave refraction
17
Q

Formation of bars

A
  • longshore drift moves material along the coast from the west to east in a zigzag formation
  • the swash moves up the beach at an angle due to the direction of the prevailing wind
  • the backwash moves straight down the beach due to the force of gravity
  • longshore drift continues forming a ridge of sand and shingle (mix of sand and stones) across the bay
  • a lagoon forms behind the bar
18
Q

What is beach nourishment?

A
  • sand is added to the beach to make it wider and larger

- soft engineering

19
Q

advantages of beach nourishment

A
  • creates a large beach which will ancourage tourism
  • the beach will absorb the wave’s energy, reducing the rate of erosion
  • cheaper, £2000/m
20
Q

disadvantanges of beach nourishment

A
  • needs constant maintenance thus can be expensive over time

- the work required can disturb beach users

21
Q

what is offshore reef

A
  • old tyres or ships are sunk in front of the coast

- soft engineering

22
Q

advantages of offshore reef

A
  • creates new marine habitats for animals and plants
  • the reef absorbs the wave’s energy reducing the rate of erosion
  • cheaper £5000/m
23
Q

disadvantages of offshore reef

A

-reef can disturb fishing

24
Q

What is a seawall?

A
  • where concrete is placed at the base of the cliff or at the top of a beach
  • hard engineering
25
Q

Advantages of seawalls

A
  • the wall rebounds the wave’s energy, reducing the rate of erosion
  • walkways and promenades are built on top of the seawalls attracting visitors
26
Q

disadvantages of seawalls

A
  • expensive - £5000-10,000/m
  • unattractive and unnatural
  • leads to the erosion of the beach in front of the sea wall
27
Q

what is a groyne

A
  • rock/wood structures are placed at 90 degree angles to the coast
  • hard engineering
28
Q

advantages of groynes

A
  • the groynes trap sediment making the beach larger, which attracts more tourists
  • the larger absorbs the wave’s energy reducing the rate of erosion
29
Q

disadvantages of groynes

A
  • increase the rate of erosion down the coast
  • unnatural
  • fairly expensive because you need to build a number of groynes £5000/m
30
Q

what are ripraps

A
  • large boulders are placed at the base of the cliff

- hard engineering

31
Q

advantages of rip rap

A
  • rocks absorb the wave’s energy reducing the rate of erosion
  • relatively quick to place rocks along the coast
32
Q

coastal erosion

A

The breaking down and removal of material along the coast.

33
Q

Coastal retreat?

A

-when coastal erosion causes the coastline to move further inland

34
Q

effects of coastal retreat and flooding

A
  • wildlife habitats destroyed
  • cliffs become dangerous for walkers
  • distruption to communication networks-roads and railway lines creating difficulties for commuters
  • loss of people’s homes
  • increased deposition further along the coast
  • loss of businesses (caravan parks, cafes etc)
  • decreasing value of porperties in difficulties in obtaining home insurance

Geography P1 (4 decks)

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